Primer for plaster for wallpaper. How to prime walls before wallpapering? Good examples and options

So that everything goes smoothly during the time, and soon after the repair, mold does not appear under the surface of the paper webs, priming is carried out. How the primer of the walls is carried out before wallpapering - videos, photos and expert advice, all this in our article.

Primer educational program

Why primed?

• Firstly, the soil allows you to create a solid foundation for.
• Secondly, it fastens the top layer of plaster, prevents its destruction and the appearance of cracks, which, in turn, affects the service life of the coating.
• Of course, do not forget about protection against pests and mold. Many formulations contain an antiseptic that prevents various pests from developing under the wallpaper layer.

When painting the wall, the soil allows you to save materials, reducing consumption by several times.

And yet, do I need to prime the walls before wallpapering? Of course, this procedure allows you to achieve a high-quality result.

Before applying the composition, thoroughly clean the surface of the walls or ceiling, remove a layer of old paint, repair cracks in the plaster.

Types of primer

Solaks acrylic composition

Priming with ordinary glue is being replaced by special formulations designed for treating various types of surfaces.

The need to use this or that type of composition is determined by the condition of the wall, as well as the conditions in the room (high temperature or high humidity).

Special primers are not used for facial finishes, but failure to use them can lead to fragility of the coating and overuse of covering materials.

Today, on the building materials market, there are several types of compositions that are divided into groups based on a binder and can be used indoors:

• Acrylic
  They can be used on almost any surface (plaster, concrete, cement, brick, wood, plywood). They have no specific odor and dry for 5 hours. Most often they are used for.

• Alkyd.
  Best suited for woodworking. Upon contact of the material with the structure of the tree, a surface is formed that is susceptible to most finishing coatings.
  Drying time - up to 15 hours. Suitable for use in a country house with wooden walls.
  There are several varieties of alkyd compounds: based on zinc phosphate (suitable for alkyd paints), based on zinc chromate, which has almost the same properties, but has a wider range of applications (it is not recommended to use on gypsum and plaster).

• Glifthal.
  Designed for the treatment of metal and wooden surfaces. What if you want to do in the garage? They can be used only in rooms with low humidity. Drying time is one day.

• Perchlorovinyl.
  They can be used for coating metal surfaces, as well as for concrete and brick coated with plaster.
  They are used mainly for external work, easily tolerate low temperatures. Dry in one hour (at a temperature of +20 ° C).

Priming

From the author:welcome dear reader. We are glad that you decided to visit our repair and construction portal. At the final stage of repair work in an apartment, one question often arises, which I had to come across once: do I need to prime the walls before wallpapering. Is it worth it to be done, why do a primer on the walls at all, than a primer on a work surface?

I believe that everyone who has had repairs in the apartment at least once has come across similar issues. Today we will answer these and other questions that, theoretically, you might have at the final stage of wall decoration in your house / apartment / studio / office and so on.

And we will start, perhaps, with the fact that we will make one small conclusion: wallpaper must be glued exclusively to the wall surface prepared for this. That is, in front of the wallpaper, the walls should be even, clean, dry, without the remnants of the old wallpaper and without the peeling off old plaster.

It would seem - this is obvious. But, unfortunately, wallpaper is not always glued to a properly prepared surface. Of course, everyone has their own reasons, but, nevertheless, the walls should be prepared. It will be better for wallpaper and for you.

But now we are not talking about general surface preparation. About how to align walls to wallpaper and how to choose glue for wallpaper - on our comfortable site there are separate articles with which, incidentally, you would also want to get acquainted. Our current topic is the primer. So, this procedure is part of the correct one.

Primer Benefit Section

Why do primers? Now we will give a few, in my humble opinion, weighty arguments presented in convincing form:

• protection against mold. This is true not only with high humidity in the room. Fungal colonies, in other words, mold, can appear where, according to all the canons of the genre, it should not be. And the fungus not only spoils the aesthetic appearance of the interior - it is dangerous. Firstly, mold releases disputes harmful to human and animal health into the environment, and secondly, it gradually destroys building materials. She literally eats not only wallpaper, but also plaster, brick and even concrete. For clarity, pay attention to the picture taken in one of the apartments of an ordinary nine-story building:

At the same time, the humidity in the room was within normal limits. These fungal colonies are just the tip of the iceberg. After removing the wallpaper in this corner, it turned out that something terrible was happening with the walls. Unfortunately, there are no photographs left, but take a word;

• protection against walls of destruction. The primer contributes to reliable adhesion of the upper layer of the plaster and, thus, prevents cracking and peeling of the plaster. Did you notice the walls where in some places the brickwork is visible, although it should not be visible? So, - this is due to improper primer or its absence;
• alignment of walls. Here, I suppose, everything is clear. If you do not use gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) for leveling, - there is probably no other way to level the work surface than the primer and subsequent putty;
• safety net for future repairs. Here we mean that if you used GKL when leveling the walls, then the wallpaper will simply stick tightly to non-primed and not putty walls. This means that during the next cosmetic repair, sometime there will be a need to change these very wallpapers - it will be very, very difficult to remove them, without damaging the drywall.

I believe that we have given quite weighty arguments in favor of the wallpaper. Before we figure out how to prime a surface, let's figure out how to prime.

Types of primers

As we know, the modern wound of building materials does not limit us in our choice. So, you come to a construction supermarket - and your eyes run wide. Indeed, with the current abundance of everything, it’s quite difficult to choose exactly what you need. But we will make it easier for you. On the shelves of stores you can find products of various brands that specialize in the production of finishing materials. But the types of primer are actually not as many as it might seem at first glance.

Since our article is not advertising in nature, here we will not do advertising for any of the brands. We will only name the main types of primers that are available in modern stores, and we will leave the choice, respectively.

So, the types of primers:

• acrylic. Suitable for almost any material: even a concrete wall, even a brick, even a tree. The only thing that the acrylic primer does not fit is metal. The substance does not have a sharp specific smell. Before wallpapering it is used quite often. We can say that this is the most popular type of primer;
• alkyd. Designed primarily for wood. Dries no more than 12-15 hours. Perhaps the best solution for a house with wooden walls is not to be found. It is recommended to use such a primer both for new wood and for old, which has already been subjected to various kinds of processing, including the application of paints and varnishes;

• glyphthalic. They primed metal and wooden wall surfaces. Suitable for rooms with only moderate humidity. Dry in about 24 hours;
• perchlorovinyl. Used for metal and concrete. It can also be used for a brick wall, which was covered with plaster. It dries quickly - in about two hours at a temperature of 18 ° C. Such a composition is used, as a rule, for exterior decoration.

Wall preparation and priming

Wall preparation should begin by cleaning the surface of old wallpaper, plaster that is about to collapse, possible sticking nails, fittings, and so on. In general, everything that can interfere with further work needs to be eliminated. Next, we treat the working surface with an antiseptic. Yes, the primer serves as protection against fungal formations, but an antiseptic will definitely not be superfluous for prevention.

After the preparation of the wall for subsequent processing is completed, it is time to start applying the primer. It should be applied to the wall with uniform movements, using a roller or brush-head. You should not save on material: the primer must be distributed over the entire surface, while not being afraid to overdo it.

The thing is that if you overdo it and apply more primer to the wall, this is not at all critical. You just spend more stuff - that's all. Much worse if you do not apply the right amount of composition to the wall. Then in these places the plaster can simply peel off from the wall. We will be frank, if the plaster mix is \u200b\u200bof high quality, then the probability of such an outcome is extremely small, but, nevertheless, it is better to play it safe.

Plastering

As we understand it, the matter does not end on the primer of the walls. On the contrary, - everything is just beginning. Depending on the degree of curvature of the walls, you should choose a processing method.

Now you are offered two options for the development of events:

• ordinary putty;
• stucco on lighthouses.

The choice of one of these two options is determined primarily by the degree of curvature of the walls. If the irregularities are insignificant, then it will not be difficult to fix them using the starting putty. But if something like what is shown in the photo below is located on your wall, moreover, such defects are found everywhere, then you cannot do without plastering on lighthouses.

With such flaws, you can, of course, use drywall to align the walls. However, it will be right. But if the GCR takes too much usable area from an already not very large room, there is only one way out. Need to take on the lighthouses and the rule.

Now let's take a look at the process of wall plastering.

Normal putty

The material consumption is determined by a simple formula, which cannot be called a formula: 1 kg per 1 m² with a layer thickness of 1 mm, or, in another way, (1 kg: 1 m²) × 1 mm. It is necessary to prepare the putty mass strictly in the quantity in which you are going to use it, as they say, here and now. The fact is that the next day she will already be unsuitable for work.

Now that the putty is mixed to a homogeneous state, it's time to start applying it to the wall. We take a narrow spatula (≈10 cm), scoop up the putty mass from the container, then apply it to a wide one (at least 40 cm). We put a layer of putty on the wall, clean the wide spatula from the remnants of the mass - and repeat the procedure.

The composition should be applied in two layers, between which for greater strength and reliability it will be useful to lay a reinforcing mesh. At the same time, consider one important nuance: if you use a cement-sand mixture, then a plastic reinforcing mesh cannot be used. It is not designed to stay in an alkaline environment, so it should be used only when working with gypsum solutions.

Layers of plaster are applied with strokes perpendicular to each other. In other words, if you applied the first from top to bottom, then the second should be applied from left to right.

Take note of one fact: the greater the angle of inclination of the spatula, the thicker the layer of applied plaster. In the process, you will recall that you read about it here and will adjust the layer thickness in this way.

Before you start wallpapering, you should apply a layer of finish plaster. But it should be applied after the main, starting plaster has dried (this will take ≈24 hours at a temperature of 15–20 ° C). The topcoat layer will be very thin compared to the thickness of the starting layer, but this procedure cannot be neglected. In addition, after the finishing putty has dried, use a building grater to give the surface perfect evenness and smoothness.

Now consider another way of processing walls, which should be resorted to with more significant irregularities.

Lighthouse plaster

This is not to say that the plastering of the lighthouses is fundamentally different from the first method. The fundamental difference is only that here we will use beacons and the rule. Now let's take a look at the work in stages, so that you have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat you have to go through:

• installation of beacons. On how to do it right, take a look at the video:

• work surface preparation. That is, the removal of old plaster, the application of an antiseptic and a primer. We have already talked about this in the previous sections;
• we clean the lighthouses with a spatula in the places of their fastening (before the “lighthouse influx”). This is necessary so that our rule does not meet any resistance in its path and runs smoothly;
• prepare the plaster;
• we lubricate the lighthouses with the mixture on the sides so that there are no voids under them after completion of work;
• we start to spray the mixture on the wall to a height of ≈50 cm from the floor;
• we assign the rule to the guiding beacons, then with the movements ↔ / we begin to tighten the mixture. The solution that remained on the rule should be removed with a spatula, and then dumped onto the wall again. The ↔ / movements should be performed several times, since the non-frozen mixture floats a little under the influence of gravity. Those holes that will inevitably remain after you go through the lighthouse rule for the nth time, we will safely coat after the composition has dried;
• we pass along the entire working surface with such movements;

Here's how the process looks in the video:

It goes without saying that it is too early to glue the wallpaper on the wall at this stage. First you need to apply a layer.

To summarize

Now you know how to primer and putty the walls in front of the wallpaper. Often, one question arises: whether it is necessary to putty on a drywall wall, because GCR is already perfectly smooth. So - before sticking wallpaper - it is a must. In the course of the article, we have already mentioned that it will be impossible to tear off the wallpaper from the non-puttied surface of the GCR without damaging the wall. Just don’t forget about it.

On this information on this topic can be considered exhausted. But on our site there are many more useful articles of various contents regarding repair work. Therefore, come to us again if you have other questions related to the repair and construction.

In addition, you can ask your questions in the comments below. You can also offer a theme for detailed coverage on our website. We will certainly take into account your proposal and write an article on the topic you have proposed, if it turns out to be interesting and relevant. Until next time, dear reader, we will be glad to see you again!

With the advent of new building materials on the market, it became possible to improve the quality of repair and finishing work. The word “European-quality repair” has come into our daily life, which implies a special quality finish.

During construction, an ideal surface cannot be made right away, so it is necessary to carry out additional work related to the improvement, repair, leveling, and strengthening. This process is called interior and exterior decoration. Finishing includes installation and finishing work.

Installation work is the creation of a surface using various plates: particleboard, fiberboard, OSB, hardboard, slate, plywood, drywall, wood. As well as PVC material, ceramic tiles, etc. Plastering, puttying, whitewashing, painting, varnishing, and wallpaper decals are classified as finishing work. A very important component of the finish is the use of a primer in the work.

The most important purpose of primers is to increase adhesion. “Adhesion” is translated from Latin as “sticking”. This connection arises due to the adhesion of material molecules due to the chemical effects of substances.

The primed surface strengthens the adhesion of dissimilar materials to the base. It prevents mold from developing and prevents the occurrence of fungus, isolates the penetration of rust on the surface, reduces the consumption of paint and wallpaper glue. The use of a primer in the sticker of wallpaper increases the comfort and quality of work and reduces labor costs.

Materials used for interior decoration cannot do without obligatory impregnation. This requires the technical process of wallpapering.

In the market of building materials there is a wide selection of impregnating compositions for priming various surfaces. Their main task is to strengthen the foundation. But there are also additional features.

For use with different materials, there are several types that differ in their composition. Some of them are made on a water basis. These are acrylic, latex, silicate and silicone primers. Others are made on the basis of gypsum, cement or lime. These are natural materials. There are primers on organic solvents. These are solutions with latex, alkyds or polyurethane.

The purpose of the primers can be different, but most often they successfully interchange each other. For example, a deep penetration primer combines both reinforcing qualities and water-repellent and adhesive functions.

• Insulating. They contain resins or oils, various types of adhesives, which are film-forming substances. The waterproofing layer creates a water-repellent surface, which is especially important before wallpapering.
• Anticorrosive. Designed specifically for metal, they differ in their effect on the material. When moisture gets on the metal, a chemical reaction occurs, the material begins to oxidize, which leads to the appearance of rust. It negatively affects the appearance of the room, spoils the wallpaper. To avoid this, various types of processing are treated with anti-corrosion primers:
  1. phosphating primer containing phosphoric acid;
  2. passivating primer forms an oxide film. Under the influence of impregnation, the metal takes a passive chemical form, and the film protects it from moisture;
  3. the tread primer includes zinc dust, which, when moisture enters the metal, is destroyed, thereby protecting the material.

• Universal the primer is an aqueous solution with the addition of chemical compounds. Penetrating deep into the surface, it increases the adhesion of materials, removes small particles of dust. It is universal because it is used for various substrates and materials. Suitable for both internal and external use.
• Antifungal primers prevent, and some formulations even actively fight against mold and fungus. At the same time, they fasten the surface and increase the adhesion of materials. They can be used for prevention.
• Primers concrete contact. In the composition they have a filler in the form of quartz or marble sand. They are used to work with plaster or ceramic tiles. It is not suitable for wallpaper.

The characteristics of the primer are usually indicated on the product label or packaging:

• what color does she have. Basically, primers when dried do not change the color of the coating on which they are applied. They are transparent. But there is a covering impregnation, which paints the wall in white. This happens due to the content of a large number of pigmenting substances in it;
• consumption in one layer g / m2. This characteristic is needed to select the amount of purchased material. It also depends on the application surface. If the amount of primer is not enough a little, and there is no way to buy it, then the rest of the solution can be diluted with the base on which it is made;
• drying time. Each manufacturer is guided by test readings of the goods. The drying time indicated on the label will help not to disrupt the technical process;
• type of material to be processed. On the label you can read for what type of surfaces this type is used;
• type of use. For internal or external work;
• application method.

The remaining parameters can be useful only to narrow specialists.

For walls, the following types of primers are suitable for wallpaper:

• Acrylic. This universal impregnation is ideal for treating wooden, concrete and brick walls. It is made on the basis of acrylic polymers, penetrates deeply into the pores of the surface and due to this it strengthens loose materials well. It does not have a pungent odor, dries quickly, is environmentally friendly and has a low material consumption.
• Alkyd. Such impregnation has good anti-corrosion properties. In its manufacture, zinc and phosphate are used. It is environmentally friendly and well suited for processing metal and wood, walls made of fiberboard, particleboard and OSB boards. It is diluted with white spirit. Not suitable for use with drywall and plaster. Due to the content of pigment particles in it, it forms a white surface. It can be used as a topcoat.
• Latex. Suitable for all surfaces. Quick drying.
• Mineral. It is used for concrete, brick and plastered surfaces. It is made using cement, lime and gypsum.
• Ordinary glue. The cheapest option.

For bare walls, a deep penetration primer is used.. These are walls made of foam and gas blocks, old lime and cement plasters. After applying the primer, it is absorbed into the base to a depth of 15 mm. Fills the pores, holding the material together and forming a durable film, which will provide a high-quality connection with the finishing material.

Such walls absorb moisture well. Therefore, most often, the application of a second layer is required, which needs to be primed with the surface after the first layer has completely dried.

The primer is always applied with a roller and brush. With large volumes of work, you can use a spray gun, without forgetting about protective clothing and a respirator.

If there are no special requirements for the base, choose a universal primer. It is latex and acrylic water-based impregnations. They are cheaper than specialized formulations, dry quickly, are economically consumed, and have no chemical smell. The use of such primers (primers) will provide all the requirements.

For wooden coatings choose alkyd impregnation. She well hides resinous knots that will not appear for a long time. It is suitable for fiberboard, particleboard and OSB boards, well insulates the iron base.

Mineral and silicate impregnations are used for plastered, brick, concrete, and foam concrete walls.

The most common type of final (finishing) decoration of a room is wallpaper. During their existence, little has changed in the method of work. Only additional elements of the preparatory work appeared and the variety of the wallpaper itself expanded.

Wallpaper differ in several types and types.

• ordinary. These are paper and acrylic; they do not like moisture and mechanical influences;
• water resistant - tolerant of water on them;
• washable - during operation non-aggressive washing agents can be used in places of severe pollution and brush;
• super washable - Basically, it is a different type of vinyl wallpaper, moisture-proof and wear-resistant.

According to the material and quality requirements for finishing the base on which they will be glued:

• Paper. They are multi-layer and single-layer, exhibit all the defects of the walls, so the base should be perfectly flat and monophonic. From glue they get wet and swell. If the base is puttied with a sandstone and not primed, the wallpaper will pull it along and tear it out. An exception may be the method of lap stickers.

To create a single tone, pigmented impregnation is used. It creates a white surface, which prevents the manifestation of uneven sections on the wall. It is easier to work with it, since unpainted areas are immediately visible;

• Non-woven. They are based on non-woven fiber made from cellulosic or synthetic fibers. When choosing a wallpaper you need to pay attention to their density. They are light, medium and heavy. The quality of the finish may not be ideal, their density can hide small flaws in the base;
• Vinyl. Thanks to the vinyl layer on the base, they can be used in rooms with high humidity. They are durable, resistant to fading, they can be washed. A relatively flat surface treated with pigmented impregnation is suitable for them;

• For painting. A kind of non-woven wallpaper. Due to the fact that these wallpapers are covered with water-based paint, the base must be treated with a primer. If this is not done, the wallpaper will go away when painted;
• Liquid. In fact, it is a subspecies of plaster. The price of liquid wallpaper is quite high. To save money, it is advisable to make a flat and durable surface using sandless plaster and coat it with a primer.

When there were only paper wallpapers, to change the interior, it was enough to stick new strips of material on existing ones. Thus, the concrete wall was insulated. Sometimes, for this, newspapers were even pre-glued. Now there are many new types of wallpapers for every taste and with various properties. And the walls have become more diverse.

During the repair, old wallpapers are dismantled. It is most convenient to use a manual spray gun with warm water and a spatula. If the old wallpaper is poorly behind the surface, cuts can be made on them with a sharp knife. Then the water will penetrate faster under them.

Non-woven vinyl wallpapers can be removed in two steps. First, the vinyl coating breaks off, and then the remainder is wetted with water. Instead of water, you can use an acetic solution. There are also special tools to help remove the wallpaper.

Priming the surface in this case is not necessary, since the wall is already saturated with glue. The use of a primer is necessary for new surfaces.

Surface treatment technology depends on the wall material:

Need to clean it from dust. Put cavities from crushed stone and joints between slabs and clean them with sandpaper. Use for concrete impregnation with diluted glue.

To improve adhesion, it is preferable to apply universal impregnation, mineral soil for cement mixtures is also suitable. For a good result, the walls are putty with a sandstone.

When the plaster is not new, it must be tapped in order to find out if it has not moved away from the base. In places of muffled sounds, it fights off the base. These places are saturated with a deep penetration primer. After drying, they are plastered.

If the plaster is old or loose, it must be strengthened with a deep penetration primer. Depending on the condition, two layers are applied. When the base is strong, then they do the same as with a concrete wall.

The surface under the wallpaper can not be processed. But it is still desirable to cover the drywall with universal soil. It is not advisable to apply PVA-based impregnation - the wallpaper will stick to the base tightly, it will be very difficult to remove them. The seams at the drywall must be putty. The result is a non-uniform color surface that can appear through the wallpaper.

To avoid this, drywall is covered with a thin layer of putty to align the walls around the perimeter. After that, the surface must be primed. For this, a pigment primer does not hurt.

Paint is removed with a building hair dryer and a spatula. You can get rid of it chemically. To do this, you need to purchase a special tool, treat it with a surface and clean it with an iron brush. When using a grinder for these purposes, there will be a lot of dust, and sanding paper will immediately clog the sanding machine.

In order to qualitatively prepare such a wall for wallpapering, you need a putty. To do this, make notches on the wall with an ax, hammer or chisel. Impregnate the base with a universal primer.

After it dries, they putty with a mixture to level the walls. Under the wallpaper, one layer of putty is enough. After the putty dries, it is primed.

If there is no way to get rid of the paint or use putty, proceed as follows. Before doing anything, the walls must be degreased. An old painted surface must be roughened for better adhesion.. To do this, it is treated with sandpaper and impregnated with a universal primer.

It is impossible to glue wallpaper for painting on painted walls without additional processing. When applying paint, the moisture contained in it will not be absorbed into the wall. The wallpaper will begin to swell, the glue under them will soften and under their weight they will disappear.

For these bases, an alkyd primer is used. Lacquered metal and wood are pre-trimmed with emery. The primer is applied in two layers.

For a good result, the internal walls are putty with dry putties. The way to glue overlapping wallpaper is a thing of the past, now all wallpapers paste joint to joint. To do this, create a perfectly flat surface.

Fill walls made of chipboard, OSB, gypsum plasterboard, cement and lime plasters, coated with oil paint or alkyd enamel. The solution is applied to the walls and ceiling with a thickness of not more than 3-4 mm in several layers. For the first layer, putty is used with a larger grain size. Her task is to level the plane. Top cover with a final layer of fine grain to give the surface an ideal look.

For work, use two spatulas. One is for applying the mixture to the surface, the other is diluted with a solution and applied to the first spatula. After applying the solution to the wall and its dry the surface with sandpaper or fine sandpapermounted on the grout. Dust generated during mashing is brushed off the wall with a broom or brush. A vacuum cleaner would be ideal.

The putty is loose and absorbs moisture very well. It must be impregnated with a primer, which helps to fasten the composition and saves the consumption of wallpaper glue.

In most cases, the impregnation is sold in liquid form, ready to use. But there are times when it has a concentrated consistency. This is done to save packaging during transportation.

Such an impregnation must be diluted before use. It is available in powder form. Proportions for dilution are indicated by the manufacturer. Water is usually used for dilution, but there are times when chemicals are used as diluent. For example, alkyd impregnation can be diluted with white spirit.

The primer for wallpaper walls is in retail, and they themselves do it quite often. But many people wonder if it is necessary to prime the walls before wallpapering, and if so, then how to prime the walls before wallpapering.
This topic will be devoted to our article. You can see photos and videos on this topic and do the job correctly.

Before you decide if you need to prime the wall before wallpapering, let's figure out why you need to prime the walls before wallpapering. After that, you can decide whether it is necessary to prime the walls before wallpapering in your case.

If you are not sure that you can correctly assess what kind of work is required in your case, you can invite a wizard. He will draw up a work plan, review them and execute in a short time.

Is it obligatory to prime the walls before wallpapering? The room itself probably decides. If this is a utility room and there is practically no one there, then it is quite possible to think about why the walls should be primed before wallpapering.
But this is far from right. After all, the wall, this is part of the frame of the house and the fungus can then expand throughout the entire structure.
So:

• The primed wall is made even and dry, the primer increases the reliability of adhesion of the adhesive to the surface. A good primer ensures that the bottom layer remains intact and does not crack, in addition, it will not allow moisture to absorb into the walls.
• The primer applied to the wall allows it to “breathe”, thereby creating a good microclimate, and preventing the fungus from spreading. Do not think that the wallpaper will hang well on the wall and without a primer, this is a huge mistake.
• The primer of the walls strengthens the outer part of the wall and penetrates inside. It simply fills the cracks and pores of the surface. It enhances the bonding of surfaces and extends the life of the wallpaper (see Wall decoration with wallpaper in the correct version). This is one of the main parameters why the primer is made under the wallpaper.

Training

Now we will figure out how to properly prime the walls before wallpapering. Like any work, this one needs its preparation. From this will in many respects envy durability.
So let's figure out how to ground the walls under the wallpaper:

• The walls are primed after all the initial stages of work, including the removal of nails and old plaster.
• The primer is applied after applying putty, which managed to dry.
• The primer for the walls under the wallpaper begins with the fact that the wall is wetted with special impregnation. This is necessary in order to wash away the dirt and dust that remains after rough surface treatment, because wallpaper cannot be glued to a dirty wall.
  Everyone knows that before, newspapers were first glued to the wall and wallpapers were already on them, but now the primer has forever replaced printed materials.
• After the primer dries, the wall does not get dirty and becomes stronger than before. Thus, the wallpaper lies flat on the wall and holds firmly and for a very long time.
• If you got a wall that was previously pasted with wallpaper, you need to remove them and wash off the glue. This is done with a metal spatula or scraper and water.

Attention: If the wallpaper does not absorb moisture well and lags behind the wall, then you need to make cuts on the wallpaper for better moisture penetration. Today, special liquid is sold in stores that quickly removes wallpaper.
This liquid is added to a bucket of water, and moisten the wall, leaving it moistened for half an hour. After half an hour, wet the wall again and easily remove the old wallpaper from the wall.

• When the wallpaper is removed, it is necessary to properly wash the wall with warm water and clean the surface of the wall with a wide spatula from glue and whitewashing.
• Often in rooms with high humidity, such as a kitchen or bathroom in the corners, mold is collected. This mold must be removed so that it does not appear on the newly repaired wall.
• Places where mold has settled should be treated with bleach. Typically, 200 grams of lime per liter of water is required. It should be noted that when pasting places where mold was located, glue must be bought with a fungicide content.
• After removing old wallpaper, glue and mold, you must meticulously examine the surface of the walls. Detected cracks and irregularities must be putty. If your apartment is not warm enough, then it can be made warmer with a thin layer of polystyrene. This method will not only make the apartment warmer, but also hide wall defects.
  Before priming the ceiling, you need to get rid of the hook, holes and cracks properly, filling them. If the ceiling consists of drywall, gypsum or another porous surface, then it must be primed in any case.

Work with a primer

Now we decide what to ground the walls before wallpapering. There are many materials in retail.
Some do it just glue pva. The primer of the walls is also made before gluing the wallpaper with glue exactly the one that will be used when gluing the material itself, for this it simply becomes more liquid.

Dilution of a primer

Therefore, than priming the walls under the wallpaper, it's up to you personally. Just before that, the instructions for using the primer should be carefully studied, it just can be for different surfaces. Although all of it is applied completely with your own hands.
So:

• The primer composition is best diluted in a bucket. The primer can be different and before you breed it, you must familiarize yourself with the instructions that are written on the package.
• It is necessary to mix the mixture well so that there are no lumps left. To stir the solution, you can use a drill with a mixer nozzle, in this case a very good composition is obtained. Manually, this quality of composition is difficult to achieve.
• The primer is applied with a wide brush. This is very similar to whitewashing the ceiling (see Ceiling Cladding: Types of Material). Having smeared an even layer of structure on a wall, avoiding roughnesses and unprocessed areas.
• After you have primed the wall for the first time, you need to give it time to dry. Drying times are usually written on the packaging. Even if by your standards the surface of the wall after the first primer looks perfect, you still need a second coat of primer.
• A lot depends on the quality of the wall on which the primer is applied, which can be impregnated differently on the same wall. When re-primed, the quality will be excellent and there will be no differences. You can work with a paint roller on a completely flat wall, which is much more convenient and even than working with a brush.

Types of soil

Before deciding how to prime walls for wallpaper, let's just look at a couple of types of mixtures most often used for priming surfaces.

Acrylic primer

This type of primer is able to work with putty, plaster and concrete. Acrylic primer always does its job.

Attention: If the surface of the wall is poorly treated, then the “deep penetration” primer will do just fine, but a regular primer does its job well.

So:

• The primer for wallpaper should be of good quality and to avoid troubles, you should buy a primer from well-known companies. Do not look at the inscription "for wallpaper", as this is nothing but a marketing ploy.
• In the store you can still find a substance called “primer for wallpaper”, which is actually just diluted PVA glue. But you need to know that this composition is several times more expensive than PVA glue itself.

Attention: Before buying an acrylic primer, be careful and see that the packaging says that the primer consists of a mixture of acrylic polymers, not PVA glue.

• An acrylic primer per square meter will need 100-200 milliliters. This may depend on how much the porous wall is.
• The primer is applied with a paint roller, but if there are hard-to-reach spots, then for this it is worth working with a wide brush. The primer should dry for about three hours, after which you can proceed to wallpapering.

Primed walls with glue for wallpaper

Many are familiar with the option of priming walls directly with wallpaper glue. Only with this option do not rush. You need to know that not just any glue, but just a few brands of wallpaper glue are suitable for priming the walls before wallpapering.
So:

• If the adhesive is intended for priming the walls, then this must be written on the packaging.
• On the same packaging it should be written how to spread the glue in order to use it as a primer. If you have not seen such an inscription, then this glue is intended only for wallpapering. Maybe this option is suitable in some cases, but still it can not be compared with an acrylic primer, because working with it is much easier and more pleasant.

Thus, we can safely say that you should not save on the primer for your home and do not “reinvent the wheel”, because the acrylic putty is already invented and will make your home better. Although it is up to you to decide whether you need to prime the walls before wallpapering.

The most important condition for the long service life of the wallpaper is their gluing on the walls pre-treated with a primer. Knowing , how to properly primer the walls before wallpapering, any homeowner will be able to prepare surfaces for high-quality and reliable application of paintings.

The real benefits of priming

It seems strange to some inhabitants to prime walls, while glue producers promise unprecedentedly high-quality wallpapering due to their products. In fact, the “primer process” should be excluded in only two situations:

• If the wallpaper is applied for a short time.
• When there is a sticking of light paper paintings.

In other situations, priming the walls is “vital”. The deep penetration primer is especially “powerful”.

• The surface becomes smooth and dry.
• Significantly increases the strength of the adhesive hitch with it.
• The entrance closes to moisture, cracks, fungi.
• In the case of the alleged painting of the wall, the primer before wallpapering creates a protective layer that prevents the “multi-colored” surface after painting.
• The integrity of the putty is preserved.
• The consumption of glue is reduced.
• Wallpaper life is extended.

The primed version of the walls is required for gluing vinyl or non-woven wallpaper.

Mix selection

What is a primer mix? This is an opaque solution that, when primed, fills the pores of the wall surface and, when dried, creates a thin film. It usually contains bitumen, oils, resins, various types of glue and other additives that accelerate the drying process. A high-quality primer always contains antiseptics.

To date, retail is pleased with a large number of offers. Each type of primer has its own characteristics.

The most important rule for choosing a primer is to carefully read the features of use. The mixture must exactly match the type of wall covering, room humidity and the type of wallpaper that is planned for gluing.

Training

Any need to prime walls requires the preparation of a work area. In general, the working order is usually divided into several stages.

• Cleaning surfaces from shabby wallpaper and glue - using a spatula and water.
• Processing places where mold is bleached - 200 g per liter of water. When pasting such a wall, wallpaper glue with fungicides is chosen.
• Priming the walls.
• Puttying, including gypsum plasterboard coated surfaces. When "potholes" on any wall are not visible more than 1-2 mm, putty is applied with a "filigree" layer. When the vertical is sufficiently curved or with potholes, first work as a base putty, then finish.

Operating procedure

How to prime walls before wallpapering? The process begins when the surfaces are cleaned and dried after finishing putty. If a ready-made mixture is purchased, it can immediately be “rolled” onto the wall. In other cases, the primer is pre-diluted.

1. Stir the primer in the bucket according to the instructions on the packaging. It is better to work with a drill with a mixer nozzle. No lumps should remain.
2. Primer begins with a wide brush or roller. Smear everything.
3. If the primer dries sufficiently under the wallpaper, the specialist can decide for himself, although it is better to dry the layer a little longer than indicated in the instructions.
4. For a perfect condition of vertical surfaces, re-priming is necessary.

Do not prime the walls painted with oil paint. Under light non-woven wallpaper, the surface is treated with “water emulsion”, so there is no need for a second protective coating.

Primer drying time

The most important question is how long should the primer dry before wallpapering? Of course, on every jar or bucket of primer such information is indicated. But there are a number of individual factors that also affect the timing of the wall’s readiness for further wallpapering. Such as the nature of the surface or air temperature.

It is forbidden to accelerate drying after priming by artificial heating.

Since there is no exact data on how much the primer dries before gluing the wallpaper, checking the readiness of the walls can be done in the simplest way - with tape, stick a small square of plastic film on the wall. If after half a day no condensation forms under the film, wallpapering can be done without a doubt. An additional guarantee of a successful repair will be the purchase of a primer coating strictly from a trusted manufacturer. The undisputed leader on this list are the German Knauf blends.

When priming, focus on quality, not speed. Remember that a quickly completed repair has every chance of resuming again. When wallpapering goes on high-quality primed walls, they “stick” not only “lightly”, but also for a very long period.