How to lengthen an electrical wire in an apartment. How to lengthen the internet cable (network cable)? Joyner and patch cord detachable connections

The question of how to build up a wire when it is damaged remains always relevant. And although many will say that it is not so easy to damage the wire, in practice it turns out that this is not entirely true.

On the site http://vse-elektrichestvo.ru/elektroprovodka/provoda-i-kabelya/kak-narastit-provod .html you will find information on how wires are built up in different operating conditions and with various damages. And there can be plenty of such damage.

For example, a wire can be damaged during installation work when a grinder or drill is used. In this case, you may not know that a wire is laid in the place of drilling or notch, and the appearance of sparks will report the damage.

Very often the wires break off, and in rather hard-to-reach places, for example, in sockets, light switches or under the ceiling, where a chandelier or shade is mounted.

Finally, it may be necessary to move the outlet or switch for convenience or better accessibility. And in this case, and the user has two options:

• lengthen the wire to achieve your goals;
• replace wires.

Any electrician will tell you that replacing wires in the event of a break or need to extend is much more sensible than lengthening the wires.

However, it is costly to completely replace a piece of wiring from the panel to the outlet. If the apartment has a fresh renovation, it will certainly be damaged, and these are unnecessary costs and hassle. However, this is a better solution than ineptly lengthening the wire with your own hands.

If you plan to cope with the task yourself, you should know in advance how to build up the wire correctly.

So you've decided to tackle your wires yourself. We warn you right away that the common method of twisting broken wires and wrapping them with electrical tape is not the best solution.

There are many cases when it is precisely because of handicraft repairs in this way that fire hazardous situations arise. The fact is that in the place of twisting, oxidation occurs over time, which, in turn, leads to heating at the junction of the wires.

Only wires of the same metal can be spliced \u200b\u200btogether. Wires of different metals can be connected only in the terminal block, since it does not allow materials to come into contact.

Heat-shrink tubing gives a reliable connection of wires, providing good insulation.

• You must put the tube on the wire before connecting.
• Further, the wires are built up or connected.
• After that, the tube is moved to the connection point.
• It must be heated, for example with a lighter or burner.
• The tube shrinks and you get a sealed connection.

How to extend a short wire?

It is much more difficult to build up a short wire than a long one, all electricians know this. Most DIYers will advise you to hammer in the wall to free up a larger piece of wire.

However, there are many reasons why you don't want to touch the wall. This is a fresh renovation, and the complexity of the procedure (when it comes to a concrete wall), and a large amount of dirt and dust associated with such a procedure. In this case, you can use a more modern method than twisting and soldering - a connector block for electrical wires.

It allows you to use even a short piece of wire. In addition, modern connector blocks make it possible to fearlessly connect wires made of different materials.

If we are talking about old buildings, then, most likely, traditional aluminum wires are in the walls. It is unacceptable to connect them with copper ones by twisting, we have already talked about this.

When using the connector block, you must proceed as follows:

• strip the end of the wire sticking out of the wall with a knife or other convenient tool;
• put the block on the wire with one of the holes;
• it is necessary to exert enough effort so that the wire is inserted correctly, because the block is tight enough;
• with the same force we push the connected wire onto the second hole.

Both wires to be connected are fixed in the block tightly, so that one of them flew out, there can be no question.

Perhaps this is one of the simplest and most affordable wire connection options. The only thing worth saying is that you should get a quality pad from a good manufacturer. Poor quality Chinese options will not work here.

Remember the basic safety measures when working with electricity. No one has benefited from an electric shock yet, so take care of yourself beforehand.

In the houses of the old building, the builders installed an electrical input panel on each floor of the entrance. An electrical network was connected from him to all rooms. A different technical solution has now been taken. All electrical circuit switching is carried out inside the apartment, where the electrical distribution board is mounted.

However, when moving in, it often becomes necessary to replace or transfer the electrical switchboard. Cheap designs are simply not capable of meeting today's challenges for a safe power supply. Even for a modern two-room apartment with 60 m2 of space, more than a dozen electrical circuits are required.

Changing the model of the shield will require lengthening the power cable, and it may be walled up in a concrete wall or not fit in length. It is not always convenient to take a new cable and lay it with an additional route, especially when it is fixed inside an interframe mount, which is quite difficult to determine. In addition, replacing the power circuits on the driveway requires a lot of approvals, the involvement of a specialized team, which creates tangible difficulties.

How to properly replace the lead-in cable

Analysis of technical characteristics

First, you should accurately determine the cross-section and material of the veins, access to which can be hidden. After all, you will need to buy an additional piece to extend the length.

It is best to contact the management company and obtain information from the project documentation.

You can also use indirect methods according to the parameters of the rated current at the input machine. For 63 amperes of load, a cable with a cross-section for each core of at least 16 mm2 in copper is mounted. In the case of a planned consumption of less than 50 amperes - 10 mm2, and for currents of 10 amperes - both options 10 or 16 are possible.

If there is access to the conductors of the cable, then the cross-sectional area can be measured. But this must be done when the voltage is removed, with the obligatory verification of its absence tested.

Required materials and tools

In the store you will need to buy supplies:

Cable in the form of a piece of the required length;

Coupling for the appropriate section and material;

Special mounting sleeves for the number of core connections;

Mounting pliers;

Insulation materials. You can do with special heat shrink tubes. Or use strong epoxy-based compounding compounds to pot the coupling directly in a sealed plastic box.

Work technology

The voltage is removed from the old switchboard by disconnecting the conventional input circuit breaker in compliance with the rules of safe work for dismantling the shield and the cable end on it. Then you will need to rewire the power cable to a new place, connect the purchased jumper to it to increase the total length.

Method of mounting conductors to create electrical contact

Each core of the cable is inserted into the sleeve of the coupling from one side and is securely connected by bolting or crimping with special pliers with adjustable force (depending on the chosen connection design), without which there will be no reliable electrical contact. In most cases, a power cable with flexible stranded conductors is laid for access to apartments.

When connected under a bolt, they deform over time and increase, disrupting the quality of contact, which leads to excessive heating and burnout of the metal up to complete destruction under heavy loads. Therefore, for a threaded connection, special sleeves are used that seal the metal, fixed by crimping with pliers to obtain a solid structure. In this way, the prepared core can be connected under the screw into the sleeve.

Coupling insulation

In practice, two professional methods are used to reliably insulate conductors.

When choosing them, the tube is put on the junction and heats up to a certain temperature. Smaller connection diameters are insulated first. Then cover large sections with insulating material.

To complete the work, the one worn on top is warmed up by an open flame of an industrial hair dryer for a tight fit of metals with an insulating material that ensures tightness.

2. Filling with resin

For this method, it is convenient to use ready-made kits with a coupling, a housing of two halves, a sealing tape and bags with sealant.

A sealing tape is used to seal the ends of the cable in the sleeve.

Sealant preparation

For bags, simply remove the bridge, then mix the resin with the diluent by shaking frequently for about a minute. In this case, the components are heated. Reaching a high temperature indicates that the mixture is ready.

Pouring the finished resin into the sleeve should be carried out with the housing firmly fixed to the wall through the corner hole cut in the package.

Warning

This operation should not be done when the assistant is holding the body with the coupling in his hands. Any movement can cause injury or burns, and the power cable has a certain weight and dimensions.

After pouring the sealant, it is required to remove the filler funnel, and close the hole with a special plug. It is also recommended to tilt the entire structure several times in different planes to evenly coat the body cavities with resin. Next, we fix the created sleeve for the final solidification of the sealing mixture and subsequent laying.

In this way, the length is increased, and the augmented power cable reliably provides two most important tasks of the electrical circuit:

1. Creation of excellent electrical contact with minimal contact resistance;

2. Reliable hermetic insulation between all cores and the sheath, allowing long-term operation even in a humid environment.

It remains to connect the extended end of the lead-in cable to the new apartment panel, but this is already the material of another article.

When transferring video surveillance systems, we are faced with the fact that the current wire is not enough and needs to be extended. Let's consider how to increase it without losing video quality. As we already know, to transmit a signal over a coaxial cable, a center conductor (usually mono-core) and a braid (multi-core) are used.

The connection method may depend on the type of coaxial cable and the environment in which the joint will be located.

We extend the outdoor CCTV coaxial cable or twisted pair cable.

The joint is outdoors, in the ground, or in other harsh conditions. Provide a sealed protective box, placing the docking point in it. For a secure fit and for a better seal, we use heat shrink tubing. Under the influence of temperature, it shrinks and reliably fits the junction of our wires. When using plastic junction boxes and there are no sealed glands in them, you can additionally coat the sealing gum with a sealant.

The center conductor of a coaxial cable can be solid or stranded.

To extend (connect) a solid cable:

- One way is to wrap two threaded coaxial F connectors on the end of each cable and connect them together with an F female. The advantages of such switching are that the central core of the conductor acts as a plug, and this will help to avoid additional signal losses. No special tools are required for crimping F connectors, and the connection is resistant to mechanical stress.

- Connection or extension using coaxial connectors: two BNC video surveillance connectors (preferably crimped) on each side of the joint. They are connected to each other by the I connector (mother-to-mother).

To extend (connect) a multicore cable:
- The central vein consists of many thin, soft, interwoven threads. We clean and twist all the hairs of the central core together, dip in neutral soldering grease, and then, thanks to a soldering iron, into molten solder. As a result, the central core will become tinned and solid. Next, we connect the two wires in the same way as in the case of a mono-conductor: using two F connectors and an F socket (barrel).

- Using coaxial connectors: two BNC connectors for video surveillance (preferably crimped) on each side. They are connected to each other by the I connector (mother-to-mother). The stranded cable will first need to be tinned, as in the previous case.

Other ways to lengthen your CCTV coaxial cable:

- Twisting is not the best option to build up the wire, since the reliability of such a connection suffers. After building up the coax, try to move the joint, the image should not double and there should be no interference. Over time, the curl may oxidize, which will affect the image quality.

- Soldering the cable. This method is not suitable always and everywhere. Because wave impedance is important for video signal transmission, it is not enough to simply provide contact between two conductors.

We are expanding the video surveillance cable based on a twisted pair.

How to lengthen a twisted pair cable?
- It is best to extend the twisted pair with a connector and connectors: "feed-through modules". First, you need to crimp the two ends of the wire with the rj-45 (8P8C) connectors with a crimper. Then they need to be connected by a "pass-through module".

- As an alternative, there are pass-through adapters (utp extension cable), for termination of crosses.

- Elongation by twisting is not the best option to build up the wire, the reliability of the connection suffers, the places of the twists are oxidized. You can use this splicing method if you don't have another tool at hand.

- Extension of utp wire by soldering. A long, difficult option, and also not always possible.

Write questions, comments and suggestions to: [email protected]website

Often In everyday life, many are faced with a problem: how to build up or restore a broken electrical cable or wire, in cases:

1. When you drilled or cut with a grinder wall or floor, and at the same time accidentally cut an electric wire or cable laid in the wall and not visible to the eyes. In this case, as a rule, sparks are visible at the place of damage and turns off or knocks out. In addition, sockets and lighting stop working, which were connected after the damaged section of the wiring.
2. It often happens that breaks off one or two wires in the back box under an outlet or switch, and the remaining length is not enough to connect them.
3. And it happens need to move the outlet slightly higher or closer to the electrical connections.

You should know that the best option for repairing damaged sections of electrical wiring is to completely replace the damaged section from the junction box to the outlet or switch. But this work often requires chipping and damage of finishing materials - tiles, wallpaper, decorative plaster, etc.

Some people connect damaged wires or cables by simply twisting them togetherand then wrapped with electrical tape.

But this is not correct and not reliable.- due to the lack of reliable contact at the junction, over time, the twist oxidizes and begins to heat up!

You can restore or build up an electrical wire yourself , here it is important to remember that splicing is permissible when only wires of the same metal are in contact with each other. Only in the terminal block it is permissible to connect copper and aluminum conductors, since in it the wires do not directly touch when connected. In other cases, do not twist or crimp copper with aluminum together, since these two metals, when in contact with each other, begin to oxidize with the disappearance of electrical contact over time.

If you have the electrical wiring in the switchboard is connected to the RCD or Differential automatic devices, which are triggered by a leakage of current from the mains, then it is necessary to very carefully and reliably isolate from each other not only the phase and zero connections, but also the grounding conductor.

The best option would be to use shrink a tube that is preliminarily put on the wire, and after the wires are connected or extended, it is put on at the junction and heated by a lighter, gas burner or a special hair dryer.

The tube shrinks when heated and seals reliably.

Electrical cables with a cross section of 4 or 6 square millimeters connect to the electric stove by soldering.

If a broken off one wire or two in the back box for the installation of switches and sockets, but the tips of at least 1.5 centimeters remained, then I advise you to build up the wires using the terminal block (on the left in the picture below), strip the wires, insert one on each side and tighten with a screwdriver. Fast and reliable. But if there is not enough length, then you will have to split the section to the box for building up to the socket of the new section of the cable. The connection procedure is similar to repairing a broken cable.

The cores are welded using a special factory-made apparatus.

Always connect two cables according to the corresponding core colors. This will help you properly connect the grounding conductor to the outlet.

Step-by-step instructions for restoring a broken or cut electrical cable or wire.

1. In panel houses the easiest way is to pull out the damaged cable from the channel and replace it with a new one from the socket to the junction box, because in the panels the electrical wiring is stretched inside the pipe - no gouging is required.
2. In other cases, you need to break a section of the wall along the cable or wire for at least 15 centimeters in both directions and with a margin of depth so that the insulated connection is hidden in it. Attention be careful, do not damage the cable again.
3. Thereafter butcher and clean, but at different distances, so that the bare connections are not opposite each other.
4. We put on cambric or heat shrink tubing on wires of the same cross-section and metal as in the damaged area. We connect them to each other using welding, sleeves with crimping, soldering or self-clamping terminal blocks.
5. We stretch the heat shrinkage over the exposed areas of the joints and heat it.
6. We take a high-quality electrical tape with good elasticity and stickiness and rewind each wire separately, if we did not use heat shrinkable tubes. Self-clamping terminal blocks have good electrical insulating properties, but it still does not hurt to additionally wrap them with electrical tape at the connection points where the solution can get inside the electrical clamps.
7. Observing