How to insulate a wooden house outside. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside: methods and features of insulation, the choice of the optimal material Procedure for insulating a wooden house from the outside

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners on a lot decades and even often overstep the century. But sooner or later the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house outside becomes a necessary measure, since, under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the details of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold gets into the rooms without much difficulty. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and this will pay off already in the first winter.

Having carried out the exterior, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms, and update the exterior design of the building.

But, before buying material and getting to work, you need to find out which of the modern heaters is best suited for a wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to install it.

At the moment, the most popular materials for insulating wooden buildings from the outside are polystyrene foam in panels and various types of mineral wool, made in the form of mats or rolls. But, in addition to them, in recent years, sprayed insulation compounds, such as foam insulation or ecowool, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulation layer, but also a decorative finish, have been increasingly used.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. It has good performance characteristics and allows significant savings on heating.

Expanded polystyrene is produced by panels of various thickness, size 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, density from 15 to 40 kg / m³. For insulation outdoor work, material of average density - about 25kg / m³ and thickness from 50 mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density polystyrene foam is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is light, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, therefore it becomes a good barrier for both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and fasten to the wall. It is resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet light, and also almost does not absorb moisture, therefore it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, expanded polystyrene has its own significant disadvantages:

• low mechanical strength - the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, therefore, after fixing on the wall, it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and decorative coating;
• ordinary expanded polystyrene cannot be called non-combustible, and when exposed to high temperatures, it turns into a fluid burning mass and releases substances hazardous to the human body. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered nonflammable, or rather, self-extinguishing, and it is it that is recommended to be used to insulate wooden buildings.
• if you plan to fix the plates with glue, then you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with expanded polystyrene, since some substances destroy this material.

Rating of expanded polystyrene for the facade

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Characteristic:

• quantity per package 10 pcs;
• dimensions 100 × 120 cm;
• thickness 100 mm;
• the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 1.2 m²;
• area in the package 12 m²;
• applied
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W / (m⋅K).

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

• quantity in the package 7 pcs;
• dimensions 118 × 60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of \u200b\u200bone sheet 0.7 m²;
• package area 4.9 m²;
• for internal and external work;
• grooved plate;
• minimum operating temperature -50 ° C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 ° C.

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Xcharacteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity in the package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 118.5 × 58.5 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• area of \u200b\u200bone sheet 0.7 m²;
• area in the package 5.6 m²;
• for internal and external work;
• area of \u200b\u200bapplication: for floors, for walls, for ceilings, for roofs;
• grooved plate;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEKS 45

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity in the package 8 pcs;
• dimensions 240 × 60 cm;
• thickness 50 mm;
• the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 1.4 m²;
• packing area 11.2 m²;
• for external work;
• area of \u200b\u200bapplication: for floor, for roofing;
• grooved plate;
• maximum operating temperature 75 ° C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W / (m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEKS 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

• material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
• quantity in the package 20 pcs;
• dimensions 120 × 60 cm;
• thickness 20 mm;
• area of \u200b\u200bone sheet 0.7 m²;
• area in a package is 14 m²;
• for internal and external work;
• minimum operating temperature -70 ° C;
• maximum operating temperature 75 ° C;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W / (m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the lathing or directly on the wall plane with the help of glue and fasteners - "umbrellas" ("fungi"). The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built from a bar and its walls have flat surfaces, you can use both options, but it is easier to get by with glue.

1. Before installing the insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If there are any, then they must be repaired. The process can be carried out in various ways - this is plugging the cracks with tow, treated with lime or sealing with modern materials such as sealant or construction foam.
2. After that, the wooden surface must be processed - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold spots.
3. When the antiseptic is dry, you can start installing the insulation. To make it stick well to the wall, you can lightly walk on its surface with an iron brush.
4. Insulation installation starts from the bottom corner of the wall. For the convenience of fastening and the evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width that matches the thickness of the material.

• Plates are coated with a solution of special construction glue, pointwise and along the edge, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be tightly pressed against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and fixed to the wall, they must be sealed with mounting foam.

• After the first row has been removed, the subsequent rows are fastened according to the brickwork system, in a dressing.

• After waiting 3-4 days after mounting the plates to the wall, they must be fixed with fasteners-"mushrooms". Each slab must be fixed with 5-6 similar elements. The mountings should have a leg length several centimeters more than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the "fungus" should be chosen with a 100 mm leg. When hammered, the cap must enter the expanded polystyrene plate flush with its surface.

• When all the insulation is installed, you can start reinforcing the expanded polystyrene - this is done using a fiberglass mesh-serpyanka.

• On all corners of the building, you need to install special corners with a mesh fixed to them, they are fixed with glue.

• A wide mesh is fixed to the rest of the surface, which is realized in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm also on the glue mass. Serpyanka should, as it were, drown in the glue. Having fixed it on the surface of expanded polystyrene, they are passed over it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
• When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries out, the wall needs to be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, only decorative plastering can be done. finishing - siding or there will be simply nothing to fix the lining. But on the plastered walls, you can fix a light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles for brick or stone.

Find out detailed information with instructions on how, from our new article.

Since the installation work according to the second option (along the crate) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, they will be discussed below.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material, it is time-tested, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost its popularity at all.

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers held together by special compounds. Three different types of mineral wool are produced, and they differ in the basic material of manufacture - stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they also have other differences - moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influences, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

Slag

This material is made from blast-furnace slags, which after processing are drawn into fibers 10 to 20 mm long and up to 10 microns thick.

When choosing insulation for the facade, this option must be abandoned immediately, since it is hydroscopic. If moisture gets on it, it can lead to mold inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to the metal profile, an oxidative reaction may occur, since the slags have residual acidity in their composition.

Slag wool has a sufficiently high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic, it is also not quite suitable for insulating the walls of private houses.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting molten glass, the fiber length of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is not more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it is lightweight and resilient. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and thanks to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and more durable. It not only insulates the walls well, but also perfectly protects from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install it between the lathing bars.

Disadvantage - when installing it, you need to carefully protect your eyes, face and hands, respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they get on fabrics, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

Stone wool

Basalt rocks are used as raw materials for the manufacture of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, so it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of cotton wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Due to all its positive characteristics, it is excellent for facade insulation.

Basalt wool is produced in the form of rolls or slabs, it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types of mineral wool are classified by hardness. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for facade insulation. For such work, you need to choose a material of the ПЖ-175 brand - this is a rigid plate, or ППЖ -200, which means an increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

• Installation of an insulating layer of mineral wool is carried out with a crate installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with expanded polystyrene. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
• In this case, a crate made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which the plate or roll insulation is fixed.

• In order to achieve the best insulation effect and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is advised to pre-fix the vapor barrier material under the crate.
• It must be remembered that the lathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be less than the width of the insulation by 5 cm. This is required so that it fits tightly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be mounted in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the bars to be installed - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

• There are several ways how to fix the crate, and which one to choose is up to the owner of the house, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
• After installing the battens of the sheathing, insulation mats are laid between them, starting from the bottom row. In order for them not to slip, you can connect all the bars from below with a support rail.

• In the event that roll material is used, the installation begins from the top, securing the upper edge to the "mushrooms". The rest of the fixing elements will be installed later.
• Then, the installed insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. It often completely covers the entire wall, fixing it on the bars with staples. Sometimes it fits only on the insulation, but the first option is preferable.

• Further, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is fixed to the wall with "fungi".
• Decorative trim is fixed on top of the lathing - it can be siding or lining. Installation rules for such finishes are considered separately, in other publications.

• If the lathing is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It also happens differently - with insulation in two layers. First, the first lathing is done horizontally, then, after the first layer of insulation has been laid, a second lathing is mounted along the beams, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool - everything is the same as described above.

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Sprayed heaters

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, recently they began to use liquid insulation, which is sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such insulation, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative to mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam

A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected for many years from negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures.

However, this method of spraying is rarely used, since it requires special equipment and good skills, and it is quite expensive to invite a professional with special equipment. Nevertheless, it should be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches fifty years, while other heaters become unusable after a shorter period. Therefore, having once spent on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, resistance to almost any external influences.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

• excellent adhesion when applied;
• lack of fasteners;
• the material penetrates into all the small holes and crevices of the wall, preventing cold air from entering the inside of the building;
• compatibility with any materials;
• the formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
• the coating does not require repair and renovation for many years;
• it does not grow mold and is not damaged by rodents.

Polyurethane foam application

Any surface for mounting sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of such a size are nailed to its surface, what thickness is planned to arrange a spraying layer - this will become a kind of beacons. The protruding solidified areas of the foam will be cut along these guidelines.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure - more than 100 atmospheres. The master uses a pneumatic gun to spray the material on the wall surface. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2–3 seconds. The setting and curing of the polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the desired effects of heat and sound insulation, the coating must be sprayed in three layers.

Spray-on polyurethane is classified into indoor and outdoor materials. For external application we use "Ecotermix 300", "HEATLOK SOY"

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane to wooden walls from the inside of a house. The spraying process on the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is a heat-insulating and sound-insulating material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its manufacture is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid, which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like a gray powder.

The ecological purity of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds and petroleum products, other substances capable of emitting vapors hazardous to human health.

When the material is applied to the surface, it fills all holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Borax and boric acid additives are excellent antiseptics for insulation that do not allow any forms of biological life to dilute in its thickness.

An important positive quality of ecowool for a wooden building is its heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Applying an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a crate of the required size is fixed to it - it will regulate the thickness of the spraying. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that the not completely solidified material does not slide out from under its own weight.

For spraying ecowool on walls, a special installation is required, into the bunker of which dry material is poured. There it is loosened and moistened, and is applied to the surface through a special gun under pressure. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the above materials and technologies, today there are many other heaters. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy costs every day, then you can always find a material suitable for all criteria.

How to deal with the required thickness of the insulation?

The thickness of the insulating layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic characteristics of the region of residence.

It is important to know the required thickness of insulation. An excessive "fur coat" can only damage a wooden house, and an insufficient one will not allow creating comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the structure of the frame - it is important to know how far from the wall its guides should be placed under the outer one. Making independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The bottom line is what total resistance to heat transfer of a multi-layer structure wall R should not be less than calculated for a specific climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values \u200b\u200bare plotted on the RF map. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also the interior decoration (if there is one and is it planned, the thermal insulation layer and the external decoration of the facade (it is important - the external decoration, made according to the principle of the ventilated facade) is not taken into account. For each layer, its thermal index is calculated resistance.

An example is the following diagram:

1 - wooden wall (timber or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of the log wall (on the right) may be slightly less than that of the timber. It is worth paying attention to when measuring and further calculations.

2 - walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the premises are left not sheathed - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they may well be sheathed with drywall (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural clapboard or wood composite panels, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - The layer of thermal insulation - it is its thickness that must be determined.

The design can have several layers. So, if the outside provides for a cladding without a ventilated gap, close to the thawing material (for example, using natural boards or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also marked:

4 — vapor permeable diffuse membrane.

5 - details of the frame (lathing).

6 - siding or lining, mounted on the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). Such a finish, as already mentioned, from what material it would be made, will not make any tangible contribution to the total thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of their thermal conductivity.

Rn \u003d Hn / λn

• Hn- the thickness of a particular layer.
• λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form

Hу \u003d (R– H1 / λ1 - H2 / λ2 - H3 / λ3 ...) × λу

• Well- the thickness of the insulation.
• λуIs the thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected thermal insulation material.

Finding coefficients for various materials is not difficult in the reference literature - there are a lot of it on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of the existing layers is also not difficult.

Proponents of timber construction fall into two categories:

1. Those who already have a house made of wood
2. And those who want to build it.

If the latter ask the former for advice, the variety of answers will confuse anyone.

Fortunately, we have built and commissioned many wooden houses.

Moreover, we have been operating many houses for many years. Each type has its own advantages, disadvantages and nuances.

But there is one thing that unites them - this is the material!)

The physical properties of wood have been known for a long time, as well as their disadvantages!

We will not delve into the intricacies of the construction of different types of wooden houses now and talk about houses sheathed with siding, a blockhouse, imitation of a bar and so on ...

These technologies are already many years old, they have been worked out, and their price and disadvantages are on everyone's lips. Although, before finishing types of work, insulation is still going on.

The conversation in the article will focus on options for insulating the facade of a wooden house.

What is the fundamental difference between the insulation of a wooden house and the insulation of a house made of blocks or bricks?

1. A wooden house, due to the physical properties of wood, is more unstable.
2. Wood is a hygroscopic material.
3. The tree needs "constant airing", otherwise it will just start to rot.

Regardless of the options for finishing a wooden house, the insulation will be the same!

It is done according to the same principle, regardless of the final finish.

So, we properly insulate a wooden house!

First, you need to recall the principle: insulation must be done from the outside.

This is done mainly to maintain a relatively stable temperature of the tree at all seasons.

I think no one will argue that the temperature fluctuations in the house are much less than on the street!).

Now to the point. Before starting work on insulation, it is necessary to "dig in" and treat the house with "fire" and "biological protection". Do not neglect either one or the other.

After the aforementioned processing, we proceed with the installation of the first layer of the “cake” for warming the wooden house.

I also note that it is worth starting to insulate a wooden house no earlier than a year later, preferably two, after construction.

The first layer is vapor barrier.

You can read more about the types of vapor barrier and its correct application.

If one layer of insulation will be used in your house, as a rule no longer required, then we proceed with the installation of a vapor barrier of any type ("B", "C", "D" or "E") except for "A".

We mount the vapor barrier with the smooth side to the street, using a construction stapler and, preferably, galvanized staples 6-8mm.

The roll is unrolled horizontally with an overlap of at least 10 cm on the previous bottom layer.

I note that the vapor barrier should be tight and not have folds. It is very important!

In places adjacent to the roof, windows, doors and basement, it is necessary to bring the vapor barrier to the insulation of the roof, windows, etc. and leave a "margin" of about 10 cm.

After the first layer of vapor barrier is mounted, we begin the installation of insulation.

Installation of insulation on the wall of a wooden house.

Insulation for the walls of a wooden house must be rolled! Required density M15! The desired thickness of the insulation is 50 mm. These are standard parameters, and there will be no problems with finding material.

Why roll insulation and not mats? Everything is very simple: the insulation must be installed in the same way as the vapor barrier, "overlap"! With "mats" this is simply impossible! Of course, there are mats of low density m15, but with their use the material consumption will be terrifying!

If you mount the mats, "knocking them tightly together," then after a year or two, gaps will appear between them anyway, and to eliminate this you will have to remove the house trim. This is not an assumption, it is the realities of life, repeatedly, to the great chagrin that took place!

Below are photos from the series "HOW NOT TO BE DONE!"

We roll the roll vertically with an overlap of at least 10 cm. Why is an overlap of 10 cm, you will understand a little later. We fix the insulation with the same construction stapler, "loading" longer staples 14-16mm into it.

We also turn the insulation to the windows, doors, roof and plinth, leaving a margin of 10-15 cm.

So, the house is sheathed with thermal insulation, we proceed to the next stage:

The second layer of vapor barrier.

The last layer of vapor barrier is always "A". We unwind it in the same way as the first layer using long staples.

There is nothing tricky here. Don't forget that smooth side to the street!

After installing the vapor barrier, it is necessary to fix the insulation itself at the joints. To do this, use an ordinary bar, for example, 30x30, simply nailing it with nails or screwing it with screws to the wall of the house.

As can be seen from the above, the process is not at all complicated. However, at the same time we get a guaranteed windproof (and at the same time vapor-permeable) "breathable" wall.

At the same time (which is important!), The rolled material of the insulation more than compensates for all the inevitable mechanical vibrations of a wooden house for its entire service life.

Two correctly installed vapor barrier layers keep the insulation dry, which means it retains its physical properties.

You should end up with something similar to this:

I hope everything was clear and reasonable, and the article was useful for you!

After warming, you can proceed directly to

The new SNiP on thermal protection, put into effect since 2003, imposes strict requirements on the thermal insulation of wooden walls. If before a house made of 200 mm thick timber or logs with a diameter of 280 mm "fit" into the standards, now they no longer meet the new standard. Of course, the owners of existing buildings may not do anything, but it must be borne in mind that investing in the insulation of a wooden house is cheap compared to bills for heating and air conditioning for several years. Let's consider how and how to insulate a wooden house outside, so that it is of high quality, and the house does not lose its ecological properties.

Thermal insulation of wooden walls

Warming methods

According to the current regulations, there are three types of external wall structures according to the number of layers.

Single layer. Bearing and thermal insulation properties are combined at the level of the building material of the enclosing structure. For stone houses, you can give an example of a porous large-format ceramic block or foam concrete block. For timber frame houses, these are SIP panels.

With a thickness of expanded polystyrene in SIP panels from 20 cm, the house will be warm in any frost

As a reference! The new standards are so strict that these walls may need to be insulated if the thickness of the base material is insufficient.

Three-layer. Walls in which structural materials with a thickness of at least 50 mm serve as the outer layer relative to the insulation, fixed to the base by point ties. A classic example is a brick-clad insulated house. You can find such examples of envelope wall designs for timber houses. And in this case, we are talking about brick cladding, since cladding with an imitation of a bar or block house, by definition, is not suitable due to the thickness of the outer layer.

Two-layer with external thermal insulation. This is the most common way of warming a wooden house. Moreover, such a design can be without an air gap or with a ventilated air gap.

Classic mineral wool insulation scheme with wood siding

We can talk about four options for how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

"Wet facade";

hinged facade;

spray heat insulation

brick cladding.

The standards indicate another type of design - with an unventilated air gap. But such insulation of a wooden house is not recommended due to the peculiarities of the material itself.

Features of wood as a wall material

Regardless of the structural materials of the walls, when warming a building, it is important to comply with the following rules formulated at the SNiP level:

thermal insulation must be reliably protected from moisture penetration into it;

access of water vapor to thermal insulation should be as limited as possible;

the location of the layers should ensure the drying of the structure and prevent the accumulation of moisture in it.

The first rule is technically simple. The exterior finish protects from contact with atmospheric moisture, the properties of which can be enhanced with a waterproofing membrane.

Video Description

Another option to protect the tree from moisture in the video:

Protection against water vapors penetrating from inside the house is provided by appropriate vapor-tight membranes that do not interfere with the "breathing" of wooden walls, but retain larger water molecules in the warm air of the heated room. And here there is some contradiction with the requirement for the location of the layers, which should ensure the weathering of water vapor from the structure.

Wood is an unusual building material - it easily absorbs atmospheric moisture and just as easily gives it away. But if a vapor-tight membrane is fixed outside the wall, then the natural moisture transfer will be disrupted, and this is bad for wooden structures, which, when wet, begin to rot. Therefore, many experts advise not to use films outside as waterproofing (only membranes) for wooden walls, but to refuse vapor-tight membranes altogether, so as not to interfere with water vapor from the wall and insulation in both directions.

Note! If you look at the sites of the leading manufacturers of ready-made systems for plastering and curtain facades (Knauf, Ceresit, Scanroc), then none of them have a vapor-proof membrane in the structure of the "pie" to protect the insulation.

Factory facade systems do not provide for a vapor-tight membrane between the wall and the insulation

And the same requirements for the drying of the structure impose restrictions on the choice of insulation.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can talk directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

The choice of insulation for the walls of a wooden house

Not a single regulatory document explicitly prohibits the use of foam. Moreover, expanded polystyrene is indicated as insulation for a wooden house in all acceptable types of structures. But its vapor permeability is much less than that of a tree across the fibers (not to mention the direction along the fibers). And if used as thermal insulation, it will completely block the weathering of water vapor from the wooden wall to the outside.

Video Description

We will dwell on the insulation of the house with foam. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Penoplex, aka extruded polystyrene foam, differs from the usual only in production technology, and its vapor permeability is just as low. Therefore, this popular “wet facade” insulation material is not suitable for two-layer insulation of wooden walls.

The same arguments work against the use of sprayed PU foam. And if there are some seams and cracks during the installation of expanded polystyrene, then the seamless "shell" of the vapor-tight insulation will completely exclude the possibility of excess moisture escaping outward.

This method of insulation excludes the possibility of natural ventilation of wooden walls

Mineral wool is best suited to the "drying of the structure" conditions. If we talk about fire safety, then by this parameter it is most suitable for warming a wooden house. And of the three types of mineral wool, stone is usually used. It is more difficult to work with glass wool - during fitting and installation of small fragments of fiberglass, small crumbs are formed, which are dangerous for the skin and respiratory tract. Slag wool is not recommended for insulating residential buildings due to its low environmental qualities.

Sprayed thermal insulation is an eco-wool with a "wet" technology for applying to walls.

It looks like the technology of insulation with eco-cotton wool (wet method)

Preparatory stage

Before warming a wooden house from the outside, the facade must be prepared.

There is a standard set of events for any type of building, which is to free the surface from the mounted elements. And there are works characteristic of a wooden house - checking the condition of interventional heaters, caulking (if necessary) and antiseptic treatment.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house does not exclude the need for caulking the interconnections

Preparatory work should be carried out in dry weather. This is especially important for impregnating the top layer of wood with an antiseptic. The process of processing itself consists in applying the solution according to the "staining" method, and if the capillaries of the upper layer contain water, the antiseptic will not be absorbed into the wood properly.

Antiseptic treatment is a mandatory stage before insulation and cladding of wooden walls with facade panels

Features of the "wet facade"

When fixing mineral wool to the wall in the "wet facade" system, an adhesive solution and mechanical fasteners are used. Moreover, glue plays a major role, since the number of metal heat-conducting inclusions in thermal insulation should be limited. And so that the slabs of hard stone wool mats can be securely fixed, the wall must be sufficiently flat or have slight differences in "relief" in height, which can be corrected with a layer of adhesive mortar. Only timber houses meet this condition.

The surface of the walls made of logs must be leveled. This can be done with OSB, moisture-proof plywood or gypsum board for exterior decoration (recently, Knauf presented this type of GCR). But plywood and OSB do not meet the requirements for vapor permeability of the front finish of a wooden house, and in any case, lining is necessary for leveling. And the use of lathing and additional materials crosses out the advantage of a “wet facade” over a ventilated one - a relatively low cost.

Use "wet facade" for additional insulation of frame houses. And if one of the types of polymeric materials was used as an internal insulation for a thin-sheet structure of enclosing surfaces, then foam can be used for external insulation - it will not worsen the vapor permeability of the walls.

You can also insulate a frame house with foam

There are peculiarities in the methods of fastening the insulation to wooden walls, when instead of dowels they use self-tapping screws, and the adhesive solution is highly elastic.

The rest of the insulation technology has a standard work sequence:

On the perimeter of the cap (grillage), the starting bar is fixed.

Mount the bottom row of stone wool mats. Use glue and at least 5 pcs. screws on 1 m².

When installing the next rows, the vertical seams are shifted by at least 20 cm.

Openings of windows and doors in the corners should not have intersecting seams of insulation sheets.

The surface is reinforced with fiberglass mesh, and the corners with a perforated corner. An adhesive solution is used to fix the reinforcing elements.

A solution layer is again applied over the mesh (total thickness should be about 6 cm), the surface is leveled, and after drying it is ground.

Plaster and paint the facade.

Video Description

Clearly about the wet facade in the video:

How to insulate a wooden house with foam

If desired, you can find examples of the use of polystyrene to insulate a wooden house from the outside. Moreover, there is a technology that does not impair the "breathing" properties of the walls and the level of comfort, which is ensured by natural gas exchange between the premises and the street. This is achieved by creating a ventilated gap between the insulation and the wall. And in this case, it does not matter what the walls are made of - from a beam or log.

In order not to worsen the "breathing" properties of a wooden house, a ventilated gap must be created between the foam and the wall

Video Description

In our video, we will look at how polystyrene is produced, is polystyrene harmful and where is it used?

In a section, the design looks like this:

main wall;

lathing from a bar with a height of at least 60 mm (minimum size for a ventilated gap);

fastening insulation to the crate (expanded polystyrene, EPS);

finishing with facade panels or a layer of plaster reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

But once again it must be emphasized that this method of insulation will not be cheaper than a ventilated facade. In addition, it violates the recommendations of the standards, which indicate that the air gap should be located between the insulation and the outer layer.

Video Description

What happens if it is wrong to insulate with polystyrene - in the video:

Features of the curtain facade

In this case, the requirements for the tensile strength of the insulation surface are not as high as those of the “wet facade”, so the density of the mats can be less than 125 kg / m³, but higher than 80 kg / m³.

Attention! Choosing how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, you need to know that the use of rolled mineral wool in curtain walls is not recommended by regulatory documents.

There are ready-made curtain wall systems with their own attachment subsystem, a set of panels and fasteners. The only drawback of such systems is the need for individual adjustment to the specific geometry of the house and walls. As a rule, these systems are designed for houses made of bricks or building blocks, and they use aluminum sandwich panels, artificial stone, porcelain tiles as cladding.

For cladding of wooden houses usually use imitation of timber, block house, plank, siding. That is, those materials that are more consistent with the aesthetics of a wooden house.

If you want to change the decorative qualities of a wooden house, you can use artificial stone facade panels for cladding

The most widespread practice of making a lathing from a wooden bar - it is easy to adapt to the surface of the walls, easier to fix, it does not change its size when the temperature changes and does not serve as a "cold bridge".

Wooden crate is the easiest option

The only drawback of wooden structures is their low resistance to moisture. Therefore, both the elements of the lathing and the finishing panels made of natural wood must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

As a result - what other options you can consider

The article described only two of the most common ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside. What will be better in your case and other options should be discussed with the developer who knows the local conditions. The use of eco-cotton wool has not yet become widespread, although the technology is quite simple - mounting the crate to the wall, applying it to the surface using special equipment in a “wet” form (mixed with glue), and cladding with facade panels on the crate. Facing with bricks on flexible bonds follows the same rules as for a stone house, with the only restriction on the choice of insulation - the use of only mineral wool.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the whole process, during the installation of any type of insulation there are a sufficient number of pitfalls that must be taken into account so that all work is not done in vain. If there is no experience, then it is always better to invite a professional, especially since self-respecting developers perform all work under a contract and give a guarantee.

The internal insulation has a lot of shortcomings, among whichis worth first of all, highlight the formation of condensation. Therefore, your house, especially a wooden one, should be insulated from the outside - in this case, the internal temperature of the walls will drop very slowly. In this case, the location of the cold zone will fall out onto the inside of the insulation, so it will not touch the wooden walls.

It is better to combine home insulation with a vapor-insulating material installed from the inside - this will not only prevent the penetration of cold from the outside, but also will not allow condensate to accumulate in the structure and destroy it. As a result, the house will be warm and the humidity level will always be normal.

Note! A small air gap should always be left between the wooden wall and the insulation, otherwise mold will appear there and the structure will collapse sooner or later.

The modern building materials market offers a wide range of insulation materials, among which everyone can choose a suitable option both in quality and in cost. The most popular of them today is mineral wool, so let's start with it.

The main advantage of this material is fire safety, which, in fact, makes it so popular. Moreover, the mineral wool provides good ventilation, prevents the formation of rot and fungi, and also conducts heat well.

Minuses:

• the material easily loses its original shape;
• it is short-lived - after a year of operation, almost half of its properties are lost.

The average cost of a cubic meter of mineral wool is about 1,500 rubles. This figure varies in one direction or another, depending on the manufacturer and the technical characteristics of the material.

Another option that you can resort to when insulating a house made of wood. The foam is made up of many granules filled with air, which provides lightness and good thermal insulation.

Pros:

• excellent sound insulating properties;
• long operational period;
• ease of installation;
• resistance to deformation and decay;
• high density;
• resistance to temperature changes.

Minuses:

• environmental insecurity;
• tendency to quickly burn.

But the main drawback of the material can be considered that it cannot be used when insulating wooden houses due to poor vapor permeability, etc.

A square meter of polystyrene costs from 50 to 300 rubles, depending on the thickness and the firm producing the spruce.

Penoplex is also widely used in building insulation. It is produced by extrusion, resulting in a material of uniform consistency. The advantages of the material include:

• environmental friendliness;
• incombustibility;
• safety;
• ease of use;
• water-repellent characteristics (due to the fact that there are no micropores in the cells);
• the ability to withstand heavy physical exertion;
• durability, resistance to decay;
• low thermal conductivity.

Minuses:

• upon contact with solvents of organic origin, the material is destroyed;
• difficulties arise when trimming and fitting;
• vapor resistance can sometimes be more of a minus than a plus.

A cubic meter of penoplex costs about 4,000 rubles. Warming a wooden house with such material is effective, but very expensive.

Note! If you want to insulate your house and protect it without spending a lot of money on it, then it is recommended to pay attention to mineral wool. The technology below is based on the use of this material.

Isoplate is made from coniferous trees, and no chemical binders are added. Due to this, the plate does not dry out and does not deform with time. In addition, Izoplat is environmentally friendly and as effective as the tree itself.

Pros:

• thermal insulation: 12 mm slab \u003d 44 mm solid wood
• sound insulation from -23 dB
• elasticity: the slab adheres tightly to the frame, breaking cold bridges at the joints
• vapor permeability: slabs removes excess moisture from the wall, preventing the formation of mold and mildew in the house
• ease of installation: Isoplat is pressed against the wall and nailed, the ventilated facade is installed on top and that's it. No more materials and work will be required.
• paraffin impregnation: protects walls from atmospheric humidity
• 100% environmentally friendly

Minuses:

• - A higher price compared to other materials, but it will pay off, since Isoplat is guaranteed to “work” for more than 70 years and no alterations will be needed.

The first stage of work consists in preparing the necessary tools and building materials.

What will be required in work

When warming the house you will need:

• mineral wool;
• scotch;
• wooden slats (250 mm thick);
• nails
• polyethylene film;
• staples;
• boards, approximately 10x5mm;
• slats, 5x3 cm;
• waterproofing.

And now - directly to work.

First step. Surface preparation

At the end of the installation, the outer walls of the house will remain closed, so first they should be protected from harmful microorganisms and decay. For this purpose, special compositions are applied to the surface, which must be allowed to completely dry. Usually it takes a little time and after a few days you can start editing.

Second phase. Vapor barrier

Wooden houses are good because they do not need a layer of air between the vapor barrier and the outer surface of the walls. For this reason, you can immediately attach the plastic wrap. Wooden slats are nailed to a flat surface (approximately every meter), to which a layer of vapor barrier is attached with brackets. This distance is necessary to ensure adequate ventilation. Holes are made from below and above between the slats to exclude the possibility of moisture accumulation and to increase the intensity of air circulation.

The points of attachment of the film to the slats must be sealed with tape, which will protect the insulation from moisture penetration.

Stage three. Frame construction

Next, you need to create a wireframe. The boards should be beaten, being installed "on the edge", with a step of 1.5-2 cm smaller than the width of the insulation plate. By the way, mineral wool has sufficient rigidity to be laid in a frame without additional fasteners. In any case, the sheets of material will not slide.

Note! Professionals advise installing two layers of insulation in our climate zone at once. It is characteristic that the joints between the slabs of the first and second layers should not coincide.

Fourth stage. Waterproofing

The final stage of work is the installation of waterproofing designed to protect the insulation from moisture penetration. The membrane is ideal for this - its special structure provides air access, thereby creating additional ventilation, and at the same time does not allow moisture to pass to the mineral wool.

Waterproofing must be attached to the frame in the same way as vapor barrier. This creates a 2-cm overlap at the joints. The joints themselves are glued with tape to ensure tightness.

Fifth stage. Ventilated facade

If you do all these procedures, then a ventilated facade is created in parallel. It is designed to circulate air flow between the waterproofing and the outer surface finish. For this reason, an additional wireframe layer needs to be created. A similar crate is being built, but this time the slats are used of a different size - 3x5 cm. A fine-mesh iron mesh is installed at the bottom of the frame, which will prevent the penetration of insects and small rodents.

Sixth stage. Facade finishing

What material will be used for finishing the facade depends entirely on the design features, financial capabilities and personal wishes of the owner. For example, to give your home an attractive look, you can:

• sheathe lining;
• trim it with facade tiles;
• sheathe boards;
• build vinyl siding.

Siding is considered the most suitable option, but when installing it, you need to adhere to some rules.

1. First of all, when finishing with siding, you should move from bottom to top.
2. It is imperative to leave a gap of 1 cm between the panels of the material.
3. To fix the siding, you must use nails or screws.

Possible mounting options

Before you start insulating a wooden house, you need to find out what its bearing capacity is. In the construction of simple frame buildings, a strip foundation is mainly used. Therefore, in this case, it will be necessary to install an additional base, made in the form of a strip under the cladding. It is desirable that the base is directly connected to the foundation.

The insulating layer is attached to the frame, we have already talked about this.

Sometimes, when insulating, a hinged frame is used, for the manufacture of which perforated aluminum profiles were used. Also, external walls can be insulated with light materials, for example, pressed flax or wood chips. Of course, the effectiveness of these materials cannot be compared with mineral wool or foam.

In conclusion

Quality insulation is available today to every owner of a wooden house. If you carry out all the work correctly, the result will be not only a cozy atmosphere, but also significant budget savings. Moreover, such a house will look beautiful and presentable - in any case, the owner will have something to be proud of.

Video - Insulation of the walls of a wooden house

- This is the placement of the thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to minimize heat loss as much as possible by supplementing the internal thermal insulation with the external one. We will figure out how and how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of various materials.

The specifics of warming frame houses outside

In rapidly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of a heat insulator is assigned directly to the wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the frame posts and closed with a rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards, etc.

However, if the work is of poor quality, the thickness or density of the heat insulator is incorrectly selected, the house can poorly retain heat. To reduce energy costs and improve the indoor climate in winter, additional insulation is required.

A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:

1. Low thermal conductivity. Among heaters this property can boast:, polystyrene and mineral wool.
2. Minimal water absorption. Despite the additional protection of the insulating layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
3. Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not promote the spread of fire and does not smoke much when burning.
4. Low weight. Frameworks are built on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.

In addition, the facade insulation for the exterior of the house must keep the linear dimensions well and not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.

The choice of thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials

The best option for insulation for outdoor use in frame construction is basalt wool. The material is heat-efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. With a limited budget, foam or extruded polystyrene foam with fire retardants is suitable.

Video: "wet" facade insulation