Isoplat dimensions and what it is attached to. Isoplat for exterior wall cladding and interior wall decoration. Properties of ISOPLAAT boards

ISOPLAAT thermal insulation boards (Izoplat) are a universal solution for internal insulation of wooden houses. This breathable, environmentally friendly sound and heat insulation material is suitable for cladding horizontal and vertical surfaces. Plates are produced in the size of 2700x1200mm, thickness 10/12/25 mm. The surface of one side of the sheet is smooth (for finishing).

Installation of ISOPLAAT boards inside the house

When installing ISOPLAAT boards inside the house on vertical surfaces, it is imperative to install braces between the frame posts. The braces provide rigidity to the entire wall structure. Slabs are fastened to the crate or to wooden bases with staples, to concrete or brick structures - using liquid nails or glue. The adhesive is water-based (no formaldehyde).

Heat-insulating plates in 1 or 2 layers are installed on the walls and ceiling, which can also serve as a supporting structure for soft thermal insulation (ecowool). The finishing of the surfaces sheathed with ISOPLAAT boards can be any: wallpapering, painting, covering with ISOPLAAT decorative panels. It is important to use vapor-permeable materials (primers, adhesives) when preparing surfaces, otherwise the plate will lose its ability to transmit vapors.

Due to the porous structure, the boards can absorb moisture without changing the original geometric dimensions and loss of properties. Well suited for use in country houses of non-permanent residence. They do not crack and retain their properties in unheated houses, provided they are constantly ventilated.

Floor underlay device

A special underlay is placed on the floor under the ISOPLAAT laminate, which has the same characteristics as the thermal insulation board. It can be used both for repairing old and laying new floors. Evens out the surfaces of subfloors. Thickness: 4/5/7 mm. Can be used under any floor as a substrate, but more often used under floating parquet or laminate flooring.

ISOPLAAT underlay can withstand mechanical loads up to 20 t / m2 without deformation.

The substrate is laid on the sub-floor, 10 mm away from the wall. Can be applied with glue. The floor covering is arranged on top.

Installation of ISOPLAAT insulation boards using a substrate

The main advantages of the internal cladding of the house contour with ISOPLAAT (Izoplat) plates:

• Completely vapor-permeable construction, which allows the walls to "breathe" and creates a healthy indoor climate. In order for the walls to pass vapors, it is necessary to use vapor-permeable materials for the finishing and exterior cladding of the house;
• Additional sound and heat insulation walls, floors, ceilings;
• For soft insulation they serve as a supporting retaining structure;
• Align the sheathed surfaces;
• Light weight, easy to transport, carry and install;
• Absolutely environmentally friendly material... For insulation and decoration, you can also use eco-friendly materials to create completely environmentally friendly structures;

The house can be completely sheathed with environmentally friendly vapor-permeable ISOPLAAT panels, both from the outside and from the inside, while providing additional thermal insulation. Then, moisture and condensation will not accumulate in the structure of walls, ceilings and floors, while retaining the original properties of the insulation and wooden elements in the structures.

Having looked at the statistics of visits to the "Finnish house" I noticed that people are actively interested in reviews about Izoplat windshield plates and about these plates in general :)

I have something to say about this and quite a lot.

Let's start with the fact that the Estonian boards Isoplaat (Isoplat) are MDF (soft wood fiber board) also known as softboard (softboard). Such material is produced not only by Izoplat, but unfortunately, it is the only one, more or less widely represented on the market of St. Petersburg and a little less - in Moscow (at the time of this writing).

At one time, the production of MDVP began in Russia under the Softboard brand (woodway company), but not having time to really start, in 2008 the production was curtailed and, apparently, they do not plan to resume.

It's a pity. Since, in principle, MDVP material is very interesting and good.

But back to Isoplat. There is a laminate underlay, thermal insulation boards, roofing and windproof. By and large, they are all one and the same. The only difference is the size and the fact that the windproof and roofing boards are impregnated with paraffin to make them hydrophobic.

The material itself is wood wool compressed and bonded (according to official versions) to each other by a natural adhesive contained in cellulose - lignin. Therefore, the material can be called "environmentally friendly".

There is a certain slyness of the manufacturer here, because it is quite difficult to make a plate with similar characteristics without binders, only at the expense of lignin. It would be either brittle (like pellets) or would fall apart when wet and then dry. Therefore, I am 90% sure that the binder is still there, although the manufacturers carefully hide its name and its presence in general. According to indirect evidence, it may be synthetic latex. Although it does not prevent the product from being called environmentally friendly.

Of the advantages of the material - a high degree of sound insulation (although in my opinion this is not so relevant, given the small thickness), as well as high thermal insulation (coefficient of thermal conductivity at the level of modern heaters), high vapor permeability, as well as, oddly enough - its "softness"

Isoplat - a hard plate or a soft one?

Softness isoplata is a changeable thing.

if you look closely, you can see the "belly" on some sheets, like a wave

However, this "belly" partially disappears when the leaf dries up.

In addition, having monitored the information and talked with different people who were versed, I found out that the situation with the "belly" is typical for 12mm sheet. This doesn't happen with 24mm.

Example 6

Dry isoplate is perfectly cut with an ordinary knife with replaceable blades. It is very difficult to cut when wet. Rather, the slab begins to tear rather than cut. It is very difficult to cut a wet plate with a knife.

Total:

Actually, what can you say? Isoplate softness - directly depends on humidity. The wetter the material, the softer it is. But at the same time, it dries instantly and restores its original properties. In this regard, it is preferable to use a sheet of 24 mm rather than 12 mm - which, to be honest, is quite "snotty".

Does the windproof isoplate stiffen the frame?

One of the popular questions on the forums is whether isoplat gives rigidity to the frame and can it be used without jibs. There are different opinions.

I'll tell you mine - yes, you can use it without jibs. But - 12mm only for 1 storey building, if for 2 storey building, then 24mm. In general, the question of the need for jibs together with isoplate is quite specific and largely depends on the specific construction of the wall.

Why do I think so? Firstly, while I was making the roof, and the frame was standing with temporary jibs, I felt some "wobbling". After sheathing with a 12mm slab and removing temporary jibs - no longer.

Moreover, the box, without interior walls, under the roof and only with 12mm isoplaat cladding, it stood completely calm from autumn to next summer. Although there was enough snow in winter, and a couple of times there was even a gale wind.

It should also be understood that isoplate is not the only element that provides rigidity to the frame. In the future, interior decoration, exterior, etc. will be added. I call this the Arrowhead Principle. It is easy to break one arrow, but the bundle is not.

So it is with the rigidity of the frame. Perhaps only 12mm isopayment will not be enough. But in general, in conjunction with other layers of the wall, each of which contributes, the rigidity will be sufficient.

In addition, in my opinion, no matter how paradoxical it sounds, the softness of the windproof Isoplaat gives the structure rigidity.

The fact is that due to its softness - the windproof plate is very tightly pressed against the racks

More rigid slabs (OSB, DSP, etc.) will not press down like this precisely because they are stiff. Thus, it turns out that MDVP has a contact area with the frame and "adhesion" with it - much better and denser than that of more rigid plates.

Therefore, my conclusion is that in terms of rigidity, it is quite possible to use 12-24mm isoplates without jibs. But this will depend on the number of storeys of the house, the windiness of the area and other layers of the wall.

Is it possible to leave izoplat open for the winter?

Another popular question. Officially - the manufacturer writes something about 3 months. Unofficially - it happens for years, in the same Estonia. By and large, in terms of strength, nothing will happen to the stove if you leave it for the winter.

But there is an interesting nuance with which I have, let's say, exclusive experience.

I was covering the house at the end of August, when there were heavy rains, high atmospheric humidity and other delights. After a couple of weeks, I began to notice the appearance of black dots on the sheets, very unpleasantly reminiscent of "blackness" - mold that appears on boards and some slab materials. Photos were taken in winter

Curiously, I installed a couple of sheets already in November, when I mothballed the house for the winter. So on these sheets, there were an order of magnitude less black dots.

Moreover, there were strange places with stains, where there was a direct hit of moisture, and in the center of the stains - the plate was completely clean. And the points themselves are purely superficial.

As if a blurry spot. If you cut off the surface layer a little, everything is clean under it.

On the right is a stove installed in November, it is almost clean. Left - installed in August. The photo was taken in late spring, that is, more than six months later

Moreover, at the lowest point, the wall was covered with snow all winter. So when the snow melted, along with it all the "blackness" disappeared and did not appear again

the blackness was "washed away" by the pulling snow

As you can understand, this situation strained me a lot, so I made a whole investigation on this matter, with an appeal to both the manufacturer and the dealer, using all the connections and channels available to me.

Unfortunately, I never got a clear answer from anyone. There is an opinion that it turned out to be not mold, but the release of a certain paint pigment, under the influence of moisture. Because the windproof boards are specially painted (this very green color) so that they can be distinguished from ordinary boards.

This version is supported by the strange nature of the “blurring” and the fact that in the last photo you can clearly see how the dark stripe passes over the head of the nail. In addition, all blackness was exclusively on the outer, painted part of the slabs.

On the other hand, do not forget that my site is practically in a swamp and given the constant high humidity, even those things that, in theory, should not grow moldy, were often covered with mold and blackness - for example, pieces of FSF plywood.

In the end, just in case, before installing the imitation of a bar, just in case, I walked over all the plates with the FBS antiseptic

I can also say that the “colleagues” who also used windproof isoplaat on their homes and left them for a long period without external protection, nothing of the kind was noticed. Or it was, but in very small, local areas.

How to fix and cut the wind protection boards?

• Wide head nails (roofing) (40-70mm)
• Staples (35-60mm)

For 12mm slabs, the spacing is 10cm at the edges and 20cm in the center. For 24mm - 20 at the edges and 30 in the center.

I fastened with 40mm roofing nails. In principle, normal, but there are a couple of nuances.

Not all nails are equally useful - in the photo below, nails from different batches, both of which were sold as "galvanized". Here's what happened to them in six months

Good roofing nails are for some reason a very expensive position. Even if you take in bulk.

The amount of fasteners per 12mm sheet is depressing. And in terms of money and time. It took me almost 3 days to fasten all the plates, and it was mostly just dull swinging with a hammer.

Therefore, I think that the best way is to fix the plates with a pneumatic or electric staple, a 40-50mm staple with a wide "back".

In addition, I have already written that I fixed the slabs when it was wet and the slabs "swelled".

In the spring, the slab dried out, the geometry changed and the slab around the fasteners broke in several places.

If you look closely, the plate on the right sheet is broken around the fasteners

Hence the moral

1. Fastening with staples - faster and most likely more reliable
2. If you attach a "wet" sheet - do not leave a gap between the plates, it will appear itself when the sheet dries
3. Do not attach the board too close to the edge

You can cut slabs with anything. You can use a circular saw. But I didn't like it. Lots of nasty fine wood dust.

I cut with a regular construction knife with replaceable blades. 12mm sheet is cut amazingly, although there are a couple of "buts". First, the blades become dull very quickly. Secondly, a dry leaf is cut well. Wet, begins to shaggy.

Which wind protection boards to choose?

Given the very low cost, the question often arises of which plates to choose?

My opinion is that 24mm is best. They are more stable in size, they are easier to fix, they will give greater rigidity to the frame. 12mm is an "economy option" with certain disadvantages.

You can try a more labor-intensive option, but slightly cheaper than a 24 mm plate. The first layer is to start up a simple heat-shielding plate (it is cheaper), the second is a wind-proof one. This will provide material cost savings, but not much.

But you can cover the joints of the first with a second layer, getting a more reliable design.

In addition, you can splurge on roofing sheets (now called universal). They have a “thorn groove” that allows them to be fixed horizontally without being tied to the spacing of the posts and the dimensions of the slabs. Importantly, there will be less waste. The boards are laid one after the other according to the laminate principle. The last segment in the first row, placed first in the second, and so on. A thorn groove - does not give cracks at the joints.

Conclusion

What can I say in the conclusion of my "recall"? If I would have used MDVP again - definitely yes. For me, this is the ideal material for the outer skin of the frame. Only the price is a serious disadvantage.

Indeed, in normal countries, it costs 1.5-2 times cheaper than ours.

Would I be using Isoplaat if there were alternatives on the MDWP market? Here is not a fact. I came across the Finnish Leon plate - subjectively, it was less loose and more rigid than isoplate. Unfortunately, supplies to our market were local and quickly stopped.

In particular, the Steico Universal plate. What is its difference? First, it is again denser than isoplat. Secondly, Steico Universal has a smaller sheet format and an excellent “spike groove”, which allows it to be fixed like a laminate, without bothering at all with the slab joints getting onto the racks and with a minimum amount of scrap. A small sheet facilitates the installation process itself.

Installation of heat and sound insulation boards IZOPLAT on walls and ceilings

Requirements:

IZOPLAT sheets are used for finishing, leveling, improving sound insulation and thermal insulation in rooms with dry and normal humidity levels.
Installation should be carried out during the period of finishing work, i.e. after all the "wet" processes have been completed, which can significantly increase the humidity in the room. And also the electrical and plumbing wiring is done.

Work should be carried out in dry and normal humidity conditions.
Before installation, keep IZOPLAT sheets for 1-2 days in the same room in order to equalize humidity. Place the sheets vertically, place spacers for air access and avoidance of sheet curvature.
If, during installation on a frame structure made of a wooden bar (on a crate), there is a horizontal joint of two sheets, then their fastening and joining should be carried out on a horizontal bar (mortgage). Adjacent horizontal joints must be vertically offset relative to each other.
When finishing the openings of windows and doors, do not allow joining of sheets at the corners of the opening.
The ISOPLAT sheet has one side smooth, the other wavy. Installation is done with the smooth side out. Those. the smooth side of the wall insulation panel goes under the finishing.
Ceiling cladding with IZOPLAT sheets provides for mandatory fastening with nails with a step 2 times more often than for a wall. The use of wide bug type hats is recommended. For the best visco-insulating effect, multilayer cladding is recommended, for example, the gypsum board is attached close to Izoplat, additionally supporting the IZOPLAT sheet and enhancing the insulating effect. See section "Soundproofing".
Placing electrical wiring in the space of the sheathing frame should exclude the possibility of its damage by fasteners (nails, staples, etc.)
IMPORTANT! Do not prime the IZOPLAT board with an ordinary primer! It is useless and harmful!

IZOPLAT plate installation procedure on a vertical wooden frame (crate).

For the manufacture of a frame structure, a wooden bar with a cross section of at least 45x45 is used as a partition or sheathing of the base wall. The spacing of the frame posts depends on the thickness of the slab. Fasteners are made with wide head galvanized nails or stainless steel construction staples or coated. The length of the fasteners depends on the thickness of the board. Along the perimeter of the sheet, nails are nailed every 100-150 mm, inside the sheet every 300 mm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 10-20 mm.
ISOPLAT plate 12 mm thick.

The pitch of the frame racks (center-to-center distance) is 280 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 40 mm, the length of the staple is at least 32 mm.
Plate IZOPLAT 25 mm thick.

The pitch of the frame racks (center-to-center) is 600 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 70 mm, the length of the staple is at least 58 mm.
IMPORTANT! Do not prime the board with an ordinary primer!

The procedure for mounting the IZOPLAT slab to a stone (concrete, etc.) wall with glue... Frameless installation.

If the stone surface is flat enough, you can do without the lathing. Isoplat sheets are glued directly to the wall, due to which the interior space of the room is won.

Choice of glue:
- for experienced craftsmen, glue for drywall (dry mix on a gypsum or cement basis, brand of your choice) or glue for mineral wool (on a cement basis, for example, CERESIT ST 190 or BAUMIT StarKontakt).
- the simplest and most effective way is polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL, etc.).

The adhesive can be applied both to the wall and to the sheet. Depends on the instructions of the adhesive manufacturer. For example, if the base is even, the adhesive is applied to the sheet in a 50 mm wide strip using a notched trowel around the perimeter and in three rows inside the sheet. If the base is uneven, the glue is applied in a thick layer of at least 10 mm, as shown in the photo, or on the wall with plaques.
The foam is applied to the sheet along the perimeter and in three rows along its length inside the sheet. The distance between the rows of foam is approximately 30 cm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 3 cm. The foam can also be applied in a zigzag pattern, as shown in the photo. For a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm, in order to prevent subsequent swelling of the thin sheet, wait a few minutes after applying the foam to allow the foam to expand as much as possible.
Then the ISOPLAT sheet is lifted, placed on 10-12 mm spacers, pressed against the wall and leveled. The sheet should be pressed against the bonded surface for at least 15 minutes. It is recommended to additionally press the glued sheet to the wall with screws. Not less than 9 pcs. on a sheet of 3 in a row. The screws will also help fit the joints of the two sheets. After the glue dries, the screws can be removed. Fill the gaps in the joints with glue or foam to prevent the formation of cracks at the joints after filling. When using glue or foam, it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations: types of glued surfaces, adhesion time, pressure time, etc.
Before the subsequent (finishing) finishing, it is necessary to wait until the sheet is completely dry for at least 24 hours.

Attention! Usually, the outermost sheets on the pallet (applies to thin sheets with a thickness of 12 mm) may have slight surface distortions due to the high elasticity and natural properties of the wood. The sheet is easily straightened when mounted on a frame structure, or when laid on the floor or ceiling as an insulating absorbing layer in a multi-layer structure in combination with rigid sheets, for example, gypsum board. For gluing on the wall, it is recommended to slightly moisten such sheets with a hand spray, lay them on a firm, straight base or on the floor and press them down with a small weight. Leave on for 24 hours.

The procedure for mounting the IZOPLAT plate on the ceiling.

It is recommended to fasten Izoplat sheets to the ceiling on a wooden frame or metal profile. The spacing of the posts and the length of the fasteners are the same as above for mounting on a wooden frame. The step of fasteners is twice as often as on a vertical frame (wall). Fasteners: nails with a wide head or screws with a bug head. Then, a gypsum board sheet is mounted on top of the Isoplat sheet. Further finishing of the gypsum board sheet is carried out in the usual way. It is not recommended to stick the Isoplat sheet to the ceiling.

Preparation of IZOPLAT sheet for finishing.

Puttying joints is carried out using a reinforcing mesh with ordinary putty (for example, the brand does not matter, but it is advisable to choose a ready-made one in plastic buckets, since there is an optimal amount of water). Preliminarily, along the joints of the installed sheets, use sandpaper to make a recess 2-3 mm and a width of 50-60 mm. Regular putty is applied in the joint area of \u200b\u200bthe sheets for the produced width, the reinforcing tape is laid along the joint and smoothed with a spatula while removing excess putty. Do not allow the putty to be completely squeezed out from under the tape. After the first layer of putty has dried (12-24 hours), a cover layer is applied. Depressions formed by nail heads or staples must also be filled. After drying, the putty surface is sanded and the entire surface is primed with water-based paint. The smooth surface of the IZOPLAT board is used for wallpapering, painting, plastering. For best results in case of high demands on surface quality, a continuous finishing trowel is usually carried out. Then prime the surface with water-based paint. Further finishing of the putty and primed surface is carried out according to the standard technique.
Advice! A primer with water-based paint gives a white base for the wallpaper. Plus: a dark brown background will not be visible through the wallpaper. Another plus: in the case of plywood wallpaper, it will be easy to soak and remove the old wallpaper without damaging the surface of the plate. No need to re-putty.

Description of installation of IZOPLAT sheets to diagrams 1-5

1. Fasteners are used on a frame structure or a partition made of a wooden bar: galvanized nails with a wide head or staples. Distance from the edge of the slab is 10-20 mm. The step of the fastener along the edge is 100-150 mm and in the center of the sheet - 280 mm.
2. IZOPLAT sheets are nailed to a wooden surface or scraped according to a scheme similar to fasteners on a wooden frame. The distance between the rows of fasteners is 300-400 mm.
3. Fasteners for ISOPLAT sheets with a thickness of 12 and 25 mm, respectively. Nails and staples.
4. For cladding stone (concrete) walls with IZOPLAT sheets, polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL) or drywall glue (for example, the brand does not matter) is used. The main wall to be veneered must be flat and free of dust (primed).
5. The adhesive is applied to the back of the boards at a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the board. Glue points with a diameter of 50 mm are applied in the central part of the board with a pitch of approximately 280 mm.
   On a wooden wall (timber), IZOPLAT sheets are nailed with a step of 300-400 mm according to the same principle as to a wooden crate.

Installation of sheets of the Scandinavian windproof plate IZOPLAT

The Scandinavian ISOPLAAT windproof board is a sheet with a format of 2700x1200 mm. Thickness 12 or 25 mm. The edge of the sheet is straight.
IZOPLAT sheets are mounted vertically to the frame structure of the wall (for example, a frame house wall from a board 150x50 or a battens on aerated concrete from a beam 50x50 mm). In this case, one sheet covers three vertical posts. The distance between the frame posts from their centers should be 600 mm (see drawing 1).
IZOPLAT sheets are nailed with galvanized nails or professional construction staples around the entire perimeter of the sheet: vertically to the frame posts, horizontally to the strapping elements or to the mortgages. And in the center of the sheet, where auxiliary marking is applied in the center on the painted side.
The horizontal joints of two sheets that do not fall on the strapping element are reinforced with a mortgage (board / timber at least 50x50 mm), to which the edges of the slabs are nailed. The mortgage is installed on the inside of the frame structure between the vertical posts and is attached to them with metal corners. Plates are fastened using nails or staples. To facilitate installation in the center of the sheet there is a longitudinal strip.
The height of the base must be at least 40 cm.
If a ventilated facade (lining, siding, etc.) is planned as a decorative wall covering, it is recommended to install wooden blocks or battens (lathing) immediately after mounting the plates to give additional rigidity (as shown in the photo on the left, pay attention to base height).
Windshield slabs should be cladded with external cladding no later than one month after installation. To ensure moisture exchange between the slab and the casing, an air (ventilated) gap of 20-50 mm wide is created.
Mounting a 12 mm windproof plate

Use galvanized nails with a wide head at least 40 mm long or staples at least 32 mm long (see drawing 3). The distance of nailing from the edge of the slab should be at least 10 mm. Nails / staples are driven in at the edge of the board at 100 mm intervals and in the center of the board at 200 mm intervals (see drawing 4). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 25 pcs / m2.
Mount 25 mm windproof plate

Use galvanized nails with a wide head at least 70 mm long or staples at least 58 mm long (see drawing 3). The distance of the nailing from the edge of the board must be at least 10 mm. Nails / staples are driven along the edge of the slab at intervals of 100-150 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 280 mm (see drawing 5). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 15 pcs / m2.
fixing the windbreak plate how to properly fix the wind cover plate diagram of the windbreak plate

Installation of the roofing plate IZOPLAT 25 mm

For the installation of roofing slabs, the distance between the rafters should be 600-700 mm, the slope of the roof over 20 degrees. Installation begins from the bottom and left, laying the boards across the rafters (see Figure 1). After cutting to the size of the last roofing slab of the row, start the next row from the same cut off part of the slab (see drawing 2). This prevents overlapping of the end seams. Each of the slabs must cross at least two rafters. The installation procedure is shown in drawings 1-5.

Fastening the roof plate

For fastening the roofing boards, galvanized nails 70 mm long are used. The joints of end spikes, grooves, ridges and penetrations of holes must be sealed to ensure water resistance (see drawing 6). Simultaneously with the fastening of the roofing plates, spacer strips (lathing) and slabs of the roofing are also attached (see drawing 4). Do not stand on slabs in places located between the rafters.

The modern range of materials for construction allows not only to build a new house in a short time, but also to modernize the existing one by making it a warm cottage. Today, such an opportunity is provided by finishing, sound and heat insulating plates, the use of which is due to their outstanding characteristics. One of the best representatives of this group of materials is Isoplat for exterior cladding of a house, which has a number of undeniable advantages over competitors.

Isoplaat is a soft fiber board, MDVP for short. It is made of soft fibers. Before a tree is turned into a material for use, it goes through several stages of processing. First, the raw materials are scalded with steam and softened in heated water. After that, it is ground, a liquid pulp is obtained and poured onto a conveyor belt. Vacuum pumps from the wood "carpet" remove excess moisture, subject it to hot pressing and dry in chambers. The last stage - the material is cut into standard sheets from 4 to 50 mm.

Manufacturers claim that they do not use glue. Fibers in the plates connect a natural polymer - lignin ... It is found in coniferous wood and is activated under strong heat and pressure..

The main difference between Isoplaat and other brands of fiberboard is the presence of a smooth

side suitable for decoration. This makes Isoplaat the most cost-effective alternative to drywall, plywood and OSB.

In addition, Isoplaat panels have the ability to absorb moisture up to 20 percent of their own volume. In this case, the plates do not lose either technical characteristics or geometric shapes. And since the panels are made of wood fiber, they are also good and take out moisture and thus provide an optimal microclimate.

In addition, the indisputable advantages of Isoplaat include:

• high-quality sound insulation provided by the porous fiber structure of the panel;
• high heat capacity, determining the ability to control the temperature in the room;
• excellent acoustic performance, ensuring no echo;
• ease of processing - a self-tapping screw or a nail can be screwed into the plate without any problems, and the canvas itself can be easily sawed with a hacksaw, circular saw or electric.

It should be noted that Isoplaat is not without its drawbacks:

1. Due to the high absorption coefficient of water, it is impossible to store the plates in the open air - they must be covered with a dense film of polyethylene without fail.
2. In addition, the panels are not very resistant to mechanical stress, so Isoplate sheets may become unusable due to any pressure, shock or fall. In this case, the broken panel must either be cut off or completely replaced - and this is an additional financial cost.

Natural wood slabs perfectly allow steam to pass from the inside, preventing sagging insulation and eliminating the need for intensive ventilation inside the house in combination with heat loss. The entire thickness of the wind deflectors is impregnated with paraffin wax, making them waterproof. Thus, these plates prevent wall moisture, insulation shrinkage, and mold.

Isoplaat sheets are used for roof insulation as well as for windproofing building walls. In addition, there are plates for internal thermal and sound insulation of rooms. Thin sheets (7 mm) showed themselves well as a substrate for flooring (parquet, laminate).

Isoplat for interior wall decoration is also used for outdoor work (protection from wind of walls, insulation of the roof), it is processed with liquid paraffin to improve moisture-resistant properties. Placed on the wall frame before installing the exterior finish (siding, blockhouse). On the roof, Isoplaat is laid before installing a metal roof, slate, sheet metal or tile. Roofing and windproof boards have a “tenon cutter” joint edge. This increases the tightness of the connections and simplifies installation..

The panels are manufactured according to the technology, which provides for the pressing and further drying of wood waste. Do not be intimidated by the word "waste", because the base board is chips, wood chips that remain after processing the boards. This raw material is pumped into a carpet and treated with water, and then goes under a powerful press. The need for high pressure is due to the fact that plates with the correct density are formed under the press. In addition, a special substance is produced for gluing chips together.

The panel itself is a porous material that can be used for various purposes, including increasing the level of thermal or acoustic insulation.

As a rule, isoplate boards made of wood materials contain chemical components intended to improve the consumer properties of the material. One of the main advantages of Isoplaat panels is the absence of harmful or toxic mixtures, including adhesives or resins, even with an acceptable emission class. The chips are glued together by the resin that is released from the wood under the influence of the press. Thus, the material is completely safe for health, which makes it possible to use it for both exterior and interior decoration of premises.

The choice of panels of the Estonian manufacturer is very wide... It can be used in seasonal buildings (such as country houses and cottages) as well as in ordinary multi-storey apartments. In some cases, the plate is mounted together with sound-reflecting sheets, which ultimately increases the level of noise absorption, as well as the insulation of the building. Roof insulation is also often made from this material. If necessary, Isoplaat can be used as the basis for parquet or laminate.

They produce a very wide range of products, among the main types of which are:

1. Windbreak boards are the ideal insulation for outside finishing work. For their impregnation, substances such as paraffin are used, which provides a good level of moisture resistance. Attics, as well as timber frame houses, will be completely protected from various external factors if you use Isoplaat.
2. Isoplaat insulating boards have been used for installation on roof rafters under tiles. It is designed for heating the roof, muffling the sound from rain, hail and other precipitation. As in other plates from this manufacturer, paraffin is used as an impregnation to give the necessary indices in terms of moisture resistance.
3. Laminate underlay - these panels are used in the interior decoration of the apartment as an additional layer of sound insulation and noise insulation. The panels allow you to correct some of the defects of the rough floor, completely masking them. This eliminates the need for a screed, which greatly simplifies the entire flooring installation process.
4. Isoplaat insulation - also used in interior decoration. Perfectly protects the room from the cold from the street, has excellent sound insulation. A great alternative to plain drywall. Another advantage of insulation: thanks to the flat surface, on top of it, you can immediately paste the wallpaper.

The Estonian company has delighted many consumers by launching brand new products - plates called Izoteks, which are one of the Isoplaat varieties. A key feature of the product is the decorative layer, thanks to which the boards act as the final finishing material on the ceiling and walls. Isopayment for exterior cladding of a house has a very affordable price in Moscow.

External cladding with Isoplaat slabs

Isoplaat slabs for exterior cladding of a house are an excellent option that allows you to solve several problems at once: to provide additional thermal insulation and sound insulation of the house, to exclude the appearance of cold bridges and drafts. The plates are vapor-permeable, that is, they allow water vapor to pass through, which makes it possible not to retain moisture in the insulation, so the insulation does not lose its thermal insulation properties, and wooden structures do not rot and do not accumulate mold. In addition, thanks to the design without ventilation points, the dew point moves from the insulation to the outside in Isoplaat plates, which also keeps the insulation dry.

The outer cladding of old log houses with slabs is a universal solution for providing vapor-permeable thermal insulation, wood does not rot in such structures, but "breathes".

The design of the wall cladding makes it possible to exclude the installation of ventilation and wind-proof films: after laying the insulation, two Isoplaat layers are immediately installed - heat-insulating and wind-proof. Thus, we get not only the wall covering with an environmentally friendly and absolutely vapor-permeable material, but also additional thermal insulation.

Exterior walls can be plastered with thin-layer systems (but the manufacturer does not have test reports). In order for the structure to retain its respiratory properties, vapor-tight plasters must be used. Siding can also be used as an exterior decorative cladding.

Installation of slabs on the walls of the building is carried out mainly in a vertical position... That is, in the direction of the length of the slab.

The frame technology provides for the installation of frame racks in 60 cm increments. Thus, the Isoplaat plate will be located between the three posts. This provides an easy attachment and no additional cutting sheets are required.

Windproof or heatproof panels are attached to the supporting base using self-tapping screws or nails. The first method is most preferable, since damage to the plate can occur with a hammer blow. Therefore, when working with the material, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

Since Isoplaat is a soft material, the screw is less than 1 cm from the end of the blade. If fasteners are located closer to the slab, they may flake or crumble.

If the plaster is applied over Isoplaat, the slab must be fastened in 15 cm increments to each rack of the frame. But this method is rarely used, since the ventilated facade is traditionally mounted above the windshields. Therefore, additional fixing is performed using wooden blocks that are packed on top of the slabs used for the facade. In this case, the Isoplaat is enough to fix only three spaces on each post.

For fixing the panels, you can use building clamps with a length of at least 32 mm. With a thickness of 12 mm, the optimal length of nails and screws is 40 mm. For panels 25 mm thick, fasteners 70–75 mm long are used. For ease of installation, you can use homemade accessories. If you are not sure, use the strip on which every 15 cm is marked to mark the attachment points of the plates. The panel is attached to the beam of the lower frame at the place where the Isoplaat canvas should be installed..

Plates can be mounted vertically or horizontally... Parts are mounted directly on the wooden racks of the frame. The position of the posts is 0.6 m. The plates are installed with a gap of 2 mm. If the connection of the panels does not fall on the rack, then such places are strengthened by installing an additional rack or a horizontal core (the horizontal ones are fixed in vertical scrolling with inclined plates attached to the racks).

For fastening, galvanized nails with wide heads ("bugs") or professional paper clips are used.

Mounting is carried out:

• for all vertical frames of the frame, step - 10-15 cm;
• to horizontal additional elements after 10 cm;
• in accordance with the additional marking in the center of the sheets in increments of 28 cm.

The mount should be installed at a distance of ≥ 10 mm from the edges of the sheets.

Not later than one month after completion of installation work, it is recommended to use an external shell device. A ventilated gap of 20 to 50 mm is required between the skin and the windproof plate of the layers to exit the wall of water vapor.

For brick, aerated concrete or wooden walls, installation is carried out without gaps and fasteners using special glue or shaped dowels. The surface of the plates is made smooth on one side and wavy for the inside.

Finishing door and window openings is performed only from solid sheets, the presence of joints in these places is unacceptable.

As an external finish, technologies of ventilated facades (Komak Plat, block house), siding or varieties of vapor-permeable facade plasters (for example, BAUMIT) are used. It is worth noting that you need to use special joints for priming, an ordinary primer will damage the surface of the plates.

What is Isoplat wood fiber insulation, how is it made, types of material, technical characteristics, pros, cons and features of DIY installation.

Description and production of wood fiber insulation

This material is produced using the technology of drying or pressing a wood-fiber “carpet”. In this case, wood waste is used - shavings, sawdust, etc. Ground raw materials are treated with water and put into a “carpet”. After that, it is compacted under the influence of a press so that sheets are formed and lignin production begins.

If necessary, chemical substances are introduced into the fiberboard that improve certain characteristics of the material. However, gluing compositions containing harmful phenol-formaldehyde compounds are not used for bonding Isoplat plates. The fibers are joined together by natural resins that wood contains. The structure of the finished material is similar to felt.

Further, the material is dried for several hours. The finished slabs are shaped on a cutting machine. The standard size is 2700x1200 mm. The thickness can be 10, 12 and 25 millimeters. At the same time, one of the sides of the plate is smooth, which allows it to be used for finishing.

Isoplat wood fiber insulation is a completely homogeneous natural sound and heat insulator. It has sufficient strength for frame housing construction. Soft fiberboard occupy a leading position among windproof materials in the Baltic countries and Scandinavia. It is also considered an alternative to drywall.

Isoplat is used both in residential buildings and in seasonal buildings (dachas, country houses). Also, for greater efficiency, it is used in multilayer structures as a sound-absorbing soft or lining material in combination with hard sound-reflecting sheets.

A fiberboard insulation can be used to insulate roofs (usually chopped), walls, ceilings, and floors. It is also used as a substrate for laminate or parquet, which is called "floating". Isoplates are easily processed and sawn, which ensures accurate fitting of the plates.

The main varieties of Isoplat

• Roofing slabs... They are used for installation under roof tiles on rafters. With their help, you can perfectly drown out the noise of precipitation and insulate the roof. There is a milled tenon-groove on the ends. The material is additionally impregnated with paraffin for maximum non-hygroscopicity.
• Windproof plates... Suitable for sound and heat insulation of external surfaces under a ventilated facade. Impregnated with paraffin and fully waterproof. They are used, as a rule, for insulating wooden, frame houses, from a bar, as well as attics.
• Laminate flooring... This type of wood fiberboard Isoplat is used for laying under parquet and laminate as an additional layer of insulation. Products are capable of leveling out certain floor defects, and it is not necessary to use a screed or plywood.
• Heat and sound insulation boards Isoplaat... Their scope of use is the interior walls of the house, as well as ceilings. Most often, such plates are used instead of drywall sheets. They perfectly protect against the penetration of cold and extraneous noise. In addition, wallpaper can be glued directly onto them.

Specifications Isoplaat

1. Thermal conductivity... According to this indicator, the slabs are close to stone wool. The coefficient is 0.045 W / (m * K). Small thickness allows you to economically use space when insulating with this material.
2. Moisture resistance... Almost all products are treated with paraffin, which makes them non-hygroscopic and resistant to moisture. Even a small percentage of moisture absorbed by Isoplat will not impair the thermal insulation characteristics of the material. Wood will accumulate moisture, but the interfiber space, which is responsible for thermal conductivity, will remain free of water.
3. Vapor permeability... Natural insulation allows the walls to "breathe". It does not allow condensate to accumulate on the surface, removing moisture to the outside.
4. Soundproofing... The material is capable of absorbing 23 to 26 decibels of acoustic noise.
5. Density... For Izoplat, this figure is from 230 to 270 kilograms per cubic meter.
6. Compressive strength... The slabs have an indicator of about 200 kPa. This allows them to be used for insulation of coatings under a soft roof.
7. Fire resistance... Universal Isoplat products comply with all fire safety standards. Despite the fact that wood is the raw material for their production, the special structure of the material does not allow fire to spread. On the surface of the insulation when exposed to a flame, ash will form, blocking the access of oxygen to the ignition site.
8. Biological stability... During the production of boards, wood is deprived of such components as starch, sugar, which serve as food for microorganisms. Therefore, mold, rot and fungi will not appear on the insulation.
9. Environmental friendliness... In the manufacturing process of this heat insulator no harmful chemicals or glue are used. Therefore, the material will not emit volatile compounds during installation and during use.
10. Lifetime... The manufacturer sets a guarantee period for the plates - 50 years. With proper installation, Izoplat can be operated for longer.

Advantages of Isoplat plates

• Ecological purity of a heater... The raw material for Isoplat is wood. There are no binders in the composition, the fibers are intertwined in a natural way and are held together by natural resins. Therefore, it is important to use such material to insulate wooden eco-houses, as well as rooms where children and allergy sufferers live.
• Excellent vapor permeability... Isoplat is able to regulate the humidity inside the building and create a favorable microclimate.
• High thermal inertia... Plates are able to accumulate and give off heat for 14 hours. Thus, the temperature inside the building is stabilized. Temperature fluctuations will not be felt so much when lowering or raising it outside the room.
• Not subject to shrinkage or degradation... Unlike a large number of synthetic insulation materials, fiberboards do not shrink or deform over time.
• Windproof ability... It is possible to install Izoplat plates as a protection against wind. The fiber is located inside the material in layers along which air pores are randomly concentrated. Getting into the space between the fibers, the outside air loses pressure and speed.
• Filtering properties... Isoplat, due to its structure, is able to trap harmful compounds. This is especially true when using boards in structures with insulation such as expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, which can emit formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic chemicals.
• Ease of installation... To install the products, you do not need special equipment. All work can be done with your own hands. The convenient tongue-and-groove system greatly facilitates the installation process.

Disadvantages of Isoplat fiber boards

• Increased softness when exposed to moisture... If the material is exposed to water or humid air for a long time, it will become softer. However, when it dries, it will regain strength and form.
• Relatively high price... Natural materials tend to be more expensive. Izoplat is no exception. Therefore, it will cost an order of magnitude more expensive than artificial insulation.

Price and manufacturer of Isoplat boards

The price of fiberboard insulation can be different depending on its type. The average cost in Russia is as follows:

1. Isoplat heat and sound insulation plate - from 200 to 500 rubles per square meter;
2. Windproof plate Izoplat - from 290 to 1150 rubles per square;
3. Thermal insulating substrate for Isoplat laminate - from 115 to 200 rubles per square meter;
4. Facade plates Izoplat - from 1000 to 1200 rubles per square.

Brief instructions for the installation of insulation Izoplat

Of the tools you will need construction brackets or self-tapping screws with a flat head, a knife, a construction level, a hammer or a screwdriver.

Installation of Isoplaat boards can be done on a pre-installed crate or glued directly to the wall surface.

We work according to the following scheme:

• If you decide to make a crate, then its step should be from 30 to 60 centimeters, depending on the thickness of the slab.
• For fixing on concrete and brick surfaces, you can use various types of adhesives - for thermal insulation, gypsum-based, for drywall, as well as polyurethane foam.
• Apply glue to the rough surface of the product in stripes or dots along the perimeter. We press the insulation to the surface.
• Self-tapping screws or nails when fastening the plates to the crate should be flush with the surface and not protrude above the insulation.
• Seal the fasteners with putty.
• If you fixed the slabs with glue, then it is recommended to walk twice over them with glue or primer before decorative finishing (if painting is planned).

Watch the video review of Izoplat: