The roof is 4 x pitched. We build a hipped roof with our own hands. Installation of a strapping bar on walls

For roofs consisting of 4 slopes, the rafter system is hanging and layered. It all depends on the method of fastening the rafters. As for the hanging system, its installation is very difficult, and its repair is quite difficult. A similar system is used in buildings where there are no walls inside. For her, the outer walls play the role of support.

The overhead system is easier to install and cheaper in terms of investment. A similar design is used when a support wall passes in the middle of the building, and there are also intermediate support reinforced concrete pillars. Such a support increases the length of the span covered by the layered rafters. Often, if the roof slope is less than 40 degrees, this particular system is used.

Types of hipped roofs

Roofs with a four-pitched structure are different types... They are divided into:

hip;
tent;
half-hip.

Hip roofs

The plane of 2 of the 4 slopes of such a roof is made in the form of a trapezoid, and the other 2 - in the form of a triangle. The latter are called "hips". This design is not equipped with gables. Attic windows or dormers are installed on slopes.

Hipped roofs

In this design, the plane of the 4 triangular slopes are joined at the top. Because of this, it turns out pyramid, consisting of 4 corners, at the base of which is a rectangle or square. There are also no pediments here.

Semi-hip roofs

Here the hip plane will be a broken line, consisting of 2 parts: the upper one - triangularand the lower one is trapezoidal.

Features of the design of rafters for a hip-type roof

The rafters of such a roof have 4 diagonal legs. They rest against the corners of the house with the bottom, and on top they converge in pairs in the skates of the supports. For rafters located diagonally, the support is:

frame house - the top of the frame mounts;
house made of wood - the top of the walls outside;
brick house - Mauerlat.

Mauerlat is wooden beams 100 × 100 m m. Its direct function is to separate the centralized load from the rafters onto the walls. In addition, it keeps the roof from falling off when strong wind... For this reason, such a piece must be screwed to the wall with wire loops.

The run of the skates, which is the basis for the rafters at the top, is a wooden beam, the cross-section of which coincides with the rafters on the diagonal. Instead of a brick pediment, the supports for such beams are wooden rack 100 × 100 mm, pitch 3-4 m.

In terms of length, the rafters are superior to others, and the load from the rafters is also transferred to them. It so happens that, in general, the load on the rafter diagonally is 1.5 times higher than on the others.

Hip roof slopes are obtained thanks to intermediate rafters... They are attached to each other using a Mauerlat, as well as skate beams. The distance between them should be 100−120 cm. The section of these elements is calculated separately, depending on the loads that fall on them.

Rafters from the corners have a shorter length, so they are often called " half-legged". The butt at the top of the corner rafters rests against the diagonal, and at the bottom against the Mauerlat.

Features of the rafter system for hipped roof type

Rafter system 4 pitched roof hipped type is distinguished by such features. The structure rests on 4 retaining walls. All of them should have mauerlat, it transfers the load to the retaining walls. The Mauerlat must be rigidly attached to the wall using metal structures that extend deep into the walls.

Often, external walls keep the Mauerlat from horizontal movement. At the top of the wall, where the Mauerlat is held, an opening is left inside the masonry.

If the roof is not different large size, then there is no obligatory use of long Mauerlats, you can simply use a short beam, which is connected in the corner of the roof at an angle of 90 degrees. But note that then diagonal reinforcement is required.

In the roof of the tent type 4 slant rafters.They are attached to the corner of the roof base, and they converge where the Mauerlat connects. At the top, the rafters converge at one point. Oblique rafters are layered type (in the presence of load-bearing walls) or hanging... If a layered rafter structure is used, then it will be lighter in weight, but withstand high loads.

To increase the rigidity, the Mauerlat is connected diagonally with jumpers. Often this reinforcement is required with a short Mauerlat.

By design, these systems can be divided into:

hanging;
layered.

The first are beams, with 2 anchor points in the form of walls. In this case, there are 2 types of loads on the leg: bending and compression.The distribution of the load horizontally by hanging rafters is performed on their anchor points. To reduce this effect, they need to be connected with a metal or wood tie.

Inclined rafters are a beam with an intermediate support, which has supports on the walls inside the building or additional supporting elements. The main influence on the support is bending. To create a carrier roof structure can be used layered, if intermediate supports are located between themselves no morethan 6.5 meters.

If you decide to create a rafter system for a 4-pitched roof with your own hands, then it is important for you to know general rules , if you follow them, your work will be successful:

Choose for yourself suitable view rafter systems.
Make roof drawing.
Determine the future angle of inclination of the roof.
Choose a variety rafter system... If the house small sizethen a hanging system will do. In the case of a larger structure, a layered one is required.
Calculate the required footage of material, the thickness of the board and beams.
Buy all the tools.
It is better to assemble the main part of the rafter structure on the ground, and then lift it up and continue to mount the rest of it.
Attach all elements securely to each other.
Stick everyone safety regulations, because the work is being done at a height.

After publishing an article about construction gable roof with my own hands, a lot of letters began to come to my post office asking me to show how the hipped roof is being erected. Indeed, this version of the rafter system is quite popular, but its construction is more difficult than the same gable roof or even a broken one.

This difficulty is associated with the presence of corner rafters in the structure. In different sources they are called differently - diagonal, oblique, hip ... I will use the term angular for simplicity.

When describing the construction of a gable roof, I also used a structure in which the rafters are supported by the floor beams of the floor located below. Now, for a change, we will consider an example where the rafters rest directly on the Mauerlat.

So, let's say we have the foot of a house measuring 7x11 meters. Its height is 3.5 meters. We will have an unheated attic under the roof. The pictures below show how we installed the attic floor and Mauerlat (to enlarge the images, click on the picture).

The calculation of the cross-section of the floor beams was made in the program described. I chose a section of 100x200 mm.

The beams were calculated as loaded with a distributed load. The step of the beams is the maximum possible with such a section of 0.7 meters. When calculating attic floors, I always use a standard distributed load of 300 kg / m². Here 200 kg / m² is the weight of the floor itself with insulation and 100 kg / m² is added as a temporary load from people who will move along the floors during the construction of the roof and possibly during operation (some store various things in the attic).

The design load “Load (calc.)” Is determined by an increase in the standard load (in this case by 10%) to provide a greater safety margin.

In order to evenly distribute the load, we installed the floor beams on a board with a section of 50x150 mm. This is especially important for the load-bearing partition, because in addition to the floors themselves, it will also bear part of the load from the roof. Used as a bar 100x150 mm.

Any hip hip roof begins with the installation of a ridge bar. Accordingly, we need to base it on. If a load-bearing partition is located under the ridge beam, then everything is simple - we rely on it.

In our example, the load-bearing partition in the house is located perpendicular to the future ridge. It is impossible to support the skate on the floor beams, because their cross section was not calculated for this. Therefore, we proceed as follows. On the Mauerlat, we install a supporting beam strictly in the middle. It consists of two boards with a section of 50x200 mm (see pictures). The gap between them is 50 mm. Why exactly two boards - it will be clear below.

Pay attention to where the inserts are located between the boards (right picture - the size of 676 cm was measured with a tape measure; dividing this value by 2 and subtracting 2.5 cm from it - we get the desired size). These inserts are made from 50x150 mm board scraps and are firmly stitched with nails.

Now we collect the so-called "bench". Racks made of boards 50x150 mm, ridge beam made of boards 50x200 mm. We put the racks strictly vertically along the level (or plumb line) on the inserts shown above. Each leg is fixed with temporary braces (the figure shows braces on only one rack). All connections are made with self-tapping screws so that they can be easily disassembled. Why - it will be clear further.

The height of the racks is determined in the manner described in the article about the sloping mansard roof. Those. before starting construction, it is necessary to draw on paper a sketch of the box of the house and the future roof on paper (the larger the drawing, the more visual it is). The sketch is drawn based on personal aesthetic preferences.

From the resulting diagram, we determine the height of the racks. In this example, I am quite satisfied with the 2.5 meter high racks.

The next step will be the manufacture and installation of rafters abutting against the ridge beam. In order not to get confused, let's call them ordinary rafters. The calculation showed that as ordinary rafters in our example (region - Nizhny Novgorod region, roof - metal tile), you can use boards with a section of 50x150 mm with a step of 0.6 meters.

To begin with, we will make a template from an inch board 25x150 mm. The order of its marking is shown in the figures below:

Let me explain a little. Take an inch board of suitable length. We apply it as shown in the left picture. We cut out the upper cut as shown in the middle figure using any bar 5 cm high. This height is equal to the depth of the cut of the rafter at its junction with the Mauerlat. Usually I take this depth equal to about one third of the height of the rafter section. That is, for example, if the rafters were from a board of 50x200 mm, then the wash would be 7 cm deep.

The lower part of the template is marked in accordance with the right figure. I washed down the rafters on the Mauerlat again using any block 5 cm high.Then, measuring 40 cm from the outer surface of the wall (our eaves overhang will be this width), draw a vertical line along the level or plumb line.

In the right picture, you can see that when marking up the template, it turned out that the top row of facing bricks interferes with us. So we just took it off. It was possible to knock out individual bricks in the places where the rafters were installed. I already wrote earlier that you should not load the facing masonry with a roof.

So, the template for ordinary rafters is ready. Of course, it is very difficult to build a box at home, as well as install a Mauerlat and a ridge beam in compliance with ideal geometry. There will always be errors. Therefore, before making the preparation of the next rafter, take the template and attach it in the place where this rafter will be placed. If you see any inconsistencies, immediately take them into account when making the rafters. Perhaps it will need to be lengthened by a few millimeters or, on the contrary, shortened. In general, in the process of work, everything will become clear.

After all the ordinary rafters are installed and secured, in this example, before installing the corner rafters, I would unload our middle load-bearing beam (which is 2 planks 50x200). To do this, we remove the racks on which the ridge bar was placed. At this moment, the load will be fully distributed on the walls of the house box. And now we shorten our racks a little and put them in place. They should enter between the ridge and the beam freely with minimal effort (you do not need to hammer them with a healthy hammer).

If our racks rested not on a beam, but on a load-bearing partition, we would skip this step.

Now we turn to the most interesting thing - the manufacture and installation of corner rafters. The corner rafter must be simultaneously located immediately in 2 adjacent planes of the slopes. This is a prerequisite for the sheathing and the roof to be flat without deflections. Different builders do this in different ways. I'll tell you how we do it.

The calculation of the cross-section of corner rafters is quite complicated, it makes no sense to delve into it. We always make them from 2 boards sewn together with the same section as the ordinary rafters. This practice has been proven by many builders' many years of experience. I can vouch for the reliability, of course, with the installation of the necessary props (we will talk about them below).

To begin with, at each corner, directly to the Mauerlat, we attach two sawn-off (see Fig.) Trimming boards (50x100 mm) about 30 cm long. The saws are made at an angle of 45º.

Further, at any corner from which we decided to start, we fasten a piece of board (in this case 50x150 mm) according to the figure. Pay attention - the plane of the bar facing us coincides with the line connecting the inner and outer corners of the Mauerlat. In short, the bar stands in the place where the right board of the future corner rafter will stand.

Now on an ordinary rafter we measure the size shown in the figure using a square and mark it on the installed bar. Let's call the resulting point - point 1. Screw the screw into it.

At the top, according to the figure, we make the markup. Size 10 cm is the thickness of the corner rafter. The main thing is that the triangle is isosceles. Let's call the point on the right (marked with a small stroke in the figure) - point 2. We also screw a self-tapping screw into it.

Pull the lace between points 1 and 2 (shown in blue). Then we take any small piece of board 15 cm wide (the same as that of the rafters) and, aligning its upper edge with the lace (see figure), we push this piece against the Mauerlat. At the point of contact, draw a mark with a pencil and measure the size of the support of the corner rafter (in this case 11 cm). We will call this mark - point 3.

Now we need to measure the angle of inclination of the corner rafter. For this we use a malka. It is better to purchase a malka with a protractor assembly (left picture). If you couldn't find one, you can use a simple small one plus an ordinary school protractor (middle picture). What angle we are measuring is shown in the right picture:

We apply the resulting blank at the top (see left figure) to our point 2 and combining it with the lace, draw lines parallel to the ordinary rafter on the right with a pencil. We make a new wash along these lines. You can see what should happen in the right picture. It can also be seen in the figure that at the lower point of contact between the template and the ordinary rafter, we put another mark. Let's call it point 4.

Finally, we remove the lace, measure the distance between points 3 and 4 with a tape measure, and make an angled rafter. The sequence is as follows: we measure the overhang of an ordinary rafter. Above in the figure, which shows an ordinary rafter with dimensions, the size we need is 0.67 meters. Multiply this value by 1.5. To the resulting figure, add the distance between points 3 and 4. So we get the length of the workpiece of the corner rafter. This length is made with a sufficient margin. The overhang will turn out to be more than necessary, it is already cut in place when the cornice is made.

Now we sew two boards 50x150. With a large length of the board blank, we butt - we make the joints in different places. I think everything is obvious here. Using the template, mark and file the upper end of the right board. Then, as if doing a mirror image, we file down the left board. We set aside on the workpiece the distance between points 3 and 4 (from where it should be put off should be clear from the figures above). We make the bottom cut, maintaining the angle α and our size of the support of the corner rafter - 11 cm. Now the rafter can be put in place and fixed.

For other corner rafters, we make all the cuts the same. The only thing that can be specified is the distance between points 3 and 4.

The most loaded point of the corner rafter is 1/4 span from the top point. Therefore, you need to put additional stands here. As I already said, in our example, you cannot put racks on the floor beams, so we put additional beams with a section of 100x200 mm under them.

Now we need to make and install the so-called "wives". Here, in principle, everything is not as complicated as it might seem. To begin with, on the Mauerlat with a pencil, we make markings with the required step (0.6 meters) and mark the places where the wives will stand. Now we are making the shortest extreme wedge right in place. Its lower cuts and the length of the overhang are marked according to the remaining pattern of ordinary rafters. They are the same. The upper cut can be done right in place without any complex constructions. Narodnik is not heavy. We took it, twisted it, figured it out, a couple of times we corrected the upper saw with a chainsaw and everything will work out. If the wrist moves a few centimeters to the left or right along the Mauerlat, it's not scary. The main thing is to achieve that when looking from above, the angle between it and the Mauerlat is 90º. I think this is understandable.

Now we can use this short crochet as a template for everyone else. The cuts are all the same, only the length is different. See the figure: we measure the length of an ordinary rafter and subtract from it the length of the short man made. Divide the resulting figure by the total number of people in the corner. We did markup on the Mauerlat and we know how many there will be. In our case, five. So, we got the distance by which the length of each subsequent man will differ. Those. We have a short one, we add this distance to it, we get the length of the next one, and so on. I am sure that if you build the roof yourself and reach this stage, then you will not have any problems here.

Now a little digression. If the size of the span covered by the corner rafter is more than 7.5 meters, in addition to the rack we installed, you need to put an additional rack at a distance of 1/4 of the span from the lowest point of support. If the overlap allows us to put a rack on them, or we make the so-called "sprengel" (see fig.).

If the span is more than 9 meters, we put more racks in the middle. Well, here, accordingly, it will be necessary to strengthen the ordinary rafters. In the process of calculating them, this will become obvious.

So, back to our roof. Now you need to make a cornice overhang. I will not go into the process in this article. Already tired of writing. I will give only a few pictures, from which I think everything will be clear.

On this I would like to end. Of course, the more complex the process, the more difficult it is to describe it in an understandable and accessible form. Still, I hope that people who decide to build a hip roof with their own hands will figure it out and they will definitely succeed. Any questions or additions on the topic, write in the comments. Let's discuss.

And one more observation. In my personal prejudice, a hip roof in its pure form, as we built it in this article, looks kind of boring. It simply transforms if you make at least one dormer window.

In addition, the hipped roof - built according to all the rules with its own hands - in practice has a large number of advantages, especially for the harsh Russian latitudes. Let's figure it out in more detail?

The hipped roof has slopes, which are made in the form of isosceles triangles and converge with their vertices at one point. If a hipped roof comes out square in plan when viewed from above, then it is called a hipped roof.

If it does not come out square, but it turns out in the form of a rectangle, this is a hip roof. Such interesting name she got it thanks to the stingrays, which have the form of hip tongs.

Dutch roof: a classic of four slopes

The Dutch or hip roof is considered a classic option, which is particularly resistant to wind and snow.

The surface of a standard hip roof forms two trapezoidal slopes along the long sides and the same number of triangular slopes along the short sides. In contrast to the hipped roof, such a form, according to modern architects, is considered more aesthetic.

It involves the installation of four slanting rafters - diagonal support beams that run from the two tops of the slopes to the upper corners of the building.

But the half-hip roof, in turn, is of two types: when the side slopes cut off only part of the end from above, or already at the bottom, that is, the half-hip itself can be a triangle or a trapezoid, and be called Danish or half-hip Dutch.

Semi-hinged Dutch roof: extra stability

The semi-hinged Dutch roof is both a variant of a gable structure and a four-pitched one. It differs from the classic version by the presence of truncated hips - triangular end slopes. According to the rules, the length of the Dutch roof hip should be 1.5-3 times less than the length of the side trapezoidal slopes.

The advantage of such a roof is that it is possible to install a dormer vertical window here, and at the same time there is no sharp ledge, like in a gable roof, which, in turn, increases the roof's ability to withstand extreme wind loads.

Half-hip Danish roof: European traditions

But the Danish half-hip roof is a kind of purely hip construction. In this case, only the lower part of the end slope is mounted, and a small vertical pediment is left under the ridge.

The advantage of this design is that it allows you to abandon the problematic in terms of waterproofing skylights in the roof and provide natural light to the attic by installing full-fledged vertical glazing, which is now especially fashionable.

Hipped roof: perfect proportions

A hipped roof is usually placed on buildings that have the same length of walls, which form a square perimeter. Such a hipped roof has all the slopes in shape - the same isosceles triangles, a roofer's dream, in a word, and a builder's nightmare.

The fact is that the construction of a classic hipped roof is even more difficult than that of a hip roof, because here the rafters must all converge at one point:

The device of the roof rafter system with four slopes

Here is the simplest example of building a standard hip roof for a small country house:

Stage I. Planning and design

Before making a hipped roof, be sure to think over all its details, to the smallest detail. Be sure to build even the simplest hipped roof device according to the finished drawing. The fact is that the finished gable roof flaws and distortions are almost noticeable, but if you make a mistake somewhere in the construction of the same hip or hipped roof, then the diagonal rafters simply will not converge in the ridge and it will be extremely difficult to fix it.

And therefore, if you own special programs, create a 3D model of the future roof directly in them, and if not, then just prepare a detailed drawing and it's good if a professional helps you with this. All the details of such a roof must be calculated - to the smallest detail!

By the way, today it is quite fashionable to make not only a hipped roof, but also its individual functional elements:

Stage II. Blank of structural elements

So, if you took a finished roof drawing or sketched it yourself and are confident in the future quality, it's time to prepare the necessary elements of the rafter system. And for this, first, let's figure out how they are called correctly.

So, the first thing you have to take care of before building a hipped roof is mauerlat ... This is a square or rectangular beam that you will lay on the top of the walls around the entire perimeter of the house. It will become a support for the rafters, which will transfer the load to it, and it is this board that will evenly distribute the weight of the entire roof on the walls of the house and the foundation. Perfect option –Use a bar with a section of 15 by 10 cm as a Mauerlat.

Next, you will build rafter legs - this is the main element that will create a roof slope. Standard rafters are made of 50 x 150 mm boards, and diagonal rafters are 100 x 150 mm.

You will need and tightening,whose main task is to prevent the rafter legs from moving to the sides. You will fix and connect the puffs themselves with the lower ends, and for this, stock the boards with a parameter of 50 by 150 meters.

But on top, both the diagonal rafter legs and standard rafters will converge and be fixed to each other in skate... To do this, take a bar 150 x 100 mm.

Further, in the center of two opposite sides there should be a transverse beam - sill, which serves as a support for the racks, and they, in turn, support the ridge run. For this purpose, a beam with a section of 100 by 100 mm or 100 by 150 mm is suitable.

Slopes become a support for the rafters, which prevents them from sliding. Such, you must install them at an angle to the rack, for this, take the same material as on the bed.

Don't forget about wind board - this is a horizontal element that connected all the lower ends of the rafters together. You will need to nail it to the rafters along the inner perimeter of the roof and in this way emphasize the slope line. For this purpose, a 100 x 50 mm board is suitable.

But for the outside, you will need another board - filly, from the same material. This board has received such a strange name since the time when it was made carved in the form of horse muzzles.

But the most unusual and complex element of the hipped roof is sprengel, which gives rigidity to the entire structure. Its main task is to link all horizontal and vertical elements. It is also mounted at an angle, and is made of 100 x 100 mm timber:

And finally, if we are talking specifically about a hip roof, then the only element that is present exclusively in hip roofs is wives... They are shortened rafters that rest on a diagonal rafter leg. You can make them from a board of 50 x 150 mm.

In life, all these elements look like this:

Think also about insulation, waterproofing film and additional roofing elements:

Stage ІІІ. Installation of an attic floor

Often, the headstock of hanging rafters or suspension, which works in tension in a hip roof, must be made of steel. To do this, special wooden girders are suspended perpendicular to the tightening of wooden rafters on clamps.

And already perpendicular to the girders, wooden beams are suspended, after which non-beam lightweight fillings are laid between them. Therefore, if you want to reduce the roof load on hanging rafters or truss, you need to choose suspended floor designs.

For steel trusses, the suspended ceiling must be made fireproof, according to steel beams... Between such beams, prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs should be laid, and already on them - light insulation. To increase the fire resistance and durability of such load-bearing structures, they must be made of reinforced concrete. Moreover, the most reinforced concrete supporting structures are best made from large-sized prefabricated panels so as not to risk it.

Stage IV. Ridge girder installation

When calculating a ridge run, start from the following nuances:

If the building has capital longitudinal walls, or at least two rows of internal pillars, then two runs are made. At the same time, many rafter structures can be composite in length, and crossbars are used to increase rigidity.
If the building does not have internal supports, then inclined rafters cannot be made here. Therefore, special construction farms, to which the attic floor is simply suspended. In this case, the rods, which are located along the upper contour of the trusses, form the upper belt of the construction truss, and along the lower contour, already the lower belt. The truss lattice itself now forms vertical rods and braces - inclined rods that are located between the upper and lower chords. Moreover, such farms are not necessarily made only of wood, on the contrary, steel reinforced concrete ones are quite popular today. During the construction process, the trusses are installed at a distance of 4-6 meters from each other. The simplest version of such trusses is truss, which consist of rafter legs, vertical suspension, headstock and puffs.
If the width of the building is large enough, construction trusses or truss supports are used during installation. But then the attic floor cannot be covered with beams that will rest on the walls alone. Such a structure must be suspended on steel clamps to the lower chord of the truss, or to a tie, in order to form, thus, suspended floors.

This photo illustration clearly shows how exactly the rafters need to be attached to the ridge and ridges:

Stage V. Installation of standard and diagonal rafters

So, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the ridge, depending on the following conditions:

If there is only one ridge girder in the middle of the roof, then the diagonal leg needs to be stuffed on the girder console. They are specially released for this 15 centimeters per fake frame, and then sawed off the excess.
If there are two girders, then they need to install a truss structure from a horizontal beam and a rack, and then fix the mast rafters themselves.
If at the same time the beam is strong, from a bar, and not from boards, then it makes sense to make a surf - a short board with a thickness of at least 5 centimeters. And on it already to support the rafters of the hip roof.

In addition, for reliability, the rafters are fixed with a metal wire, twisted several times.

On the ribs, the installation of the ridge elements must be done in the same sequence as on a regular roof ridge. Those. install the rib element with a closed end, put the ridge elements in the lock and fix them mechanically. But at the intersection of the ribs and the ridge of the hip roof, it is customary to install Y-shaped ridge elements, although you can also use the initial and final ridge elements instead.

But only cut them off along the contour when they are fixed on the edge, and mechanically fix the joints. Be sure to treat with primer and mineral dressing from the standard repair kit. Do not forget also when installing the ridge elements, finally, on the ribs or ridge of the hipped roof, leave a gap for air exhaust from the under-roof space.

All the same principles must be observed when building a hipped roof of a complex shape:

You can do it! Please ask your questions in the comments.

The classic four-slope, even today, is still unaccustomed to Russian latitudes and reminds of the overseas way of life. That is why it is most often built in order to give the architecture of a residential building a special effect in terms of style and perception, it is advantageous to distinguish it from the monotonous usual buildings. In addition, a hipped roof - built according to all the rules with your own hands - has a large number of advantages in practice, especially for the harsh Russian latitudes. Let's figure it out in more detail?

Types of hipped roofs

If it does not come out square, but it turns out in the form of a rectangle, this is a hip roof. She got such an interesting name thanks to the ramps, which look like tongs-hips.

Dutch roof: a classic of four slopes

The Dutch or hip roof is considered a classic option, which is particularly resistant to wind and snow.

The rafter system of the hip roof involves the installation of four slant rafters - diagonal support beams that run from the two tops of the slopes to the upper corners of the building.

Semi-hinged Dutch roof: extra stability

Half-hip Danish roof: European traditions

But the Danish half-hip roof is a kind of purely hip construction. In this case, only the lower part of the end slope is mounted, and a small vertical pediment is left under the ridge.

Hipped roof: perfect proportions

The fact is that the construction of a classic hipped roof is even more difficult than that of a hip roof, because here the rafters must all converge at one point:

The device of the roof rafter system with four slopes

Here is the simplest example of building a standard hip roof for a small country house:

Stage I. Planning and design

Before making a hipped roof, be sure to think over all its details, to the smallest detail. Be sure to build even the simplest hipped roof device according to the finished drawing. The fact is that the finished gable roof has almost noticeable flaws and distortions, but if you make a mistake somewhere in the construction of the same hip or hip roof, then the diagonal rafters simply will not converge in the ridge and it will be extremely difficult to fix it.

By the way, today it is quite fashionable to make not only a hipped roof, but also its individual functional elements:

Stage II. Blank of structural elements

So, the first thing you have to take care of before building a hipped roof is mauerlat ... This is a square or rectangular beam that you will lay on the top of the walls around the entire perimeter of the house. It will become a support for the rafters, which will transfer the load to it, and it is this board that will evenly distribute the weight of the entire roof on the walls of the house and the foundation. The ideal option is to use a bar with a section of 15 by 10 cm as a Mauerlat.

Next, you will build rafter legs - this is the main element that will create a roof slope. Standard rafters are made of 50 x 150 mm boards, and diagonal rafters are 100 x 150 mm.

You will need and tightening, whose main task is to prevent the rafter legs from moving to the sides. You will fix and connect the puffs themselves with the lower ends, and for this, stock the boards with a parameter of 50 by 150 meters.

But on top, both the diagonal rafter legs and standard rafters will converge and be fixed to each other in skate... To do this, take a bar 150 x 100 mm.

Slopes become a support for the rafters, which prevents them from sliding. Such, you must install them at an angle to the rack, for this, take the same material as on the bed.

But for the outside, you will need another board - filly, from the same material. This board has received such a strange name since the time when it was made carved in the form of horse muzzles.

In life, all these elements look like this:

Think also about insulation, waterproofing foil and additional roofing elements:

Stage ІІІ. Installation of an attic floor

For steel trusses, the suspended ceiling must be made fireproof, along the steel beams. Between such beams, prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs should be laid, and already on them - light insulation. To increase the fire resistance and durability of such load-bearing structures, they must be made of reinforced concrete. Moreover, the most reinforced concrete supporting structures are best made from large-sized prefabricated panels so as not to risk it.

Stage IV. Ridge girder installation

When calculating a ridge run, start from the following nuances:

If the building has capital longitudinal walls, or at least two rows of internal pillars, then two runs are made. At the same time, many rafter structures can be composite in length, and crossbars are used to increase rigidity.
If the building does not have internal supports, then inclined rafters cannot be made here. And therefore, special construction trusses are used, to which the attic floor is simply suspended. In this case, the rods, which are located along the upper contour of the trusses, form the upper belt of the construction truss, and along the lower contour, already the lower belt. The truss lattice itself now forms vertical rods and braces - inclined rods that are located between the upper and lower chords. Moreover, such farms are not necessarily made only of wood, on the contrary, steel reinforced concrete ones are quite popular today. During the construction process, the trusses are installed at a distance of 4-6 meters from each other. The simplest version of such trusses is truss, which consist of rafter legs, vertical suspension, headstock and puffs.
If the width of the building is large enough, construction trusses or truss supports are used during installation. But then the attic floor cannot be covered with beams that will rest on the walls alone. Such a structure must be suspended on steel clamps to the lower chord of the truss, or to a tie, in order to form, thus, suspended floors.

This photo illustration clearly shows how exactly the rafters need to be attached to the ridge and ridges:

Stage V. Installation of standard and diagonal rafters

So, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the ridge, depending on the following conditions:

If there is only one ridge girder in the middle of the roof, then the diagonal leg needs to be stuffed on the girder console. They are specially released for this 15 centimeters per fake frame, and then sawed off the excess.
If there are two girders, then they need to install a truss structure from a horizontal beam and a rack, and then fix the mast rafters themselves.
If at the same time the beam is strong, from a bar, and not from boards, then it makes sense to make a surf - a short board with a thickness of at least 5 centimeters. And on it already to support the rafters of the hip roof.

In addition, for reliability, the rafters are fixed with a metal wire, twisted several times.

All the same principles must be observed when building a hipped roof of a complex shape:

You can do it!

Do-it-yourself hipped roof: device, types, how to do it yourself

We understand how a hipped roof is built with our own hands: types of structures, their features and the installation process of each subspecies. Step by step master classes.

Types of hipped roof DIY installation

Pitched roof structures are very often used in private houses. Their four-slope version is ideal for tall buildings, since the roof looks more compact and neat without a massive gable. The hipped roof structure contains many constituent elements. It can be both relatively simple and more complex due to dormer and dormer windows. But in the latter case, it looks more interesting and diverse.

Varieties

The four-pitched roof, in comparison with its two-pitched counterpart, resists wind loads, precipitation better and protects the walls of the building well. Its design is more complex, but small house or you can build such a roof yourself. In the photo on the network you can see how beautiful and harmonious a 4-pitched roof looks. She decorates like one-story houses, and higher buildings.

Before you make a hipped roof with your own hands, you need to decide on its type. There are the following types of such systems:

The hip structure has two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular slopes called hips. The first two slopes are joined to each other in the skate. During installation, the technique of arranging layered rafters is used, as in a gable system, and nesting rafter legs from a 4-slope system.
The half-hip design has the same structure, only the hip slopes are shortened. Below them is a pediment, in which large windows can be made to illuminate the attic or attic floor without losing the strength of the roof.
You can also build hipped roofs with your own hands if you make four slopes in the form of an isosceles triangle. They converge at one point.
The most difficult thing is to independently build a four-pitched roof of a complex configuration with many valleys, gables, abutments and attic windows. In this case, it is better to entrust the construction to specialists, since only they will be able to correctly calculate the structure, execute its plan, diagram and assemble it on site.

Attention! In addition to the supporting frame of the roof, it is necessary to decide on roofing, waterproofing and thermal insulation materialsas different roof designs and pitches require different materials.

Component elements

Since the device of a gable roof practically does not differ from a gable system, it consists of the same constituent elements, but with the addition of some additional details... A 4-pitched roof includes the following details:

Mauerlat. it wooden beam square or rectangular section, which fits along the top of the external load-bearing walls, on which the rafters will rest. It absorbs all the loads and distributes it evenly for transmission to the walls. Houses with a hipped roof are made with a Mauerlat with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm.
The beds are internal support elements that are laid on the load-bearing walls inside the house or on the supports. The material and section of the bed is the same as that of the Mauerlat.
Rafters are divided into slant and lateral. The latter of them form a trapezoidal slope, and the slope ones are needed for hip slopes. Side rafters are not used in the hipped roof. The side rafters are assembled from a bar with a section of 5x15 cm, and the diagonal ones are 10x15 cm. The optimal pitch of the rafter system is 800-900 mm, but it can be less or more depending on the selected roofing and roof design features.
Racks are needed to support the frame of the four-slope structure.
A ridge girder is a horizontal element that simultaneously connects the rafters and serves as a support for them. The pitched roof structure does not have a ridge. It is better to make it from a bar with a section of 150x100 (50) mm.
Puffs are a horizontal element that connects paired side rafters, preventing them from moving apart. Material - board with a section of 5x15 cm.
Narozhniki are shortened rafters that are attached to the diagonal leg. They are made of a 150x50 mm board.
The struts are special struts that increase the strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof.
The filly is the elements that form the overhang of the roof and are attached to the rafters from below. It is made from a bar with a section of 120x50 mm.

When arranging a more complex 4-pitched roof, the drawing and structural diagram may contain other additional elements, for example, cornices, protective strips, additional crate, etc. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of material, it is necessary to perform a sketch or drawing to scale, and carry out all the necessary calculations on it.

Important: the material of all constituent elements of the roof is coniferous wood of at least grade 2 with a moisture content of no more than 15%.

Installation sequence

We will study how a hipped roof is made with our own hands using the example of the simplest hip structure. The step-by-step process of installing the constituent elements of the roof looks like this:

To transfer and evenly distribute the load from the roof frame, snow and the roofing itself, Mauerlats are laid on the load-bearing walls. The bars are fixed to the enclosing structures by means of anchor pins, which are laid even at the stage of wall construction. If the house is built of wood, then the last crown of the log house plays the role of Mauerlat. The Mauerlat timber is necessarily protected from brick, concrete and stone walls by means of waterproofing. To do this, it is wrapped in two layers of roofing material.
The beds are laid on the load-bearing internal walls. They are needed where racks are provided in the rafter system. If the house does not have internal load-bearing walls or they are in the wrong place, then reinforced beams must be provided under the racks, which serve as floors. As a rule, the beams have a section of 20x5 cm, so the supporting elements are increased to a section of 20x10 cm.
After that, they begin to install the racks on the bearing beams or beds. The racks are leveled or plumb and temporarily fixed by means of supports from the boards. To securely fix the rack, use metal corners or steel plates. For simple hip system you will need one row of racks centered right under the ridge. The pitch of the racks is not more than 2 m. When arranging a hipped roof, the racks must be installed under the diagonal legs at the same distance from the corner of the house.
Next, girders are placed on the installed racks. With a conventional hip system, this run is the ridge. At the hipped roof, all the girders form a rectangle with a smaller perimeter than the house itself. All girders in this design are fastened with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Now you can start installing the rafter legs. In this case, the installation of side rafters in a simple hip system is performed in the following sequence:
- A board (150x25 mm) along the width of the rafters is applied to the ridge at the installation site of the extreme rack and a template is made. On it, they mark the upper cut (the place with which the rafter leg will rest on the skate) and cut it out.
- Next, the template is applied to the ridge and the bottom cut is cut (the one with which the rafter element will rest on the Mauerlat beam).
- After that, the finished template is applied to the ridge at the place of installation of the rafters and the need to fit for each rafter element is checked.
- The rafters are marked out and the recess is cut out according to the template.
- Now the rafter legs can be installed and fastened to the Mauerlat and the ridge bar. For fixing, metal corners and self-tapping screws or staples are used.

For the manufacture of diagonal reinforced rafters, you can use two spliced \u200b\u200bboards of a conventional side rafter. A template for diagonal legs is made in the same way. The upper part of these elements rest on the rack, and the lower part - on the corner part of the Mauerlat. That is why the cuts should be done at 45 degrees.
Further, between the two diagonal rafters, the beads are installed. The step of installing these elements is equal to the step of installing the rafters. The upper part of the wrist rests on the diagonal leg, the lower part - on the Mauerlat. Washed down on the upper part of the handles in half of the elements is done in a mirror image. The bottom gash is usually performed locally. After the installation of the element, an overhang is formed, which is aligned along the stretched cord and cut.
The constructed rafter system does not yet guarantee the reliability of the roof. Since the diagonal legs have the maximum load, additional racks must be installed under them - springs. They must rest on reinforced floor beams.
Under the side rafter legs, struts are installed, which with their lower edge rest on a bed or a floor beam, and their upper edge should abut against the rafter at an angle of about 45 °.
A do-it-yourself hipped roof can be made with any roof covering, for example, from ondulin, corrugated board, metal tiles, flexible tiles. But it is worth remembering that under the soft coating you need to make a continuous crate of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. If you plan to do attic floor, then it is necessary to lay insulation between the rafters, and hem everything from below with vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then only the floors are insulated. Waterproofing must be laid under the roofing and a ventilation gap is made.

Hipped roof: device and how to do it yourself

Varieties of hipped roofs for a house, device and structural elements. Do-it-yourself roof installation sequence.

The construction of a four-slope roof frame is a complex process with characteristic technological features. During the construction, their own structural components are used, the sequence of work is different. But the result will amaze with its spectacular shape and resistance to repel atmospheric attacks. AND home master can be proud of their personal achievements as a roofer.

However, before deciding on a device of such a design, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the algorithm according to which the rafter system of a hipped roof is being constructed and with the specifics of its device.

The class of hipped roofs combines two types of structures that resemble a square and rectangular envelope in plan. The first variety is called hip, the second is hip. Against the background of pitched counterparts, they are distinguished by the absence of pediments, called tongs in roofing. In the construction of both variants of hipped roof structures, layered and hanging rafters are used, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with standard technologies for the construction of pitched rafter systems.

Characteristic differences within the four-slope class:

At the hipped roof, all four slopes are in the form of isosceles triangles, the tops of which converge at one highest point. There is no ridge as such in the tent structure; its function is performed by the central support in layered systems or the top of a hanging truss.
At the hip roof, a pair of main slopes have a trapezoidal configuration, and the second pair is triangular. The hip construction differs from the hip counterpart in the obligatory presence of a ridge, to which the trapeziums are adjacent to the upper bases. Triangular slopes, they are also hips, adjoin the ridge with their apex, and their sides are docked with the inclined sides of the trapezoids.

Based on the configuration of the roofs in the plan, it is clear that tent structures are usually erected over square buildings, and hip structures over rectangular houses. Both soft and soft coatings are suitable. The characteristic square or rectangular shape is repeated by the drawings of the rafter system of a hipped roof with a clearly marked arrangement of elements in the plan and vertical projections of the slopes.

Often, hip and hip-roof systems are used together in the construction of one object or effectively complement gable, single-slope, broken and other roofs.

Structures with four slopes can be supported directly on the upper crown of a wooden house or on a Mauerlat, which serves as the upper strapping of brick or concrete walls. If upper and lower supports can be found under each rafter, the roof frame is constructed using layered technology.

The installation of layered rafter legs is easier and more accessible for an inexperienced home roofer who needs to take into account that:

If the upper and lower heels of the rafters are rigidly fastened with metal corners or with the help of a supporting wooden lining, a reinforced Mauerlat fastening will be required, because the spacer will be transmitted to it.
With a rigid fixation of the upper heel and a hinged fastening of the bottom of the rafter, it is not necessary to strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlate, because when the load on the roof is exceeded, the hinge fastening, for example, on sliders, will allow the rafter to move slightly without creating pressure on the Mauerlat.
When the top of the rafters is hinged and the bottom is rigidly fixed, the spacer and pressure on the Mauerlat are also excluded.

The issues of fixing the Mauerlat and the closely related method of installing the rafter legs according to the rules are decided at the design stage of the house. If the building has no internal load-bearing wall or it is not possible to build reliable supports under the central part of the roof, except for the hanging assembly diagram of the rafter system, nothing will work. True, in most cases, the layered construction method is used, for the implementation of which it is necessary in advance to provide a load-bearing support inside the building.

In the device of rafter systems for hip and hip hip roofs, specific structural elements are used, these are:

Diagonal rafter legs that form the backbone of the slopes. In hip structures, diagonals, they are also slant rafters, connect the ridge girder consoles to the corners of the roof. In tent systems, the slant legs connect the top to the corners.
Narozhniki, or rafter half-legs, installed perpendicular to the cornices. They rely on diagonal rafters, are located parallel to each other, therefore they differ in different lengths. Narodniks form the planes of hip and hip slopes.

Diagonal rafters and rafters are also used for the construction of valleys, only then concave corners of the roof are arranged, and not convex like hip corners.

The whole complexity of the construction of frames for roofs with four slopes lies in the installation of diagonal rafters, which determine the result of the formation of the structure. In addition, the slopes are required to firmly hold the load one and a half times greater than ordinary rafter legs of pitched roofs. Because they work part-time as a skate, i.e. support for the upper heel of the wives.

If you briefly describe the procedure for building a layered frame for a hipped roof, then you can keep within several stages:

Mauerlat device for brick or concrete walls... The process of installing the Mauerlat on the walls of a log or bar can be canceled, because it can be successfully replaced by the upper crown.
Installation of a central support for a hip structure or support frame for the main part of the hip roof.
Installation of conventional layered rafters: pairs for a hipped roof and a series defined by the design solution for a hip structure.
Installation of diagonal rafter legs connecting the corners of the systems to the top of the support or the extreme points of the ridge.
Manufacturing to size and fastening of handcuffs.

In the case of using a hanging frame scheme, the start of the construction of a tent frame will be the installation of a triangular truss truss in the center. The installation of a series of roof trusses will be the beginning of the installation of the four-slope hip rafter system.

Construction of a hip rafter system

Let us analyze one of the common examples of a hip roof device with layered rafter legs. They will have to rely on the floor beams laid on top of the Mauerlat. Rigid fastening with a cut will be used only to fix the top of the rafter legs on the ridge girder, so there is no need to strengthen the Mauerlat fasteners. The dimensions of the box shown in the example of the house are 8.4 × 10.8 m. The actual dimensions of the roof in the plan will increase on each side by the size of the eaves, by 40-50 cm.

Mauerlat base device

Mauerlat is a purely individual element, the method of its installation depends on the material of the walls and the architectural features of the building. The method of laying the Mauerlat is planned according to the rules during the design period, because for reliable fixation of the Mauerlat it is recommended:

Equip lightweight foam concrete, gas silicate and similar walls with a reinforced reinforced concrete belt, poured along the perimeter, with anchors installed during the pouring period for fastening the Mauerlat.
Fold brick walls with a side of one or two bricks along the outer edge so that a ledge is formed along the inner edge for laying a wooden frame. During masonry, wooden plugs are laid between the bricks to fasten the Mauerlat with brackets to the wall.

Mauerlat is made from a bar with dimensions of 150 × 150 or 100 × 150 mm. If the operation of the under-roof space is expected, it is advisable to take the bars thicker. In a single frame, the timber is connected by oblique cuts. Then the connection sections are reinforced with self-tapping screws, ordinary nails or wood grouses, and the corners are reinforced with staples.

Overlapping beams are laid on top of the Mauerlat aligned to the horizon, constructed in the optimal way for a particular building. A bar with a section of 100 × 200mm is used. First of all, a beam is laid, passing exactly along the central axis of the building. In the example, the length of the timber for the construction of solid beams is not enough, therefore they are assembled from two beams. The docking point should be located above a reliable support. In the example, the support is an internal load-bearing wall.

The step between the floor beams is 60 cm. If the box being equipped does not differ in ideal parameters, as it happens in most situations, the distance between the beams can be slightly changed. Such an adjustment allows you to slightly "smooth out" the flaws in the construction. Between the extreme beams on both sides and the walls of the house, there should be a 90 cm gap, which is necessary for installing the outriggers.

Because floor beams on their own will be able to form only two eaves overhangs, short floor beams are attached to their ends - outriggers. They are first installed only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe main part of the hip roof, exactly where the rafter legs are to be mounted. The stem is nailed to the Mauerlat, fastened to the beam with screws, large-caliber nails, pins, and reinforced with corners.

Ridge construction

The central part of the hip roof is an ordinary gable structure. The rafter system is arranged for her according to the rules that it dictates. In the example, there are some deviations from the classic interpretation of the sloping principle: the bed is not used, on which the supports for the ridge run are traditionally installed. The work of the bed will have to be performed by the central floor beam.

In order to build the ridge part of the hip roof rafter system, you must:

Build a support frame for the rafter legs, the top of which will rest on the ridge girder. The run will be supported by three supports, the central one of which is installed directly on the central floor beam. To install the two extreme supports, two transverse bars are first laid, overlapping at least five floor beams. Stability is enhanced with two braces. For the manufacture of horizontal and vertical parts of the support frame, a bar with a section of 100 × 150 mm was used, the struts were made of a board of 50 × 150 mm.
Make rafter legs, for which you first need to make a template. A board of suitable sizes is applied to the installation site, lines of future cuts are drawn on it. It will be the template for the continuous production of rafters.
Install the rafter legs, resting them with the cut on the ridge girder, and with the lower heel on the stem opposite.

If the floor beams were laid across the box, then the rafters of the main part of the roof would rest on the floor beams, which is much more reliable. However, in the example, they rely on the stem, therefore, additional mini-supports must be arranged under them. These supports should be located so that the load from them and the rafters located above is transmitted to the walls.

Then three rows of stems are mounted on each of the four sides. For the convenience of implementing further actions, the roof contour is drawn up with a cornice board. It must be nailed to the floor beams and outriggers strictly horizontally.

Installation of corner stems

In the space limited by the cornice board, there were corner sections that were not filled with the details of the rafter system. Here you will need angular stems, for installation of which is carried out as follows:

In order to indicate the direction of installation, we pull the lace. We stretch from the point of the conditional intersection of the extreme support of the frame with the floor beam to the corner.
On top of the lace we put a bar in its place. Holding the bar, draw the cuts from below at the intersection of the floor beam and corner connection cornice boards.
We attach the finished stem with the sawn-off excess to the Mauerlat and to the floor beam with corners.

The remaining three corner stems are manufactured and mounted in the same way.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Diagonal, they are also slant, rafter legs are made from two boards sewn together with a section equal to the size of ordinary rafters. In the example, one of the boards will be positioned slightly higher than the second due to the difference in the angles of the hips and trapezoidal slopes.

The sequence of work on the manufacture and installation of mats:

From the highest point of the ridge, we pull the lace to the corners and to the center point of the slope. These are auxiliary lines along which we will mark the upcoming cuts.
Carpenter's goniometer - small measure the angle between the lace and the upper side of the corner stem. This is how the angle of the bottom cut is determined. Suppose it is equal to α. The angle of the upper cut is calculated by the formula β \u003d 90º - α.
At an angle β, cut off one edge of an arbitrary board trim. We apply it to the place of the upper attachment, aligning the edge of this blank with the lace. We outline the excess that interferes with a dense installation. You need to saw again along the marked lines.
At an angle α, saw off the lower heel on another cut of the board.
We make the first half of the diagonal rafters using the top and bottom support templates. If a solid board is not long enough, two pieces can be spliced. They can be spliced \u200b\u200bwith a meter-long piece of inch planted on self-tapping screws, it should be placed on the outside of the constructed nipple leg. We install the finished first part.
We do the second part of the rafters in the same way, but we take into account that it should be slightly lower than its first half. The section of joining the boards into one element should not coincide with the section of joining the boards of the first half of the slant.
We sew two boards with nails at a distance with a step of 40-50 cm.
Along the lace stretched to the center of the ramp, we draw a line along which it will be necessary to adjust the gash to dock it with the adjacent rafter.

Following the described algorithm, three more diagonal legs must be installed. Supports should be installed under each of them at the point where the corner extensions are attached to the beams. If the span is more than 7.5 m, one more support is installed diagonally closer to the ridge.

Manufacturing and installation of hip rafters

The lace between the top of the ridge and the center of the ramp is already stretched. It served as an axis for outlining the cuts, and now it is necessary to measure the angle γ and calculate the angle δ \u003d 90º - γ. Without deviating from the proven path, we prepare templates for the upper and lower support. We apply the upper trim to the place intended for it and mark the cut lines on it for a tight fit between the diagonal rafters. Using the blanks, we make the central leg of the hip and fix it where it should be.

In the space between the corner braces and the cornice board, we install short protrusions to give rigidity to the structure and to ensure firm fixation of the extreme, shortest braces. Next, you should start making templates for the women themselves:

We cut the board off at an angle δ and attach it to the attachment point to the diagonal rafter.
We outline in fact the surplus that needs to be cut down again. The resulting template is used in the manufacture of all handcuffs, for example, the right side of the hip. For the left side, the top template will be filed from the opposite side.
As a template for the lower heel, we use a piece of board sawn off at an angle γ. If all the previous steps were performed correctly, then this template is used to make the lower attachment points for all other women.

In accordance with the actual length and the "indications" of the templates, the braces are made, which are necessary to form the planes of the hips and the parts of the main slopes that are not filled with ordinary rafter legs. Install them so that top nodes the attachments of the rafters to the diagonal rafters were located at a distance, i.e. the upper connecting nodes of adjacent slopes should not converge in one place. The beams are attached to the rafter leg with corners, to the floor beams and outriggers as it is more reasonable and convenient: corners or metal toothed plates.

The hip roof technology is based on the already familiar hip principles. True, there is no ridge part of the rafter system in their design. The construction begins with the installation of a central support, to which the nesting rafters are attached, and then the bearers. If hanging technology is used in the construction of the roof with an envelope, then the finished truss is installed first.

We invite you to use our free online calculator for calculating building material when installing a hip roof - and follow the instructions.

Helpful video instructions

Briefly, the video will introduce the sequence and rules for installing the rafter system of a hipped roof of the hip and hip categories:

Having familiarized yourself with the specifics of the device and having mastered the intricacies of installing roofs with four slopes, you can safely proceed to the implementation of plans for its construction.