Unique fixtures and tools. Home-made machines and accessories for the home workshop: we make it by ourselves. Homemade Circular Saw

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For the rational use of space, communications and fixtures for the garage with their own hands from improvised materials are used. It is necessary to use the underground level in the process of the wall, place it indoors, and organize normal lighting.

Homemade appliances for the garage

For comfortable operation of the room intended for car storage, you should adhere to certain recommendations:

Depending on the dimensions of the building, the area occupied by equipment, appliances, communications should not exceed 10 - 20% of the size of the garage floor.

Storage locations, racks, workbenches

In 80% of cases, do-it-yourself garage accessories are built to store accessories, tools, and vehicle equipment. It should be noted that the most bulky parts of the machine are sets of winter / summer tires, depending on the season.

The main nuances of these designs are:

The width of the pit should allow the driver to call on it without lighting.

Lighting and ventilation

In garages, parallel schemes of lighting devices are more often used. One lamp allows you to use a specific area, several devices are turned on during major repairs, visiting the cellar. Minimum power consumption is provided. A large resource has daylight devices.

In cars, poisonous, harmful fuels and lubricants are used, therefore, do-it-yourself ventilation devices for the garage become relevant, allowing you to create air exchange. The inflow is organized from below:

  • garage - ventilation in the masonry, protected by bars;
  • cellar - a pipe from a garage or from the street.

The hood is mounted under the ceiling of the cellar, with the roof of the garage, or it has the appearance of vents in the main walls at the highest points.

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Other useful ideas

Useful accessories for the garage with your own hands can be made from used dishes, equipment left over after the construction of materials. For example, by gluing the lids of plastic cans horizontally / vertically, the owner receives a convenient transparent dish for accessories or hardware, which is always at hand.

Homemade machines

From a power tool, you can also assemble appliances for the garage:

  • drilling - a drill fixed by clamps in a device moving a gear along a rail;

  • detachable - clamped in the same way with angle grinder with metal or wood tooling;

The advantage of the machines is a more accurate positioning of the tool relative to the workpiece. The equipment turns out to be collapsible, remove the drill and angle grinder mono, apply as directed.

Related article:

Hydropress

The simplest design is obtained from an automobile hydraulic jack. To press out / press in bearings, press / compress parts, you will need to build a frame and a removable movable stop. The frame consists of 4 channels welded to each other. At the top, the structure is reinforced with stiffeners (kerchiefs), transverse corners are added from below, giving the frame stability.

The emphasis is pulled in a normal position to the upper crossbar of the frame with powerful springs. A hydraulic jack is installed between them, pressing the stop to the lower crossbeam of the frame as necessary. The force of the press is regulated by a jack, the dimensions of the working area are selected depending on the size of the workpieces.

And finally, a few more examples of useful things for the garage.

Nothing brings joy to the house like a thing created by your own hands. Indeed, different home-made products for the house not only fill life with bright colors, but also give the interior a uniqueness and a certain zest. And certainly it is impossible to forget about such a thing (let it be a little trinket). And it’s not so important that this is homemade wood from paper, from paper or plasticine. There are millions of options and methods for manufacturing various gizmos, and today we will consider several of them. So, how to make interesting homemade products for the home?

Tin Can Shelf

It would seem that such a trifle - a jar of coffee. However, even from it you can make a beautiful, convenient and useful shelf for storing household items. Often in such containers store various souvenirs and commemorative photographs. There is little practical benefit from this homemade product, but such jars look very harmonious.

Details on the manufacturing procedure of this craft

1. First, holes are drilled in the jars with a drill or a special knife-ripper (3 in the upper and lower, and 2 points in the walls of all others).

2. Next, the jars are fastened together. As fasteners, small nuts and screws are used. By the way, to get the desired (beautiful) result, you will need to have at least 5-6 such jars.

3. After, a hole for screws is punched in the tanks. In the bottom of the jars located in the upper part of the structure, 1-2 holes are made for attaching the shelves to the wall. Ready-made homework is screwed with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Previously, dowels are driven into the wall for this.

That's it, now home-made products for the house are being put into business. Be sure - a different trifle in such jars is definitely not lost. Thus, you kill two birds with one stone - decorate the interior and get rid of the mess in the house.

Homemade crafts - how to make a watch on a CD / DVD?

A watch on a CD is also a very interesting and original version of interior decoration.

As you can see, the design of this device is very original, but because it will organically look against the background of any interior (it may become its highlight). Such "smart" home-made products are made in a matter of minutes. We will tell you more about all the steps below.

So, how to make your own homemade watch? To begin with, you will need to prepare the appropriate materials - a CD / DVD (choose the design of the front of your choice) and a cover for it (the distance between the walls should be at least 0.05 centimeters). It is very important that the last part does not have any chips and scratches. To facilitate the work, you can buy ready-made watches and then simply replace the standard dial.

It must be arrow, otherwise it will not work to make a homemade product. Numbers should also be made. There should be twelve in total. It can be cardboard, paper or plastic circles. Their thickness should not exceed two millimeters. Rhinestones can be used as jewelry. You also need to prepare about 30-40 centimeters of wire, a piece of leather or fabric and super-glue of the “Moment” type. The main of this design will be a CD-ROM. We will redo it first of all.

First you need to mark the disk into twelve equal parts and stick the numbers on the marked points. In this case, the sectors should not go beyond the outer diameter of the device. How do homemade products do next? After sectors, we proceed to the clock itself - remove the arrows and place them exactly in the center of our disk. By the way, before fixing them you can stick some interesting photograph on the disc, which will make the watch design even more original.

To increase the size of the arrows, use thin metal strips. To achieve the desired result, it is enough to apply glue on them and carefully place the part evenly on the entire surface of the guiding elements. The arrow mechanism itself is attached to the back of the disk.

What to do next?

So, the base of the watch is almost ready. The next step will be making holes in the device along the contour of the arrow mechanism. The field of this disk is installed in the case. The mechanism itself is brought out through the hole and is closed tightly. Now, with the help of the wire, an emphasis is made, which is glued to the back cover. To make it more durable, glue a piece of cloth or leather over it. This will make the emphasis not only strong, but also beautiful, since the excess part of the wire no longer gapes on the watch as before. Everything, a home-made watch from a CD is successfully made. It remains only to insert the AA battery and set the time. By the way, the battery can also be made with your own hands.

How to make an energy source out of lemon?

As we know, this fruit contains a lot of acid, respectively, with the right actions, a lemon can be turned into a real mini-battery.

Of course, the charge from such a “battery” is not enough for the operation of household appliances, but this current is enough for the functioning or charging of a mobile phone.

We make homemade products - preparing tools for turning lemon into a source of constant energy

During the work you will need tools such as a knife, soldering iron, drill, iron pin, as well as several pieces of copper wire in isolation. Among other items, it should be noted the need for one glass or wineglass, a pair of wooden sticks and the same number of stationery buttons. And, of course, the main source of energy for us will be lemon. You can also use orange, but the acid in it is much less, so the charge from it will be minimal.

Instruction manual

First you should cut the lemon in half. This is necessary so that he gives more acid needed for the lemon to be fixed in a glass so that it does not roll around the table. Then, copper and iron pins are inserted into its flesh along the entire perimeter at a distance of 0.5-1 centimeter. The minus will be iron, and the plus is copper.

Pieces of wire are attached to all pins with a soldering iron. They will act as a connector for the power source. All elements are connected in series.

At the final stage, sticks are inserted into the battery compartment. It is important to observe the polarity. Contacts are pressed to the contact group. The container remains open throughout the entire process of charging the device.

So, we figured out how to make useful homemade products for the house with our own hands. Good luck in your endeavors!

Each master seeks to equip his sphere as much as possible, to saturate the working space with machine tools and devices. Home-made machines and appliances for the home workshop are of great benefit for running a private household.

Among the home-made household crafts and equipment can be identified:

  • joinery;
  • workbench;
  • stool;
  • shelves;
  • shelving.

Workbench

Workbench dimensions

The height of the surface of the countertop should be such that a worker can use tools and equipment while standing. The height of the workbench is determined by the owner of the workshop - according to his height. The height of the desktop ranges from 75 cm to 80 cm.

The size of the countertops is determined by the area of \u200b\u200bthe utility room. The table should not impede free passage around it.

Workbench Material

Wood
Often use a wooden table. A workbench is made of timber and boards. The legs of the table are held together with diagonal cross members for reliability.

The countertop is made in the form of a shield from downed boards with pieces of timber. The shield is rested on the legs of the table and fastened with nails or screws. Connection details are made from a steel corner.

The assembly options for the wooden workbench are different, but in one they are the same - the table design must be stable and withstand static and dynamic loads.

If the surface of the workbench will be subjected to random influences of cutting and sharp tools, then the tabletop is covered with tin or a metal sheet is placed on top.

Metal
The most reliable desktop design is a workbench welded from a metal profile. The manufacture of a welded product implies the presence of a welding machine and experience with it.

The supporting frame and table legs are welded from a steel corner and strip. For auxiliary parts, segments of reinforcement are used.

The table top is made of a metal sheet with a thickness of 8 - 12 mm. A thick sheet will significantly increase the weight of the workbench, which is associated with difficulties in moving it.

Stool

Making a stool with your own hands is quite simple:

  1. From a 40 x 40 mm timber, 4 supports are made, 50 cm long.
  2. Legs in the middle of the length are fastened with cross members.
  3. Grooves are made in the supports of the chisel.
  4. At the ends of the transverse slats of the chisel, protrusions are cut to the size of the grooves.
  5. The protrusions are lubricated with carpentry glue and inserted into the grooves.
  6. While the glue is drying, the supports are pulled together with a belt.
  7. The seat is cut with a circular saw from a wide board 30 mm thick.
  8. A seat measuring 300 x 300 mm is nailed or screwed to the legs of a stool with screws.

Shelves

Shelves are made from boards, chipboard or MDF. They are open or with side walls. For fasteners use hinged furniture hinges.

Holes are drilled into the wall into which dowels are driven. The screws are not completely screwed into the dowels so that they can be put on the hinges of the shelf.

The hinges are screwed to the back of the shelf. Shelves are hung on the wall, putting loops on the heads of the screws.

Shelving

Shelving is a whole range of shelves of different sizes. They are good to make from chipboard. The lattice structure is supported on a pedestal or simply placed on the floor. For stability of the rack, corners are screwed to the sides of the furniture. Free shelves of corners with holes are nailed with dowels to the wall.

Vertical tool holders

Each craftsman seeks to organize his workplace so that the tools are at arm's length. This is facilitated by the vertical holders.

Spanner holder

  1. A wooden plank is mounted on the wall above the workbench. The rail is fastened with screws in the dowels installed in advance.
  2. Small nails are driven into the bar with gaps equal to the width of the wrenches.
  3. The keys are hung on a rail.
  4. Hats of nails hold the keys in a horizontal and vertical plane.

Screwdriver holder

  1. In a section of a bar of 40 x 40 mm, holes corresponding to the diameters of screwdrivers are drilled, at a distance from each other of 30 - 40 mm.
  2. A piece of timber is nailed to the wall with dowels so that the holes are located vertically.
  3. Screwdrivers are inserted into the received sockets. Now you can quickly get the right tool without leaving the workplace.

Chisel belt

  1. The bar is fixed with dowels to the wall.
  2. A belt or belt is nailed with studs to the bar so that you get peculiar through pockets.
  3. Chisels are lowered into the pockets, through which only steel blades pass. Handles are held by a belt.

In the device you can hold hammers, pincers, pliers and other tools.

Homemade soldering iron stand

When working with a soldering iron, a situation arises when you need to postpone the tool. Putting a soldering iron with a hot tip on a countertop or on an object is always risky. Homemade stand will solve this problem.

Soldering iron stand example

  1. The holder is made of wire in the form of a spiral. To do this, the wire hanger for clothes is unbent.
  2. The wire is wound on a cylindrical object, with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. The handle of a chisel or other tool is suitable.
  3. On one side, the springs leave the free end of the wire.
  4. The end is bent with pliers into a loop.
  5. For the base of the stand take a board 200 x 100 x 20 mm.
  6. A through hole ø 4 mm is drilled at the base.
  7. On the back of the board, a hole is drilled with a large drill - under the screw head screw.
  8. The screw is threaded from the bottom up.
  9. Put a spring loop on the screw and tighten the nut.
  10. In the board, a crown cut out circles to the size of a cup for candles or similar products.
  11. Chisels make a selection of wood in 3 recesses.
  12. Cups are inserted into the openings, which are filled with solder, tin and a napkin to clean the sting.
  13. The soldering iron is inserted into the spring.
  14. A small hole is made in the board for attaching a flexible steel cord from the lamp.
  15. At the end of the cord, a clamp is fixed with which various soldering parts are fixed.

The design may have a different look - it all depends on the imagination and ingenuity of the author.

The easiest mousetrap in the world

This name can be assigned to many home-made mousetraps invented by craftsmen. They are united by one thing - this is the humane treatment of animals trapped in a trap. The device does not kill the animal, but isolates it. A few examples of how to make a simple mousetrap:

Plastic funnel

Cut a plastic 3 liter cylinder in half. The cut neck is turned over and inserted into the bottom of the bottle. The bait is poured on the bottom (seeds, grain, etc.).

The trap is placed close to the object on which the mouse could climb. The rodent, having fallen into the funnel, can no longer get out of the bottle.

Console

The design is a tipping platform. It is made from a piece of cardboard or plastic. The bar is placed on a plane so that half of it hangs in the air.

The bait is placed on the edge of the console so that the bar is on the verge of equilibrium. The animal, having reached the bait, overturns the bar and falls with it into the substituted bucket.

Suspension

An empty plastic bottle with bait at the bottom is placed on the edge of the table. A cord is attached to the neck by piercing the plastic with a crochet from a paper clip. The other end of the cord is tied to any support.

The mouse, attracted by the smell of food, enters the tank. The bottle capsizes under the weight of a rodent and hangs on a cord.

Mini vise from a metal loop

When performing small operations, it is often necessary to clamp small parts. To do this, use a mini vise made of a one-piece door hinge.

Matching holes are drilled in both hinges.

They thread a bolt of suitable diameter. On the other hand, the wing nut is screwed onto the thread of the bolt. Parts are inserted into the opening between the wings and clamped by tightening the nut. The device can be used as a clamp.

Portable beer box

A box for drinks in a glass container is a convenient device for carrying several bottles at once in a summer cottage or picnic. To make such a box yourself, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tools

  • jigsaw;
  • saw on wood;
  • grinder;
  • drill / driver;
  • drill;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • feather drill.

Materials

  • edged board - 1050 x 170 x 15 mm;
  • strips from a fruit box - 5 pcs.;
  • shank ø 36 mm and a length of 350 mm;
  • stain;
  • screws;
  • nails.

Step-by-step assembly instructions

  1. The edged board is sawn into three identical parts (bottom and two sidewalls), 350 mm long.
  2. Two boards are cut with a jigsaw so that from their middle the sidewalls narrow and end with an oval top.
  3. At the tops of the sidewalls, holes ø 36 mm are drilled with a pen drill.
  4. All wooden parts are cleaned with an emery wheel grinder. The cuttings are sanded manually by emery.
  5. A thin drill drills 4 holes along the edges of the bottom. Bottom nests of holes countersink.
  6. Sidewalls are installed on the sides of the bottom. Screws are screwed in from the bottom. The heads of the screws "hide" in the holes in the holes.
  7. Two strips on each side of the box are nailed to the sidewalls with cloves. They will become a vertical guard for bottles.
  8. In three planks, cuts are made so that, having folded them, a crate with square openings for glass containers is obtained.
  9. The crate is laid on the bottom between the sidewalls.
  10. Cloves are nailed in places where the ends of the crates abut against the sidewalls and the enclosing planks.
  11. Cuttings ø 36 mm are threaded into the holes of the vertices of the sidewalls.
  12. Driving nails at an angle, fasten the sidewalls with the handle.
  13. The entire surface of the box is treated with stain.

The box is ready for use. In a portable container 6 bottles of beer or another drink are freely placed. The crate and box fencing will not allow the bottles to break or fall out while carrying.

Hammer upgrade

A common occurrence is the fall of a wooden handle from a hammer socket. One of the ways to create a reliable handle fastening is to make a cut in the upper end of the handle. The holder is inserted into the hammer socket. Propyl is filled with Moment glue. A wooden wedge is driven into the groove.

In order not to look for nails during operation, and even more so not to hold them with teeth, a round magnet is glued from below into the handle of the hammer. Nails on a magnet will always be at hand of the worker.
It is dangerous to accidentally drop the hammer from your hand at height. To prevent this from happening, a hole is drilled in the handle through which the cord is passed. Worker belt is looped through the loop.

Homemade tools and machines

Pipe bender

The device for bending metal pipes is a metal rod welded to the bed. I make the rod from a segment of reinforcement. Put the pipe on the pin and, on the other hand, insert a long length of reinforcement into the pipe. By pressing the lever, the pipe is bent at the desired angle. The device is suitable for small sections of round pipes.

Tool for bending profiled pipes

Greenhouse owners know how important it is to have a device for bending long meters from a profile pipe. The curved profile is used as an arched structure for the formation of polyethylene coatings in greenhouses.

The pipe bender allows you to save considerable money on the construction of the greenhouse. The design consists of 3 rollers - two are guides, and the third roller performs a leading function.

The profile pipe is led into the opening between the two wheels and the roller. The roller has an emphasis and a rotary device in the form of a lever or an electric motor drive.

DIY pipe bender

  1. Two axes from sections of smooth reinforcement, on which old automobile hubs are worn, are welded to a bed of metal.
  2. Protruding chamfers are removed from the hubs so that the side surfaces of the rollers are smooth.
  3. In the aperture between the hubs, the channel is placed with the shelves up.
  4. In the channel they put the same profile, the smaller the width of the shelves down.
  5. An axis is welded from above to the inner profile, on which the third hub is worn.
  6. A vertical shelf of steel sheet is welded to the bed.
  7. A hole is cut in the vertical bar and a bearing is pressed into it.
  8. On the middle channel, fix the nut by welding.
  9. At one end, the screw shaft is screwed into the nut.
  10. A screw shank is threaded through a bearing in a vertical bar.
  11. From the back of the bar, a rotary handle is welded to the shank.
  12. A rotary lever is welded to the axis of the driving hub.

The machine is ready to go. A profile pipe is inserted between the rollers and clamped with a screw. The pivot arm drives the rollers that pull the pipe, bending it. The bending radius is set by the rotary handle of the screw.

A pipe bender from automobile hubs is one of the device options. There are many designs of bending devices. In some models, the drive roller is coaxially connected to the motor shaft.

Starter Impact Screwdriver

There are situations when it is impossible to unscrew a rusted bolt or screw with an ordinary tool. An impact screwdriver does an excellent job of this. The tool is made with your own hands from the parts of a car starter:

  1. From the starter housing, the shaft and the sleeve are removed.
  2. Part of the shaft is cut off, leaving a shaft with splines.
  3. A piece of pipe of a suitable size is put on the sleeve.
  4. At the end of the pipe, a piece of a bolt of equal diameter is welded.
  5. The end of the shaft is grinded in the shape of a tetrahedron, on which the heads of the desired size are worn. For screws, a bit is inserted into the head.

When the hammer hits the bolt head, the shaft slides with beveled slots inside the sleeve, making a rotational movement. The stronger the blow, the more force the shaft rotates.

Homemade Circular Sawing Machine

A do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder is not inferior to some factory-made samples. The grinder is a fairly powerful hand-held circular saw.

A grinder-based machine performs precise cuts of lumber and metal profiles. For its manufacture, you will need the power tool itself, a welding machine and a metal profile.

Step-by-step machine assembly instructions

  1. Two metal strips are welded to the pipe segment, in which mounting holes are drilled.
  2. Accordingly, two holes are also made in the casing of the grinder.
  3. The straps are bolted to the casing.
  4. The machine bed is made of a metal sheet with support angles welded from below.
  5. A vertical section of the corner in which a hole is drilled is attached to the bed by welding.
  6. A piece of a corner is welded to the lower end of the lever and drilled through with the pipe.
  7. Pass the bolt through the holes and tighten the swivel joint of the upright with the lever with a nut. Additionally install a lock nut.
  8. In the upright position, the lever of the grinder takes a stable position.
  9. At the point of contact of the saw blade with the bed, a cut is made so that the blade can completely cut the workpiece.
  10. The handle of the power tool is moved to the end of the lever.
  11. As additional devices, a transverse and angular emphasis is installed on the bed.

If necessary, the power tool is removed from the machine and a circular saw is used in manual mode.

Homemade Bow Saw

A beam saw is a convenient tool for sawing tree trunks and lumber. The design of the saw is simple, it’s easy to make a hand tool with your own hands. To do this, prepare the tools and materials:

Tools

  • drill;
  • hacksaw;
  • chisel;
  • hammer;

Materials

  • cord;
  • wooden rail 20 x 40 mm;
  • cotter pins - 2 pcs.;
  • shank ø 10 mm;
  • saw blade;
  • stain;
  • varnish on wood.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bow saw

  1. The rail is cut into three parts (two vertical side strips and an average horizontal bar).
  2. Grooves are made in the side handles of the chisel.
  3. At the ends of the middle of the chisel, protrusions are cut out under the grooves.
  4. The centerpiece is connected to the side handles.
  5. Through joints are drilled through holes. Wooden cotter pins are driven into them.
  6. The cotter pins form articulated joints. This is necessary for the mobility of the lower ends of the side rails when pulling the canvas.
  7. At the lower ends of the sidewalls, cuts are made - parallel to the center line.
  8. Short bolts are inserted into the holes of the saw blade and tightened with nuts.
  9. The blade is driven into the cuts so that the bolts are outside the structure.
  10. Circular grooves are cut at the upper ends of the handles.
  11. At the ends of the double cord make loops that are worn on the grooves.
  12. A stalk is inserted between the bowstrings of the cord, the long end of which abuts against the middle.
  13. The saw string is twisted with the help of the handle, achieving the desired degree of tension of the saw blade.
  14. The wood is covered with stain and two layers of varnish.
  15. After the varnish has dried, the saw is ready to work.

Conclusion

Home-made appliances, tools and machines not only bring significant benefits to the household, garage and household, but also significantly save the family budget. In the manufacture and use of homemade products, one must not forget about the safety rules.

Any owner of the workshop, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in the garage, seeks to equip it with everything necessary for comfortable, productive and, most importantly - high-quality work. That's just on a hand tool in our time is far from "leaving". A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, auxiliary equipment come to the rescue. There are no problems with the offer - the main difficulty is that quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But craftsmen find a way out of the situation by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment quite accessible materials are used, often just dusting in the barn. And as the drives are widely used running power tools, usually available in any workshop.

In this publication, only some home-made machines and appliances for the home workshop will be considered. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the variety of such equipment available within the framework of one article. Here it is just right to devote such a topic to a separate site. So basically a general overview will be given. But the manufacture of two models, very important, probably for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a grinding machine for a cutting tool, we will consider step by step, with all the nuances, from the first basting to testing.

The basis of the basics is a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories

The comfort of working in a workshop depends on many important conditions. If we put “outside the brackets” issues of heating, ventilation and lighting (these are topics for a separate consideration), then rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for the necessary tools, accessories, consumables and other trifles.

A workbench is selected or manufactured independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

Joiner's workbench of "classical" execution

If the owner is more focused on wood processing, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long-used and comprehensively tested general concept of such a workplace. Probably, when making a workbench yourself, it makes sense to stick to it.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (pos. 1), which from below, at the bottom, are usually paired with support-bridges (pos. 2). On top is a lid - a bench (pos. 3). As a rule, an in-depth section is provided - the so-called tray (item 4), so that during the work the necessary tools or accessories do not fall on the floor.

Usually on the right side is the side or rear clip (key 5). In fact, this is a screw vise, in which a wedge is pushed up (pos. 6). Along the line of this wedge, along a bench, there is a series of nests (item 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these nests or stored separately and inserted as necessary). This allows you to rigidly fix for processing a wooden workpiece between the wedges of the table and side vise.

To fix a lengthy part that cannot be fixed between the extreme wedges, use the front clamp (key 8). This is also a screw vice that can clamp the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and the movable wooden sponge. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, fingers or retractable supports hidden there in the grooves are pulled out from the end of the workbench (pos. 9).

The lower area of \u200b\u200bthe workbench is called the pod bench (key 10). As a rule, there are powerful crossbeams (sleeves) that connect the pairwise legs of the layout in the longitudinal direction. On these crossbars, shelves for storing tools or workpieces are often organized, or even, as shown in the shown diagram, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of a workbench. Anyone who knows how to read schemes and owns the skills of carpentry, will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with - the general wiring diagram of a carpentry workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.

For the manufacture of under-ground parts (bases), as a rule, high-quality coniferous wood with a residual moisture content of not more than 12% is used.

A workbench (cover) is mainly made of hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. To make such a massive dimensional panel on your own is an extremely difficult task, therefore, a ready-made glued panel is often ordered or purchased in a carpentry workshop. This is unlikely to seem too expensive, given the cost of the material and the complexity of the process. So it’s more profitable to purchase the finished product, and then modify it under the bench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often closed with plywood or fiberboard (naturally, the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As the wear of such a coating can be replaced with a new one - it is not so difficult and inexpensive.

Of particular difficulty is the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. To get really efficient and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw mechanism of a vice in a ready-made, assembled form. On sale are many suitable models for this purpose.

To assemble these clamping units, you can use the following drawing:

Vise sponges should be made exclusively of hardwood, the size and location of the holes shown in the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the acquired screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram demonstrates how to fix the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the bench cover.

Of course, an example is shown here, moreover, it can suit many in a "pure form", that is, without changes. But if other sizes are required (based, for example, from the available space), then you can draw up your drawing, taking the demonstrated schemes as an example of the assembly of certain nodes. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers to make their improvements, which, of course, should not adversely affect the strength of the structure.

Video: do-it-yourself bench

If the master plans to mainly engage in locksmith operations, then he will need a completely different workbench designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry "classics" - an innumerable number of possible options. As a rule, steel profiles (corners, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for manufacturing. One of the quite worthy options is shown in the video below:

An important component of the comfort of work in the workshop is always the optimized placement and storage system of tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It is convenient when you know where what lies and when the necessary tool is always at hand. So it is worth paying close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, reasonably organized places for storing consumables. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow "to roam." Questions on our portal are assigned a special publication.

Home-made machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of home-made machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to tell about everyone. Therefore, in this section of the article, the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, in detail, step by step will be considered the manufacture of two models of machine tools.

Video - electric wood miniature wood lathe

In the household often there is a need to grind one or another wooden part of circular cross section. If you do not do this professionally, then acquiring a real lathe is completely unprofitable. And he will take up a lot of space. But to have a miniature machine at your disposal, which can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed - never hurts. Moreover, its manufacture is not so difficult.

This can be seen by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And such a stanochka, guided by this video hint, is up to everyone to do.

Video - a circular machine based on a manual vertical electric saw

If there is a need to prepare a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then nothing better than a stationary circular saw can be invented. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again - in a collapsible version, which, as unnecessary, does not take up practically any place at all.

It will take only a sheet of plywood, a few bars and screws. And the main element of the design becomes a hand vertical saw

In the plot shown, the master removes part of the manual circular guard. This is not always necessary. It is possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if it is supposed to cut not too thick blanks.

The pendulum saw from the "grinder" - independent manufacturing step by step

When cutting blanks or wood or metal, including profile and round pipes, high accuracy is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the magnitude of the cutting angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to precisely cut blanks for any frame in which the parts are joined either strictly perpendicularly or at an angle of 45 degrees.

To perform such an operation allows the pendulum saw. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its structure and operation.

In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame), which ensures the stability of the machine (item 1). In many models, on top of the bed, a desktop is organized with a system of guides, stops and clamps that allow you to accurately expose the workpiece. There is always a slot (pos. 2), exactly into which a rotating circle or saw falls.

A support (pos. 3) of the swinging part of the machine is rigidly fixed on the bed. It is equipped with a bearing block and an axis (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging rocker platform (pos. 5) is rotated. On this platform there is an electric drive (pos. 6) that transmits rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to the cutting tool - a cutting wheel or circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or a handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disc down onto the workpiece fixed to the work table above the slot.

But the capabilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if you make a special milling table for it. One of the options for such a homemade machine - in the proposed video.

Homemade tool for sharpening a cutting tool - step by step

And in the workshop, and in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Traveling disk sharpeners for knives give a very short effect of sharpness of the cutting edge, since they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all canons it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening manually with the help of whetstones or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to precisely maintain the optimum angle, especially since it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle - different for different types of cutting tools - there are a lot of individual publications on the Internet on this subject.

This means that in order to sharpen, for example, a knife qualitatively, a device is required that would allow applying a force with the translational direction of the flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge sequentially along its entire length with a single, previously inserted tilt angle. And to ensure visual control over the formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

There are many such devices on sale. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made on its own, using materials that might be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, and if you purchase what you need, it will come out quite inexpensively. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

IllustrationA brief description of the operation
The entire design of the machine, all its parts and components will be somehow fixed on the base - the frame (frame).
For its manufacture, a profile pipe with a square section of 20 × 20 mm is well suited ...
... with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
As will be understood further, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they are based on considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, and the presence of certain materials.
From the profile pipe, a workpiece for the frame is cut with a grinder: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
In this example, the master will fit the joined sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires precise cutting, so it is best to do it with a cutting machine.
If it is not - nothing prevents to make the frame simpler, that is, to place its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, small parts will be only 90 mm, as they will stand between large ones.
This will not affect the functionality of the grinding machine - the only thing is, there will be some loss of aesthetics.
Here is such a frame after preparing the parts.
The cut edges can be slightly adjusted, deburred, and a small chamfer welded.
Then the frame is assembled, on the one hand and along short vertical joints it is welded with a continuous seam.
Seams are cleaned of slag and polished with a “grinder”.
Welded corner of the frame after stripping.
You can, of course, immediately boil it from both sides, but the master just decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs-supports.
The operation is optional - it is perfectly acceptable to install the machine with a frame on a flat surface. But with coasters, of course, more interesting.
This adjustable foot with a nut - these are easy to find in any furniture hardware store.
The nuts will be welded at the corners of the frame.
Holes are drilled at the corners, into which the nuts will be fitted before being scalded.
Nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out at all four corners of the bed.
Now, on one side of the bed (on its small side), it is required to weld the nuts where the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed.
To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, initially thin (3 ÷ 4 mm) ...
- and then - with a drill of diameters of 10 mm, the upper wall of the bed is drilled.
It is important stability, stability of the attachment of the node, that is, a few turns of thread - do not get off. Therefore, elongated M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made.
Their lower edge is preferably pre-pierced under the cylinder, so that it fits snugly into the drilled holes.
In fact, the installation of the machine requires only one such socket. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, perhaps in some cases it will be more convenient for the user to rearrange the rack to a different position. It takes no more than a couple of minutes.
After that, all the nuts are scalded.
When tacking, make sure that the nuts do not move and stand level. To do this, they can be held temporarily by a long hairpin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the bed.
In addition, this measure reliably protects the nut thread from splashing metal.
Here's what happened: on the upper side of the frame - two welded nuts under the racks ...
... from the bottom - four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in the adjustable legs.
By the way, if the master will have threaded rivets of the required diameter (M6 for supports, and M8 for the rack), then you can get by with them, that is, get away from the operation of welding nuts.
The next step is the manufacture of a shelf on which cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate.
It can be made of a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give her a slight reverse bias, so he cuts it from a corner with a shelf of 63 mm.
The length of the part is along the width of the bed, that is 130 mm.
First, the desired piece of the corner is cut off.
Then it is clamped in a vice to smoothly cut one shelf with a grinder.
This is how this platform will be welded to the bed.
After welding, the seam is carefully cleaned.
Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed on this site by a clamping plate. And for this it is necessary to prepare two holes with M8 thread.
It is advisable to arrange them wider so that, for example, it is possible to clamp between them knives from a plane and other cutting parts of a similar plan.
First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, a diameter of 6.7 mm.
After that, a thread is cut with a tap.
The next operation is the manufacture of a pressure plate.
For her, it is better to take a thick, 3 ÷ 4 mm, stainless steel. It is less prone to deformation than ordinary carbon steel.
The size plate should correspond to the dimensions of the supporting platform.
The edge, which will be turned towards the cutting edge of the tool, is ground to bevel to prevent it from being touched by an abrasive during grinding.
Next, two holes for M8 screws are drilled on the plate - strictly coinciding in axes with threaded holes in the supporting platform.
These screw holes can be modified "under the blind."
The bed is completely ready, and after stripping and degreasing it can be covered with paint from an aerosol can.
While the paint will dry, you can do other parts and details of the machine.
A steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm will be used for the rack and the working rod of the machine.
First you need to thoroughly clean it - polish with sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in his hand.
Frankly, this is not a completely safe way.
Rod after polishing.
It is divided into two segments - one 450–500 mm long, the second 250–300 mm long.
An M8 thread is cut from one end of each of the rods.
On a short bar, a threaded section with a length of approximately 20 mm is for screwing into the welded-in nut of the bed.
On a long bar - thread length 40 ÷ 50 mm. It is necessary to wind the handle.
The next step is the manufacture of clamps that will hold the abrasive block on the bar. They are made from elongated nuts M10.
First you need to identify the center of the through hole with a core, indented 12 mm from the edge.
Then, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the axis of the nut.
A quarter must be cut off from the other end of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw in two steps.
First, a transverse incision is made to the center ...
... and then longitudinal.
Such nuts must be prepared in two pieces.
M10 short locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the latches are ready.
That's what they will look like.
After that, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a whetstone is placed in the cut quarters, and this whole assembly is fixed with clamping bolts.
Everything, the rod is assembled, you can go to the next node of the machine.
On the rack should be a node that provides the highest point of support for the rod. In this case, translational movement of the rod back and forth, and the degree of freedom left-right should be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will precisely determine the angle of sharpening of the cutting edge.
This assembly will again be made on the basis of an elongated M10 nut.
To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - just like on the nuts that went to the clamps.
Then comes a rather complicated operation.
It is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut the M8 thread in it.
The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will just become the hinge.
This is how this assembly looks.
From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with which the assembly will be fixed on a vertical stand.
I must say that such a hinge in the "light version" is not the most successful, and only the availability of parts justifies it. But the working bar turns out to have a rather solid backlash, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife.
Using a ready-made fish-eye hinge can become a more perfect solution - such parts in a large assortment are presented in online stores, and their cost is not so high.
It is quite possible to do without the complicated operation of drilling a hole in the head of a bolt with subsequent threading - if you are lucky to get a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to do with a short hairpin.
But for now, we are considering the way the master suggested.
All parts are ready - you can proceed to the assembly of the machine.
Bottom legs are screwed on the support legs.
Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine is stable - at all four points.
A vertical stand is screwed in.
A hinge assembly is put on the rack and fixed at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
A pressure plate is placed on the support pad. Two screws are screwed that will fix the cutting tool in this clamp.
It remains to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
The master decided to immediately try it in work.
To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “killed” cutting edge.
The knife is placed between the support pad and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is approximately parallel to the short side of the bed.
Fixing is carried out by tightening two screws.
The working bar is inserted into the hinge.
The hinge itself is set in height in order to ensure the required sharpening angle.
The grinding process begins - first with the first, large bar. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
Then the bar can be changed to another, with a small abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
The result of the work is first visually ...
... and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge.
A loose sheet of paper is easily cut into strips.
By changing the height of the hinge assembly, in the same way you can sharpen the planer gland ...
... or even an ax blade.
The machine itself, with temporary uselessness, is easy to disassemble by removing the bar and unscrewing the rack. As such, it will take up very little space in a closet or on a shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

  • Many prefabricated models are equipped with a scale on which the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge is set. It is not difficult to come up with a similar device itself, for example, such as shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor bolted to it.

After the knife is clamped in the clamp, it is enough to attach a ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, combine the central risk of the protractor with platinum, and take the angle on the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of the angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be at an angle of 15°.

They do things differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks are made in advance, for example, “kitchen knife”, “table knife”, “chisel”, “”, etc. That is, it will be enough to choose the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the marked mark.

Another option is grades on a vertical stand. True, in this case, uniformity in the placement of the knives in the clamp is required - so that the cutting edge protrudes always at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the easiest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, signing them, for which cutting tool this corner is intended.

In short, having quick wits, it is easy to significantly simplify bringing the machine to the desired working position.

  • You can make a comment on the fastening of the bars. If they are supposed to change during sharpening, then they must have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they prepared several steel plates of the same size. Abrasive paper is glued onto the plates. Two sides are already two different grain levels. That is, you can prepare the kit for all stages of sharpening: from the rough formation of the cutting edge to its polishing.

Another interesting idea in this regard is not a plate, but a segment of a profile square pipe of 20 × 20 mm. Four sides are four different abrasives. In the course of work - just flip over with the right side ...

  • Another nuance: it does not hurt to ensure yourself and work safety. It will be very unpleasant if, with the forward movement, the hand breaks - and exactly with the fingers along the cutting edge. So here some kind of protective guard does not hurt, which you can think up to your taste.

A hand-made machine for sharpening a tool will certainly prove to be very useful in any household.

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We can say that in this article we only slightly “dug” the topic of home-made machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: whichever of the tools they would like to see with details, we will try to satisfy their applications. And even better - if some of the amateur masters share their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors are mandatory.

The manufacture of electronic home-made products gained popularity back in the last century, when semiconductor devices appeared. With their help, from old equipment it was possible to simply assemble the devices necessary for everyday life. Today, repair and collection of equipment for the house or cottage, for a car or garage can also be solved at home.

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Homemade appliances for home and garden

Every home electrician can make home-made electrical appliances for home and cottages using the power of electricity. Most fixtures are based on factory components and require only school knowledge of electricity.

Electric BBQ

Electric skewers can be either horizontal or vertical. In stores, they usually sell vertical ones, and they do an excellent job with their functions after some refinement.

To create a horizontal barbecue, you will need a heating element and a frame resembling a barbecue. You can make a heating element from a ceramic tube and a nichrome spiral wound around it. The tube is secured through an insulating material in a metal housing. To assemble the housing, drawings are required.

BBQ BBQ

An equally interesting idea is a barbecue grill with an electric drive for rotating skewers. Adding an electric motor to a regular barbecue, you can get an excellent machine that will cook kebabs offline. To organize a skewer drive, you can use a motor from the wipers, from a washing machine or any other 12 Volt. Using a pulley system and a belt or gear transmission, the rotation of the shaft is transmitted to the skewers, and the meat slowly turns over the coals.

Homemade WIFI Antenna

Such an antenna will improve the reception quality and Wi-Fi speed in your home. According to reviews, after connecting it, the signal level rises from 5 to 27 Mbps.

For the manufacture of necessary:

  • a small metal strainer or colander;
  • wi-Fi adapter (USB);
  • USB cable
  • drill;
  • epoxy resin;
  • camera tripod;
  • clamps made of plastic.

Manufacturing process:

  1. In the center of the sieve, drill a small hole (14 mm) and insert a metal pin into it to secure the adapter.
  2. We insert the connector from the USB cable into the prepared hole and fasten it with epoxy. After gluing, the USB connector should be strictly perpendicular to the sieve plane, then the device works more efficiently.
  3. Then, with the help of two ties, “ears” are made through which the cable is attached.
  4. We fix the product on a camera tripod. We drill a hole with a diameter of 12 mm in the antenna and clamp it with a nut.

Necessary materials Insert the pin into the drilled hole We glue the USB cable Fasten the cable Tripod Install the antenna using a tripod

Electric homemade for the garage

Consider a few useful homemade garage projects.

Homemade Chandelier

If your garage has poor lighting, then an impromptu chandelier will be very useful. For the manufacture of a bifurcated cartridge, a pair of corner cartridges are required, which are sold in a conventional hardware store.

Sequencing:

  1. We remove the wires from the cartridges and fasten them with a plastic screed. We get a cartridge for two lamps. It remains to connect them to the mains.
  2. To do this, use the base from the fluorescent lamp. Carefully break out the lamp, then solder the wires from our design to the contacts of the base.
  3. We isolate them well and attach the base on top of the cartridges.

The use of conventional bulbs in this design is undesirable - the cartridges can fuse from heating.

LED device

Another option for lighting can be a homemade LED lighting device.

To make it you will need:

  • old fluorescent lamp;
  • lED Strip Light;
  • connecting wires.

The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

  1. An LED strip is glued in one or more rows on the lamp housing.
  2. Connecting wires are connected and lead to the lamp switch.
  3. The assembled device is being tested.

Spot welding machine

The necessary device in the garage will be a home-made spot welding machine, the basis of which is a transformer from an old microwave. A necessary condition is that the transformer must be operational so as not to rewind all the windings.

The welder assembly process is quite simple:

  1. The transformer is dismantled.
  2. The secondary winding is carefully removed.
  3. Two shunts are removed.
  4. From a thick wire (with a diameter of at least 10 mm), a secondary winding of two to three turns is made.
  5. Electrodes for resistance welding are made from a copper rod with a diameter larger than wires.

Homemade spot welding tool

DIY do-it-yourself fishing stuff

Among the homemade products you can find many interesting ideas for use in camping conditions, as well as hunting and fishing.

Electronic alarm

An example is an electronic signaling device for fishing with a standard fishing rod or other tackle. A simple bite device can be assembled in just half an hour. For him, you will need an old keychain-squeaker and a strip of plastic 1-2 mm thick.

Buzzer assembly:

  1. The keychain is attached to the rod.
  2. A strip of plastic is glued to the fishing line and inserted between the contacts of the remote control.

Now, when biting, the fish pulls the fishing line, the plastic will fly out, the contacts will close and the keychain will work.

Winter fishing underwater camera

With a home-made underwater camera for winter fishing, you can see if there is fish under the hole. And this simplifies the fishing process.

For manufacturing you will need:

  • a small camera;
  • tight box for the camera;
  • small tv;
  • a car battery to power the camera;
  • extension;
  • inverter;
  • lead for cargo;
  • ultraviolet diodes for backlighting underwater shooting;
  • superglue, insulating tape, sealant.

Assembly process:

  1. Two holes are made in the upper part of the box. An extension cable is inserted through one. Through the second - a wire that connects the camera to the TV.
  2. In boxing, several more holes are made into which light bulbs are inserted. The wires from the bulbs are soldered into one circuit (for example, with a parallel arrangement), which is connected to a cable that provides power.
  3. The holes are sealed with glue and electrical tape for tight sealing.
  4. Melt lead and pour out of it small sticks of elongated shape. Place them at the bottom of the box.
  5. Set up the camera, connect to the cable. After that, it is carefully placed in the box so that it has a clear direction forward and horizontally and transmits a high-quality image. For stability, the camera around is covered with soft material.
  6. A torso is attached to the box (rope, belt), which will lower the camera to a depth. For convenience, you can combine it, the power cable and the connection cable between the camcorder and the TV in one core, fastened with electrical tape.
  7. Connect the camcorder's power cable to the battery and test the device.

Homemade fish bait

You can make a good bait for fishing yourself. This will be a device assembled on the basis of a simple multivibrator.

You will need:

  • a sound emitter, for example, from a children's toy;
  • wires
  • a small plastic jar, for example, from under medical tablets;
  • electronic board;
  • regulator with a plastic rod;
  • a piece of foam;
  • batteries
  • float weights;
  • volume control.

The assembly of the bait is as follows:

  1. It is necessary to solder the circuit and check it.
  2. Two wires are soldered to the sound emitter. Then they are carried inside the case and connected to the board.
  3. A regulator with a plastic rod is placed in the lid from the jar.
  4. A dense circle cut out of polystyrene is installed on top of the board, which separates the board from the battery.
  5. At the bottom of the jar weights are fixed so that the container stays on the water like a float.
  6. The regulator sets the frequency and the sound changes.

Bait Scheme - 1 The scheme of the bait - 2

Electronic homemade for car

Car enthusiasts create home-made DIY products to improve the appearance and ease of use of the car.

Electric Autosampler

For a car, a simple home-made electric probe is perfect. It can show the presence of a voltage of 12 volts in an electrical circuit. Using it, the health of the relay, as well as light bulbs and other equipment, is checked. You can make such a device from a syringe and LEDs.

Assembly Scheme:

  1. Two LEDs are soldered by opposite conclusions (plus one to minus the other and vice versa).
  2. A steel probe is connected to one of the adhesions through a resistance of 300 Ohms. To another solder is a battery contact.
  3. The design is inserted into the syringe so that the probe comes out of the needle hole. Most of the probe is insulated with a PVC tube.
  4. Four LR44 batteries are inserted into the syringe so that one of the poles is connected to the LED contact.
  5. A contact from a flexible wire with a crocodile clip is connected to the other pole of the batteries.

The video shows how to make a syringe tester. Taken by the channel ILYANOV.

Light switch

Quite simple to manufacture is a scheme for smoothly turning off lights in the passenger compartment. Suitable electronics for any car. A small board consisting of a capacitor and diodes is soldered parallel to the terminals of the cabin light. Electricity voltage drop will occur gradually and will create the effect of smoothly fading light.

Car subwoofer

To make a car subwoofer with your own hands, you must first purchase a speaker. It is necessary to build on its dimensions when calculating the size of the case.

The simplest and most successful form of subwoofer for the trunk is a truncated pyramid with a tilt like the rear seats.

LED fog lights

With your own hands, you can make car fog lights on LEDs.

For creativity you will need:

  • two ten-LEDs;
  • 2 lenses from an old projector;
  • gaskets from plastic pipes;
  • microcircuits LM317T;
  • resistors.

Assembly instructions for crafts:

  1. LEDs are mounted on pre-prepared aluminum radiators.
  2. A design is being assembled from headlight housings, lenses from projectors, gaskets and diodes on radiators.
  3. Fogs are fed through current stabilizers on LM317T microcircuits and resistors.

Car carrying

A very convenient car carrying is obtained from a computer USB-lamp. It is compact and you can connect the device to any place in the wiring of the car.

Production Scheme:

  1. Remove the contacts from the USB plug.
  2. In the plug housing we connect the lamp wires and the crocodile car clamps.
  3. For fastening in the right place (even horizontally), a magnet is placed on the plug.