How to make a hoist into the garage with your own hands, materials and tools. DIY winch - simple manufacturing methods DIY handmade hoist

A winch is one of the oldest devices that facilitate the movement of weights, invented by man much earlier than he knew the laws of physics. The principle of operation of the winch is based on the rule of the lever: applying little effort to the handle, you can move and lift rather heavy objects. Winches and hoists are widely used in the household for raising building materials, dragging goods, and even for plowing the land. Manual or electric winches are also indispensable for lovers of off-road driving.

Buy a winch or do it yourself? Which winch design is better? The answers to these questions depend on how often you intend to use it, what loads to move. Manual winches require force, but are not dependent on the availability of electricity. An electric winch can carry loads with a lot of weight without any effort on your part, but it needs to be connected to a network or battery. Below are the designs of several winches, which you can do yourself, which winch to choose is up to you.

Winch from a cable and a piece of pipe

A variant of the simplest winch, which can be made literally from improvised materials and in a few minutes, is popular with motorists. This design is a cable, rigidly fixed to a piece of pipe worn on an axis. The axis is driven into the ground or fixed in another way. Any lever is shoved under the lower loop of the cable: a shovel from a shovel, a pipe, a solid pole. By turning the lever so that the cable wraps around the pipe, you can move a fairly heavy object, such as a stuck car. This device cannot be called a full-fledged winch, but it performs its functions.

To manual winches include any device that allows you to move goods and having a manual drive. The most common drum type winches are: a cable is wound around the coil, and the coil is rotated using the handle through a gear transmission: a worm gear or a system of sprockets of different sizes. The larger the gear ratio, the less force is required to apply to the handle.

For effective operation, the hand winch must be rigidly fixed to a fixed object, for this purpose mounting holes are made on the winch frame. The handle is connected to a shaft on which a small sprocket is rigidly fixed. The coil is rigidly connected to a large sprocket, which has traction with a small one. The cable is attached at one end to the coil, a carabiner or hook is attached to the second end.

DIY manual or electric winch

If you have the skills to work with the welding machine, you can make a winch yourself from improvised materials.

You will need:

A pipe of rectangular cross section for the implementation of the frame;
A pipe or a finished shaft for a drum;
Sheet metal for drum discs, thickness 3 mm;
Studs with thread M10-M12 24 cm long - 6 pieces, nuts;
Tube with a diameter of Ø14 - 6 identical segments of 20 cm;
Big and small sprockets and chain;
Hubs for mounting the drum on the shaft and for mounting the shaft to the frame;
The lever for the manual drive, the gasoline or electric engine working from a network ~ 220 V or the car battery;
Cable of the required length with a carbine at the end;
Welding machine and electrodes;
Grinder with a cutting and grinding disc;
Paint and primer for metal;

Set of wrenches.

Winch manufacturing technology:

According to the drawing, a pipe of rectangular cross section 20x20 mm for the frame is cut with a grinder. All joints made perpendicularly are obtained by cutting blanks at an angle of 45 degrees.
Lay out blanks on a flat surface. The winch frame is welded using a welding machine pointwise at the junction of the workpieces. Check the perpendicularity of the corners and the conformity of the dimensions, after which the seams are completely boiled. A sheet metal plate is welded with longitudinal grooves for mounting the drive motor. Scale and burrs are removed by the grinding wheel of the grinder.
Sand the frame, cover it with a primer for metal, and after drying - paint or enamel in two layers.
Proceed to the manufacture of the drum. Two circles of the same diameter are cut out of sheet metal — about 30 cm. In the center of each circle, a hole is drilled along the shaft diameter, and six holes are also made at a distance of 7-8 cm from the center. Holes are drilled for attaching the hubs - 4 on each disk. Fasten the hub to the bolted connection. They fix the drum disks with the help of studs: each stud is fixed in one disc, put a Ø14 tube on it, then put the second disc on the studs and tighten on the nuts and locknuts.
The drum is mounted on a shaft. The shaft can be made of a metal pipe of suitable diameter or use the finished shaft of high-strength steel from any mechanism. A large asterisk is fixed on the shaft on the outside of the drum - you can use the asterisk from the motorcycle gearbox, for example. Hubs are mounted on the protruding parts of the shaft to secure the drum to the frame.
Install the drum with the shaft on the frame, fixing them with external hubs and bolts. An electric or gasoline engine with a small asterisk rigidly fixed to the output shaft is installed on the site. Put on the chain and adjust its tension, moving the electric motor across the site in rectangular mounting grooves to the optimal position. The chain should not sag, but too much tension is undesirable - the wear of the sprockets will increase, and the chain may break. You can check the chain tension by twisting the drum with your hands - it should not restrain the rotation of the drum when unwinding the cable.
A cable is wrapped around the drum, securing its end to the shaft. The second end of the cable is equipped with a durable carabiner. For ease of movement, the winch is fixed to the frame with a pair of wheels using a shank.
The shank on the opposite side is used to attach the winch to the vehicle. In this case, it is recommended to close the drum with a protective casing, which prevents the ingress of dirt and precipitation onto the cable.
If the drive is planned to be universal, then on the outside of the shaft it is possible to provide for the mounting of the handle. In this case, in the absence of fuel or electricity, it will be possible to use the winch manually.

The presented winch design is simple and reliable, and although it does not have the ability to switch gear ratio, reverse and other auxiliary functions, it performs the task of moving heavy loads in a horizontal plane. If you need to raise the load to a great height, such a winch can be used in combination with a hand hoist or simply by throwing the cable through a solid support.

Thus, in today's lesson we examined the creation of a manual winch with our own hands, subscribe to our group and be aware of all the important news !.

A mobile and simpler, stationary crane beam in the garage with your own hands is quite feasible if you have a welding machine and two days of free time. For a professional auto repair shop, it’s easier to buy ready-made lifting equipment.

If the need for a crane is rare, then it is cheaper to make a simple and reliable elevator yourself. Such a homemade crane can easily lift the weight up to 800 kg, and this is enough for repair work in the garage.

In order to make a frame for a small beam crane in a standard garage with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

i-beam (4 - 4.5 meters) - the required footage depends on the height of the garage;
pipe (diameter 10-12 cm), length 2.4 meters - 2 pieces;
one square pipe (10x10 cm);
corners (10x10);
manual hoist and hoist;
bolts (M16) with nuts.

If you plan to build a mobile crane, then you need four more rollers and a hoist.

The procedure for the manufacture of a crane frame with your own hands:

we weld the legs of the crane - you need to weld the corners from two sides to the I-pipe;
the location of the corner is at an angle of 45 degrees. We get peculiar stiffeners that will firmly fix the rack, which accounts for the bulk of the load carried by the crane;
we weld two triangles, spacers on each crane stand.

if the crane is a movable beam, then it is necessary to weld a roller on each side of the bottom to the horizontal on each rack - ordinary rollers for metal containers will do, furniture will not support the weight;
on top, as a crossbar, we fix the pipe along which the lifting mechanism will move;
in the center of the pipe we weld an I-beam for fixing the roller, along which the steel cable of the crane lifting mechanism will move.

on top of the I-beam, we weld a piece of a square pipe (to stiffen the frame) - 40 cm. The pipe should protrude on both sides by at least 20 cm. It turns out that the side stand is located in the middle of the crossbar stiffness pipe;
insert the transverse tube of the crossbar of the frame into the square tube;
we drill through holes for bolts of fastenings on both sides of the square holder and in the crossbar pipe itself - you need a rigid reliable fixation on both sides of the vertical rack.

It turns out a U-shaped design of the frame of the crane, which is installed on the hard legs of the spacers, and on the top the crossbar is rigidly bolted.

Installation of lifting gear - manual or automatic

For mechanical lifting of loads on the frame, you need to install a manual hoist - a worm winch and a cable. How to fix the hoist on the frame:

on the side of the rack we install a manual worm winch (carrying capacity 800 kg, no less);
steel cable moves on casters.

Such a mechanism makes it easy to raise the engine or car by the hood on one side.

You can take as a drive a lifting mechanism and rollers from the elevator door. There the rollers are reliable and durable.

An electric drive of the lift can also be installed on the fabricated base. The 300 - 500 W engine will be enough for simple repair work in the garage.

Such cranes are often used for repair and reconstruction of old wooden houses. Building a chopped house will go faster if the logs are laid using a mobile home-made crane. In this case, the width of the frame is along the length of the logs of the log house.

And you can make a simpler lift for the engine, on one support, see the video.

Tal is a device for lifting and lowering cargo. In addition, such a mechanism can hold the load in a suspended position. The hoists can have a manual or electric drive. With an electric drive, the electric motor is responsible for the movement of the cables. Manual hoist uses a chain mechanism. Such a device may be gear or lever. In this article I will talk about the principles of action of manual hoists.

The most successful solution for lifting the load and working with it at a height is the manual gear hoist. This mechanism is designed to raise and lower loads of various configurations. As the name of this device implies, the mechanism is driven manually. Moreover, an energy source is not needed. A person who does not have great strength can work with manual chain hoist.

The principle of operation of the chain hoist is not very complicated. This mechanism can be used as a stand-alone hoist or as part of a crane beam structure. The hoist can be mobile, lever or stationary.

To work with stationary hoist, the operator must be directly next to the load. Thanks to the rotary casing, the load can be not only raised and lowered, but also deployed for more convenient work with it.

The mobile chain hoist is attached to the I-beam profile, along which, using the carriage included in the hoist, weights can be moved in two directions: vertical and horizontal. This hoist, which is mounted on a carriage, is called a hoist.

How does the chain hoist work?
The chain hoist consists of two blocks and a chain thrown between them. There is a chain sprocket on the bottom block, and two sprockets of different diameter on the top block. It is because of the difference in the diameters of the sprockets that a more efficient lifting of the load occurs.

In addition, one should not forget about the increase in efficiency of the hoist due to the block system.

Chain hoist advantage:
Compactness;
Light weight;
Ease of use;
Lack of energy consumption;
Durability;
Relatively low cost.

You can learn about chain hoists on the site stropu71.ru.

Here you can also purchase cable slings and other hoisting mechanisms and accessories. Partner StroyService has been supplying lifting and surveying equipment for about ten years. In addition, the services of this company include the design and manufacture of slings and ropes of any size and type.

The mechanisms of movement of hoists, the carrying capacity of which is 1, 2 and 3 tons, include elements such as drive and idle trolley, traverse. By means of the last element, the lifting mechanism is fixed and connected to the displacement unit.

Trolleys for hoists are attached to the traverse with the help of articulated fingers of a vertical type. This design provides the angle of the trolley in 15-18 degrees.

Thanks to the hinged design (guide rollers are provided on the vertical axes), the hoist with the movement mechanism freely passes along the tracks with a minimum radius of curvature.

Due to the low positioned electric motor, the electric hoist movement mechanism without difficulty overcomes turnouts of small sizes.

The monorail electric hoist movement mechanism is offered in normal and reduced dimensions.

Mechanisms of movement of hoists of normal size are equipped with one common sidewall on each side. An engine is mounted on one side through a flange. The connection of the motor shaft with the primary gear is realized through the use of a reduction attachment.

A hoist with a reduced-size movement mechanism is characterized by a different type of construction. Instead of two, there are 4 sidewalls here (two driven and two leading).

On devices with low lifting capacity and low lifting height, only 1 trolley is provided. The trolley is fixed to the housing rigidly using a frame.

For hoists equipped with a pair of trolleys, 2 types of fastening are provided - rigid (frame) and articulated (special bolt).

Variations of the fastening mechanisms for the movement of electric hoists

The design of the lifting mechanism is adapted to fix the node to move the load along the horizontal plane. Such mechanisms are designed for monorail or double-rail. The latches can be of the following types:

Rigid (hinged) - for the movement mechanism of normal size. Polyspast 2/1 and 4/1. Figure 4A shows an electric hoist with one trolley.

Hinged (Fig. 4B I) - the lifting device is not rigidly fixed near the axis and running wheels.

Swinging or half-hinged - the lifting mechanism swings. In fig. 4B shows an electric hoist with two trolleys.

Non-articulated 2/1 and 4/1. Designed for hoists with reduced dimensions of the movement mechanism. The lifting unit is mounted on the side of the rail. This design saves usable space.

Lifting mechanism with a knot of movement along a two-rail track. Fig 6.

Figure 4 shows a diagram of the movement mechanism, which includes an electric motor (2), a gearbox (3), a drive unit (4), and a driven unit (5).

Homemade winch (hoist, hoist). How to make a lifting mechanism for a garage, workshop, construction site.
Many home craftsmen would like to have some kind of lifting mechanism in their garage or workshop, such as hoists, hoists or hoists. Of course, you can buy them ready-made, but they are usually not very cheap - several thousand rubles. Yes, and are not often on sale. Car rescue lever winches available in almost any store cannot be used for lifting loads. Because their stoppers are made using a ratchet mechanism. And it works well only in one direction. It is easy to lift the load with such a winch. But to omit it smoothly is problematic. With the independent manufacture of hoists or hoists, the master is faced with the problem of where to get a powerful reliable gearbox (with a transmission of at least 1:20 - 50) and always with the effect of self-braking. As a rule, these are powerful worm gearboxes and they do not often fall into the hands of a master.

Meanwhile, almost anyone can make a homemade winch or hoist, and as they say, from improvised materials. On sale are threaded rods up to 2 meters long. And it can serve as an excellent gearbox for a homemade hoist.

The device of such a winch is clear from the sketches. The principle of operation of the winch is simple. If the threaded rod itself is rotated, and the nut on this stud is not allowed to scroll, then the nut will move along the stud. The force during this movement is much greater than that required for the rotation of the stud (all screw jacks work on the same principle, the increase in force there reaches 20-30 times).

The ends of the studs are fixed in bearings, which in turn are mounted in bearings. A stud nut is a rectangular metal plate to which ordinary nuts are welded. The plate prevents the nuts from rolling. A cable is attached to the plate. The cable is passed through one of the supports and thrown through the block. At the other end of the cable is a lifting hook or a sling system (this depends on the purpose of the lifting winch).

The stud drive is easiest to do manually. For this, a pulley or gear is fixed at one of its ends. (for example, you can even use a bicycle). A strong cord or chain is thrown through a pulley or gear by an endless loop. If you pull on one side or another of the cord, then the stud will rotate, and the nut will move along the stud. Accordingly, there will be a cable along with it, and the load will either lower or rise. Self-braking of the mechanism is absolute, no force on the nut will cause the pin to rotate. Rather, all the threads will break.

Of course, it is possible to make an electric drive using any reversible electric motor with a power of 200-500 watts. It is convenient to use, for example, some kind of inexpensive electric drill with a switch of direction of rotation. Now many such drills are commercially available. The electric drive can be made directly and through an additional pulley or flexible shaft.

Such a home-made winch will be able to lift a few hundred kilograms. This is in most cases enough for domestic needs. The length of the stud, or rather the possibility of moving the nut along it, determines the height of the lift (in the simplest embodiment of this home-made hoist). If you take a hairpin 2 meters long, then this height will be approximately 170-180 cm, which in most cases is more than enough for a home workshop or garage. However, the height of the lift is easy and increase simple tricks.

The support (base) for such a winch can be made of durable dry wooden timber or a thick board. Although of course it is better to use a metal profile or channel. All connections are made using reconciliation or bolted. It all depends on the purpose and capabilities of the wizard. It is easy to organize the movement of this hoist under the ceiling. For example, with the help of some kind of T-beam, located in the center of the workshop. And install the caliper on the beam so that it can rotate around its center. Then almost any point in the garage or workshop will be available. A similar result can, of course, be achieved with the help of various blocks, there would be an opportunity to fix something on something. Of course, the floor beams of the building should also be designed for additional load.

On the basis of such home-made winches, you can make a home-made crane. This will require at least two of these winches. It is most convenient to place them in a crane arm. One of the winches will lift the boom itself (change its angle of inclination), and the second will lift the load itself. Of course, do not forget about the counterweight.

The simplicity and affordability of such a homemade winch opens up a wide enough scope for its use in a home workshop, garage or construction site.

Konstantin Timoshenko

The hanging hoist in the garage is used as a lifting device. The equipment helps to move heavy objects and more convenient to carry out car repairs. Armed with the necessary components, it is possible to assemble the hoist with your own hands.

The hoist hoist, which is also called the hoist, can be manual or electric for automated use. According to technical characteristics, the equipment is a mechanism for lifting and moving various loads, including auto parts.

It is possible to place a movable trolley in any room, regardless of free space and ceiling height. Depending on the type of construction, the carrying capacity can reach 10 tons. The standard hoist is capable of lifting loads to a height of 12 m. The design consists of the following elements:

chain pulley consisting of several blocks interconnected;
coaxial coaxial gear;
disc braking system;
output shaft;
pendant with a hook.

Where is used

A lifting device is used to move goods with various dimensions and weights. It can be household appliances, metal structures and car parts. In production facilities, equipment is used to lift loads and stack on the upper shelves.

Manual hoist is widely used during repair and construction work, when there is a need to lift tools and heavy materials.
Varieties of hoist designs

There are several types of design that differ in the installation method, design features, control option and other technical characteristics. Choosing the right equipment option for the garage, it is necessary to take into account the individual needs and parameters of the room.

Hand driven

Hand hoists are used to lift objects to a small height. The load rating of equipment with a manual drive varies from 1 to 8 tons. The pulling force on the lifting mechanism is 30-65 kgf, which provides a speed of 0.3 to 0.1 m / min. The weight of the structure depends on the material and additional components and ranges from 50 to 400 kg.

Manual gear

Chain hoists with gear mechanism are used for installation work within the garage or in open spaces. Equipment control is carried out at the load fixation point. Gear models are equipped with a hanging hook, they are easy to install and operate. The design features of gear hoists allow them to be used as stand-alone equipment or as a lifting element for cranes.

Lever

The manual lever hoist is equipped with a hanging hook and can be fixed to the support beams or the cable. The manual principle of operation ensures independence from the availability of electricity. The design provides a locking mechanism for fixing objects in suspension.

Worm gear

Worm hoists, by analogy with other varieties, are used to lift and lower loads. When completing with additional elements, the worm hoists can move objects along the monorail of the I-beam. Suspending a stationary hoist on a hook can be done manually or an integral version can be made connected to a mobile trolley.

How to make a homemade manual hoist: step by step instructions

By independently making a manual hoist, it is enough to follow the step-by-step instructions. Equipment can be manufactured by following these steps:

Weld the crane legs to the I-pipe.

Position the metal corners 45 degrees to create stiffeners that secure the rack. The bulk of the load lifted falls precisely on this rack, so for extra reliability it is necessary to weld the spacers to it.

If the hoist is mobile, it is necessary to weld the rollers on each rack.

On the ceiling of the garage, fix the pipe along which the lifting mechanism will move.

Weld an I-beam in the center of the pipe to secure the roller mechanism.

Insert the crossbeam of the frame into the pipe.

Drill through holes on both sides of the holder and lock the lifting gear.

Tools and materials

To build a hoist, you must first prepare a set of tools and accessories. In particular, to create a hoist, you will need:

i-beam with a length of about 4-4.5 m (the exact length depends on the ceiling height in the garage);

square pipe with dimensions 10x10 cm, 2 pipes with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a length of 2.5 m;

bulgarian;

metal corners 10x10 cm;

m16 bolts with nuts;

lifting gear.

If you plan to install a mobile hoist, you will additionally need to use 4 rollers. Accessories are used to move the cart.

Mount nodes

One of the important stages of the construction of a mobile structure is the installation of nodes. First you need to drill holes in the racks through which a rod with a thread will be drawn at the ends. Washers are mounted on the base of the rod and nuts are screwed on to limit the divergence of the racks. Then, a chain is fixed on each side in the middle of the pole.

For the winch to move freely, the chain should sag slightly. A block with a cable is installed on the chain, passing along the middle rack and fixed from the bottom.
Activation and performance testing

Before each start-up and operation of the hoist, it is recommended to check the operability of the main elements. The following components are subject to verification:

Chain. Since the chain is responsible for keeping the item at a height, it is important to check the load capacity. Periodic maintenance involves cleaning the chain of dirt and lubricating with solid oil or similar materials.
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