How to fix the storage water heater to the wall. Features of mounting a water heater (boiler) on the wall. How to attach to walls of different materials

Now a lot of houses (both private and multi-apartment) are made of aerated concrete. This technology has many undoubted advantages, for example, it is lightweight, breathable, warm. However, at first glance, it is not as strong, indeed it can be cut with an ordinary saw. It is soft and crumbles easily! This is what scares, for example, is it possible to hang (fix) something on such a wall, say a boiler (in our opinion, a water heater), I mean a storage, not a flow-through version. After all, in order to take a shower normally, you need to take at least 50 liters, but will the wall withstand? Actually about this and there will be another article + video version at the end. So we read and watch ...

Water rises in price, therefore, in order to save on it, it is often advantageous to hang a boiler. However, if you can hang on a brick wall, as well as on concrete (slabs) without much fear, both materials are very durable. But here's an aerated concrete wall, it cannot always withstand such a weight, there are many cases on the network when a seemingly not even heavy water heater of 30 - 50 liters fell, tearing pieces out of the wall! So what can you do, can you hang it or not?

How much does a water heater weigh

Many people mistakenly think that the water heater weighs "at par." That is, if you took, say, 50 liters, then the total weight is about 50 kilograms! But this is extremely not true, the weight of the water heater itself is also not small. I will give the approximate weights by points:

• 30 liters on average, only the water heater itself will weigh about 13 - 15 kg
• 50l - 17 - 20 kilograms
• 80l - 22 - 24kg
• 100L - 24 - 26kg
• 120l - 26 - 30kg
• 150L - about 35kg
• 200l - about 57kg
• 300l - about 74kg

Of course, a lot depends on the manufacturer - what thickness of steel he used (and also what material - ordinary steel or stainless steel), how much insulation he put in, how much a plastic tank weighs, how much electronic filling. BUT on average, the weight of the water heater is exactly that.

That is, if you sum up a little, it turns out - a boiler for 50 liters (20 kg) + water in it another 50 kg, thus - total weight will be about 70kg .

We disassemble aerated concrete

Despite the apparent softness of the aerated concrete material (it really can be cut with a hacksaw), it can withstand quite heavy loads. However, not all manufacturers make the same material. What I mean is - before calculating how much weight a wall can withstand, you need to know the density of your aerated concrete. It is also different, and the withstand load will depend on this.

The minimum density, which I myself have personally seen, is 300 kg / m3. Such blocks are mainly taken for private houses and small buildings up to two floors.

The average density is 400 kg / m3, with such blocks it is possible to build houses up to three floors without any reinforcement.

The maximum density is 500 kg / m3, such material can be used up to 4 floors, without any reinforcement. That is, the blocks themselves are made as load-bearing walls.

Of course, it is possible that the density is even higher, but personally I have never encountered such a problem.

Guys have two types of load, this is the so-called - to put it bluntly, if you hang the heater from the ceiling, screw the bolts into the ceiling, then the boiler will try to pull them out.

Often, boilers are hung on capital, street or driveway walls. Their thickness is at least 25 cm (250mm), and street walls can vary from 400 to 500 mm (almost half a meter). ON THIN WALLS, FROM WHICH THE PARTITIONS ARE MADE, TO HANG THE BOILER - IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED AN ESPECIALLY LARGE DISTRIBUTION! Partition walls are often only 10 cm thick, they cannot support a lot of weight, and they will really collapse.

About shear load and density, I will take walls 25 cm thick, as well as one bolt with a diameter of 8 mm:

300 kg / m3 - holds 50 kg

400 kg / m3 - about 70 kg

500 kg / m3 - about 90 kg

I have been looking for such information for a long time on various manufacturers' websites, maybe it is not entirely accurate, but here I indicated with a margin. On one resource of the manufacturer it was said that a density of 300 kg / m3, if a bolt with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 100 mm is screwed into it, can withstand about 100 kg of shear load in general!

That is, if you hang a water heater of 50 liters (and as we calculated it from above about 70 kg), it is usually hung by 2 or 4 bolts, then even a wall with a density of 300 kg / m3 will withstand it EASILY! Indeed, in the version with 2 bolts, the shear load will be about 100 kg, and with 4 bolts 200 kg! If the density is taken at 400 - 500 kg / m3, then the withstand load is much greater, so a wall of 500 (4 bolts) can withstand up to 400 kg.

My version

I hung it on a load-bearing wall of 50 cm, with a density of 400 - 500 kg / m3, as the manufacturer indicates on its website. True, I have a boiler for 120 liters, and even weighs about 25 kg itself, that is, you need to withstand a total weight of 145 - 150 kg. True, 4 bolts are used for fastening, large weights are already from 80 kg, 4 fasteners are used!

What I bought, special dowel nails for aerated concrete, they look like special screws (they have protruding parts on the sides). A hole is drilled and it is hammered there, and the side parts, as it were, cut "slots" in aerated concrete, this allows the dowel to sit firmly enough.

What else has been done - I bought a dowel with a size of 10 X 70mm (it was just not larger), and bought "plumbing bolts" with large washers, 8 X 100mm. Why did the bolt take longer? I read on one forum - that such a combination gives even greater strength to the fastening, the bolt passes through the dowel, and at the end, when it cuts through it, it presses the tail parts of the plastic even more strongly!

Actually I removed the dimensions from the water heater, drilled 4 holes 10 X 130 mm, hammered in the dowels and screwed in the "plumbing bolts". Then I hung up the boiler and fixed it empty on the wall, VERY FIRM!

Then we turn on the water and observe, of course, I was a little worried, but everything is fine. On 4 bolts, a boiler with a total weight of 145 - 150 kg, holds up perfectly, weighs for 4 months already, so you can hang it on aerated concrete! The main thing is to be smart! Do not hang on the walls of aerated concrete 10 cm (interior), water heaters over 30 kg - IT'S DANGEROUS!

Now the video version of the article, we are watching.

At this end, I think my article was useful to you, read our construction site.

2016-11-28 Evgeny Fomenko

Unlike flow models, storage water heaters are large due to the presence of a tank. Before buying yourself a boiler, you need to think about where it is better to hang a water heater in the bathroom. A common variant is seen in the photo.

When choosing a future location, it is important to consider several factors:

• The wall to which the water heater is attached must be load-bearing. Allowed to mount on concrete and brick walls. It is forbidden to hang boilers on plasterboard partitions.
• It is necessary to consider the convenience of the water supply. A place is chosen that is as close as possible to water communications.
• Plan how the wires and electrical outlet will be located. Even if the bathroom already has electricity, it is advisable to install a new copper cable and connect it to a separate machine. The wire must be grounded. It is forbidden to install sockets above the bath and shower.
• In the future, access to the boiler connection point should remain for repairs if necessary. For prevention, you should check the condition of the heating element from time to time. There must be space to retrieve it.
• We need to think about access to the sewer, to drain water from the overpressure valve.

When choosing the optimal location, you should strive to ensure that the body does not interfere with movement and occupy the minimum amount of room volume. To do this, they tend to hang it as high as possible.

The most common places for a water heater:

The compact vertical models can be hung almost anywhere. They are very compact and will not interfere, even if they are mounted on the side of the bathroom.

The easiest way is to install the floor model. These water heaters take up less space and do not require wall mounting. The water supply is carried out from the back. These boilers can be placed under the sink or in any free space.

Instantaneous water heaters are smaller and are usually placed under a bathtub or in a sink cabinet.

Below in the video you can see about the original invisible hatch, which allows you to hide the water heater, if you placed it in a niche, or in a wall with sewer pipes:

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water pipe is used. It is in demand when connecting mixers, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible hose is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

• Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity, the aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water hose is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 ° C.
• Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

As fasteners, nut-nut and nut-union pairs are used, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different allowable temperatures differ in the color of the braid. The blue ones are used to connect to the cold water pipeline, and the red ones are used with hot water.

When choosing a water liner, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the emission of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible hoses are also used. Unlike water models, they are yellow and do not pass environmental testing. End steel or aluminum reinforcement is used for fixing. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• pVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and the quality of products is confirmed by certificates of the established form. For informational support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage - irrigation and drainage measures to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleamed, if the shrubs and trees quickly disappear (soak), it is necessary to urgently take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging

There are several reasons for waterlogging:

• clayey heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• the aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high occurrence of groundwater;
• man-made factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape plot is located in the lowland, gully, hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What is the risk of excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to a violation of the air exchange processes, the water regime and the diet in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disturbed, because excess water washes away mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, putrefaction processes are activated.

Plants can tell you what level the groundwater is at

Take a closer look at the flora of your site. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• top water - at this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges - vesicular, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass grow;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, ranks;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning the drainage of the site

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
• the depth of the water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetables, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if the groundwater is at a depth of more than 2 m, fruit trees can be grown;
• the optimum depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need drainage of the site

Write down your observations at least for a while. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to just redirect melt and sedimentary water along a bypass channel, rather than letting them flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness of this issue.

At the end of the technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the involved system by the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the test report for internal sewage systems and gutters will be material evidence of the acceptance of the facility.

The visual check should be accompanied by the introduction into the act of testing the internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the D series application, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working edition for SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Boilers with a capacity of up to 30 liters can be hung on almost any wall using plastic dowels. When choosing a mount for tanks with a volume of 50-200 liters, if they must be hung on the wall, the following factors must be taken into account:

If the wall on which the water heater will be mounted is concrete, stone, brick or cinder block, then there are no contraindications to installing a boiler on such a wall. Metal expansion anchor bolts are usually used to secure the boiler:

Photo 1. Appearance of sleeve anchor bolts.

Anchors with a hook at the end (1) are convenient in that they can first be screwed into the wall, and then simply hang the water heater. However, the design of fastening the water heater does not always allow this, and then you will need anchor bolts (2) for a hex wrench or for a Phillips screwdriver (not shown in the photo). The greater the weight of the boiler, the larger the diameter and longer the anchor bolts may be needed. Structurally, the anchor bolts may differ slightly, there are wedge, sleeve, expanding, driven anchor bolts, but their principle of operation is approximately the same, when you screw in the screw, the wedge-shaped nut pushes the spacer sleeve, thus the diameter of the anchor increases. Instead of a nut, there can be a wedge-shaped screw head and then the nut is screwed in at the end, the disadvantage of such anchors is that after tightening the screw may come out of the hole further than planned.

The ultimate loads on the anchor bolt directly depend on the strength of concrete (in this case, we mean heavy concrete), stone, brick or cinder block into which the bolt is driven, while hammering the anchor into the masonry mortar between stones, bricks or cinder blocks is extremely undesirable if it is not bearing wall. And at the bearing walls, the strength of the masonry mortar is still less than the strength of a brick and even a cinder block. Of course, any building structure and in this case the dimensions of the anchor bolt can be calculated, but for this you need to know the class of concrete or the brand of brick, cinder block, wall thickness, distance from the edge and top of the wall to the hole, and much more. In order not to spend several weeks studying the technical documentation of building structures, existing types and subtleties of calculating anchor bolts, they are usually guided by the following considerations:

1. After hanging the storage water heater, the load can be distributed so that only one anchor will hold the main weight, while the pull-out load will in any case be distributed between the 2 anchors (or 2 top anchors if there are 4 anchors in total).

2. By themselves, the anchor bolts can withstand a fairly large shear and pullout load, measured in tons, so, for example, even the thinnest M6 anchor bolt can withstand a pullout load of up to 2.4 tons, and up to 1.2 tons for a shear load, but here the destruction of the material into which the anchor is driven can occur much earlier. Since the material into which the anchor is hammered works only for compression, but also for tension, and neither artificial nor natural stone differ in special tensile strength, this must be taken into account. For example, the normative permissible tensile load on concrete of class B15 is about 7.5 kg / cm 2, the normative permissible load on concrete of class B15 in compression is about 75 kg / cm 2. The greater the depth of the anchor, the larger the area of \u200b\u200bconcrete working in tension and, accordingly, the greater the load such an anchor will withstand. For example, with an anchor depth of 10 cm, class B15 concrete will withstand a pull-out load of up to 1.2 tons, and with an anchor depth of 6 cm, the ultimate load can become 300 kg. And if you use the recommended safety factor \u003d 4, then the maximum load for a 10 cm long anchor bolt will be 300 kg, and for a 6 cm long anchor bolt - 75 kg. Pulling the anchor out of the hole without destroying the material into which the anchor is driven can occur if the anchor has been tightened with insufficient force, or if the anchor hole is too large in diameter. The friction force helps to reduce the likelihood of such pull-out, and the larger the diameter of the anchor bolt, the greater the value of the friction force.

3. Approximately the length and diameter of the anchor bolts, taking into account the above considerations, can be found in the following table.

Note: It is possible to more accurately determine the pull-out load taking into account the actual dimensions of the boiler. On some models, the pull out force for an 80 liter tank may be greater than for a 150 liter tank from another manufacturer. More details in the article "Determining the pull-out force ..."

If the electric storage water heater is planned to be hung on a brick partition a quarter or half brick thick, on a partition made of reinforced plaster, gypsum or foam concrete blocks, then it is better to use anchor bolts with a support washer. For such anchors, a through hole is drilled, a washer is installed on the side opposite to the attachment point. The heavier the tank and the thinner the baffle, the larger the diameter of the washer should be. However, the name: "anchor bolts" in this case is quite loud, for this purpose you can use ordinary bolts of appropriate length and diameter, and instead of washers you can use pieces of sheet metal 1.5-3 mm thick with a hole in the middle. And for water heaters with a volume of 100-200 liters, this may not be enough. For safety reasons, it is better to use not washers, but rolling corners in order to redistribute the load from the water heater. True, the aesthetic appearance of the adjacent room will obviously not improve from such corners.

Hanging a water heater with a volume of more than 50 liters on adobe walls is quite dangerous. In such cases, it is better to make a metal frame from rolled profiles and attach the tank to the frame.

On frame partitions sheathed with plasterboard, MDF panels or plastic panels, you can hang the heater only after corresponding reinforcement of the partition frame.

For more details on determining the pullout force acting on a top anchor anchor, see. An example of how, with this knowledge, you can hang a water heater even on freshly laid tiles is also given in a separate article.

2. How to connect electricity.

There seems to be nothing to think about, just put the plug in the socket, here's the connection. However, not all so simple. It is extremely undesirable to connect the tank without grounding, in addition to the fact that it can be dangerous to health and even life in the event of a breakdown of the insulation of the phase wire to the case, so also the internal tank, in which heating occurs directly, will fail faster without grounding, vortex and wandering currents will do their job. However, the ability to correctly make grounding is not available in all apartments and houses. In this case, the electric water heater must be connected through a residual current device - RCD. This will not solve the problem of stray currents, but at least it will secure the use of the tank.

3. How to connect the water.

To connect water to the heater, you need the appropriate wiring of water pipes. Pipes can be plastic, steel, metal-plastic, copper - this is not the main thing, the main thing is that the wiring is done correctly. The connection diagram of the water heater will look something like this:

Picture 1. Correct connection of the storage water heater to the water supply network.

1 - electric storage water heater.

2 - the main shut-off valve installed on the branch from the riser.

3 - shut-off valves used for mounting and dismounting the water heater (if there is no grounding, then the water heater will have to be changed often enough). The installation of such valves allows you to perform repair work without shutting off the water supply throughout the apartment or house.

4 - drain valve, necessary only for draining the water in case of repair or replacement of the water heater.

5 - safety (check) valve, installed so that in the absence of water in the water supply network, water does not leave the tank. This valve can be considered as a means of additional protection - if, for example, there is no water in the water supply network, and the mixer (7) is left on, then water can gradually leak out of the heating tank, and if the heater turns on, the risk of burnout will increase significantly.

6 - flexible water hoses. In fact, it is not at all necessary to use flexible hoses to connect a storage water heater, but whatever one may say, it is much easier, faster and more convenient than a rigid connection.

7 - mixer (no comment).

However, many people find such a connection overly complicated and they use the following connection scheme:

Figure 2. Incorrect connection of the storage water heater to the water supply.

Theoretically, such a connection scheme is permissible if you are 100% sure that there will always be water in the water supply system and no one will forget to close the tap of the mixer or frequent replacement of the heater worries you less than the aesthetic appearance of the room in which the water heater is installed. Well, if you have to change or repair the water heater, then the water will have to be shut off for the entire apartment or house.

The storage electric water heater is also good because it can be connected to the existing water supply network, this is especially important if the electric water heater will be used as an additional source of hot water. In this case, the connection diagram will look something like this:

Figure 3. Using a storage water heater as an additional source of hot water.

In this case, no valves can be dispensed with without valves (3) blocking the supply of water to the heating tank and from the tank. In addition, the outlet from the hot water riser must be equipped with a check valve to prevent possible leakage of hot water into the common riser. This is possible at different pressures in cold and hot water supply systems, if the valve (2) is left open for some reason. As a rule, if water meters are installed in the apartment, then non-return valves are installed by default. But if there are no meters, then the valve must be installed.

A boiler is a very useful option in a modern apartment or house. That is why the demand for this technique is growing every year. How to hang a water heater is the most popular question that worries all potential buyers. Indeed, when the storage boiler is already at home, the man begins to think about how to connect and attach it to the wall.

How to hang a water heater is the most popular question that worries all potential buyers

Mounting a water heater at home to a wall can cause certain difficulties. There are a large number of factors, each must be taken into account. For example, the weight of the boiler itself is an important criterion. Often, a water heater is selected carefully, taking into account the material of the wall itself in advance. Try working with drywall or hanging the boiler on a wooden wall - it's not that easy.

Design feature

Water heaters can be of different sizes and dimensions, so you need to take into account the design features before you start hanging the structure on the wall. Storage devices can also vary in weight. Large size is not an indicator. For example, boilers from the Ariston company have compact visual characteristics, but always have an impressive weight.

Therefore, you need to separate the boilers by type, in the end it turns out:

• Gas water heater, which is always connected to the main or cylinder. A popular option, but not very practical due to its requirements. The main thing is the presence of a chimney that can go outside the house.
• An electric water heater that can operate from a home electrical outlet. It is often installed in apartments because of this advantage. A chimney is not required, because there are no combustion products, which is another plus.
• Heaters with indirect heating. They are always equipped with heat exchangers, which must be connected directly to their heating system.

What do all these models have in common? There is one detail - storage capacity. It looks like a tank, but is significantly superior in weight to this item. When it is filled with water, it becomes really unbearable. Therefore, the dimensions of the tank are an important nuance before attaching the structure to the wall. It is necessary to take into account the dimensions, weight, visual characteristics and features of the container.

As for the mounting elements, a large number of questions arise, but do not worry. Any model, any brand, is immediately sold with them in the kit. If the device is of an outdoor type, then it is very easy to install it. If wall mounted, a lot of problems arise. You need a solid wall that can support the weight. If you hang a heavy boiler on a very thin wall, it may simply not stand up.

Each wall-mounted boiler has a special feature - it is pre-equipped with special mounting lugs. This is done so that the device is installed correctly. The set contains special steel hooks. Sometimes they are not there, you have to buy the missing part on the market. The main feature is that the diameter of the hole in the eyelet must match the diameter of the hook itself.

Special hook and hole for attaching it

When there is a boiler in the living room, and the wall for installation has already been selected, you need to understand a little about the structure itself. This can be done even by a person without experience; you do not need to be a professional water heater installer. Despite the differences in size and design, most boilers look almost the same. So, you need to deal with the options for fastenings:

1. The first is more difficult, but also reliable. You need to purchase several dowels that are driven into the walls using a special construction gun. The main difficulty is that not everyone has the necessary tools. It will have to be borrowed, buying a construction gun for the sake of one process is stupid, because it costs a lot.
2. The second option is not as strong, but much easier. You need to purchase dowels, but with plastic tips. We drill several holes of the required diameter, insert the dowels there and screw in the steel hooks. Simple and reliable.

Remember these options are only suitable for sturdy walls. If there are foam blocks in the house, then you need to take into account their strength and condition. Any looseness of material and structure can break off. For example, frame houses often do not have cladding of internal walls, the owners leave the tree. Wood can not withstand heavy loads, so you need to think about similar mounting options.

Walls of different materials - how to fix

Since there are a lot of materials from which walls can be composed, each of them needs to be discussed. The quality of the boiler fastening depends on this. And this nuance significantly improves its performance. And there is no chance that the wall will simply collapse over time. Therefore, it is worth scrupulously approaching the issue of material, and calculating what capacity the tank has.

If the tank is huge, for example 100 liters, this is not a problem. But only if the walls are made of solid concrete or stone base. Only these materials are capable of withstanding such a load. In another case, it is necessary to apply additional tools and methods. In this article we will consider situations with each of the possible options.

Foam concrete

Popular in recent years, material that is used by many. Persistent, reliable, but with its own characteristics. There is no need to disassemble here for a long time if the tank does not exceed the volume of 50 liters. In this case, it will be enough to prepare simple nylon spiral dowels. But what if the volume of the tank ranges from 80 to 100 liters? This is already a very heavy construction and you cannot do without additional tools.

• You can use a mounting plate, which is fixed with long steel dowels. It must be clarified that the stud and thread are passed through the wall, and then the washer linings must be tightened with nuts.
• Also, a special anchor can be an excellent option, which is made specifically for foam concrete. It is created precisely for such cases when you need to attach the device to the wall. But it is not a fact that they will be able to withstand a load of 100 kilograms.
• You can use an anchor with glue, which is also called chemical. It sits very firmly in foam concrete and looks neat.

We have listed all the options that can be used with a material such as aerated concrete. But the best of them is the third. Such dowels perfectly cope with temperature extremes and are environmentally friendly, using special glue.

How do you attach chemical anchors to the wall and make the right foundation for future boiler installation? Need to make a few holes. Place the drill at an angle and rotate it axially. A niche will appear inside the material, which will look like a pocket. First you need to fill it with glue, and then enter it inside the anchor. They freeze quickly, become incredibly durable.

Adobe

Saman is another interesting option that the modern market offers. The material can be very durable, it all depends on its quality. But even in the best case, you cannot do without additional tools, there will not be enough simple anchors. Savvy is the main weapon, it is she who will help to come up with a way out of the situation. The easiest option is to make a special shield.

It looks like a simple metal plate, which, with its shape, allows you to distribute the load correctly, across the wall. The shield itself contains several elements. A couple of mounting hooks need to be welded to it, they can be replaced with an eyelet that will help to fix the boiler with bolts. The shield itself is fastened with very long anchors; you can also use studs and spacers for wide washers.

Ceramic tile

Ceramic tile water heater

How often are ceramic tiles used in the home? In the kitchen - almost always. This is a great material and is perfect for such purposes. In turn, it must be said that a boiler is also often installed in the kitchen. Therefore, this subtitle is ideal for such cases. The water heater can be hung on this material only if two conditions are met:

• Very often voids are left under the cladding during the installation procedure. The boiler will simply not be able to hold onto such flimsy material. Therefore, they should not be, right behind the tile is the main wall material.
• The main wall material must be strong.
• The tile should be fixed as tightly as possible, without any deformation, and so on.

If you do not follow at least one of these rules, then problems will surely arise. The first concerns the complete breakdown of the structure from the wall. In this case, the ceramic tile will be very badly damaged. It can also be a problem when the wall can withstand the load, but the tile does not. As a result, it begins to crack and press into the structure. This occurs in the softest areas, as well as where voids are formed.

Plasterboard partitions

A special pin with a mesh sleeve will help to install the boiler on drywall

Drywall has never been considered a reliable and strong material. Therefore, hanging a boiler on such a wall is a dangerous and adventurous undertaking. In any case, this can be done in the place where mortgages are provided. Often they are created during the construction of the wall itself. It is this design that allows you to fix the boiler of almost any size, the anchors will not fall out.

The bookmark area should be almost the same as the boiler itself. It can be more, but certainly not less, the design will not withstand the load.

There is also another option - the supporting structure immediately behind the plasterboard partition. In this case, you just need to drill a hole in both materials. And insert standard anchors there, screw them in the typical way. When drilling, the thickness of drywall is not taken into account. The design will turn out to be strong and reliable, the boiler will be able to hang for years and not even tilt to either side.

Wood

Special shield that is installed through the wall

Buildings made of wood have excellent visual characteristics. But wood has never been able to work as a reliable supporting structure. Therefore, she simply can not hold a heavy boiler. But this is not the most important thing, you still need to think about security. Wood can easily catch fire, so when installing the boiler, some kind of non-combustible material is always used as a lining.

If your load-bearing wall is a wooden bar or log, then it will be able to withstand the largest water heater. Just screw in the L-shaped bracket and you're done. But you should understand that the wood wears out very quickly. When it loses its properties, the structure will begin to heel and may fall out. Therefore, experts advise using an additional shield.

It looks like a simple steel plate that can distribute the load over its entire area. Also, such a shield works as a lining to avoid fire. This option is ideal when it comes to interior wooden partitions. Partitions are very often made of a pillar, which is shingled and filled with clay and straw. In this case, you need to use a stud with a nut, we pass the tool through the partitions.

Lining

Lining is one of the most capricious materials and in this case, it makes no exceptions. Here you need to create a non-combustible lining, as in the previous version. But how to choose a mount is too difficult to give any advice. It is necessary to solve this issue individually, examining the circumstances.

The most optimal option, if you can fix it securely and tenaciously, is the installation of racks of timber. You can also use a profile tube. The design itself is usually painted in the color of the lining, so as not to spoil the overall style. Lining is the worst option for attaching a water heater. If there is no choice, then you need to think and decide, and if there is, then it is better to reconsider other options.

Plaster

Another material that is a very bad option. The wall will not be able to support a large boiler, no fastening will help. Therefore, it is often necessary to use the ceiling as an additional support. You need to get two metal tires. The first is attached to the floor beam and the concrete slab of the ceiling. The second one needs to be attached to the material itself, they do this using dowels.

Brick and cinder block

A mount that is ideal when using cinder blocks

If the wall is made of cinder block, then an anchor screw would be ideal. It will not help only if the material is of poor quality. If the blocks are porous, then they will not withstand the load. A pair of studs or bolts that need to be passed through the entire wall will help. Brick also has its own characteristics. If this is a silicate variety, then it is better to use an anchor screw or a stud with a collet. The construction will be very sturdy.

In this case, the supporting structure must be strong. The minimum wall thickness is measured very simply - no less than brick. If we are talking about red brick, then everything is much more complicated here. The material is weak and requires a welded frame or shield. Without this, the structure will simply break, ruining the entire brick when it falls.

If you have a thin wall, then you need to use additional shields or frames from the profile pipe. Often, anchors or studs are passed through to hold the structure as securely as possible. If the wall is made of concrete, then you need to build on the possibilities. There are just thousands of fasteners and the material gives the advantage of choice.

Features of installation work

Ideal fastening - dowels with plastic tips

First you need to choose the right installation location. It is worth considering the fact that water taps and an electrical panel should be nearby, this will increase ease of use. Also, the design itself should not take up too much space, it should look harmonious and not interfere with movement around the room. The first step is to check the strength. You need to draw a markup on the wall.

After that, the creation of holes begins, plastic dowels are driven in, a homemade shield is installed to improve strength. Each boiler model has several mounting plates with eyelets. They are in the back. Insert an anchor inside the hole and screw it into a plastic dowel. It is also recommended to use hooks, it is easier with them. Just hung the structure through the eyes and that's it.