How to put a tile on a cement mortar. Mortar for tiles in the bathroom. For normal and elevated temperatures

As a rule, a qualified craftsman is invited to perform the tiling cladding of the bathroom or the kitchen working wall. Many factors speak in favor of this solution: the materials are now expensive, and the process of leveling the surfaces is a laborious task, requiring a sharp eye and a sure hand. The special equipment used to cut tiles costs a lot, and acquiring it for the sake of once is not particularly cost-effective. In addition, not everyone knows how to properly prepare a cement-sand mortar. This gap will help fill our article.

Ready mixes

Today in the construction markets and in specialized stores ready-made mixes of various brands are freely sold, each of which most fully corresponds to its purpose. On thick paper bags, in addition to the manufacturer’s logo, it is indicated why this material is needed. There are mixtures for outdoor work, rooms with high humidity and many other varieties of gray powdery masses, in which, as the advertisement for instant lemonades says, it remains just to add water. These materials, of course, are good, they have only one drawback, which, however, covers all their advantages. Ready cement-sand mortar will cost two times (and sometimes more) more expensive than home-made. If the owner of the house has the means to buy a branded mixture, then, as a rule, he will find money for the master. But those who decide to do everything with their own hands will prefer to save.

Main and additional ingredients

The composition of the cement-sand mortar, as the name implies, contains cement and sand. In addition to these main ingredients, it can also contain additives that change properties according to the requirements for building materials. If you do not take into account some high-tech active substances, which, according to advertising, are saturated with ready-made mixtures from leading manufacturers, then you can choose from the products available to the ordinary buyer quite effective and inexpensive additives that will increase the adhesive ability, give some elasticity and resistance to the layer, and , therefore, will provide the necessary durability, strength and durability of the entire composition. But more about this later, but for now we should dwell on the quality indicators of the main components.

Cement quality

In addition to the brand, cement is characterized by age. The fresher the main astringent, the better the result. Do not stock up on this type of building material for the future: it is hygroscopic, and therefore, having absorbed moisture, it becomes a monolith, how hard it is to break, so useless. You can also buy stale goods on the market if the seller is not honest enough, but if you just scoop up a product in a handful, then determining how old it is is not difficult. The new product is “fluffy”, it spreads between fingers so that you will not notice how the palm is empty. The stale one, on the contrary, will immediately begin to clump, so distinguishing the good from the bad is quite easy, even for an inexperienced buyer. The following calculation of the brand of cement-sand mortar is made from the initial assumption that the cement is new, but if it is still not very fresh, then you can use it, of course, but you will have to experiment a bit. And be prepared for the fact that its consumption will increase.

Sand

Best if it is river and already sifted. Otherwise, you need to take a sieve with a small cell, a shovel, and - forward. Clay inclusions are undesirable; they reduce the overall density of the cement-sand mortar, which will affect the result. The main thing to remember is that there should not be shells and pebbles, they will worsen the fit of the tile, and they will have to be picked out at the most inopportune moment. Good preparation is already half the battle, as the British say, and this statement is quite applicable to the process of preparing the second most important ingredient, sand.

Water

There are no special requirements, it can be taken from a tap, but in the case of a lake or river, you need to ensure that algae and other microorganisms are not in it. Adding moisture to the finished mixture is preferable to acting in the opposite order, because it is easier to achieve the desired consistency. The cement-sand mortar should be the same as a good housewife’s dough: not liquid (otherwise it will slip), but plastic enough to hold well on the wall waiting for tiles. Too dry is also bad - it does not stick as it should.

Available supplements

So it’s the turn to “secret additives”:

1. The first place among them is deservedly worth the good old polyvinyl acetate glue, it is also PVA. It has a wonderful quality to withstand moisture in the frozen form. In addition, the adhesive properties are greatly enhanced. A lot of it is not needed, but it is necessary to keep a couple of cans per kilogram on hand, so that for each bucket of cement there is 200 grams.
2. Detergents give the solution elasticity, which increases durability.
3. If you want to lay the tiles on the street, you should add a plasticizer with an antifreeze composition (it is sold), and it must be used according to the instructions printed on the package.

The proportion of cement and grades of cement-sand mortar

So, the main astringent, cement. It is different. In addition to the usual portal, there are also brands used to create ultra-strong layers and even plugging oil wells. They rarely happen on sale, but if somehow the future master of tile laying nevertheless gets some special cement, you should remember the general rule: the larger the mark is, the more sand is added to the solution. This must be taken into account because the high hardness of the final layer between the wall and the back of the tile does not mean better adhesion. During vibrations experienced by building structures, microcracks arise over time, and, as a result, the solidified solution is destroyed. This will not happen if the tile “sits” on a softer base. Cement-sand mortar M100 (and it is quite enough for high-quality cladding) is obtained by mixing three parts of sand and one share of cement grade 400. In this case, its volume should be a quarter of the total mass. However, beginner repairmen do not always have enough experience, they want the tile to stick faster. It is possible, but it is important not to overdo it. It is easy to calculate that a more viscous and quick-setting cement-sand mortar M150 will be obtained if two and a half buckets of sand fall on a cement bucket. Steeper kneading is not necessary.

To the cause!

No matter how good the cement-sand mortar is, if it is used incorrectly, the matter can end in a complete fiasco. How to lay tiles is a topic for another discussion, but the main causes of failure can be briefly listed right now. These include:

• poorly prepared surfaces (namely, the remnants of old paint, loose plaster, serious bumps, etc.);
• dry tile (it is necessary to pre-soak it for half an hour or more, until it no longer sizzles in the open air);
• the desire to lay the tile butt, without gaps. It is almost impossible to do it absolutely evenly, and if it succeeds, then, due to natural vibrations, the tiles will press against each other until the entire layer is left behind. To create the desired gap, special plastic “crosses” are sold, but you can do with matches as well — they are just the right thickness.

There are other mistakes made by beginning masters, but they are not so critical. However, only loafers always arrive unmistakably. Here they have something the word never comes apart! And to everyone else - good luck and determination!

Tiles finish any coatings and surfaces. Reliability, practicality, beauty are provided by the skill and skill of a specialist and the strength of the material.

The floor in the kitchen, in the corridor, in the bathroom is made with this material. He is not afraid of moisture, has the strength and resistance to damage, exposure. The originality of the drawings gives perfection to the interior.

Laying tiles

• The classic option for laying tiles;
• Ready-made compositions for styling;
• The reason why you can not lay tiles on cement mortar.

1) The classic mortar, but which the tile is laid in, is cement with the addition of a sand mixture.

2) The compositions are finished, more expensive in cost, but the adhesion quality is better, there will be no shedding of the mixture and no cracks will form. Mastic solutions can be found in the store in plastic buckets or the composition has a dry substance.

According to the instructions, a solution is prepared. Modifying and plasticizing additives are needed to increase adhesion.

3) Cement composition is used to smooth the surface base, sealing cracks and cracks, so that a perfectly smooth and smooth surface is obtained.

The cementitious composition evens the floor, but it adds thickness to the layer, the tile will lie on a solid foundation, and itself is a solid structure.

There will be a lift and strong pressure on the tile. When walking on a tiled surface, the cement layer will slip through and create gaps. The result may be delamination of the tile due to poor adhesion. Be sure to use a suitable solution, add glue for better adhesion of substances.

Compositions on which tiles are fixed to the floor

• Solutions with synthetic resins, latex resins;
• Dry mixes;
• Adding PVA glue.

1) Porcelain tile has a smooth surface and poor adhesion. Synthetic resins are added to the adhesive mixture, which increase ductility and increase the adhesion property of materials. Latex resin provides reliable performance.

It is added to the finished solution. Savings should be, but if the quality of the installation suffers, it is better to use the necessary tools.

If the base is made of cement, then a larger volume of mortar must be used than with a concrete field. Unglazed tiles are expensive, adhesion is worse, more adhesive is required. Glazed composition is more economical.

2) Dry mixes are made from a special composition with the use of the necessary substances. Great variety for species, surfaces and conditions.

Basic products for even surface planes, reinforced for larger tiles. Specific compositions for non-traditional flooring: metal, glass.

3) The solution will be very strong if you add PVA glue to it. For 10 liters of the mixture, 200 grams of glue are used. Instead of glue, soap is added in a liquid state, washing powder diluted in water. Slaked lime improves water resistance and elasticity. The EC-30 primer will enhance solidification in frost.

Mixture preparation

• The mixture is prepared according to the instructions;
• The process of laying tiles on the base.

1) The mixture is prepared according to the instructions. It is printed on the packaging. Water is not poured into the composition. To prevent lumps, you need a drill with a nozzle - a mixer to mix to a homogeneous mass.

Stir at the time of preparation and before application to the surface. Water should be at room temperature. Modifiers can change properties if the instructions for use are not followed.

The air temperature is 18-24 degrees. The mixture freezes, it needs to be prepared in batches. A master will be required to accelerate activity and a quality result.

2) The tiles do not need to be soaked; the base of the floor is not moistened using dry mixes. The surface must be clean. If cement mortar is used, if there is a risk of unsatisfactory result.

Cases of the use of sand of low quality, unsintered and not dried. Cement may be obsolete, lost quality. For heavy tiles, a low grade of cement is used, and the situation will also cause problems.

Using dirty water for a solution or marine water composition will give a fermentation, the substances will not adhere. Sand can leave lumps. An inhomogeneous solution will swell the tile.

For all the evidence presented, the client must choose what is suitable for its surface.

If a tile is being laid, then it is not necessary to use a cement mortar, it is worth adding additives to it to increase the adhesion effect.

The tile should not swell, crack and get any other deformation. Properly performed work will lead to a good result.

For what reasons do not lay tiles on a cement mortar? Write your opinion in the comments.

If repairs are underway in your house or are already ongoing, then you will certainly be faced with the question of how to lay tiles on cement. We are pleased to inform you that doing it yourself is quite possible! This will take some time and patience, but you will be pleased with the result, and you won’t have to overpay for work, disguise or remake flaws for negligent workers. So, arm yourself with everything you need - and go!

Any construction and repair work should begin with the selection of high-quality material. Therefore, you also have to soberly approach this issue. You will need the freshest cement (over the year of storage it may lose a significant portion of the bonding ability), it is better to choose, of course, a better brand, for example, from 300. Stock up with high-quality sand, coarse-grained, but clean, without fine debris and pebbles is best. If you are not sure about the cleanliness of the sand, pass it through a sieve.

Mix the cement mortar. For grades 300-400, take the ratio of 1 part cement to 5 parts of sand, for grades 500-600 a ratio of 1 to 6 is suitable. To keep the tile stronger, add about 1/25 part of the total volume of the mixture to the PVA glue solution. Do not leave the diluted solution, as it hardens quite quickly irrevocably.

Install beacon tiles on the floor that you will be leveling to make the rows neat. At the level of the beacons, pull the cord, apply cement along it. Do not apply the solution over a large area to avoid drying out during operation. The cement layer should be 5 mm thicker than the beacon tile.

Take the tile, dampen the back of it with water and set it tightly in the solution. Press the tile by gently tapping the hammer. Carefully check the shrinkage height on the cord. Having finished one row, seat it with a long bar - this will finally level the tile. Line further rows first.

In order for the masonry to look aesthetically pleasing, after the final hardening of the cement, carefully treat the seams with special grout for the tile. Today in construction stores you can find an extensive assortment of these products, you can even choose a grout in the color of your tile. In addition to the aesthetic factor, grouting will increase the strength of the masonry, as it will not allow water to soak and crumble the cement, and it is much easier to wash garbage accumulating there from grouted joints.

Congratulations, you just learned how to lay tiles on cement yourself! Now a little practice - and you will become a true professional in this matter. Good luck in the repair!

How to put a tile with your own hands? How to lay tile on the floor in cement mortar

Laying tiles on the floor using cement mortar. Cheap.

Before mass laying tiles on the floor, beacons are put up. They are also centered in the corners of the room, and if

the room is large both along the walls and along the central lines. A lighthouse is actually the same tile, only laid on a gypsum mortar, so that it can be easily removed later. The first lighthouse sets the general floor level, so it needs to be set especially carefully in the highest place. Further, using the level, the remaining lighthouses are set, strictly in the horizontal plane with the starting point (lighthouse).

The concrete base is poured with water, and covered with a sand-cement mixture. A liquidish solution forms on the floor, into which the tile will fit. A sufficient layer thickness of the resulting solution is not less than 3 mm, and in the case of irregularities, the cement-sand mixture can be added up to 30 mm. The tile itself is not lubricated with mortar before laying on the floor. The tile is placed in a row between the beacons, while it is pressed into the solution, and its position is controlled by the rule and level. After that, the beacons in the row are removed, and in their place tiles are laid on the solution. The squeezed solution is immediately removed and used elsewhere.

The laid tile is allowed to fix at least one day. After that, to fill the tile joints, a liquid solution is poured onto the floor, which fills these joints.

After 2 to 3 days, the remaining cement from the tile is washed with a rag moistened with a 3% solution of hydrochloric acid, which is washed off with water after a few minutes. Of course, this technology does not correspond to modern ideas about laying tiles on the floor. The strength, durability, and water resistance of such a tiled flooring are in doubt. But the technology of laying tiles on a cement-sand mortar immediately over large areas has its advantages - low cost and high speed of work.

Floor operation can begin no earlier than 7 days after laying the tiles.

stroy-block.com.ua

Can tiles be glued to cement?

i want to change the tiles in the kitchen, a neighbor says, I glued cement on myself with glue (pva), I looked in the store across two roads, they only offer Master cement there. Normal for this purpose? Bigserg 3 years ago Tiles can be glued to cement and all kinds of glue and adhesive compounds. For example, on liquid nails, on Bustilat glue and others. The question is price and result. On cement, tiles are usually laid on the floor, sometimes directly on a fresh screed, until it hardens. I would advise gluing the tiles to a special tile adhesive that is sold as a dry mix. In this case, you can not doubt the results and choose the glue according to the necessary parameters - for external, internal work, frost-resistant glue, etc. 3 years ago Well, if you don’t want to use ordinary glue for tiles, you can mix cement with sand and PVA glue, or Bustilat diluted with water, or with oil paint instead of adding water. All these additives enhance the adhesion of the tile, the tile will hold better than if you just lay it on a cement mortar. But it’s better to do it if you got one of the components of this explosive mixture for free, i.e. otherwise, the cost of such a homemade glue will be much higher than the cost of the purchased glue. 3 years ago In fact, cement is not glued to tiles, but laid. And to be precise, it’s not cement, but cement mortar. This is a well-known mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. One part of cement and three sand. Well and then water and mixing. There is only one very serious moment here that is known to any tiler master. If suddenly you ever need to remove the tile, then cleaning the wall or the removed tile is hellish work - the cement mortar is very poorly cleaned from the applied surfaces. And for example, it’s fashionable to clean the tile, for example, with a simple spatula, and if soaked, it will generally be removed as fresh. Of course, how and what to lay the tiles for is up to you. But personally, I would consider a cement mortar only if there is nothing more at all. But there are a lot of options for what you can put or stick tiles on! more than a year ago Most likely your neighbor did not mean cement, but cement mortar. It differs in that cement is a finely bonded fraction that pulls together other substances with each other, but cannot connect well with each other. Therefore, definitely nothing will turn out on cement, it will just crumble then and the tile will fly off. But now let's decide between cement mortar and tile adhesive, which is better and can be used: Cement mortar Composition of a mixture of at least cement, sand and water in certain proportions. Depending on the brand of cement, the quality of sand and the amount of water, solid materials with different physical properties are obtained after the evaporation of water. You can get a material that is difficult to drill with a drill. But for this it is necessary not only in the right proportions to mix all the substances in the solution, but also to select these substances according to certain quality standards. Such a solution is best bonded into a monolithic mass and adheres worse to an already finished surface. Tile adhesive In principle, this is still the same cement mortar, but with certain additives that increase the adhesion properties of this composition to other materials. Here’s the advice: if you can independently prepare a high-quality cement mortar and add PVA there (as advised since the days of the USSR), this mortar will fundamentally be no different from tile adhesive. Look not at the name of the cement, but at its brand, preferably 500 or 400. add to favorites link thank Kim Jong-un more than a year ago No, only cement is not allowed. Cement is part of the whole (the whole, in this case, is a cement-sand mortar), that is, a binder (binder). Cement needs sand and this is a minimum. Pure cement was not used even during the Union during the laying of tiles (then there was no tile glue). The Soviet version of "glue" is cement + seeded sand + PVA glue. The option is quite working, but we must remember the following points: When working with such a solution, the tile must be presoaked beforehand (when working on tile glue, the tile is not soaked). No matter how you sift the sand, you cannot reach the fractions of tile adhesive, that is, you must be prepared for a larger layer under the tile. The quality of the lining on such a solution and on tile glue is different, on the glue higher and much. If you completely switch to the "ancient" technology, then on some walls (for example, gypsum), along the masonry, you also need to wet the walls constantly. All this technology is in the past, the savings are not significant, but there is a lot of “fuss”, and the quality is lame. 2 years ago Tiles laid on cement diluted with water will definitely not last long for a simple reason: cement without a fine filler will not emit enough cement milk, which is absorbed by the tile and serves as a binder between it and the base. Modern tile has, for the most part, low water absorption (less than 5%), which means that it is kept on the base due to glue with good adhesion, which cement cannot boast of. Previously, Sovdepovskaya tiles were laid on a cement-sand mortar, but that tile had a VERY large water absorption - it even had to be soaked in water before laying. Even on mixed cement with PVA without fine filler, you will be tormented to glue the tiles, since the base and tile should be perfectly even, because you will not make a decent layer under the tile - a thick composition will instantly harden, and the liquid will float from under the tile. Without additional plasticizers and retarders, a plastic solution will not work. Unless it is only possible to lay it on the floor in a liquid mortar, but floor tiles, as you know, have even less water absorption than wall tiles. Previously, when there were no dry glue mixtures yet, they made “hardener” - cement, PVA, paint and chalk (as a filler) were mixed. The tile laid on such a "glue" kept excellent, even now it is sometimes necessary to knock it down with difficulty when repairing in old houses. 2 years ago You can stick tiles on cement. It all depends on the solution on which you will lay the tile. Cement is better to take grades 300-400 to 5 parts of sand (sand is better coarse, without debris and pebbles (better to sift through a sieve)), if cement grades 500-600, then the ratio should be 1: 6. Do not forget to add 1/25 of the total volume of PVA glue and hurry up - the solution quickly hardens ... irrevocably. add to favorites link thank Do you know the answer?

See also:

www.remotvet.ru

How to lay tile on cement?

If repairs are underway in your house or are already ongoing, then you will certainly be faced with the question of how to lay tiles on cement. We are pleased to inform you that doing it yourself is quite possible! This will take some time and patience, but you will be pleased with the result, and you won’t have to overpay for work, disguise or remake flaws for negligent workers. So, arm yourself with everything you need - and go!

Any construction and repair work should begin with the selection of high-quality material. Therefore, you also have to soberly approach this issue. You will need the freshest cement (over the year of storage it may lose a significant portion of the bonding ability), it is better to choose, of course, a better brand, for example, from 300. Stock up with high-quality sand, coarse-grained, but clean, without fine debris and pebbles is best. If you are not sure about the cleanliness of the sand, pass it through a sieve.

Mix the cement mortar. For grades 300-400, take the ratio of 1 part cement to 5 parts of sand, for grades 500-600 a ratio of 1 to 6 is suitable. To keep the tile stronger, add about 1/25 part of the total volume of the mixture to the PVA glue solution. Do not leave the diluted solution, as it hardens quite quickly irrevocably.

Install beacon tiles on the floor that you will be leveling to make the rows neat. At the level of the beacons, pull the cord, apply cement along it. Do not apply the solution over a large area to avoid drying out during operation. The cement layer should be 5 mm thicker than the beacon tile.

Take the tile, dampen the back of it with water and set it tightly in the solution. Press the tile by gently tapping the hammer. Carefully check the shrinkage height on the cord. Having finished one row, seat it with a long bar - this will finally level the tile. Line further rows first.

In order for the masonry to look aesthetically pleasing, after the final hardening of the cement, carefully treat the seams with special grout for the tile. Today in construction stores you can find an extensive assortment of these products, you can even choose a grout in the color of your tile. In addition to the aesthetic factor, grouting will increase the strength of the masonry, as it will not allow water to soak and crumble the cement, and it is much easier to wash garbage accumulating there from grouted joints.

Congratulations, you just learned how to lay tiles on cement yourself! Now a little practice - and you will become a true professional in this matter. Good luck in the repair!

uznay-kak.ru

Laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar. \u003e%

Everything that will be discussed below does not call for a return to technology 30 years ago. This knowledge is necessary for understanding based longevity in facing processes.

To begin with, two examples of how a tile is held on a cement mortar, with the right technology.

The first case is a tile on the walls of a bathhouse built 50 years ago. In all cases, the cladding should have crumbled immediately after the bath complex was closed. Wet walls, wet tiles in an unheated room, plus frost, etc. ...

The second case is the reconstruction of a pool built 25 years ago. The conditions for tiled cladding are also not so hot:

And then, in continuation of the topic, cutting photographs where the structures (sculptures) stood, uncovered, for several centuries. On the eaves of the temple, without ebb, snow accumulated every winter, and melted in the spring. And despite these conditions, there is no sign of destruction.

So, there was an effective technology, without modern mixtures and primers, which made it possible to achieve such results. So it's not about mixtures?

Preservation of structures.

In addition to ceramic tiles, earlier, on cement mortar, marble was lined. Many facades, with such a finish, have survived today (it is 30-40 years old). The technology is simple. Marble slabs were installed at a distance of 1-2 cm from the wall. Fastened with a temporary support and poured into the slot liquid cement mortar. In a ratio of 1: 2.

This technology is still used in wall cladding with natural stone, outside the building.

What important points should be noted:

• Natural stone (including marble) is a porous material.
• The solution has a high grade. No less than modern adhesive mixtures.
• The solution is liquid. The surface of the wall and stone is not wetted by water and the solution penetrates as much as possible into the pores of the wall and stone, without creating a dry film at the border of materials.

Technology of laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar.

The technology of cladding on cement mortar is based on the above properties.

In the case of floor tiles, a freshly laid thick screed is poured with liquid cement milk to create a contact layer. Tiles, with this technology, do not need to be wetted. Floor ceramics has a dense structure, with low water absorption. The moisture of the liquid solution is sufficient to create a reliable contact.

And when facing the walls - the tile is soaked for 5-8 seconds in water. This is necessary for two reasons:

• The solution is prepared convenient for styling, that is, more thick. Under such conditions, moisture is insufficient and a layer of dry mix occurs, at the tile – mortar boundary.
• Wall tiles have a large water absorption, more than 3%. Such a surface absorbs moisture. Cement milk on such a surface could help. But it’s hard to put it into practice. Therefore, they compromise, with partial soaking. A longer soak also gives a negative result. Pores in ceramics saturated with water stop drawing the solution.

The correct solution (in density) is clear in the next video. In the same place, one can notice a system of three lines - two vertical and one horizontal. Fishing lines allow you to make cladding in one vertical plane.

The only thing is the tile is dry (as far as you can understand from watching the video). With this approach, it will fall away, with time, with a clean reverse side.

Is it always possible to lay tiles on cement?

Based on the properties on which the technology is built, porcelain stoneware is not suitable for such a case. It has the lowest water absorption. Adhesion occurs on the surface, due to the ribbed back surface, without penetration into the pores.

Indoors, such strength may be enough, but street temperature drops will undermine the tiles:

There is an example of laying terracotta tiles on a mortar (street). And you do not need to consider those masters as idiots. They have their own, proven technology, confirmed by examples. If you carefully understand their actions, then they fit into the above rules.

On a fresh screed, poured the day before (yesterday), they are laying terracotta tiles. This material has good porosity. Laying lead to the liquid layer of cement mortar. In appearance - one cement. Work is being done in Cambodia or Vietnam. The temperature is positive all year round:

The advantages of laying ceramic tiles in a solution.

1. Cheapness. No costs for adhesive mixtures, primer.
2. No need to level the plane with plaster. The materials that are needed for the leveling layer are used in the cladding.
3. The speed of facing the mortar is lower than with mixtures. But taking into account the whole process (starting from plastering and technological breaks), it’s faster.

If desired, crosses can be used, followed by filling the joints with grout. So they did at the time of the first European-quality repairs.

The presence of a laser plane builder simplifies the installation of vertical lines. The laser allows you to set the beam at a distance of 8 mm from the wall. You can do without a system of scaffolds by installing the device on the first row of cladding, in a place where there is still no tile. And the lining to lead along the beam. It’s hard to say how convenient this is. A ray, even green, hits the eyes.

Installing a system of scaffolds for laying wall tiles in a solution.

101ohibka.ru

cement laying technology

To cover the walls in rooms with increased humidity use ceramic tiles - tiles. This beautiful and durable material is used not only to protect the walls of the room from moisture, but also to decorate the kitchen and bathroom. Is it possible to put tiles with my own hands in the shortest possible time? How to do this, observing during work all the rules for laying tiles on the wall? To answer these questions, we consider the technology for carrying out such work and the possibility of reducing the time for its implementation.

If you have not previously been engaged in facing, it is better to lay the tiles in a horizontal order.

The first stage is the preparation process

Start with the purchase of tiles, tools, glue (mastic) or cement. Ceramic tiles of different sizes and colors can be purchased at the construction market or in a store. When choosing glue, one should be guided by the following considerations:

• if the tile is laid on a wall with a flat surface, then glue can be used;
• with cracks and irregularities on the wall tiled with ceramic tiles, it is desirable to use a cement mortar;
• you can use mastics for sticker tiles, but we must take into account that they are usually made using rubber components and therefore do not withstand high temperatures.

Given all of the above, to reduce costs, it is best to use adhesive cement. It consists of already mixed parts of both components and is easy to use even for a beginner. True, its cost is quite high - 2-3 times more than that of cement.

You will also need to purchase plastic crosses - they are placed in the seams between the tiles. You will also need a mixture for grouting.

For high-quality and quick sticker ceramic tiles, you need to prepare the surface of the walls.

For concrete and brick walls, preparation consists in leveling the surface using the following technology:

• level and plumb check the horizontal wall at several points - at the corners and in its middle part; the discrepancy should not exceed 3-4 mm;
• the pair of walls with the ceiling is checked with a metal corner - deviations are permissible within 2-3 mm;
• with large irregularities and cracks on the walls they are leveled with a cement mortar;
• after drying, the influx is removed and the surface of the wall is cleaned with a sandpaper.

If the surface pasted by a tile is wooden, then it must be carefully prepared:

The optimal size of the crosses is 4-5 mm.

• the wall is covered with roofing material;
• a metal mesh with cells 1 X 1 cm is fixed on it so that the distance from it to the wall is 1-1.5 cm;
• cement mortar is applied to the surface and carefully leveled;
• on a still wet coating, a notch is applied with a sharp spatula to create conditions for a good connection of the wall with ceramic tiles;
• after 6 days, the coating is ready for further work; at the same time, do not forget to moisten the surface of the wall 3 times a day, otherwise cracks will go along it when completely dry.

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Some working tricks

Before laying on the walls, place the tiles in water for 9 hours. This is done to impregnate the tile and its subsequent strong connection with the adhesive solution. To check the quality of the tile itself, use the following method:

• soaked several ceramic tiles from the purchased batch;
• they are laid on the wall with cement mortar;
• they wait two days, and if the tiles do not fall off the wall and spots do not appear on their surface or they do not crack, you can soak the entire batch of tiles purchased.

Back to the table of contents

Technology of laying ceramic tiles on cement mortar

After leveling the walls, they begin the main work:

• several tiles are fixed on the vertical surface to be glued with cement mortar - these are the so-called beacons, according to which the rest of the tiles are laid out;
• if the wall is small, then usually there are enough four beacons installed in the corners of the wall;
• the very process of laying such signs is as follows: fix one beacon and, using a plumb line and level, fix the second tile horizontally next; install lighthouses in other corners;
• wooden slats are strengthened on each side of the wall (their dimensions: length 2-2.5 m, cross-section 4 X 1 cm) - they serve to fix the horizontal cord, which is used to indicate the level of laying of a number of ceramic tiles;
• to control the width of the seam between the tiles, plastic crosses are used, at the end of the work they are removed;
• if the tile should be laid before the floor, under the first row of tiles reinforce the rail with a thickness equal to the height of the future floor;
• the solution is placed on the tile with a spatula or in the form of a pyramid, or glue in the form of balls is applied to the corners and the middle of the tile;
• the tile is pressed against the wall so that the solution occupies the entire space between it and the surface is removed with the help of a trowel;
• after the wall is completely covered with tiles and the mortar dries, the seams are wiped with a special mastic, matched to the color of the tiles and a mop is wiped with a dry rag;
• to go to adjacent surfaces, plastic squares are used that are installed in the corners of the walls, from which they continue to install whole tiles on the next wall;
• if you still have to cut the plates, then this is carried out using a special manual machine for cutting tile or use a glass cutter or a metal pencil with a winning tip.

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Ceramic tile trim

To correctly perform such an operation, you must adhere to the following rules:

Tiles cutting methods: a - marking with a surface gage; b - incision of the glaze with a cutter; c, d - breaking tiles by an incision on a bar and tile breaker.

• a cut line is drawn on the plate;
• strongly pressing with a glass cutter or a pencil with a victorious tip, draw along the intended line and make an incision;
• they take the tiles in their hands and break the tile with a sharp blow to the edge of the table;
• if the strip is narrow, then use pliers, breaking off the material along the cut line;
• the use of a special machine facilitates this work, and if you need to lay a significant amount of tile, then it is better not to skimp on such a tool;
• when cutting, two methods are used - for symmetrical and asymmetric laying of tiles; in the first, only those tiles that are closer to the corners are cut, and in the second, they are cut in only one place;
• with the diagonal method of laying plates, only that tile is cut that is adjacent to the corners of the wall itself, but with such a modification of gluing the surface, a lot of waste is obtained.

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The way of laying tiles using special mastic

When using this adhesive mass instead of cement, the tiles are laid according to the above technology with the difference that:

• when checking the evenness of the wall with a plumb line, the discrepancy should be no more than 1-1.5 mm;
• the surface is carefully cleaned from dirt, stains of paint and grease;
• the wall cladding should start from the bottom row - an even wooden lath of small thickness is installed on the floor, which allows laying the row strictly horizontally;
• before the tile sticker, the wall is covered with a 2-mm layer of mastic, and then with a damp cloth it is rubbed on the surface;
• on the reverse side of the tile with a brush, apply the same layer of mastic and press it against the wall, tapping with a small bar for proper upsetting;
• so that the mastic does not move down, small wooden wedges must be knocked down under the first row;
• thus, tiled over the entire wall.

This article will describe the process of laying the wall ceramic tiles with your own hands. The installation itself will require accuracy and accuracy from you, since this will directly depend on how smooth your tile surface will turn out.

Materials

Laying ceramic tiles on the walls using special adhesives, mastics or cement mortar.

If the surface on which the ceramic tile is laid is flat, it is best to use a cement mortar or glue. The most popular mixes among domestic consumers are ready-made mixtures: “Adhesive-sealant”, “Bustilat”, “PVA”, “PSB” and “Gumilaks” mastics, as well as other adhesives oriented on laying ceramic tiles on walls painted with oil paint, plastered, brick, concrete and wood.

Tile mastics are usually made from rubber and rubber. Although it’s easier to work with them, the life of the tile attached to the wall with their help is short. Especially mastics can not withstand elevated temperatures.

Often, home craftsmen prefer to make mastic for laying wall tiles on their own. To do this, mix 3-4 parts of dry cement and 1 part of dry casein glue. A little more cement is added to the prepared liquid glue, lumps are broken and filtered through a thick sieve. The working capabilities of homemade mastic are stored for two days after cooking.

There is another recipe for making casein mastic. To do this, use 1 part (weight) of casein powder, 2 parts of lime (“fluff”), 2 parts of water and 0.1 part of sodium fluoride, which acts as an antiseptic additive.

But the most reliable material for laying ceramic tiles on the walls today is still cement mortar. Moreover, the tile of all varieties and almost all types of surfaces lays on it equally well. A cement mortar is prepared from a ratio of 4 parts of sand to 1 part of dry cement.

Styling preparation

What set of tools is needed in order to lay the tiles with your own hands? First of all, we need a spatula for plastering and a ruler (or a cross with divisions in millimeters). You will also need a glass cutter, a chisel and a hammer (for cutting and chopping tiles). A spatula, a level, a weight and a rule are extremely necessary to monitor the monotony of tile laying.

The technology of laying ceramic tiles provides for preliminary preparation of the surface for work. Brick and concrete surfaces are prepared quite simply. The wooden wall needs serious and thorough preparation. Roofing material is glued onto it, on which, in turn, a metal mesh with cells ranging from 10x10 mm to 30x30 mm is fixed. The grid should be fixed so 10-15 mm from the wall.

Next, cement mortar is applied to the wall and thoroughly leveled. In order for the tile to wall adhesion to be sufficient, notches in a chaotic order and direction are applied to the wet coating. After 5 days, with three times daily wetting, the coating is ready for use.

Styling methods

Before putting the tile, it is immersed in water for 8-10 hours. The tile is abundantly saturated with moisture, which has a positive effect on adhesion to mastic or cement mortar. It often happens that the technology was violated during the production of tiles, as a result of which spots appear under the enamel on the tile.

To check the reputation of the manufacturer, several tiles after soaking are dried and placed on the solution on the wall. If even after 2-3 days the tile coating remains unchanged, then the entire batch may be soaked. Otherwise, the tile should not be left in the water, but rather limit it to wet wiping before laying on the solution.

We put ceramic tiles on cement mortar

The technology of laying ceramic tiles includes pre-hanging the walls before work using a plumb line. Next, it is necessary to plant several control tiles (“beacons”) on the solution, which will determine a single level of the lined surface. For a small surface area, 4 “beacons” located in the corners are quite enough.

First they put one “beacon”, and then, applying the rule and level, they lay the second tile horizontally. By the same principle, the remaining lighthouses are fitted. Do not forget to observe a single uniform solution thickness of 10-15 mm. With a significant surface area, the lighthouses are placed at a distance of at least 0.5 m from each other.

Then, on each side of the wall, rails are installed, to which a horizontal cord will be attached when laying the tiles. It is under this cord that each tile will be installed. Reiki are bars of wood, the length of which is about 2 m, and a cross section of 40x40 mm. At the last stage of the facing work, the slats are removed, and the place on which they stood is filled with tiles. Control the volume of the mortar under the tile, as the tile is placed only on the gap completely between the tile and the base, completely filled with mortar.

The width of each seam is controlled using plastic crosses or wedges, which are removed at the end of the work. The thickness of the crosses is from 1 to 5 mm.

If the tile is laid before the floor covering is laid, then it is necessary to put a wooden lath with a thickness equal to the future level of the new floor under the first row of tiles.

In accordance with the technology of laying tiles, the solution is placed on the tile in the form of a pyramid with a truncated top. After that, the tile is pressed against the wall. Attention: do not forget to make sure that the solution under the tile fills the entire space! Excess mortar coming out along the edges of the tile is removed with a trowel.

After hardening the mortar and checking the adhesion of the tiles to the base, thoroughly clean the entire interspace and fill it with cement mortar (cement and sand 1: 1) or one of the special grouts designed to fill the joints and produced in different colors. All excess is also removed, but with a damp cloth.

We put ceramic tiles on the mastic

By analogy with the method of laying ceramic tiles on a cement mortar, ceramic tiles are laid on a special mastic. The tile is placed under the stretched cord horizontally in a row.

First, the evenness of the wall is checked. In this case, the deflection of the plumb line should be no more than 1.5 mm. The base is cleaned of stains of dirt and grease. The technology of laying tiles means starting to wall cladding from the bottom row. Since the floor is not always smooth, a wooden lath of a certain thickness is installed under the bottom row, so that the tiles in the first row are laid strictly horizontally.

The wall is pre-coated with a 1-2 mm layer of mastic, and then rubbed with a damp cloth or a brush on the back of the tile and apply the same layer of mastic on it. Further, the tile is firmly pressed against the wall surface and tapped with a bar intended for upsetting. In order for the mastic not to go down, wedges are knocked out under the first row.

Cutting tiles and laying them on the wall

Since laying tiles is not always possible with whole units, sooner or later it will have to be cut. To properly trim the tiles, first draw a cut line, after which a glass cutter is drawn along it, strongly pressing the tool with your hand. The tile cut by the glass cutter is taken in both hands and breaks off with a sharp movement along the cut line on the edge of the table. Narrow tile stripes can be broken off along the notch line with pliers. There is even a special tool, which is a symbiosis of pliers and a glass cutter (manual tile), using which you can greatly simplify the operation of cutting tiles. The price of such a device is affordable to any consumer and will be justified even with a single use.

Placing tiles on the wall can be done seam to seam, in a run and diagonally:

• the seam-to-seam option is both symmetrical and non-symmetrical. With a symmetrical installation, one tile is placed in the middle of the first lower row, and from it is facing to the right and left. In this case, it will only be necessary to trim the tiles that are joined with the corners. The asymmetric version is characterized in that the first tile is placed in one of the lower corners, and a row is drawn horizontally from it to the opposite corner. In this case, it will be necessary to trim the tile in only one of the corners. The asymmetric method gives a minimum of waste;
• placing the tile on the wall "in a run-up" allows you to trim only those tiles that are adjacent to the wall corner;
• the diagonal placement of the tile is considered the most time-consuming process, since it is necessary to lay ceramic tiles for a reason, but cutting it off from every corner of the wall, as well as in the top and bottom row.

Rules for laying tiles on the floor

Putting the tiles on the floor with your own hands is quite simple. First, a cement mortar is prepared, in which more sand is added than when laying tiles on the walls. The ratio is 5-6 parts of sand per one part of dry cement. It is easiest to lay ceramic floor tiles on a concrete floor, since concrete does not need any preliminary preparation. The surface is moistened, and through a thick sieve, a layer of pure cement 3 mm thick is sown on top. When cement absorbs water from the surface of the concrete floor and turns into a dough-like state, tiles can be laid on it. The tile itself does not need to be applied with a solution.

Along with pure cement, you can apply a solution mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with sand. The thickness of the applied layer should also be about 3 mm. In the case of a very embossed and uneven screed, the mortar layer can reach 15 mm. With the small size of the room (up to 10 sq. M), “beacons” are laid on the plaster in the corners of the surface to be coated. First, one of the tiles is laid, and then, in accordance with the level measurement, the second tile is horizontally laid. By the same principle, the remaining lighthouses are adjusted. As soon as the beacons are in place, we put the rest of the tile, not forgetting to check the accuracy of the laying level and rule. To tile up to the desired level, you can use the handle of the spatula. After laying the first row of tiles, the beacons are removed, the place under them is cleaned of gypsum mortar and filled with tiles, which sit already on a permanent cement mortar.

How to lay the tiles on the floor - we learned, and now consider the final stage of work.

Final stage of work

All cement mortar that has appeared on the surface of the tile should be removed. After 2-3 days, it is necessary to prepare cement milk or grout, which will fill all the cavity cavities between the tiles. After another 1-2 days, the floor surface is repeatedly wiped with a damp cloth, completely removing traces of cement from the tile. At the same time, cement remains only in the joints. If it is problematic to remove the cement mortar from the tile surface, a 3% solution of hydrochloric acid is applied to the tile, which should be washed off with water after a few minutes. The floor will be ready for use in 1 week.

Video on installing tiles on the wall