Do-it-yourself drainage of the site: detailed instructions. How to make a do-it-yourself drainage of a site from scrap materials Simple do-it-yourself drainage systems

Many have faced such an unpleasant situation when after a rainstorm it is impossible to go out into the courtyard of a private house or summer cottage. It is even worse when the entire crop is flooded with rain or melt water. And how to deal with such a scourge? Of course, for this, you can also dig ordinary ditches through which water will be diverted, but it will still be more acceptable not the easiest way - drainage in a summer cottage or the territory of a private house. But how to arrange it and how difficult it is to do such work with your own hands, now let's try to figure it out.

Read in the article:

Diy water drainage methods from home: some practical tips

The issue of drainage of rain or melt water from the site is very relevant for all owners of houses, summer cottages, and garages with a cellar or a viewing hole. That is why the drainage device is very important. And for sure, it is not worth explaining once again that without certain knowledge, such work is unlikely to be completed. But still, it is not so difficult to hire professionals for it, which means there is an opportunity to save money. Now we will figure out how to remove water from the site with our own hands and what methods exist for this. In addition, it makes sense to deal with the prices of both the material for drainage and the prices for the services of professionals.

By the type of device, such drainage can be divided into internal, external and reservoir. In this case, one of them can be used, as well as a combined drainage, in which two or three methods are used. First, let's analyze the general rules for arranging each of them:

1. Internal drainage - is used for cellars and basements and serves to drain water that has already been absorbed into the soil.
2. External or open drainage removes water from the site directly during rain, not allowing it to linger on the surface.
3. Reservoir allotment - is used almost always when building a house. In simple terms, it is a kind of "pillow" under the building that absorbs the accumulated water.

Drainage of a summer cottage is a rather laborious process, but sometimes you cannot do without it. This issue is especially relevant for areas located in lowlands, as well as with a high occurrence of groundwater.

Drainage - what is it? Precise definition and photo examples

To be precise, drainage is a system of drainage of rain and groundwater from a certain area in order to prevent flooding. Those. its device is necessary in most cases even at the construction stage. But still, finished buildings, around which drainage is not provided, can be protected. The main thing is to think over the entire system in detail, draw up a project and make some efforts to bring it to life.

In order to understand in general terms how the drainage system of a yard or building is arranged, it makes sense to consider several photo examples.

Of course, the whole algorithm of operation of the drainage system associated with the device cannot be understood by looking only at the photo. This means that there is a need to consider all the nuances of drainage both from the adjoining territory and from the cellar and other buildings. Well, if we return to the question of what drainage is for, then there are a lot of answers to it. But the main function of water drainage, naturally, will be to protect the foundation from destruction, and the cellars and yards from flooding.

Open drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to secure the cellar and foundation

Of course, when arranging drainage in suburban areas, you can get by with banal irrigation ditches. And yet, in our time there is a great variety of materials that will help make drainage more aesthetically pleasing and beautiful. And it is quite easy to completely hide the highways from the eyes, if the need arises. And since the drainage scheme as a whole depends on the purpose of the area being drained, it makes sense to deal with the nuances, to understand how the drainage system should be arranged on the site, and what features are available for drainage from buildings or cellars.

It's important to know! The blind area around buildings and structures, drainpipes and other similar devices are also part of the drainage, and therefore their role should not be underestimated. On the contrary, improperly organized drains from the roof of a building can significantly impair the removal of water from the local area, nullifying all the efforts of a home craftsman.

So, let's start with the most important, in terms of need, drainage - around residential buildings.

How to make drainage around the house - practical tips and tricks

The main task before making drainage around the house is to choose the right place for the well, into which the rainwater will drain. Moreover, it must be arranged in such a way that it does not have to be pumped out periodically. Also, do not forget about the sand traps in the gutters.

In general terms, the work is done as follows. A shallow trench is dug along the perimeter of the building, connected to the well. Moreover, it must have a slope that can be measured out using a building level. Further, the bottom of the dug trench is covered with sand and rammed. Gutters are laid inside, which can be either open or closed with a special mesh. It prevents large debris and foliage from entering the drain.

Important advice! How the drainage will function depends on the slope of the gutter and its correctness. Therefore, it is necessary to measure it very carefully.

The nuances of drainage at their summer cottage

Such diversion of water is done in order to protect the plantations from flooding. It is mainly used in places with swampy ground and where the occurrence of groundwater is quite high. The essence of such a drainage device is as follows. It is necessary to dig a trench along the section, about half a meter deep, into which you will then need to lay pipes with perforation. For them, a sand pillow is made on a special fabric. Thus, excess water, again, will fall into the well.

Another way to prevent groundwater from entering the site can also be the installation of drainage gutters around the perimeter. But the most convenient method will be the formation drainage device. In this case, gravel of various sizes is poured into the dug trenches, after which they are covered with sod. Today it is the cheapest of all drainage methods, and therefore the most common. It is worth noting that with all the availability of drainage systems for sites, few people start such work. And this is a big mistake. After all, the mounted water diversion does not cause any inconvenience, while it has a lot of positive qualities.

Video: how to drain the site

Drainage of soil around garages and other buildings

How to make drainage in the garage and what it is for are the most common questions that arise in front of a home craftsman when designing such systems. It must be understood that the removal of groundwater from the premises will not only preserve its foundation. Indeed, for many, the cellar is located in the garage, which means it is necessary to protect it from flooding. Of course, there is another way out, such as installing a sealed box (caisson), but over time it will rot. And in installation, this design is rather complicated.

But even in the absence of a cellar or a viewing hole, drainage in the garage will not hurt. After all, in winter, melted snow will drip from the car, which evaporates greatly to humidify the air. And if there is a drainage system, the humidity will remain normal.

Is the drainage device in the basements of houses an overkill or a necessity?

Some argue that if there is drainage on the site and around the house, then it is completely useless in the basement of the building. This is a fairly common mistake. Water can penetrate into it below the street drain. And it is not necessary to say what consequences this can lead - for sure everyone understands this well.

It is most convenient to carry out drainage during the construction phase, i.e. laying the foundation. But even if this was not foreseen, there is still a way out. Water can be drained even in rooms with concrete floors. We will dwell in more detail on the methods of performing such work a little later.

In more detail about how to make drainage - the need for the project

A responsible approach to such work should begin at the design stage, which is not surprising. After all, its functionality depends on the thoughtfulness and drawing up of a scheme for the future drainage of water. That is why there is a need to carefully draw up a project with exact dimensions, as well as subsequent strict adherence to it.

First you need to measure the site and in general terms think about the location of the highways. In this case, it is worth taking into account both the most flooded areas and the slope of the surfaces. The stormwater well must be located at the lowest point. Do not forget that at every connection (in the corners) there must be technical wells or cleanings. This is dictated by the need to settle sand and silt to prevent blockages of both the pipes themselves and perforations in them.

Then, before properly making the drainage on the site, it must be marked clearly according to the drawn up scheme.

Important advice! If you do not comply with the size of the project, there is a risk that with severe blockages and the impossibility of cleaning without dismantling, you will have to dig up half of the site in search of drainage lines. It is for this reason that it is worth saving the sketched diagram.

Do-it-yourself drainage well - how to do it right

To begin with, let's deal with the three main types of this drainage part. He can be:

1. Lookout - used for visual observation and prevention of blockages;
2. Cumulative - excess moisture from the site accumulates inside. Such a device requires periodic evacuation;
3. Absorbing - water collected from the territory goes into the ground or into a nearby reservoir.

The fact is that before making a drainage well, several factors must be taken into account, such as the slope of the soil, the depth of the groundwater, the possibility of draining into a body of water, etc. Already on the basis of these data, a conclusion is made about the appropriateness of one type or another.

Article

For the effective collection and removal of surplus groundwater and storm water in a garden plot, an engineering structure such as a drainage system is most applicable - a self-built drainage network. Such a system copes well with lowering groundwater levels.

It is quite simple to build a drainage system:

• from materials that are always at hand in the garden;
• from specially purchased materials.

Consider the installation technique for both system options.

Methods for the device of the drainage system

Economical options from available tools

To decide how to make a drainage system in your garden, you need to clearly understand all the stages of the upcoming work. The first, preparatory, stage follows:

• dig a trench 0.5 m wide around the entire perimeter of the house at a distance of 2-5 m from the foundation to a depth equal to the level of the foundation sole;
• determine the highest and lowest points of the site;
• calculate the slope of the drainage system, which should be 2-3% - 2-3 cm for each meter of the drainage gutter;
• determine the place of water drainage from the site. This could be a general drainage system or a nearby body of water.

At the next stage, the construction of drainage involves the selection of a drainage design option (a trench designed for water drainage) that is most suitable for a specific site.

The drainage technology for all options is the same. The main ones of any kind are:

1. Sand.
2. Small crushed stone.
3. Large crushed stone (more than 0.5 cm).
4. Turf.

Consider the structures shown in the figure:

1. The simplest option that does not require additional materials. Through such a porous drain, water is drained by gravity into the receiver.

Pro tip:Place reinforced concrete slabs (5) on top so that the drainage system does not condense during operation.

1. Reinforced concrete slabs (5) are laid in a triangle. Through this channel, water flows to the collection point.
2. The construction in the shape of the letter "P" is laid out from perforated, antiseptic-treated boards (6) or from large stones (7).
3. The boardwalk (6) channel is lined with large rubble on all sides.
4. Fashina (8) - a bundle of branches. It can be oak, alder, birch branches, or branches of coniferous trees. To form a fascina, thicker branches are wrapped around thinner branches and wrapped with wire.

Pro tip:Lay the branches with thin ends in the direction where the water is supposed to drain. Build this structure on the ground, next to the trench. The width of the finished single (not separate bundles) fascina should be at least 25 cm.

1. Trestles made of bars (9) at the bottom of the drain will perfectly provide a free flow of drained water.
2. The role of the water conduit is played by a perforated pipe made of asbestos cement (10).
3. The perforated ceramic pipe (11) is also a good drainage solution.

Such structures will provide high-quality groundwater disposal from the house.

Option using special materials

A more reliable way of arranging drainage on the site is to use special ones. Installing a drainage system involves performing several standard operations:

1. Start by preparing the pipe trench. The best option is trenches dug in the form of a "herringbone" throughout the entire section. Trench width - 20 cm; depth in clay soils - 60 cm, in sandy - up to 110 cm.
2. To collect storm water at a distance of 2 m from the blind area, a trench with special gratings is arranged around the perimeter of the house.
3. The slope of the entire drainage system towards the lowest part of the site is calculated (by 1 meter of the system - a decrease of 2-3 cm).
4. The place of wastewater discharge is determined: a well, a ditch, a natural or artificial reservoir.
5. At the bottom of the trench, rubble is poured and well compacted with a layer of up to 25 cm.
6. Special perforated pipes are wrapped in geotextiles, a material that filters water well, and laid on a crushed stone cushion. Diameter of pipes for drainage - 6.3 cm, for drainage - 11 cm.

Pro tip:The joints of the pipes should also be well wrapped with geotextiles. Such a system will last for many years.

1. For filling pipes, fine gravel or sand is used. A layer of sod is laid on top of the backfill.

Drainage installation technology

Phased drainage technology on the site:

1. Preparation of drains - special channels of the drainage system. Depth - 1 m, width - 0.5 m.
2. Compliance with a slope of 2-3% throughout the entire system towards a well, gutter or reservoir.
3. Filling the channels with crushed stone, gravel, sand and covering the top with sod.
4. The location in the gravel layer, if necessary, of drainage pipes or the selected material (fascines, bars, etc.).

On large plots without buildings, the tree method is most often used. The central canal collects all the water from the adjacent side trenches and removes the collected water outside the site boundary to the collection point.

They are used when using pipes or if there is no other way to drain wastewater.

Installing the drainage system on your own is not something very difficult. But in the case of draining a large area, where it is necessary to use a pumping station and build a rather complicated drainage system, one cannot do without engineering calculations and drafting a project carried out by specialists.

A low-lying area can create many problems for its owners. In waterlogged soil, the foundation of the house collapses faster, plant roots rot from lack of air. Fertile soil in a short time turns into clay unsuitable for agriculture, because the lighter one is washed out into water bodies. Similar problems are solved by a site drainage device.

The installation of such a reclamation system is not difficult, but all the work is quite laborious, so first you should make sure that the problem lies precisely in the high level of groundwater flow, and not in other errors of agricultural technology.

How to determine the level of groundwater

A drainage system device will be needed in the following cases:

1. The plot is located on a slope. Thawed or storm water will erode the soil, carrying with it a layer of humus. The problem is solved by digging transverse drainage ditches.
2. The site is located in a lowland. In this case, moisture accumulates directly on it. With prolonged rains or amicable melting of snow, the soil will swamp and sour, and buildings will collapse from mold. In this case, it is necessary to install drainage channels around the entire perimeter of the site and around the foundation.
3. There is no obvious elevation difference on the site, but in flood and rainy weather, water still stands on it. It has nowhere to drain, so moisture is slowly absorbed and at times appears on the surface in the form of long-lasting puddles.

The latter option is typical for lowland lowlands with an extensive network of large and small rivers. He is well known to the owners of land plots in the floodplains.

If there are no obvious signs listed above, but plantings and buildings still suffer from high humidity, you should pay attention to the condition of the lawn and trees. If the lawn periodically looses, and mature trees die for no apparent reason, the problem most likely lies in high-standing waters.

Dig a hole 0.5–0.7 m deep and after a while check to see if water is getting into it. If you saw the water, then the level of its occurrence is less than 1 meter, and drainage of the summer cottage will definitely be needed.

Drainage types

Drainage is a system of shallow ditches used to drain groundwater. A drainage system installed in accordance with all the rules can significantly reduce their level. After its installation, the problems of root decay in trees, the appearance of mold in the underground and water in the cellar disappear.

There are two types of drainage systems - surface and deep.

The first option is the easiest way to drain precipitation. It is a complex of communicating trenches dug along the perimeter of the land plot at a slope. With their help, you can relatively quickly, at minimal cost and effectively divert melt and rainwater into a special drainage basin, which is arranged in the lowest place of the site. Runoff from the catchment tank is discharged into the storm drain or used for irrigation. Small volumes of liquid evaporate quickly on their own.

Installation of a deep system is more difficult, but superior to a surface system in the following cases:

• groundwater rises above half a meter from the surface;
• the site is located on a slope;
• the soil is dominated by clay.

Deep drainage differs from surface drainage by the presence of drains - pipes with frequent holes through which water is collected, as well as sand traps and other technological elements.

Deep drainage of the site is completely hidden underground and does not spoil the landscape.

Installation of a deep type drainage system

It is not difficult to make a water drainage system from the site yourself, but you need to plan its installation before the stage of building the foundation and laying the garden. First, preparatory work is carried out. They prepare a project and note in it:

• elevation differences on the site;
• the location of the lowest point;
• drainage grooves;
• places for wells;
• pipe laying depth.

For effective drainage to work, the minimum slope should be at least one centimeter per linear meter of the pipe.

Upon completion of the preparatory work, all the necessary tools, materials should be prepared and their number should be calculated. The standard set includes:

• perforated pipes of a suitable size;
• drainage wells;
• drain connection accessories - various couplings and fittings;
• geotextile;
• sand and crushed stone.

On sale there are pipes for laying drainage on the site with your own hands. Suitable asbestos-cement, polyvinyl chloride, ceramic. Popular made of modern porous materials - plastoconcrete, expanded clay glass. Water seeps through the pores, and small solid particles do not pass, that is, they do not clog the system.

Also prepare tools in advance: bayonet and shovels, wheelbarrows for soil, for cutting pipes, building level.

Next, mark the location of all elements on the ground. Then, in the marked places, they dig trenches with a depth of at least 0.7 m and about half a meter wide. Once all the channels have been dug, make sure they have the correct slope throughout. The places where the wells will be located are deepened more.

When all the trenches are ready, the bottom of the grooves and wells is rammed, covered with a layer of sand and compacted again. Then geotextiles are laid in them in such a way as to wrap it around the pipe with a margin.

Crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile and pipes are laid so that the holes are at the bottom. The whole system is connected, the slope is checked again and finally covered with rubble. It must cover the pipes completely. Then the free edges of the fabric are wrapped inward. The result should be a kind of roll with a pipe in the center.

Layers of fabric, sand and gravel prevent siltation of the system, significantly extending its life.

Drainage (revision) wells are installed at the joints of the pipes. They are designed for condition monitoring and cleaning. They are mounted just below the pipe level. The upper part has a removable cover for easy maintenance.

After assembling pipes and wells into a single complex, a collector well is installed at the lowest part of the site. It is the main reservoir for waste water. Most often, collectors are made of reinforced concrete rings, but if desired, they purchase and install ready-made plastic ones. From the collector, it is necessary to provide for a drain into the storm sewer or reservoir.

How to hide the drainage underground and decorate the site at the same time

On this, the installation work for the device in the country with their own hands can be considered complete. Now the entire system must be filled up to hide it completely underground. Filled trenches are covered with turf. In the future, flowers or any garden crops with a shallow root system are planted in this place. The grooves filled with large marble chips look interesting. Such elements of landscape design will decorate the site and will not let you forget the location of the pipes in case of repair work.

The drainage system of waters is usually combined with gutters. To do this, a gutter is mounted that connects the drain with the nearest well, or a storm water inlet is installed.

A closed drainage device at a summer cottage is not the easiest, but the most effective way to lower the groundwater level. Some of the steps may seem overwhelming or overwhelming, but the result of a dry foundation and a healthy garden will delight you for years.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site - video

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "excess" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, leaching of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, you cannot walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

This article will cover:

• How to equip water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drainage of a wetland.

What kind of water prevents the developer and the country homeowner from living

A separate book can be written about the types of surface water and groundwater, as well as about drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of the occurrence of groundwater, and concentrate on practice. But without a minimum of theoretical knowledge, to undertake an independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers - to throw money down the drain.

The point is that even an improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years... Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of the drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large volume of earthworks with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, it is difficult and costly to simply dig up and move a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying. The site has already been inhabited, landscaping has been done, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire section.

Hence - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data (which will help to find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or swamping of a site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snow melting and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, if it is not taken away in time, surface water turns into underground water during infiltration (absorption) into the ground.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Output: surface runoff must be removed by storm (rain) sewerage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water out of the gutters outside the site + competent organization of the relief on the backyard territory. This will avoid stagnant zones in the area (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when installing the drainage yourself:

• Failure to comply with the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of the drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile winding on the "wrong" soil. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextiles is used on soils consisting of clean medium and coarse-grained sands.

• Use instead of granite cheaper limestone crushed stone, which is washed out over time with water.
• Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Do-it-yourself inexpensive storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for a storm sewer on a site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price bites. This forces the users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE participant

I need to make an inexpensive downpour, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain melt water that comes from a neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I thought about how to make a water drain. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then “extra” gratings would remain from them, and I don't need special aesthetics for a shower. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby obtaining a homemade tray.

Despite the budget of this idea, the need to cut the asbestos-cement pipes on their own did not attract the user. The second option is the ability to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a layer of concrete about 100 mm.

Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Clinging to the idea of \u200b\u200ban inexpensive downpour, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes yourself, Denis1235i found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will be immediately cut into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for stacking trays.

The result is the following "pie":

• Ground base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Asbestos-cement pipe tray.

When arranging such a shower, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget downpour at the dacha. It took: 2 days for digging a trench, two more days for concreting and installation of the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track “wintered” perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage of the portal user with the nickname yury_by.

yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I wondered how to arrange a storm sewer to drain rainwater from the house. I would like to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than the "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But since the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_byi was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter when water gets between two layers.

Eventually yury_by decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewerage. Although he had fears that pipes that were not as rigid as the “red” ones would break in the ground, practice showed that nothing happened to them.

yury_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but in the place where I buried it, there are no significant loads. Only the lawn is laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the downpour works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive rainstorm based on "gray" sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Align the base to the level.

Installing a concrete ring.

The next step is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

We paint the hatch cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of the drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining the slope of the route at 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We pour the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed with a brick or a board.

We put the lid on, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of a budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the "right" sites. In SNT or in new grooves, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build on such land a normal house for permanent residence, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the plot or to drain and put the plot in order.

In order not to engage in various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE participant

The peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To drain the top water, it must be thrown off the site. I did not spend money on the purchase of special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the ground does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate "unnecessary" in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "tire" pipeline and then is discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “difficult” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT with a total area of \u200b\u200b8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket holding it by the handle. In spring, the water at the dacha lasts a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries up, it is only in the summer in the very heat. Nobody wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. So I decided that it was useless to fight the neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnation of water after melting snow do not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system necessary

Drainage is a technology for collecting and draining ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, swelling and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation of moisture.

Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how much your site needs drainage, a visual inspection will be required. Pay attention to whether the area undergoes flooding after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

The drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If, after 24–36 hours, water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is a direct evidence of soil oversaturation with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high occurrence of groundwater;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• a large amount of precipitation falls at the site of the site.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of drainage systems

There are a great variety of land drainage systems. Moreover, in different sources, their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and suburban areas, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining the water generated as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven melting of snow.

Grates protect open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed over the area of \u200b\u200bthe site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and a courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

1. Spot - in some sources it is referred to as local drainage. It is used to collect and drain water from a specific place on the site. The main area of \u200b\u200bapplication is drainage of areas under gutters, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe location of containers and taps for irrigation. It is often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire site. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient system performance. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid in compliance with the slope in the direction of the water flow, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of the structure, the pipes must be laid below the depth of its occurrence. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site with a certain step. The distance between the drains depends on their depth and the texture of the soil.

For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil, under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book "Drainage of Lands for Gardens" by A.M.Dumblyauskas.

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench to give a slope. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 lm of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 m is observed.

When installing a long drainage system, a minimum slope should be observed along the entire length of the drainage line. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope norms. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of siltation and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a steep slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest ways with instructions

In order to independently carry out the drainage of the land plot through the drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place for performing work.

Surface drainage of the suburban area

Open surface drainage is a versatile solution for draining small summer cottages. For example, for typical plots with an area of \u200b\u200b6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a herringbone-shaped drainage line. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at a summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, you will need to prepare gravel of fraction 20-40, geotextile, edged bar or board 2-3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage at the summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage line. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will worsen, etc. But this approach is more time consuming and requires the ability to work with a concrete mixture.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is the standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. The deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not suffer.

An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

1. According to the project plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of drainage pipes and determine the point of water discharge, that is, the place from where the collected water will be discharged into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the level of soil freezing. For the Northwest region, this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is being dug along the perimeter and area of \u200b\u200bthe site up to 1 m deep. The trench width is at least 30 cm. All horizontal trench sections are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of the surface. To check the quality of the runoff, trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope increases towards the drainage well.

   A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, you can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer

4. Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The layer thickness is 10 cm. Geotextile is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the trench walls. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50-60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled with respect to the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. Modular inspection chambers are installed at the drain turn points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume of waste water. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well branch pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. For this, a large volume of water is discharged along the drains. If the water drains quickly and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to look for and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drain pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain the site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water on the site are not always associated with a high level of groundwater. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold are formed on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one of the ways to drain the site without drainage

If, due to some circumstances, the device of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods for draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550-600 rubles. 10-12 m 3 of soil is enough for a plot of 6 acres.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

Arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the easiest way to drain a summer cottage. Despite its general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with the large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Trenching works around the perimeter and area of \u200b\u200bthe site include the following:

If desired, the second layer of rubble can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the sod layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often water stagnation is not at all associated with blockage. An insufficient slope does not ensure a constant and even discharge of the accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

Use a steel cable or hose with a strong water pressure to clear small blockages

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel wire rope to clean the drain. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other end there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the blockage point.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During cleaning, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself drainage of the site

Over-saturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are a big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruiting crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if fresh water and moisture are enough, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.