How to finish the steam room. Interior decoration of the bath: the required minimum of work before operating the steam room. For work you will need

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Sauna decoration: we choose the best materials for the steam room, washing and changing rooms

Steam room

Many years ago, having just moved to the village and built our first bathhouse, we were also very arrogant. And they lined the steam room with pine boards. Aroma! Beauty! Joy knew no bounds exactly until the moment when red-hot resin drops began to drip on the head, and ugly streaks appeared on the walls.

I had to tighten up the theory, and not only be proud of my ability to work with my hands. The head in this business is also not superfluous.

Materials for walls and ceilings

It will not be news to anyone that no synthetic materials for covering the steam room are categorically used... Many of them perfectly tolerate heat and moisture, but when heated, they emit harmful substances or become very hot themselves.

But not all natural finishing materials are suitable for this purpose. The most suitable is a tree in the form of a polished edged board, lining, blockhouse or imitation of a bar. However, there are limitations!

Are all rocks able to withstand temperature changes, resist fungus, and not rot due to constant contact with humid air? Not everyone. And many of those that are capable have certain disadvantages: they are expensive, they get very hot or "cry" with resin.

Brief characteristics of different types of wood, which are most often used for finishing baths and saunas, will help you make the right choice:

1. Linden. It changes very little under the influence of steam and temperature, maintaining a beautiful creamy shade. Fills the steam room with a delicate pleasant aroma. But it gets very hot, so the linden shelf should be doused with cold water or a sheet should be laid before planting. It is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate the walls with just linden clapboard without heat-insulating material due to its high thermal conductivity. Cost of 1 sq.m. 600-800 rubles.

1. Black alder. By operational characteristics ideal material: almost does not change the appearance and properties, on the contrary - the aroma and color of wood becomes more intense over time. Besides does not heat up, allowing you not to be afraid of burns. But it does not exude especially useful phytoncides and is more expensive than linden - 750-1200 rubles.

1. Aspen. Finishing the inside of the bath with aspen is not the best solution in terms of aesthetics, since it turns gray under the influence of moisture... But in terms of thermal conductivity, it is similar to alder - it does not heat up and can by itself become a good additional heat insulator for walls and ceilings. In addition, it allows you to save money, since it costs 400-500 rubles per sq.m.

1. Larch. If you need high quality, beautiful and, as they say, for centuries, then larch is an excellent choice. Including at the price (up to 1000 rubles per square meter), if we compare it with the cost of valuable wood species with similar properties. She possesses the highest resistance to moisture, which only increases over time... But finishing the steam room in the bath with larch is a difficult task, since this dense wood is difficult to process.

1. Ash. This wood already belongs to valuable grades and costs a square meter of such a lining in the range of 1500-2000 rubles. As for the use for finishing the steam room, it is perfect for this purpose: it has a beautiful texture, does not darken, is not afraid of high humidity and temperature, and besides has healing propertiesespecially useful for people with respiratory diseases.

1. Oak. This is the densest and most beautiful of our local wood species. In all respects, it is suitable for facing a steam room, it looks solid and reliable, but it also costs decently: 2300-2800 rubles. This finish is already considered elite.

1. Abashi. For those who do not count on high costs, this and the next paragraph can be skipped, since it will be very expensive to decorate even a small room with African abasha oak. 3000-3300 rubles per sq.m. This exotic wood surpasses all others in terms of resistance to moisture and has an unusual richness. But it is unlikely that all this justifies its price, since it does not bring any benefit to the body and, moreover, heats up a lot.

1. Canadian cedar. The most expensive material from the above, used only in elite baths. Delivers a pleasant aroma and healthy essential oils. Very beautiful, easy to handle. Depending on the thickness of the lining, it can cost from 4000 to 8000 rubles per square meter.

The range of prices in these examples is explained not only by the different thickness of the boards, but also by their length. The short ones are cheaper. In general, all these are products of grade A or Extra, so you can find it cheaper.

Now about the very popular and inexpensive, but completely unsuitable for use in hot and humid environments.

1. Pine and spruce. The most inexpensive lining, costing 200-240 rubles per square meter, is made from these conifers. And it is perfect for wall cladding in the recreation room, making furniture for it. The exterior decoration with a pine blockhouse is also quite beautiful and durable, if the walls are built of bricks or blocks.
   But pine is not allowed in the steam room. The reasons I have already described above are the "tearfulness" of the tree under the influence of high temperatures. Moreover, due to moisture, it becomes loose. And since it is impossible to use protective impregnations here, it will not last long.

1. Birch. It is completely unsuitable for wet rooms - steam rooms and especially a shower in a bath. Very afraid of moisture: it quickly loses its appearance, begins to rot and mold... But in dry and well-ventilated rooms, it will not yield to larch or oak in terms of strength and durability. It can be considered as a finishing material for a restroom. Especially if it is spacious and you are looking for something not very expensive. 400-440 rubles per square is quite tolerable.

Honestly, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not so important what you clad on the walls and ceiling: very few people will understand at a glance how much it cost you. It is much more important how to decorate the bath. Well-sanded, well-fitted planks that are pleasant to touch are half the battle.

Judge for yourself whether the traditional for our region and exotic finish is very different in business:

If your imagination and patience are enough for decorative trims in the form of backs, headrests and beautiful grilles - even better. All this can be done from expensive varieties.

All these wall cladding tricks are unnecessary if they are built from thick logs of suitable species. It is enough to dig in the seams well and grind the frame. But finishing a block or brick bath is not only decorating unsightly surfaces, but also the possibility of warming them and reducing heat loss. But that's another topic.

It is also necessary to consider such a question as the fire-prevention finishing of a bath from a bar or log.

I will not repeat myself in the following sections on the suitability of a particular type of wood for finishing other premises. Their characteristics speak for themselves; it will not be difficult to make a choice.

Floor

The floor in the steam room should not be slippery or overheated. The most inexpensive solution is a cement screed with wooden ladders on top. Slightly more expensive - tiles or porcelain stoneware with the same ladders.

Ladders are grids made of thick boards or bars that can always be taken out and dried or lifted and washed from all sides. Therefore, there are no special requirements for the type of wood, you can even use pine - on the floor it will not warm up enough to release resin.

Solid wood flooring is another matter. Here you will have to choose rocks resistant to moisture - larch, oak, alder.

There is another option - a heat-treated board. It undergoes special processing with hot (180-200 degrees) steam in the absence of oxygen, while acquiring very high resistance to moisture, strength and dark shade.

The price depends on the type of wood. For example, a square meter of a 40 mm thick floorboard made of pine will cost about 1250 rubles, and from alder already 2700.

Washing room

The washing room can be different. If water is supplied to the bath from a centralized network or a well with a pump, and there is a water heater, it is enough to install a shower cabin or simply equip a shower corner.

This is impossible without running water, so benches and watering cans are needed. Quite often you can find both, complemented by a large font or even a pool. And also washing rooms, combined with a steam room.

In each case, the interior decoration of the wooden bath will be different:

• For the common room, all those materials are used that are described in the previous chapter. It is a wood that can withstand high heat, for walls and ceilings and tiled or concrete floors with ladders.
• In a washroom, separated from the steam room and without a shower, for wall decoration any wood can be used except birch... Including coniferous. The temperature is not so high here, so the resin is unlikely to flow. But the air will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

• Decorating a shower room in a wooden bath can also be done with clapboard, but in this case good supply and exhaust ventilation is neededto let the boards dry after finishing the procedures. They must be treated with a moisture-repellent agent and the coating must be renewed periodically.

• Wall cladding with tiles or stone, at least one and a half meters from the floor, will be much more durable. If the bearing walls are wooden, they are waterproofed, sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard, and tiles are already glued to it.

• A very convenient option is a shower room with a door or curtain. It can be arranged in a dead end or fence off the corner with a partition. And there will be no questions about how to decorate the walls in the sink: tiles. And the rest of the space, where there will be no heat, no high humidity, whatever.

• It's even easier - to put a ready-made shower stall, and then you don't have to bother with wall cladding, plastic panels will do. In this case, finishing materials are selected in the same way as for a bathroom in an apartment.

The ceiling can be plastered here and covered with moisture-resistant paint that is resistant to washing. But it will be necessary to renew the coverage with regular use of the bath at least once every two years.

Such types of finishes as wood and plastic lining, slatted or stretch ceiling are also quite acceptable. They are not afraid of moisture, spotlights can be built into them, and the space between the ceiling and the cladding can be filled with thermal insulation.

If the bathhouse is wooden, built from an ordinary log or bar, finishing can be started not earlier than in a year... Because it will settle as the wood shrinks, deforming the cladding.

If you don't want to wait, you can get confused with a floating frame for drywall and tiles. How to do this correctly is described in the article "Facing a wooden house with plasterboard". And not lined walls must be treated with an antifungal antiseptic impregnation on a natural basis.

Dressing room

The materials for decorating this room can be very different. But it's hard to come up with something better than a tree. However, it can be supplemented with other types of finishes: decorative plaster, artificial stone tiles, various wall finishes, etc.

It all depends on the size and purpose:

• If this is a small dressing room in a freestanding bath, intended only for undressing and dressing, it is better to limit yourself to moisture-resistant wood trim. Especially if the bathhouse is heated once a week, and the rest of the time is not heated.

• If this is a spacious rest room with a heating system from home, then your desires are not limited by anything. Although wallpaper and painting on the walls - if only you like it.

Examples for inspiration:

As for how to decorate the bath from the outside, then any facade materials can be used here. Most often, a beautiful log house is left without cladding, limited to caulking joints, grinding and processing with decorative and protective agents.

And buildings made of bricks, foam blocks and other building stone are finished in accordance with the house or imitate a log house using a wooden, plastic or metal blockhouse.

Conclusion

Now you know what materials to use so that the interior decoration of the bath from a bar will please for many years in a row, without requiring repair and alteration. It is not necessary to use expensive exotic materials for this, which have little health benefit. Our native linden in this respect wins a hundred points over the African oak, and it looks no worse.

If you have something to say or ask on a topic - you are welcome in the comments. Let's discuss.

This is a creative and interesting business. The interior arrangement of premises, as a rule, can take up to half of the construction budget, which is not surprising. A wonderful recreation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work with your own hands and choosing budget finishing options.

Work order

Baths are built different, in one or two floors, with billiard rooms and upper rest rooms, as additional equipment a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization are installed. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider a typical version of a bathhouse with three functional rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room or a relaxation room.

It is clear that all three rooms are finished differently. For example, pine cannot be used in the steam room, but in the dressing room you can, this will save money and fill the room with delicious pine aromas.

Important! The order of finishing activities in a wooden or other bath is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.

Algorithm for finishing work in the bath:

• arrangement of the floor;
• wall sheathing;
• installation of the canvas;
• installation of equipment, furniture.

The correct finishing, which includes the installation of insulation, vapor barrier and decoration of the premises, will create a paradise for the rest of the soul and body.

Floor arrangement

The process is essentially straightforward. In a wooden bath, logs from a bar of 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm are mounted, boards, edged or grooved, are laid on them. Of the materials, hardwood is preferred, but oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option is larch floors.

The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. This is especially true of the washing department, where there is excess water. In the steam room, the floor is raised from the general level by 150-200 mm to keep warm.

Boards must be treated with an antiseptic, a primer to prevent their swelling, the formation of fungal colonies.

Many people cover the floor with ceramic tiles in the steam room and sink, which is smart for a brick bath. In a wooden building, the best floor is a polished, carefully processed board. Processing with soil from Tikkuril, Snow and other firms will protect against deformation.

As for the floors in the rest room, it all depends on imagination and financial capabilities. You can use tiles of various types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates a reliable protection against moisture, does not allow the inner part of the panel - HDF board - to swell, does not deform, lasts from 20 years. You can use modern, recently appeared on the market of finishing materials, liquid linoleum and much more.

The floor in rooms where water can enter is made with a low slope and drain.

Bath wall decoration

The choice of materials for decorating the walls of the paired department is not great; it is unacceptable to use wood-shaving materials, linoleums and other chemical products.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made of tree species:

1. Cedar. Moisture resistant, capable of withstanding high temperatures and their drops, cedar is most preferable for the walls of the steam room, when heated, its wood gives off substances that are healing for the human body, pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are gentle to the touch, it is nice to lean your back against the cedar wall. The steam room, trimmed with cedar, should be heated strongly for the first time and hold the heat for 40-45 minutes so that the cedar cries out the resin.
2. Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but it is popular despite its high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus a pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
3. Linden. A healing tree, wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20-25 years, for a steam room a real find, essential linden oils heal bronchi, cure colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and slightly romanticizes the space of the steam room;
4. Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washing rooms and rest rooms. The walls, finished with larch, are not afraid of moisture, the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous sacs and the structure of the arrangement of fibers. The wood has a varied color palette, natural shine and beauty of the pattern. Larch-clad walls also require an initial heating to maximum temperatures of 40–45 minutes for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive, it is considered folk.
5. Aspen. It is difficult, alas, to find it on the construction market, it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. The wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.

The walls of the washing room can be faced with tiles, sheathed with clapboard of their coniferous species. For wall cladding with tiles, you can use moisture-resistant drywall, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.

The tile for the washing room is especially relevant in a brick building, it does not deteriorate under the influence of moisture, it is easy to maintain, it is used for a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more resistant. A matte rough surface is preferable so as not to slip, and the back side, smooth without porosity, will prevent the occurrence of fungus.

Whichever type of finish is used in the washroom, rubber rugs or wooden grates should be placed on the floor.

The walls in the break room should be trimmed depending on how well it is protected from steam and moisture. But for a log bath, you can't think of anything better than polished logs, however, it's a matter of taste. Even decorative plaster of any kind, including Venetian, is suitable for brick walls. And yet, the style features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, chatting intimately.

Decorative wall decoration is carried out after the installation of a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in a washing room and a rest room, foil-clad foam foam serves as both a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and a heater.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bath is obvious, especially if there is no forced ventilation in the premises. The walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.

Ceiling decoration

Ceiling decoration is similar to wall decoration. The same materials and technologies are used for the steam room. In the washing room, you can sew up the ceiling with linden, cedar, aspen clapboard. The best insulation for the ceiling of the steam room is ecowool. The material is not cheap, but justifies the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of \u200b\u200bthe steam room is small.

A layer of foil-clad material is definitely needed, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. Do not use materials on expanded polypropylene foam, polyurethane foam. The best insulation option is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.

Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is a guarantee of safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!

Room decoration

The aesthetics and comfort of the bath room space is formed not only by finishing materials. Good furniture is required:

• steam room shelves;
• font in the washing room;
• sofa, table for the rest room.

You also need beautiful doors, glass or solid, and many other pleasant things.

A special factor of comfort, ensuring the functionality of the space, is the right lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, use of lamps is a topic for another conversation. Here you just need to note the importance of competent lighting in all rooms of the bath, creating a mood, conducive to relaxation and pleasant pastime.

The primordial Russian bath has always been made of timber. Today for these purposes can be used: brick, cinder block, aerated concrete, foam block and other, sometimes cheaper, lightweight and durable building materials. And to maintain environmental friendliness and unity with nature, you can always carry out the appropriate finishing.

In this article we will look at how to sheathe a bath inside and outside to achieve the best effect.

Choosing a material

To the question of what is better to sheathe the bathhouse inside, the answer is one - with a tree... And if other materials can still be used for the rest room, then the steam room should be equipped only with wood clapboard. Let's take a look at the most suitable tree species for such purposes.

Linden

This material has been used for the manufacture of bath structures since ancient times. Even our ancestors, through trial and error, noticed its amazing water-repellent qualities for wood. Excessive amounts of moisture and hot steam have absolutely no effect on the color and shape of linden products.

Perfect for the manufacture of shelves, dishes, decoration. Especially recommended for the production of door frames. Such a door will never swell, and it will not lead to the side.

Aspen

What is the best way to sheathe a bathhouse from the inside with a limited budget?

Aspen wood is great, which, in fact, is a cheaper substitute for linden and has the following advantages:

• Ease of DIY processing. Since it has a soft and pliable structure.
• Acceptable water resistance.
• Relatively low price.
• Very high strength with proper adherence to the drying technology.

There is also a minus for this type of material:

• There is a possibility of internal decay. As a result, you will only become aware of the danger when the entire product is destroyed.

Cedar

The best option for sheathing the walls in the bath is cedar. Unfortunately, it has a rather high cost, but if you, nevertheless, can allocate a sufficient part of the budget, you will never regret it.

Advantages of the cedar tree:

• High waterproof properties.
• Strength, which, according to American scientists, in some respects is not inferior to steel.
• Very low thermal conductivity. Products made from such wood do not heat up and therefore are pleasant to the touch even in the midst of the steam room.
• Durability. Rotting and pests do not affect the cedar in any way, which also saves on expensive protective solutions.
• Lack of resinous discharge on the surface. That prevents the possibility of burns during contact with bare skin.
• The presence of beautiful shades and a pleasant smell.

Tip: When buying cedar products, consider authenticity verification.
Because due to the high cost of such a product, cases of counterfeiting have increased significantly.

Pine

Pine at high temperatures spreads abundant resinous secretions into the air, which prevents its use in the steam room. But such material is cheap enough to sheathe and enjoy the woody interior.

Tip: when buying boards of any tree species, pay attention to the presence of knots in their structure. Because they are the most common causes of burns due to uneven heating.

Sheathing

After you have chosen how you can sheathe the bath inside, it is recommended to study the process of installing the lining on the walls and ceiling. Of course, you can always hire specialists for these works, but if you wish, you can save money and do everything yourself.

Instructions:

1. We install wooden planks on the surface of the walls and ceiling.
   We use fixing elements depending on the wall material:
   
   • For a bath from a bar, steel screws or nails are suitable.
   • For brick and cinder block, you will need plastic dowels inserted into the holes made by a puncher.

1. between the slats. It must be remembered that a steam room requires a high temperature. Therefore, for the effective operation of the bath and saving on fuel, you should take care of high-quality thermal insulation.
   Suitable for this:
   
   • mineral wool;
   • felt;
   • styrofoam;
   • polyurethane foam.

1. We stretch the foil on top of the insulating material and fix it to the slats using a construction stapler. It will serve as both a waterproofing and a reflector of thermal radiation.

1. We mount the lining on the slats using clamps and starting from the far corner.

Conclusion

Whatever material you choose for building a bath, the interior decoration must be made of wood. Only then will the traditional atmosphere of the Russian steam room be observed, which provides such a pleasant wellness rest.

You can choose from a variety of wood species depending on your budget and preferences. It will not be difficult to make the cladding with your own hands, if you follow the auxiliary instructions.

The answer to the question, the better to sheathe the outside of the bath, is more extensive, since the outside of the sauna does not come into contact with a person. Here you can be guided by purely aesthetic considerations.

The video in this article offers additional information on the topic for viewing.

Choose the right interior decoration material and fully enjoy your bath!

The steam room is the most important place in the bath. To enjoy your stay in the steam room and to fully experience the benefits of its effects on the body, you need the right wall decoration.

The effect of visiting will increase even more if the decoration of the steam bath is made by hand.

Choice of materials

To the question "How to decorate the bath inside?" one can unambiguously answer that the most suitable material is - special panels for wall cladding, the main advantages of which are:

• good microcirculation, allowing the walls to breathe
• no condensation
• pleasing to the eye
• ease of installation
• acceptable cost

The best breeds deciduous (aspen, larch, linden, alder, ash) have long been considered initial for the manufacture of lining, since the walls of them allow the room to warm up quickly, and at the same time remain comfortable for humans in temperature.

This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore does not harm health.

Of the listed species, larch is the most preferred (and not only for wall cladding), but it is also the most expensive material.

Linden lining preferably to process firsta special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) to preserve its original - almost white - color.

Aspen lining, due to its hardness, is also a good cladding material, but experts prefer use it for ceiling and walls.

Durable resistant to decay is ash, with a beautiful core of which an attractive effect can be achieved.

Alder, with a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can become a worthy material for decoration ( especially inside a bath made of foam blocks).

Not advised to take as a starting material for lining, birch due to its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during harvesting.

If, nevertheless, for some reason you have to make lining from this breed, then it must be borne in mind that it has a loose structure and in the process of preparation for use will be prone to drying out.

A relatively new material that professionals advise to use for covering walls in a steam room is a wall paneling made of african oak abash (or Abashi).

This coating has a number of most valuable properties, thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:

• low level of thermal conductivity;
• lightness and at the same time strength;
• resistance to deformation, no cracks and chips when sawing and drilling;
• not susceptible to decay;
• the presence on the surface of a peculiar, beautiful pattern.

This material has only one drawback - it is rather high cost... But it is overlapped by the properties mentioned above.

From whatever source material the lining is made, it must be pre-well dried and processed so that it does not have any roughness.

What cannot be used in the steam room?

It is unacceptable to trim steam room with conifers (spruce, pine). The reasons for this are as follows:

• with strong heating of the walls, touching them can become unexpected and rather unpleasant;
• droplets of emitted resin can get on the skin and burn it.

Hardwoods such as oak and walnut are not recommended. This is due to their high heat capacity, which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.

In a steam room, the walls of which are lined with clapboard made of oak or walnut, usually it's difficult to breathe... In addition, accidentally touching them can burn your skin.

Do not cover the walls in the steam room with chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.

It's connected with harmful effects of chemicals on the human body at very high temperatures.

DIY finishing process

Highlights interior decoration in stages:

1. Lathing manufacturing;
2. Fastening of steam and heat insulation;
3. Installation of wooden panels.

Requirements for the installation of the crate

Hydro and thermal insulation of the steam room walls

For vapor barrier most often used aluminum foil, as well as foamed polymer materials (polypropylene). The advantage of polymeric materials is that they have both steam and heat insulation qualities.

These materials, laminated with foil, not only help maintain a high temperature in the steam room, but also resist the accumulation of moisture and the appearance of fungus.

Sequencing:

1. Attach to the wall from a bar (mineral wool is best suited for this purpose).
2. Fasten a layer of foil to the insulation.
3. Install the lathing (it is necessary to create an air gap between the lining and the foil layer).

Installation of lining

For a step-by-step guide on how to properly sheathe the walls and ceiling with clapboard, see the video instructions:

Features of dressing the dressing room

Find out more about the secrets of decorating a bath from the video below:

The article will be useful to those who plan to independently carry out the interior decoration of the bath rooms. Detailed step-by-step instructions with a photo will help to produce cladding and cladding with high quality and in compliance with construction technologies.

In a classic Russian bath, there are necessarily rooms such as:

• steam room;
• washing;
• vestibule (changing room).

If the space allows, modern buildings will equip a separate recreation room, billiard room, pool, veranda, barbecue area and even a full kitchen.

Despite the fashion trends, the basic requirements for the bath remain unchanged:

• a steam room requires persistent hot steam,
• in the washing room - non-slip floors and the possibility of convenient bathing procedures,
• in general, the premises have a comfortable microclimate and aesthetically pleasing atmosphere.

The functionality of the bathrooms depends largely on the correct finishing. Even if your structure is built of rounded logs, and the walls look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing from the inside, it is recommended to make the interior decoration of the bath, as this will significantly extend its service life.

Each room has a number of features that must be considered when choosing materials and cladding methods.

Steam room

When finishing the steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• sharp temperature drops, the upper limit of which can reach 120˚С;
• presence of hot steam emitted by a powerful and concentrated stream;
• high humidity.

A universal cladding option for a steam room is a cladding board, which must have the following properties:

• do not absorb moisture;
• have a low heat capacity, therefore, do not heat up from high temperatures and contribute to the rapid heating of the steam room;
• have a pleasant color and smell, while not emitting resin when heated;
• protect walls from rot and mold, help purify the air.

Of the whole variety of lining, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abasha wood are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a cladding material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well dried and hewn, without knots and chipping on the surface, it will reliably serve for many years.

The lining in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.

Before cladding The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, which is most often used in finishing. Often they use such insulation as basalt wool. It is more durable, as it is not subject to deterioration from the influence of high temperatures. However, cork agglomerate is considered the best insulation for baths. It is anti-allergenic, not subject to rotting, burning and the appearance of fungus.

The floor in the steam room is made warm, not slippery and pleasant to walk with bare feet.

Wall paneling prices

Video - Interior of the steam room

Washing room

In the washing department, they usually not only rinse the body, here you can relax after a hot steam room, have a relaxing massage, apply products for face, body or hair care. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.

The lining of the sink is done either with ceramic tiles or wood. Moreover, if in the steam room deciduous varieties of lining were used, then in the washing room preference is given to conifers - larch, spruce or pine. The resin they contain is moisture-repellent and protects materials from decay.

Particular attention is paid to the floor, it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to fill the base in the washing room with concrete, on which the tiles are laid out. Although a wooden floor is also possible.

To prevent slipping on a wet surface, it is recommended to make a flooring on the tiles in the form of removable wooden logs. They should be dried after completing the bath procedures.

Wooden flooring on a tiled floor - photo

Tambour, changing room, recreation room

Along with the washing room and the steam room, the rest of the bath rooms retain high air humidity. Here you can use both hardwood and softwood for decoration. The following materials are also used:

A combination of various types of finishes is common in such rooms, for example, wooden lining, tiles and natural stone.

Prices for porcelain stoneware tiles

porcelain stoneware tiles

Video - Shower and relaxation room in a thermo alder bath

Ceiling decoration in the bath

During operation, the ceiling is exposed to aggressive effects of hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the ceilings with steam and heat insulation to prevent damage to materials. For these purposes, aluminum foil or a building membrane is often used. They are equally effective at ensuring their tightness.

For vapor barrier, do not use foil with glued cotton wool. It is much thinner and less convenient for cladding work. Also, do not use foil with adhered expanded polypropylene. It is toxic when heated and therefore unacceptable for use in bathrooms.

It is important to carefully glue all joints with aluminum tape. If, in the process of attaching the material, you accidentally damaged it, immediately glue this place, then you can forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be broken.

A pipe hole must be laid out in the steam room. It is equipped with a thin stainless steel sheet box filled with expanded clay.

The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet that protects the wood from excessive heat.

Step-by-step instructions for installing lining on the ceiling

Step 1. Slats with a cross section of 2 * 4 cm are sewn onto the ceiling with a lathing pitch of 40-45 cm. At the points of attachment of the frame, it is necessary to provide for ventilation gaps of at least 10 mm.

Step 2... The slats are placed horizontally on the walls, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.

Step 3. From one of the walls, wood panels begin to be fixed. The groove of the first plank is directed outward and the next spike is hammered into it. And vice versa, there is no fundamental difference.

On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet, this will avoid damage to the material.

Step 4. The strips can be fixed with special clamps, they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the easiest and most convenient way is to use a construction stapler. It reliably fixes the lining and significantly reduces the installation time.

Step 5. On the sides, gaps are left from the walls in the amount of 2-2.5 cm. This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation of the finishing material. The gaps are subsequently hidden by the baseboard.

The first and final panels are nailed down with small studs. They are driven in at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood using a doboiner.

It is important to monitor the verticality of the planks, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. A simple building meter can be used instead. In this case, you measure the distance from the wall to the edge of the installed panels on one side and the other.

If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is neatly knocked out to the desired level. For this, a small piece of the same panel is used, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or a hammer).

The panels are trimmed in the following way: they fix a wooden plate, under which a sharpened chip is carefully hammered.

The walls in the steam room are trimmed with wood. In the rest of the premises, you can use tiles or stone.

Wall decoration with clapboard

The basic technique for installing wood panels on walls is no different from fixing them to the ceiling.

Step 1. We fill a thick bar horizontally along the entire perimeter - every 80-100 cm.

Step 2. We install mineral wool insulation. We cut the insulation to the required size with a sharp knife. We put it between the bars without tamping.

Step 3. We lay a vapor barrier, carefully glue all joints with aluminum tape.

Note! Carefully monitor the quality insulation in the corners.

Step 4. To provide a ventilation gap, we stuff the distance rail. Sheathing is always performed at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining strips. Thus, if you plan to arrange the panels vertically, the lathing is nailed horizontally.

First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. For even placement of the horizontal rails, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame rails, that is, at the floor and above the ceiling.

The next rail is packed after 40-50 cm, and further along the perimeter, with the same pitch, the remaining bars are attached. Always check the levelness of the installation with a level or plumb line.

Step 5. Doors and windows are enclosed in separate bars.

Step 6... We proceed to fastening the panels.

When cladding walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to fix the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure a quick drainage of moisture to the floor, without retaining it in the grooves of the panels.

If you decide to do a horizontal finish, then lay the boards with the spike upwards so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, the boards are fastened from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The lathing is nailed vertically.

Wooden panels are fastened with clamps, ordinary nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, the cap is completely sunk into the wood.

Be sure to leave 2-3 cm gaps when attaching the lining from the ceiling and floor for ventilation.

Often the lining has to be cut. For these purposes, use a saw with fine teeth or an electric jigsaw.

Before attaching the last rail, it is trimmed to the desired size and attached to the crate. On the first panel of the next wall, the ridge is cut off and installed end-to-end against the last rail of the first wall. Corner trimming requires special precision. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent corners of the panels must adjoin joint to joint, without gaps.

Vapor barrier prices

vapor barrier

Video - Decorating the bath with clapboard

Insulating the oven from the wall

Special attention should be paid to the insulation of the stove from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:

• stainless steel - attached directly to the wall behind the oven;
• minerite - heat-resistant boards made in Finland, consisting of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing fibers. Fastened by 2 sheets if the oven is located in the immediate vicinity of the wall. When the oven is more than 40 cm away, one sheet of minerite is sufficient .;
• heat-resistant kaolin clay tiles, for example, from the Russian company Terracott;
• profile iron - the most budgetary option for insulation;
• red solid brick - laid out between the wall and the stove to the base of the pipe. If desired, you can insulate the entire space to the ceiling.

Minerite prices

Wall cladding with tiles

Quite often the walls in the washing department or in the rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look to the room.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on the walls in a bath include the preparatory stage and cladding.

1) Preparation

If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust, they perform rough plaster, and the irregularities are leveled with a solution.

Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing felt or tar paper. It is nailed with a construction stapler, and a fine mesh-netting is sewn on top. Finish the preparatory work by applying a cement mortar that completely covers the metal mesh.

A perfectly flat wooden beam is nailed at the floor level, from which the finishing will begin. You can use a metal UD profile, which is fixed along the wall level.

To control vertical rows, use a conventional plumb line or laser level.

2) Laying tiles

To fix the tiles, you can use both a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5), and ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue designed for baths, it withstands large temperature drops and high humidity well.

Before starting work, the tile is immersed in a container with water and left until all the air is released from it. This will provide better adhesion to the mortar.

The cladding is started from the bottom, from the attached level.

It is important to lay out the first row ideally evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.

Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, while the glue should slightly protrude beyond its edges. To get the square perfectly straight, adjust it with a rubber mallet.

Pay attention to the gap between the rows of tiles, it should be the same along the entire length and height. For this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are installed in the corners of the tile in the gap.

After 2 days, the glue is completely dry and the level can be removed.

The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the cladding. It dries for 11-12 hours.

The final step is to clean the walls from grout residues and other contaminants. The tiles are thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

Tiles create a lot of room for creative expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the easiest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly one above the other.

The stripe pattern looks like this.

Stacking tiles

Diagonal cladding.

To create complex combinations of tiles of different colors, it is recommended that you first lay out the drawing on the floor, then outline the diagram on the wall, and only then proceed with the decoration.

Prices for heat resistant tile adhesive

heat resistant tile adhesive

Video - The principle of laying tiles

Wall cladding with terracotta flagstone

Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture resistant and durable, withstands high temperatures and allows you to create an original and beautiful wall design.

The technology of its laying is somewhat different from the cladding with ordinary thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta is a heavier material and requires special glue or mastic.

Below are step-by-step instructions for cladding with terracotta flagstone.

1. Apply mastic to the flagstone in a thick thick layer. More glue is required than with lighter tiles.
2. Press it against the wall and align.

   

3. We install the rest of the plates.
4. For even joints, we lay pieces of drywall between the plates.

   

5. When laying parallel rows, do not forget to check the horizon with a level.
6. After 10 hours, the joints can be filled. For this we use a special wide-joint heat-resistant grout. We dilute it with water and beat with a construction mixer until a homogeneous consistency. A properly prepared mass resembles thick sour cream.
7. We release the structure from plasterboard squares.
8. We fill the construction gun with grout. Cut off the nozzle of the gun at an angle of 60 degrees, the hole should be 8-10 mm.
9. Fill the gaps between the plates with grout. The squeezed out mass should not go beyond the level of the facing, and also fall on the front side of the plates.

   

   Be careful when handling the gun. If the mastic does get on the decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off immediately. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried composition without rubbing it.

10. The grout is distributed along the joint in any direction convenient for you. You can first walk along the horizontal joints, then along the vertical ones, or vice versa.
11. After 2 hours we proceed to decorative jointing. This will give a finished, finished look to the cladding.

    

12. For jointing, you can use a simple screwdriver with a working surface width of 7-8 mm or a rigid wire ring.
13. Finally, put on clean gloves and run your index finger along all the seams.

    

Bath floor decoration

If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.

Begin cladding from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, the floor does not create an ideal horizon, i.e. the tile is located at a slight incline towards the drain hole.

Before applying the mortar, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.

1. A cement mortar is poured onto the concrete.
2. Smooth with a spatula.
3. The surface is covered according to the size of the tile, in this case two rows are laid out simultaneously.
4. The notched side of the trowel creates a pattern on the mortar for better adhesion of the facing surface.
5. Lay out tiled rows. Using a rubber hammer and a level, set the desired slope and level. Please note that for the first row, the tiles do not need to be immersed in water first. The rest of the base is covered with a soaked cladding.

   

   Photo - laying tiles on the floor

   

6. In the corners, the tiles are cut to the required dimensions. For this, marks are made on the tile, along which they are drawn with a tile cutter.
7. The same plastic crosses are inserted into the gaps.

   

8. After a couple of days, the joints can be filled with grout.

   

It takes a lot of time and effort to independently finish a bath. It is required to solve a number of important problems - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during the bath procedures.

Tile on the floor - photo

Video - How to put tiles on a wooden floor in a bath