Homemade agricultural machinery for farmers. What homemade products for the household can be made with your own hands Home-made devices for the backyard economy to make yourself

Standard gardening tool and its modification. So far, all work in the garden and in the garden is done manually. And the tool produced by the industry leaves much to be desired.

And yet - what is included in the standard set? First of all, of course, shovels. They serve as the main tool for digging soil, digging holes and trenches, loading and unloading bulk, viscous and other materials. It is better to have a complete set of shovels, ranging from bayonet or digging to shovel or scoop. But they can be upgraded (Fig. 18). The upgraded shovels are not only convenient and reliable in work, but also versatile. No less necessary in the gardening industry are forks both ordinary, for four bayonets, and of another configuration: straight, curved, curly, for three and two horns. Some of them are good for working with tops and foliage, others with compost, and still others replace the shovel when digging (Fig. 19).

On heavy soils you can't do without a hoe. Existing hoes are produced in three types, but they differ little from each other. They also need to be modernized, adapted to their working conditions: weighed down, lightened, refined. You will see examples of conventional and modernized hoes in the pictures. The same applies to weeders or hoes. The best of them are loop ones with lateral and frontal sharpening, there are special types designed to combat particularly stubborn weeds with branched root systems, massive trunks and shoots (Fig. 17).

Rippers, cultivators and rakes of existing modifications in most cases are not very suitable for gardening and horticulture, especially when the site is just being developed and you have to deal not only with fallow lands, but also with stones, unnecessary plantings, holes and potholes. All these tools are customizable. Mainly towards their strength and reliability. Particular attention should be paid to the cuttings and handles of the tool, their length and weight. Along with miniature tools, the farm must also have massive ones, suitable for lifting, crushing and flat-cutting work. It is good if the gardener or gardener adds a tool of his own making to the standard store set.

The grubber. Those who have had to do this thankless work will appreciate the proposed tool. The grubber is a piece of water pipe 1.5 m long, to the end of which a blade from an aircraft turbine or an old chisel with a size of 150x70 mm is welded. The blade should be sharpened as sharply as possible. When uprooting large trees and bushes, sand is poured into the pipe to make the tool heavier and a wooden plug is clogged. The grubber goes deep at an angle of 45 ° to the rhizome and cuts it with a strong blow (Fig. 20).

Tool fitted correctly. All tool mountings can be unreliable if left unattended. Troubles happen at the most inopportune moment and often lead to injury. To avoid this, you must follow three rules: before work soak the planted tool in water - the swollen wood more reliably "holds" the tool, all types of fasteners should not be loose, especially to twist or fall out; the tool must be well sharpened, free from burrs and chipped. You cannot work with a cracked tool at all!

Hammers and axes, sledgehammers and ketmen are planted with wedges. It is safer to place them not straight, as is often done, but at an angle of 45 o, which allows you to fix a handle or a hatchet around the entire perimeter of the attachment (Fig. 20).

Shovel, rake, pitchfork nozzles also leave much to be desired - they are usually fixed with a nail or screw; which is completely unreliable, although there is a known lining method followed by folding its ends (Fig. 20).

And the last thing. All tools are pushed onto the back of the handle, ax or handle. Other types of attachments are ineffective, leading to deformation of the instrument itself and injury.

Tool sharpening. All tools require mandatory sharpening, and this is not as simple as it might seem. First, the tools have different sharpening angles. If for a saw it can be 37 °, for an ax 33-35 °, then for a knife - 6-8 °, and for a drill, for example, 90-120 °, for a plane knife - 45 °, and for an awl - 1- 0.5 °! There are templates for sharpening many tools, some of them can be made by yourself so as not to make mistakes - nothing is done "by eye"!

Sharpening angle - the angle of attack of the tool. Sharpen the ax already, it will get stuck in the tree, and the cutting edge of the scissors will wrinkle, the drill or chisel will simply break off. The diagram shows the angles of sharpening of some types of tools, as well as the simplest templates.

One tool can be sharpened with another. Most often - with a sharpener or emery stone, but often with files. For this there are triangular and flat files. They also sharpen saws. It is necessary to use protective devices when sharpening saws, as shown in the figure, and also have a set for the teeth - even a very well sharpened, but not set, saw will not cut. There are no cables and crosses on sale, so you will have to make them yourself (fig. 21). The saw teeth are bent to the desired angle by setting, and the bend angle is checked with a cross.

Sharpening tends to heat up the tool, which can interfere with hardening. Tool strength and performance depend on hardening. The tool can be hardened by yourself.To do this, it is enough to heat it up to a cherry glow and lower it into water. There are other types of hardening. For drilling glass, for example, a drill is hardened in wax.

Requires attention measuring tool. Especially for those who are engaged in construction or love to tinker. The simplest metric measures are generally available (rulers, folding rules, tape measures), and we will not dwell on them. The situation is more complicated with level meters: plumb lines, spirit levels, temperature and barometric sensors.

The simplest vertical line is a plumb line.It is a bullet-shaped piece of metal suspended on a strong thread, according to the deviation of which from the wall or part of the structure, verticality is determined. The plumb line is easy to make yourself (fig. 20).

Levels are the measure of horizontality. They can be replaced with the simplest devices. Here is one of them - a spirit level in the form of an isosceles triangle, at the top of which the same plumb line is fixed (Fig. 20). A primitive level can also be two pipettes inserted into a flexible rubber tube filled with water or any colored liquid (Fig. 20). We have already considered the self-made level.

Thermometers (alcohol and mercury) are widespread. They can be used instead of barometers, frost predictors. To do this, it is enough to place a container with alcohol or mercury in a capsule with wetted cotton wool. The figure shows not only the use of a thermometer in this role, but also a calculation table of frosts, to which it is attached.

A dry spruce branch fixed with one end to the wall, where a diagram is drawn from zero to "dry", "wet", can also be a primitive barometer. When it rains, the twig bends, as in dry weather (Fig. 20).

Adaptations, devices, structures. The need for self-grabbing in the economy is obvious. There are several types of grippers, but they are based on the principle of a multi-link kinematic chain, driven by a slider moved along the guide (Fig. 23, 24). The auto-gripper is a part of the lifting and transport mechanism and is unthinkable without the use of blocks, levers and other devices that perform these functions.

Lifting devices. The simplest of them are the lever and the rocker used in the construction of wells, as well as temporary structures during the construction of facilities on the site. More complex lifting devices are blocks with ropes and pulleys. If they are equipped with platforms and guides, then it is possible to design primitive elevators for supplying water to a water tank, an outdoor shower (Fig. 24) Winches can serve the same purposes if the rope is passed through a block or roller.

Pumps and pumps. These devices for supplying water can be purchased at the store or made yourself. The pump is a single-cylinder or two-cylinder pump with a rocker arm and a manual drive (fig. 25) Pumps are usually equipped with a motor and operate on a centrifugal or vacuum principle

Here are some of the pumps produced by the industry and intended for use in the garden: VS-0.5 / 18M, "Druzhok", NEB 1/20, "Strumok", "Malysh", "Kama-5", "Agidsl", TsNB -2, "Rodnik", BKF-4. All the necessary characteristics are indicated in the instructions supplied with the products.

Tightening mechanism. Its use is also multifaceted: tensioning wires and ropes, installing pipes and fences, strengthening rafters on the roof. The device is not particularly complicated, you can do it yourself. The mechanism itself is, as can be seen in the figure, a lever system with a lock. It is quite stiff but can be cushioned with spacers or a spring if necessary.

Wedge lock. The device is also quite simple to manufacture and performs the same tightening work when it is necessary to tightly fit parts: for example, planks for flooring.

"Cobra" for picking berries. Whoever collected sea buckthorn knows how difficult it is. But not only sea buckthorn berries are difficult to pick. The task is simplified by a "cobra", or a comb for picking berries (fig. 22). It is not difficult to make a device, but it will give a considerable effect.

Self-clamping when lifting a load. Their difference from self-captures is that they are triggered at the time of the work. In addition, the larger the load is taken, the stronger it is held. In the figure, you see several options for self-capturing systems.

Fruit pickers. When harvesting apples and pears, you often have to use a stepladder. If you make a fruit picker (Fig. 22), then the need for this will disappear - with a stick length of 1.5-2 m, you can reach the top of even a tall tree. In addition, the removed fruit will not fall to the ground.

There is another version of the fruit picker - from a tin can with a diameter of 10 cm, in the top cover of which teeth are cut. The jar is attached to a stick or aluminum tube. The fruit picker is convenient for picking cherries, plums, raspberries: the cuts of the lid include the stalks of the berries. Having emptied the jar, the fruit picker is put into operation again - and no damage, especially crop losses!

Foldable shovel. It is comfortable and easily transforms into another garden tool - it all depends on the angle at which you attach the bayonet (fig. 20).

Trowel-scoop. If you weld the side to an ordinary trowel (spatula for applying mortar), as shown in the figure, you will get a new tool. The scoop trowel does not lose the solution, it takes more of it and protects the seams better.

A disposable spray can be made from two used ballpoint refills by connecting them with a wire, as shown.

Feather incisors. Good wood cutters can be made from clerical pens by inserting the writing side into a metal tube and locking them with a wedge-shaped sleeve. Sharpen the tail of the feather and shape it. You can put a wooden handle or a gas bottle on the tube.

Tips, ideas, recipes. The tool must always have its place. For example, on the door of any cabinet from the inside, it is not difficult to nail a rail with slots for pliers, screwdrivers, hammer.

A handy file for processing wood (end cuts) can be made from an old bastard file. To do this, it must be released (heated and allowed to cool in air), bend the ends, sawed off under the handle and hardened again. The resulting bracket will be the desired tool. Now all that remains is to attach the handle

A convenient device for carrying firewood can be made from several strips, a thick nylon cord and two pieces of wire. Three holes are drilled in each rail, a cord is passed through them and each rail is fixed with knots. On the two extreme rails, fasten

the wire handles are attached to the fitted rubber tubes. Having laid a bundle of firewood on the device, they tie the free ends of the cords in pairs and that's it - the luggage is ready.

The handwheel of the water tap makes a good brass hammer for small jobs. You just need to drill the hole, making it oval, and put the handwheel on the handle

A cutter for boring holes in wood and plastic can be made from a pencil sharpener. It is fixed in the drill chuck.

It is most convenient to cut sandpaper with a nail on the wrong side of the sheet. The edge is smooth.

From a fragment of a hacksaw blade, you can make a convenient knife for stripping insulation from wires. To do this, release the blade, drill a hole in it, make a segment cutout and sharpen the edges of the cutout. After that, harden the canvas again, and wrap the remaining part with insulating tape.

A hole in the glass can be drilled not only with a drill hardened in sealing wax, but also with a conventional one, using a solution of aluminum alum in acetic acid as a cooling and wetting liquid. A plasticine roller is made around the future hole, into which liquid is poured.

A broken baby ball can protect your hands when using garden shears. To do this, in the middle of the ball you need to cut a hole and put it on a ladle ya tool

To cut fine threads in metal, it is best to use a brace, clamping a tap into its chuck

If there are no metal scissors at hand, the sheet of roofing iron can be quickly and accurately cut with a can opener. To do this, the sheet must be bent along the cut line and tapped with a mallet.

An anvil for small jobs can be made from an old iron by fixing its handle in a wooden block

Siphon cans make good handles for files and other small tools. For large tools, plastic bottles of shampoos and other chemicals are suitable if they are pre-filled with liquid cement, gypsum or bustilate with sawdust.

If there was no large drill under the scolding, a hole of the required size can be drilled with three thin ones, clamped in a drill chuck and fastened with several turns of wire.

To cut grooves, spikes, slats on a hacksaw, instead of one, you need to insert two blades. Adjust the width of the cutout by the distance between the blades and the thickness of the washer or spacer between them.

To prevent the earth from sticking to the shovel, you need to drill several holes along its entire blade.

Instead of a thin drill, you can adapt a thin needle, having previously sharpened its end from the side of the ear.

A fruit water plug nailed to the butt of the chisel handle will reliably insure it against splitting.

The handles of hand tools (nippers, pliers) are conveniently wrapped with a PVC tube. To do this, the tube is dipped in acetone for 15 minutes, and when it swells, put on the handles. After drying, PVC tightly fits the metal.

From the arched leg from the cot in a few minutes, you can make a machine for a bow saw. A 70 cm long web is inserted into the slots at the ends of the tube and secured with pins from a nail. The result is a light and powerful saw that can be used by one or two people.

In order for the cross saw to be used alone, it is enough to rearrange the handle from top to bottom, and grease the blade with soap.

Instead of a tap, you can use a steel bolt by sawing three edges on it and hardening it.

You can use a collet pencil to reinforce the greasy drill in the drill chuck.

If the pliers open too tightly, their movement can be facilitated by drilling a hole in the center of the tool axis with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm from the diameter of its axis.

By bending the stainless-wire gripper, you can easily get pickles out of jars and eggs out of pots of boiling water. The gripper is a loop bent at the angle of the shredder.

Painting hard-to-reach places will be facilitated by a pipe bent at an angle into which a brush is inserted. A pipe from a clamshell will do, you don't need to bend it - just cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

You can't drill through stainless steel without trickery! And the drill needs only a lubricant from a mixture of machine oil and a small amount of sulfur. Even better, sulfur is mixed with fatty acids. They can be obtained by dissolving low-grade laundry soap in water and adding technical hydrochloric acid there, which makes the oil float. Now you need to cool the water and extract the required product. Fatty acids are mixed with sulfur in a 6: 1 ratio (by weight).

The effectiveness of the abrasive tool can be increased by making a solution of detergent powder (teaspoon per liter of water) with a coolant.

If the saw squeaks, gets stuck, and doesn't cut well, don't rush to sow. Wipe the teeth with soap. This advice will help you even if the saw does not pick up damp or resinous wood well.

Scissors cut better when lightly lubricated with wax or paraffin.

Mechanisms and structures. Although minitractors and walk-behind tractors are still a rarity in our gardens and orchards, the industry has mastered their production, and there will be more and more machines every year. M-5 and M-1, for example, are produced with the necessary set of mounted and trailed working bodies that carry out plowing, harrowing, soil cultivation, digging planting holes, inter-row cultivation, mowing grasses, transporting goods, watering, crushing forage, drilling wells and others. work, completely replacing manual labor on the site.

But these works are also performed by individual mechanisms, many of which are easy to do with your own hands.

Transport vehicles. To their usual set - a stretcher, a wheelbarrow, a cart, a sled - you can add a scooter barrel and a cable car. But the wheelbarrow, and the cart, and the sled are easy to re-equip, to make them more comfortable, folding (Fig. 27, 28).

A 200 l scooter barrel is convenient for delivering water. It is only necessary to strengthen it with the imposition of additional hoops that act as rims, they can even be made rubber by installing old bicycle tires, and, having centered, weld bushings with ball bearings. It is on them that the handrail is fixed (Fig. 28).

The suspended cable car is convenient because it is easy to assemble and remove. It is usually installed in the middle of the site, where all types of work are concentrated, including the autumn harvest. The cable car also performs other forks of transport work, as can be seen from the figures.

Irrigation and sprinkling systems. Watering a garden or vegetable garden, even with a properly operating irrigation water supply, is not an easy and rather laborious task. Everything can be simplified by equipping an irrigation and rainwater installation, both ground-based and suspended (Fig. 26). It is even made mobile or portable. True, this will require a full set of hoses, connecting and stop valves, which are always in short supply ... It is better to limit yourself to a more modest set: a supply hose, a tee and a piece of a watering hose 1.5-2 m long with holes pre-burnt with a hot awl (Fig. 28 ).

Pipe connections are the hardest part for the grower. Existing locks are unreliable and fail quickly. We offer a number of easy-to-design connections that have been tested in practice: pneumatic lock, flap lock, spherical joint (Fig. 30).

An interesting machine was invented by William Ozolin for watering garden plots. The device is quite simple: a clock with a weekly winding, a 9-12 V step-down transformer, a relay, a rectifier and an electric pump. The hour hand crawls onto a copper contact attached to any number on the clock, closes the power supply circuit of the electric pump - water supply to the site begins. The arrow has slipped from the contact - the water supply stops.

Watering time is easy to find by lengthening or shortening this contact.

Mechanized weeding. Weed control on the site is a constant concern of the gardener and the gardener. Weeding by hand is difficult and time consuming, even with a tool. But the craftsmen have long and rather successfully mechanized this type of work.

In the picture you can see a small, easy-to-use cultivator with interchangeable implements - a duckfoot, a tooth ripper and a hiller (fig. 29)

There are other solutions, articulated and rotary harrows, a picking unit All of them can be installed on bogies designed according to the principle described above

Vegetable seeder. It is not difficult to do it yourself, and it will facilitate the work significantly, not to mention the fact that it will speed up the sowing and carry out it efficiently.

However, you can do without a seeder at all. It is enough to nail a block 80 mm wide onto a stick and push the pound prepared for sowing with it to the required depth. The seeds fall evenly on the compacted litter, which guarantees their good and friendly germination.

Potato sorting. The bulkhead of potatoes will be facilitated and accelerated by a bulkhead table made of a low wooden box installed with a slight slope (about 22 e) on low trestles. Drawer length 150 cm, width 75, height 25 cm. The bottom is lattice, made of narrow longitudinal wooden slats or metal rods. In the first half of the box, the gap between the slats is 3-4 cm, and in the second half - 6-7.

The potatoes, rolling down the grate, are sorted, falling into the gaps corresponding to the size of the tubers, and fall into the bags or baskets previously placed. At the same time, diseased and damaged tubers, stones, remains of tops and soil are selected (Fig. 32).

Potato sorting is made from any material at hand. Both old water pipes and poles are good for goats.

Sprayer. An efficient garden tap water sprayer is easy. A brass or copper tube of a suitable diameter is slightly expanded on one side. On the other hand, a thick lead plate sprayer is soldered to the tube. A recess is knocked out on it with a ball bearing of a suitable diameter. Then a hemisphere is stamped out of annealed brass or copper with a thickness of about 0.5 mm, which is cut off so that it fits snugly into the tube. The holes in the sprayer are made in two steps. First, with a 1 mm drill, 36-40 holes are drilled half the thickness of the metal, placing them in a checkerboard pattern or in a spiral pattern, then a needle is pushed through smaller holes (Fig. 32).

The sprinkler can also be made from 2 mm aluminum according to the pattern shown in the figure (dimensions in cm). A clamp is put on the end of the hose, the sprinkler itself is hinged to it with a common bolt. The second bolt serves as the axis of the spring, the compression of which regulates the width and distance of spraying during watering (fig. 32)

Rain water supply. It makes sense to build it in the garage, poultry house, greenhouse. It is based on a rain catchment from the roof that flows into a tank equipped with a tap and an overflow pipe (Fig. 33). It is advisable to install a strainer in the funnel of the tank.

Rainwater is good for irrigation, but it also eats and is combined with a solar generator, then such a drive can work to heat the same chicken coop or rabbit house in automatic mode.

A solar generator can be made from the freon condenser of a broken home refrigerator - a black metal panel on the back of the refrigerator. The ends of its tubes only need to be connected to a water tank. The condenser facing the sun actively absorbs heat and provides convection of water, heating it (fig. 33).

You can do even easier by painting a tank with water with black paint and closing it with a transparent cap made of glass frames or a film stretched over a frame or plexiglass. Then neither rain nor wind will interfere with the heating of the tank by the sun (Fig. 33).

Savvy in the construction of a house and household structures. When laying the ceiling and especially the roof, there is always an acute issue with the supply of material upward. The block can of course be installed. Even build a lifting platform. But how to feed boards, slats, rolls, sheets? One by two? Package? And how to tie the bag so that it does not fall on your head?

The problem is solved by the bracket for tightening the packaged goods, which you see in the figure. Its device is simple, reliability is guaranteed. Connected in pairs, such staples will pull together, any package!

Nail, nail, strife! It would seem easier - a nail? But here there is a trick. If you need to prevent the structure from loosening, it is not at all necessary to take long nails, pierce blocks or boards with them, so that later for strength to bend the protruding ends. It is easier to use a nail invented by Barnaul V. Mozaykov (Fig. 33), which differs from the ordinary one in that it is equipped with oblique notches. Such a nail easily enters the tree, but it is no longer possible to pull it back out.

A clean spatula will always be at the disposal of the person who takes care of it - a device for cleaning it. However, cans can be successfully used by painters who do not need to constantly carry around the entire can of paint. It is enough to take a tin can, bend the top lid (not completely cut off with a can opener) in the shape of a pen, and you get a convenient paint mold for 10-15 brush strokes, which are enough to paint over any hard-to-reach place.

You can mix the paint well with a drill, in the cartridge of which a threaded pin is clamped. A plywood or cardboard circle is put on this pin, covering a can of paint, and a lamb or snob with a thread or a thick wire nozzle is screwed onto the lower end. Now all that remains is to turn on the drill.

How to cut a slate sheet without crumbling it or chipping it on the cut? It is moistened with water. Cracked slate does not need to be painted or glued with a cloth, all this is a temporary repair. Such slate will stand for another year, a lot - two. It is more reliable to repair worn slate with special mastic, which includes PVA glue, cement grade 300 and higher, fluffy asbestos and water. PVA can be replaced with frost-resistant paints (E-AK-111, E-VA-17, E-V-17, etc.), and fluffy asbestos - with sheet, grated. The repair mixture is prepared in small portions for 2-3 hours of work, mixing 1-2 parts of cement with 3 parts of fluffed asbestos. PVA glue is diluted in half with water. Repair mixture must have the consistency of sour cream. The cleaned and washed slate sheets are thoroughly cleaned with emery on a fabric basis in the places of cracks, primed with PVA glue (diluted with water 1: 3), with a paste they grease all the damage, and overwrite the cracks. It is better to do this in two layers (the second layer after the first has dried) and in cloudy weather.

Cutting tiles is not so easy, especially if the tiles need to be cut into strips of equal width. The best cutter is a drill bit, the end of which is sharpened with a "beak". Such a cutter goes to the desired depth and cuts an even groove along the entire length, both on the front and back sides. Now you can put the tile on a log block, hanging the cut off part, and, putting a rail on it, break it off with a sharp blow, remembering to securely fix the remaining part or hold it with your hand.

Dry or wet? This is not an idle question when talking about brickwork. If it is led by an experienced master, who knows the secrets of laying bricks "pressed" and "flush", then he will give preference to dry bricks. And it fits tightly, does not slip, and the mitten is dry. But it is better for a beginner to still masonry with wet brick so that it is possible to correct the error and achieve quality with accuracy and slowness. Of course, wet walls take longer to dry, but they are stronger. It is not for nothing that the ancient builders worked only with the wet method! And the ancients knew a lot about buildings ...

Brickwork geometry. One need not even talk about this importance - violations of verticality and horizontalness are equally dangerous and threaten the future home with destruction. For the "stove" from which it is customary to dance, an amateur bricklayer must take a zero mark. It can be fixed using the "flexible water level (pipette at the ends of the hose), which was already mentioned above. Usually this is done on the foundation, on which a gauge rail will be installed later - ordering - and a cord is stretched along which the masonry itself will go.

So, the zero mark. One pipette at the end of the hose is fixed motionlessly on the right corner of the foundation, the other on the left and subsequent corners. It is necessary to achieve complete coincidence of the liquid level in the pipettes and

Table 7 Determination of relative air humidity (in%)

fix the levels on the foundation with dashes. They will be the zero level marks.

Ordering is just a strip, a corner with marked divisions every 77 mm (65 mm brick thickness and 12 mm mortar joint thickness). These slats or corners are installed at the corners of the foundation and are accurately fixed with zero marks. The order is fixed with staples, and the verticality is controlled by a level or plumb line.

Homemade psychrometer. To determine the humidity in the cellar and underground, which is associated with the subsequent warming of their ceilings and the improvement of waterproofing, it is good to have a psychrometer at hand - a special device made up of two alcohol thermometers. One of the thermometers is in a humid environment and shows a more viscous temperature than the control. Now look at the table, which, by the difference in readings between the “dry” and “wet” thermometers, allows you to determine the relative humidity in the air.

Weirs. Roofs must be dry even after heavy rain. For this, weirs are equipped: gutters along the edge of the roof that collect water and discharge it into the gutters. For these works, it is better to use galvanized iron.

The width of the blanks is determined by the diameter of the grooves, taking into account the seam allowances (usually 120-150 mm). The paysus are sewn into a tape with a single fold, the width of the flanging is marked with a thickness gauge, which is performed with a mallet on the square of the workbench, and on the first strip, the flanging at an angle of 90 ° is done in one direction, on the other - in the opposite direction. All these operations are clearly visible in the figures.

The second operation - filling the fold with a mallet in each strip. After that, the edges are brought into the castle so that they fit tightly and precisely around the entire seam. The final operation is to fold the seam, after which the seam can no longer separate.

After sewing all the strips into a tape, it is flanged (folded back) on both sides into the future gutter. This operation is carried out along the entire length. Then the gutter itself is bent using a suitable pipe. The gutters are suspended under the edge of the roof overhang on brackets with a slope for water drainage. It is better to fix the gutters with wire so that they can be removed for the winter (when removing snow from roofs, they can be easily damaged)

Gutters are also made of galvanized iron. Usually, a single fold with a hook is used. They are bent on a mandrel pipe, like the grooves. It is better to put a drain in a barrel so that water can be used, as shown in the figures.

You should also take care of water chippers, which, in case of oblique rain, can damage not only the basement of the building, but also the foundation. They are made of any iron (galvanized, of course, better!) And attached to the wall. At the corners connect a single standing lock.

Stuccoing. Spread the solution with a plaster blade, and spread and smear it on the wall with a falcon or a trowel. But getting an even layer is rarely possible, you need skill. Since the newbie-developer has no time to acquire the skill and there is no need, you can simplify everything by focusing on the solution itself and the technology of one hundred application on the wall.

So, before applying the solution, the wall must be prepared: clean from dust and possible influx of masonry mortar, and also moisten with water. A garden sprayer or sprinkler works well for this. It is better to apply the solution with rubber gloves and not with a tool. A thick layer of plaster is best done in two steps, allowing to dry, "grab" the bottom layer. Having "poured" the solution, it must be leveled in order to have time to eliminate its own oversights - sinks, irregularities.

Smoothness is achieved by mashing when the plaster dries slightly. It is best to do this with a sponge soaked in water: the surface layer of the plaster liquefies and tightens the remaining scratches. A well-plastered wall "praises itself", gaining an even matte tone.

Reinforcement reinforcement. When equipping a house with various security devices (gratings on windows, etc.), it is necessary to securely fix all the reinforcement regardless of the material - whether it be brick, concrete, stone or wood. Concrete is clearly not good: old and new concrete are fragile when bonded to each other. It can be replaced with polymer concrete. Here is the recipe: a mixture of sand and cement (grade 300 and above) is mixed with a liquid PVA solution or a bustilate.

In a brick or concrete wall, a hole for the fastening element is rolled up in the right place, priming the inner surface with a liquid solution of the glue on which the polymer concrete is made. Then a portion of concrete and a fastening element are introduced into the hole. Concreting bolts, studs, rods are deformed for more reliable fixation (fig. 33)

In wood, the reinforcement is installed on epoxy putties Calcium carbonate, aluminum oxide, talc, graphite, fine quartz sand kaolin, ground mica are kneaded on the glue

Working with glass. After many years of oblivion, stained-glass windows are back in fashion - glazing made of colored glass in the form of drawings, geometric shapes, and various kinds of abstractions. It is not easy to buy ready-made colored glasses, but you can make them yourself. For this, a gelatin coating, easily stained in any color, is well suited Recipe - 5 g of gelatin dissolve in 100 g of water at a temperature of 80-95 "Any dye can be added to this solution - ink, aniline, mix well and apply on a clean dry glass. The glass dries at room temperature. To protect from dampness, a dried coat can be applied with a varnish coat or covered with a second glass.

You can also make frosted glass for decorating a veranda yourself. There are two ways, applying liquid glass-based compositions to glass and etching glass with hydrofluoric acid. The same methods are also suitable for applying various kinds of patterns and even "eternal tulle"

Matting glass with silicate stationery glue, which is liquid glass, with and without dyes, requires a very thorough, almost perfect coating

There is an even more risky way to apply liquid glass when the pattern is chipped with a layer of glue, forming jagged

The etching method is more complicated, but will give a very good effect. 50% hydrofluoric acid is used. The glass is preliminarily treated with a layer of paraffin, on which the future drawing is drawn. Then, an acid is applied in a thin layer and etched for 5-10 seconds. It is better to do this outdoors so as not to breathe in harmful vapors Then the glass is washed with a solution of soda

"Dry" etching is safer. The solution is prepared from 12 parts of hydrofluoric acid, 10 parts of barium sulfate and 10 parts of ammonium fluoride. Pour the pattern prepared for etching with this solution and leave to dry. Then the glass is washed with a soda solution. There are other etching methods.

Now let's talk about how to cut glass correctly and avoid common mistakes.

The main condition is that the glass cutter must be in good working order and cut to the required depth, not break off the edge of the glass, sliding off it. To do this, it is better to grind off the glass cutter body, as shown in the figure.

The second trouble waiting for working with a glass cutter is the loss of the cutting line. To prevent this from happening, a side chamfer is removed from the tool body (Fig. 34).

Tapping the glass, cut along the entire length, is carried out from below and break off the cut edge either with a glass cutter or pliers, but in no case with your hand!

And finally, carrying sheets of glass. There are secrets too. You can see two of them in the pictures.

Film welding. There are many ways to join plastic films using a soldering iron, an electric burner, hot metal strip. But it is much easier to make a nozzle in the form of a rotating wheel or disk, which can be worn on a soldering iron tip.

If you make the wheel stepped, then they can not only weld, but also cut the film (Fig. 34).

Remember, this will come in handy! So that when cutting plywood its edges do not chip off, the place of the cut must be wetted with hot water. \u003e

To drive a pole for a fence, it is not necessary to drill a hole or dig a hole. It is necessary to remove the sod, pour water over this place and begin to hammer in a pillar, not forgetting to constantly add new portions of water. So you can deepen the post by 50 cm.

To cut a round stick along the end, you need to put on a clamp with a saw cut for the saw, which will be the guide.

If a film has formed on the paint layer, put on it an old nylon stocking and calmly dip the brush until you use all the paint. Then just throw the stocking away.

When preparing a solution on cement, mix it with a shovel. but with a pitchfork. This is more convenient and the mixture is more homogeneous.

Pole pits can be made using a sharply-but-1 pipe, removing the soil in portions through specially made holes.

If an uneven wire is pulled through a hole in a wooden plank (the plank should be tilted with respect to the direction of the wire), then it will be straightened almost perfectly.

When drilling tiles, the drill is moistened with turpentine, not water.

It is easy to turn out a tightly seated screw if you heat the head with a soldering iron.

Before painting metal objects, be sure to wipe them down with a cloth dipped in vinegar.

Devices and systems. If the bottom side of the door starts to cling to the floor, it is not necessary to remove it from its hinges. You need to palm off a well-placed carpentry hacksaw at an angle, step on it with your foot and open and close the door several times energetically.

In new homes, door frames are often loosened. To fix them, you need to drill two or three holes in the box and the end of the wall (from top to bottom) on each side, and hammer wooden plugs into them, and drive metal rods into the plugs (preferably forged ones).

A door that does not fit snugly holds the heel in the rubber hose. When nailing it to the jamb, do not forget to put washers under the heads of the nails, otherwise they will cut through the hose and nullify all your work.

It will blow less from the front door if the gap between the door and the jamb on the hinge side is closed with a strip of plastic film. It can be secured with simple pushpins. To avoid blowing under the doors, nail a sealing roller made of a strip of cloth or other dense material onto their bottom end.

A small piece of graphite, placed in the slot of the raised door hinge, will save you from squeaking - the graphite will crumble into powder and will serve as an excellent lubricant for the hinges for a long time.

A drop of engine oil put into the hinge loops will also save you from squeaking.

When hanging doors, it is better to use removable hinges, which are divided into right and left. They are also convenient in that the door can be lifted with a washer inserted between the hinge parts, and the hinge parts cut off at an angle allow the door to be tightly closed and easily opened, since it “rolls over”.

To prevent the wide-swinging door from knocking off the plaster on the wall with a handle, it is necessary to nail a stop in the form of a cone, which will fix the door. To prevent the same door from damaging the furniture standing next to the jamb, a rubber suction cup from a soap dish or an old toy must be fixed on it.

If the doors swing open by themselves or close from the slightest breath of breeze, then this can only mean that the hinges are set incorrectly. In the first case, the upper loop must be deepened, and in the second, put a gasket under the loop.

Sheds, gates, wickets. All of them use simple hinge mechanisms, which are a hook with a loop on it. Hinges can also be used, but they will require maintenance - lubrication, screwing in screws. There are also more closed hinge systems, widely used by our ancestors. Some of their varieties you see in the figures. The main requirement for them is simplicity and reliability. Moreover, the structures themselves - awnings, gates and wickets - are always in extreme weather conditions and their main purpose is to shelter people, animals and plantings from rain, wind, snow.

Window shutters play a different role. Their hinge mechanisms, like the locking mechanisms, must be absolutely reliable (Fig. 34). The same type of protective devices includes blinds, gratings, nets, curtains. We do not consider their devices, but we give pictures of some of them (Fig. 35).

Window. The glasses are cut so that they easily fit into the folds, filling them about three-quarters in width, then the glass will not burst in the frame swollen with water.

When stuffing the frame studs, use a curved nail with a chopped sharp end to protect the glass from scratches.

It is more practical to insert glass on a double putty, which in this method must be loose, in the form of a roller or tape along the entire length and width of the fold. Glass is placed on it, pressed tightly around the entire perimeter, so that there are no places not filled with putty between it and the sides of the folds. The putty squeezed out is smoothed with a knife at a right angle or cone. This helps to achieve tightness.

Twin glass (with an air gap) installed in the window reduces heat loss, attenuates noise, does not freeze in frosts. The two glasses must be stacked on top of each other through a cardboard spacer covered with oil paint. You can also use a rubber pad.

A small rectangle made of cardboard, tin or other dense material, applied to the glass, will protect the glass from accidental smears when painting the window sashes.

If this happened, then dried paint is best scraped off with a razor blade or cut off with a sharpened chisel.

If you need to open the vents right away, then it is better to hook them together. You can fix the width of the opening of the open window with a hinged limiter assembled from parts of a children's designer. You can make this stopper from an old folding rule by tapping the rivets with a hammer and punching holes for screws or nails.

To prevent dust from accumulating in the window closed for the winter, block the gap between the inner and outer vents with a piece of thin cardboard or thick paper to match the color of the windows, or paint it beforehand - the partition will not stand out much. This will reduce heat transfer between the frames, and the room will be ventilated faster.

Covering and sealing windows can be combined in one operation. Warm up a syringe without a needle and paraffin (candle) in hot water (at least 70 °). Put paraffin into the syringe and fill it with all the slots from top to bottom

Locks and locks. In addition to locks, temporary and permanent locks are installed in the houses: latches of the spin-biscuit type, heck, turntables, embedded slats or beams.

It makes no sense to describe them - they are known to everyone. But in some cases, these locks go well with both overhead and internal locks, not to mention padlocks.

So, an overhead lock with a retractable bolt in combination with an ordinary window bolt (Fig. 34) no one can open with a key while you are at home. No one will enter the house if the door, in addition to the lock, is also closed with a chain or closed with a latch.

It is impossible to knock out the door if you put it on the stop, as can be seen in the figure.

There are reliable locks that secure locks. One of them is the “secret” heck depicted in the figure. It works according to the principle of a French lock, where the larva 1 walks freely in the cage 2. Spring 3 with the rod 4 fixed in the handle 5 allows the larva 1 to snap into place behind the lug 6. The rod 7 from a reliable nylon cord is thrown over the blocks and ends with a camouflaged handle or pedal with which you can easily open the door from the outside.

By this type, you can develop your own designs of hidden constipations.

A reliable way of protection is to jam the lock itself with a plate resembling a broken key. Not knowing a secret, you can't get it out. And the secret may lie in a special slot or drilled hole through which the wedge is removed with a paper clip or a piece of wire. You can also insert a plate without grips, but then it is removed with a thin file from a jigsaw. By the way, with a file, you can get really broken keys.

Doorbells. It is known that an electric bell is an annoying thing and quite noisy. The sharpness of the sound can be reduced by sticking a strip of adhesive tape between the hammer and the drummer, but the timbre ... However, the craftsmen also found a way out here, suggesting that instead of an electric bell, put a bicycle bell on the door, passing the scourge from its tongue through a pre-drilled hole in the door and the jamb ...

This principle can be used to install other signaling devices: gongs, bells, hammers, etc.

The painter needs only ingenuity! Paint brushes are an eternal problem: it’s not easy to buy and save after work. And their variety is so great that you literally get lost: do you need so many brushes? Unfortunately, it is necessary. There are no universal ones and each is intended for its own type of work (Fig. 36, 37).

However, most of the brushes can be made by yourself. And it is quite simple: take a piece of bast or nylon thread, pull them together with twine or wire, put them on a stick, chop off with an ax - and that's it. As in the picture, for example.

Many of the brushes will successfully replace the foam rollers and even a vacuum cleaner with a spray gun!

So, brushes. Hair from the paint brush will not fall out and remain on the surface to be painted if you drill a hole in the clip (crimp ring) and put a few drops of waterproof glue inside. By combining a spatula and a brush, you have a versatile tool for removing sag and putty residues. To do this, cut the handle of the brush and insert an iron plate into it, securely fastening. To whitewash the ceiling, you need a long-handled brush. An ordinary brush is pushed onto a long stick, the end of which is cut off at an angle of 30 ° and a piece of rubber hose is put on, in which two holes are made for the handle of the brush. It is much more reliable than simply attaching a brush. To prevent paint from dripping from the brush onto you, slide half a rubber ball over the handle. The same task will be performed by a cardboard screen rolled up in a cone. The seam of the cone must be smeared with plasticine.

The role of a wide brush can be performed by an ordinary shoe brush.

Foam brushes are good. They do not leave streaks because they absorb paint well.

How to paint? Firstly, there is no need to open windows and doors, create drafts. Prepare all painted surfaces for work in advance: remove sconces and chandeliers, paintings and carpets, move or remove furniture, repair cracks. First of all, they paint the ceiling. Apply a slow layer of paint or whitewash towards the window. Whitewash on a slightly moistened surface - it is better to pre-wash the ceiling with warm water and sodium chloride (50-100 g of salt per 10-liter bucket). Apply any paint with a thin layer: 2-3 layers are always stronger than one thick one.

Start coloring with a few criss-cross strokes, and then rub them. Do not put a lot of paint on the brush and roller, so as not to paint yourself.

After finishing work, wash and dry your brushes thoroughly.

Bcl about paint. No matter how tightly cover the paint can, small holes remain. To get rid of them, turn the can for a second. The paint will fill these holes, and the air will no longer be afraid of the contents of the can.

Dipping a roller or brush directly into a can of paint is hardly advisable. It’s easier to use some kind of net loosely stretched over a jar and tied with twine. It can be gauze, nylon, metal mesh. It not only dispenses paint, but also saves you the need to filter it if a film has formed in the paint.

Rollers. Large surfaces (floor, walls, ceiling) should be painted with a roller. However, before you put it into work, you need to paint over with a brush the places where the roller cannot be turned around.

It’s easy to make a paint roller yourself. To do this, it is enough to grind a round blank, cover it with foam rubber, artificial fur or other fleecy material. Thoroughly thread the ends, make the seam neat. Bend a hook from a thick wire, the axis of which should be longer than the roller. The hole in the roller can be pierced or drilled. Bend the end of the hook or cut the thread for the nut. Put the handle on the other end of the hook. Other options are also possible (fig. 35).

Take a note. Adhesives are divided into three groups: animal, vegetable and synthetic resin. The first group includes - bone, casein, milk casein, casein with brown, casein with ammonia solution, casein with slaked lime, casein with caustic soda, gelatin waterproof, for glass and porcelain on egg white. Here are three recipes without additives, the use of which will be specified in the note.

Bone glue. Available in tiles and granules. 400 g of glue must be melted in a water bath in 2.25 liters of water and displaced with 80 g of dextrin, 30 g of sugar and 110 g of glycerin. If you add 130 g of nigrosine, the glue turns black. It is used for gluing joinery.

Casein glue. Mix 300 g of casein with 40 g of sodium fluoride, 120 g of powdered slaked lime, 30 g of borax or soda ash. When mixed with water, this mixture thickens slowly and has high adhesive properties. Casein glue can be used to glue plastic with wood.

Gelatin waterproof glue. Dissolve 100 g of gelatin in 500 ml of warm water. Dissolve 70-80 g of potassium dichromate separately in 250-300 ml of water. Heat both solutions to a temperature of 30-35 ° and mix. The resulting glue is used when gluing plywood with a plastic, glass with wood, oilcloths with brick. Additives of ammonia, caustic soda and slaked lime do not allow it to quickly set and strengthen the bonded seams.

Adhesives of plant origin include: dextrin, light clerical, dextrin-starch, from potato starch and mixtures thereof. We give two recipes for the preparation of glue.

Light clerical glue. Dissolve 10 g of borax in 200 ml of warm water. Add 100 g of dextrin to the solution while stirring. Cook the resulting mass for several minutes, then add 10 g of hydrogen peroxide. The hot solution must be filtered. The glue is suitable not only for working with paper, but also for small carpentry work.

Adhesive for glass, paper, porcelain and leather. Stir 50 g of crushed and sifted quicklime, 10 g of flour and 5 g of linseed oil until the mixture turns into a thick viscous mass.

There are many synthetic adhesives. Let us dwell on two of them: rubber and liquid glass. Although both are sold ready-made, but they can be made at home. Especially rubber. To do this, it is enough to put 10 g of finely chopped rubber (raw rubber) into a jar and pour 100 g of benzene. Close the jar tightly. After the rubber has dissolved, the glue is ready to use.

Now about the putties. Since many of them are made with glues, the conversation can only go about fillers. They are most often chalk, cement, gypsum, asbestos. But there are putties, which themselves act as glue and are used when working with metal, glass, wood, rubber, leather, linoleum.

Here are some recipes.

Finely chopped linoleum is filled with acetone. After 5-6 hours, the putty is ready. Putty can cover the cracks in the floor, repair the aquarium, seal pipe joints.

200 g of lead sulfate mixed with a solution of 50 g of glycerol and 50 ml of water. Stir everything vigorously. Since the mixture hardens quickly, it must be used immediately. It is suitable for working with metal, glass, wood, stone, brick.

Melt 200 g of finely chopped rubber and 175 g of rosin in an enamel bowl in a water bath.

Add 125 g of linseed oil to the cooled mixture. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous mass is obtained. The resulting putty is waterproof. It can be used for gluing rubber tires on a leather base, for repairing shoes. Hot applied

How to measure timber? After all, it is not sold by the piece and not by weight, and the measurement technique in volumes is rather complicated, even the regulatory authorities are not always able to check the accuracy of the release from the base or warehouse. "We will try to help you.

The volume of the slab, according to the rules, is pre-sorted by length into two groups (up to 2 m and more) and stacked with thin and thick ends alternately, and the slab surface is up and down. Short stacked with a dock. The stack should have the same height, as well as right angles and the most dense stacking. After that, by multiplying the average height of the package by length and width, its cubic capacity is determined. In this regard, there are concepts of dense and compact cubic meters, which, according to the conversion factor, are translated into the concept of dense mass. For croaker, this coefficient is 0.48

The volume of sawn softwood and hardwood is determined in two ways: by measuring and by calculating Or using the gost cubature, where there are the necessary tables of volumes of one meter of length and piece For example, you need to find the volume of 70 edged boards 22 mm thick, 125 mm wide and 4 , 5 m. According to the table, this is 0.01238 m 3 Multiply by the number of boards and we get 0.8666 m 3

As for the measurement of unedged sawn timber, there is a specificity here, the width of the unedged and edged board is defined as half the sum of the widths of two layers measured in the middle of the board without bark

Round timber is also measured in accordance with GOST according to the thickness of the upper end and the length of the log.So, a log with an upper diameter of 18 cm and a length of 6 mm has a volume of 0 194 m 3 Therefore, they should only be counted and multiplied. Moreover, logs larger than 16 cm belong to the category of sawlog, and it has a different price

Fig 20. The simplest crafts.

A uprooter; B ax sticks; V. G planted with pads; D simple wagterpass. E plumb line; F hose with pipettes (a simple and accurate level gauge of two is accurate on a plane); 3 spray bottle; (1 sklzdmm shovel; To a simple tree barometer

P and s. 30. Pipe connection options:

A - union lock (1 - coupling, 2 - flange, 3 - rubber gasket, 4 - pipe, 5 - clamp loop, 6 - tie bolt); B - quick-release lock (1 - coupling half, 2 - tooth under the carabiner loop, 3 - hinge, 4 - carabiner, 5 - hinge, 6 - pipe, / - flange, 8 - rubber gasket); В - "spherical" joint (L - pipes, hoses, 2 - hemisphere, 3 - rubber gasket, 4 - hairpin); D - one-bolt docking option * (1 - pipes, 2 - butted heads, 3 - tie bolt, 4 - rubber gasket).

Fig. 31. Manual seeder:

1 - wheel, 2 - seed roller, 3 - tubular handle, 4 - bracket, 5 - wooden cushions, b - rubber tube, 7 - coupling bolt, 8 - locking bolt, 9 - opener, 10 - handle, 11 - coupling bolt , 12 - steel plate, B - sealing loop.

A - articulated harrow (1 - frame, 2 - teeth, 3 - deflecting lever, 4 - bar, 5 - hydraulic cylinder); b - ring aggregate (1 - frame, 2 - drum with pegs, 3 - transmission chain, 4 - sprocket, 5 - transmission from the engine); B - rotary harrow (1 - rod frame, 2 - spoke comb); G - potato sorting; D - sprinkler; E - sprayer (1 - device assembled, 2 - mandrel for sieve extrusion).

A - bracket for tightening weights (1 - body, 2 - adjustable bracket, 3 - stops, 4 - roller with a spring, 5 - spring, 6 - cable, 7 - hook loop, 8 - lever, 9 - fixed fastening of the throughput loop, i.0 - removable fastening of the loop through for refueling the cable); B - solar generator (glazed black tank ;; C - solar generator from the condenser of the refrigerator; D - rain collector for the garage; D - hose level for beating off the “zero” mark; E - fastening the grilles reinforcement (1 - fastening in concrete or brick wall, 2 - fastening in a wooden wall); F - fastening the lattice plate on pins; 3 - a nail with herringbone notches.

Fig. 34. Hinges

GA - a canopy, B - a wedge, B - a joint, G - a ring, D - a lock, B - a ball, F - an angle, 3 - a seam, And - a spring); K - shutters (1 - shutter hinges, 2 - krkzh for temporary fastening, 3 - a through splinter with a pin, 4 - a strip of the vestibule); L - lock with a latch; M - welding and cutting of the film; H - secret latch (H - lock, 2 - body, 3 - spring rod (4) on the stop connected to the lock (5), 6 - inlet for the lock, 7 - nylon lace that opens the latch); O - a sample of sharpening a glass cutter so as not to beat off the edge of the glass; P - sharpening sample for marking; R - transfer of glass "by hand to a thing"; C - transfer of glass on the shoulder (be sure to put a rail or cardboard under the string).

A - blinds; B, C, D, D - gratings (beam, ring, geometric and picture); E - a door on an emphasis; F - grid on the window; 3 - a brush for whitewashing on a long stick; And - the rollers

for painting.

Fig. 36. Paint brushes.

Fig. 37. Homemade brushes.

In any private household or private farm you can find various types of equipment that are used to facilitate labor and increase its productivity. A mini technique for personal compound is used for cultivating the land, caring for livestock and poultry. With its help, crops and fertilizers are transported.

Not every farmer has enough financial resources to buy powerful machinery. In a personal backyard, you have to do with small forces. Correctly selected mini equipment is capable of performing a wide range of agricultural work. She may be:

• portable;
• pedestrian;
• riding;
• stationary.

Portable equipment includes a mechanized tool that is held by hands, suspended on the shoulders or mounted on road wheels. The power of such devices does not exceed 3 kW. This equates to approximately 4 hp.

Pedestrian equipment - walk-behind tractors, motor-cultivators, motor-mowers, motor-cultivators, etc. It is driven by hand traction. The power of this type of equipment can reach 10 kW or about 13 hp.

The power of the driving equipment reaches 18 kW or 22 hp. This group includes minitractors of traction class 0.2 and walk-behind tractor units.

Stationary equipment - sprayers, pumping stations, etc. Power devices up to 10 kW. That is 13 bhp.

Minitractor

The basis of the line of mini-tractors on the Russian market is represented by equipment of Belarusian, Chinese, and South Korean manufacturers. An insignificant part of it is made up of European, American and Japanese brands. The latter types of equipment have not gained wide popularity among Russian farmers due to the complexity and high cost of maintenance.

Domestic manufacturers are represented on the mini-tractor market by equipment, which is a large-node assembly of well-known brands. Most Russian farmers buy mini-tractors made in China. In recent years, their build quality has improved significantly. A good technical base has been created for them in the country, on which repairs and maintenance are carried out.

Rules for choosing a mini tractor

When choosing any type of equipment, each buyer is guided by their financial capabilities. They define the limit of opportunity, within which they select a suitable mini tractor. There are a number of criteria to help you make the right choice. It is important to choose the best technique for yourself and not to overpay extra amounts for it.

Before buying a mini tractor, determine the list of works on which it is planned to be used. This helps determine the required power of the equipment. Budget mini-tractors with a power of 16-20 hp can handle the processing of small plots of land. Among other parameters that you need to consider when buying:

• type and fuel consumption;
• type of drive;
• shaft speed

Only four-wheel drive allows the mini-tractor to move freely through the fields. The heavier the technique, the more stable it is. A prerequisite for the purchase is a test drive. The technique must be easy to operate. All modern mini-tractor models have steering. People who know how to drive cars easily master this technique.

Each mini tractor has special attachments for attachments. It is better to buy it complete with basic equipment. This will avoid further problems of joining various nodes. You need to buy a mini-tractor from trusted manufacturers.

Which mini tractor is better to buy: characteristics, capabilities

When purchasing a mini tractor, it will never be superfluous to consult a specialist or reviews from other buyers.

Table. The best-selling mini tractors in Russia

Mini Tractor Model	Specifications	Features
	Diesel engine power 22 hp The maximum speed is 27.35 km / h. Fuel tank capacity 8 liters. Rear-wheel drive transmission. The turning circle of the front wheels is 3.9 m. Gearbox - 6 gears. The engine is started using an electric starter. Weight without attachment 960 kg.	The mini tractor is assembled in Russia from non-native parts. This does not reduce the degree of reliability of its work.
	Diesel engine power 24 hp Weight without attachments 1040 kg. Rear-wheel drive transmission. The gearbox has 8 steps. The engine is started with an electric starter	Mini tractor without a closed cabin. Full Chinese assembly.
	Fuel tank capacity 6 liters. Diesel engine power 22 HP Rear-wheel drive transmission. Gearbox - 6 steps.	The minitractor is assembled in Russia under a Chinese license.

Motor-cultivators and walk-behind tractors

Motor-cultivators and walk-behind tractors have a lot in common. Their main difference is power. In motoblocks it is much higher. The technique can run on electricity and liquid fuel. Its main purpose is land cultivation. The favorites of sales in Russia are models from German manufacturers. Following them in this segment of agricultural machinery are Japanese and American brands.

Unlike mini tractors, walk-behind tractors and motor-cultivators are relatively lightweight. When choosing a vehicle of this class, pay attention to the type of their engine. For processing land plots remote from an electric power source, equipment running on gasoline or diesel fuel is suitable. You can cultivate the land near the house on a motor-cultivator and walk-behind tractors, powered by electricity.

When buying motoblocks, you need to pay attention to their power and weight. The produced equipment is divided into 3 classes, each of which is designed for certain working conditions:

DIY agricultural machinery

In any farm there is always improvised material suitable for the manufacture of agricultural machinery. Engineering knowledge and design skills will always find application in subsidiary farming. For example, they will help turn the walk-behind tractor into a mini tractor.

Step-by-step instructions for converting a walk-behind tractor into a mini tractor

A big drawback of walk-behind tractors is manual traction. It is compensated by prices that are lower than the cost of mini tractors. Skillful hands in a short time are able to turn a walk-behind tractor into a mini-tractor with minimal costs. The process of reworking a walk-behind tractor begins with the preparation of calculations and construction drawings. In the absence of experience in design activities, it is better to use other people's developments.

Step 1. A frame and a body for a mini-tractor are welded from metal sheets, profiled pipes and a corner. Their mass must be calculated taking into account the power of the engine. If the design uses a walk-behind tractor with a powerful unit, then car trailers can be used in its device. Two-wheeled carts are best suited for adapting a walk-behind tractor to a mini tractor.

During the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to provide for the arrangement of fasteners for the suspended equipment. Special holes are made along the frame contour for future installation of cab and body elements.

Step 2. Component parts are selected for the prepared frame of the future mini tractor. For these purposes, motorists can find many useful things in the garage. From a VAZ passenger car, you can take pedal control units and a drum brake for driving wheels. For a penny, the necessary parts can be found at car disassembly.

Step 3. Installation of bridges
Nodes are assembled from various elements. You can take them from old cars or agricultural equipment. Bridges are independently made from:

The rear axle can be used from an old UAZ. It will have to be shortened slightly. Short axles are suitable for a shortened version of the rear axle.

Step 4. Installing wheels

When choosing wheels for a mini tractor, you need to take into account the fact that they have a direct impact on the controllability of the equipment. Too large wheels when cornering make the driver apply great effort to control the technique. Small wheels bury the tractor in the ground. The optimum wheel size for the front axle is 12-14 inches.

Minitractor tires must be fitted with lugs. They significantly increase the maneuverability of technology.

Step 5. Installing the control system and driver's seat

Control systems begin to do after the installation of the chassis. The steering wheel follows the installation of the driver's seat in the installation sequence. It adjusts the height of the steering wheel. It should not constrain the driver when driving the equipment.

Step 6. Installing the engine and body

Installing the engine and debugging its operation are the final stages of the mini tractor assembly. The installation of the engine is started after the chassis is assembled. The unit is installed on a special plate. It should have grooves for fastening. After installing the engine, an electrical circuit is installed and the steering system and dashboard are connected.

At the final stage of converting a walk-behind tractor into a minitractor, the cab sheathing is done.

Video - Converting a walk-behind tractor into a mini tractor

What can be made an irrigation system for a garden

Watering plants in the garden can be attributed to time-consuming work. You have to spend a lot of time and physical effort on it. You can make it easier for yourself to take care of your garden by making an irrigation system from scrap materials. The design of the system depends on the water source. It could be:

The intake of water from the well, natural reservoirs and tanks is carried out using a pump. The optimal pump for the garden is "Kid". Him:

Hoses with holes are laid in the garden for drip irrigation of plants. Water from them must fall under the root of the plant. When taking water for irrigation from the water supply, the hoses are connected to the tap. If a pump is used, the hoses are connected at its outlet nozzle.

Among the advantages of drip irrigation:

• saving water consumption;
• mechanization of manual labor.

You can read more about making equipment for watering a garden in.

What can an old washing machine in a utility room come in handy for

You never need to rush to take the old washing machine for scrap. From it you can make various devices for the farm. For example, adapt it for washing vegetables. For this, the machine is installed above the drainage system. It acts as a local sewer. Vegetables are loaded into the linen hatch. Water is supplied to the machine using a portable hose. Waste water to gravity exit the washing machine into the drainage system. Such a system of washing vegetables works on the principle of a colander.

From an old washing machine, you can make an original flower bed, barbecue or smokehouse. The drum and the electric motor are used to make the grass chopper, grain grinder and other accessories.

Circular from the grinder

The easiest way to turn a grinder into a saw is to replace the standard blade with one designed for wood. Such a device has a limited range of action. It can cut slats or thin bars. A protective casing is put on the grinder. The handle is made a continuation of the body.

A miter saw is required to cross-cut lumber. You can make it from a grinder by fixing the tool on the turntable. For cutting a large number of lumber, a circular saw is used. With its help, you can cut a board or bar of any size. Making a circular saw requires some knowledge. The saw blade on the circular saw is mounted on a table mounted on the frame. A 50 * 50 corner is used for its manufacture.

Sawing table is made of plywood or board. The control button and the switch are carried out on the side. You can figure out how to make a circular from a grinder using the video.

Video - How to make a circular from a grinder

Homemade for the garden

Fantasy summer residents knows no bounds. From improvised materials, they make a variety of devices that facilitate their work in the field, garden or garden.

Long-term storage of the root crop requires compliance with certain storage conditions. After digging, the potatoes are sorted, cleaned of dirt and dried from excess moisture. Store tubers better in boxes. In such containers there is a natural ventilation of potatoes, which significantly reduces the percentage of rotting.

For the manufacture of the box using slats 15 * 20, whetstone 40 * 40 or 50 * 50, plywood 8-10 mm thick.

Grape crush press

You can make a press yourself from a barrel, a filter mesh and a screw mechanism. You can replace the barrel with a mesh cylinder, in the screw mechanism with a regular jack. When using a barrel, its sides are expanded due to the cracks that are made between the side rails. The width of the slits is 2-3 mm. The barrel is installed on a frame specially made for it from a metal profile. The grapes are laid in a barrel, which is closed by a lid having a diameter corresponding to the internal size of the container.

Using a screw mechanism or a jack, pressure is applied to the cover. Under its action, the grape gives juice, which flows out of the barrel through the cracks. To collect it, a prefabricated pallet is installed under the bottom of the barrel.

You have successfully logged into the youtube channel video “Hands from shoulders”. The host just has a great portion of homemade ideas for the household.

1. Everyone had to beat off the oil paint from the wall at least once. Not a pleasant experience. If there is still work to be done like this, a great way to facilitate this process. It is very simple to make such a scapula. And the time saved is better spent on something more pleasant and useful. Now you don't have to scrape the wall with your own hands. Great idea for a household.

2. If there is no punch, well, there is a grinder, then using a diamond cup, you can also do this job. Having made a casing with a pipe for a vacuum cleaner, get rid of most of it. Without a casing, I will be so much that you can easily turn into a snowman.

3. When working with curved parts it is often necessary to know their dimensions. You can, of course, attach a rope or wire. There is a better way. A homemade curvimeter will definitely tell you the length of the curved track. We twist the roller to the handle itself. We draw a curvimeter along the line that needs to be measured. At the same time, the roller will unscrew a certain distance. Then it remains to take a tape measure and measure the distance to complete twisting.

4. Many live in private houses or have summer cottages or vegetable gardens. There will come a hot time when you have to plant seedlings. In order not to crawl on the beds on the karachiks, there is a cool device. It is unlikely that you expected that tedious work can be done quickly and easily. The author claims that with this method, to facilitate the work of agricultural workers, up to 2,000 bushes can be planted free per day. If the seedlings are planted in large cups, or have already greatly grown, then the option with a shorter tube is suitable.

The principle of a home-made device for planting cabbage: a 100 mm pipe, two triangular plates rolled with a groove are welded from below, one tightly, the second on a hinge, plus a leg with a return spring to it, at 30, 45 degrees. A support plate for the pipe to adjust the depth of fit. Handles and a ring for a bucket. A bit of scrap metal and half a day of work.

5. When planting potatoes, there is also an interesting alternative to a shovel. This homemade design is even simpler than the previous one.

6. An interesting idea of \u200b\u200ba clamp for a drilling machine. It will allow you to securely fix the workpieces without resorting to a vice. Thanks to the lever, the necessary pressure is achieved to hold the parts.

7. Super compact version of folding goat, homemade product will definitely come in handy on the farm. The legs are connected by springs.

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Small-scale mechanization for household plots

1) Diagram of a device for collecting bee venom

4) Home-made mini-electric mills for producing coarse and fine flour, mixed feed, peeling sunflower, grinding chalk, salt, grain waste, homemade grinder, etc.

5) Feeder cutter - for chopping any grass, root crops, ears and many others.

6) Powerful stationary wind farm - Provides electricity to a house, a manor, a farm or a summer cottage.

7) "Camping wind farm" - Compact, weighs only 1.5 kg, quickly disassembled and folded into a backpack. An irreplaceable thing for fishermen, tourists, etc.

8) “Portable power station with a gasoline-motor generator” - Compact, gives a voltage of 220 and 380 volts. The application possibilities are unique

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13) Description of the latest system of automated watering of a summer cottage and garden beds.

14) "Water supply of a personal plot or summer cottage" - mechanisms for drilling, drainage devices, methods of building concrete wells, automatic machines for water supply and irrigation of beds.

15) Designs of 10 types of household smokehouses (some can even be placed in the kitchen). Recipes for smoking and cooking boiled pork, rolls, sausages, cervelat, salami, fish. Autoclaves for sterilizing and preserving any food, meat, vegetables, fruits.

16) Multi-body hive, lounger hive for 16 and 20 frames, universal cassettes, methods of dealing with Varrow tick, etc.

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20) Simple incubators and incubation modes for chickens, ducks, turkeys, guinea fowl and many others. birds. From what chickens die and how to avoid it. How to shorten the incubation period.

21) A multi-tiered mini-farm for rabbits - covers an area of \u200b\u200bonly 1.4 square meters.

22) Quail mini farm in the basement

Simple but very useful tools that will come in handy on the farm.

Of course, someone believes that in everyday life you can be satisfied with a minimum, but when there are a lot of things that can make life easier, and turn routine activities into pleasant chores, it is so hard to deny yourself the pleasure of trying them out. And in our review there are 15 simple but very useful devices that will always come in handy on the farm.

1. The device for cooking eggs

A special steam machine for 4 eggs that will boil them quickly and easily.

2. Extension socket

The socket of the outlet is attached to a long cord, which will allow you to conveniently use a vacuum cleaner or move around the apartment without interrupting charging.

3. Remote control for finding things

This device will forever help you get rid of the painful search for small and necessary things, such as keys, TV remote control, telephone and others. It is a remote control and several key fobs equipped with radio sensors.

4. Hiking chair bag

This duffel bag easily converts into a folding camping chair.

5. Rocking bed

A versatile piece of furniture that combines a highchair and a crib for a newborn. The design of this product allows it to swing slightly, which the child will surely like.

6. Universal glass

Double-sided glass for drinking beer and shots.

7. Cutting board-transformer

A cutting board designed for cutting vegetables, which makes it easy to drain excess fluid.

8.Phone holder

Hanging shelf holder with convenient mount.

9. Device for cutting watermelons and melons

A very simple and easy-to-use device that will easily allow you to cut a watermelon or melon into neat slices.

10. Taco stand

A fun taco stand.

11. Spoon holder

This small spoon holder attaches to the pot, keeping kitchen surfaces clean.

12. "Whatnot" for the oven

The design of several metal shelves allows you to cook several dishes in the oven at the same time.

13. Cupcake knife

A small screwdriver knife that allows you to make neat cuts in the cupcakes for the filling.

14. Baby cot

A compact baby bed, which consists of three walls and a mount that can be attached to an adult bed.

15. Shoe hanger

Such a shoe holder fits in any closet and permanently eliminates bulky shoe boxes.

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Interesting homemade products for the garden and do-it-yourself garden

DIY drawings for a summer residence and a garden will be useful to everyone. A dacha is the ultimate dream, if not of any average person, then every second person for sure. Of course, not everyone will be lucky in their life to become the owner of a suburban area, but those who are nevertheless lucky need to constantly monitor and refine it, which requires considerable expenses. Do-it-yourself homework helps to maintain your cottage in impeccable condition. Today we will tell you a few secrets on how to save on buying the necessary things for a summer residence and make them at home. A grader with your own hands or self-propelled guns for a tractor, of course, will not work for everyone, but most homemade products will definitely come in handy on the farm.

Do-it-yourself variator for the machine

If you need to constantly work at the machine, then a frequent change in speeds leads to wear on the unit and has an additional disadvantage, which is the regular stop of the device. Alternatively, you can use a homemade variator for the machine. It can be made from wood with your own hands, without significant investment of time and money. CVT cones are made of hardwood, and you do not need to use a lathe to make them, you can cut them with a jigsaw at an angle equal to the angle of inclination of the cone.

Scheme clinker variator Mironov.

If you are going to assemble a cone from discs, then they must be glued or nailed down later. The finished cones are set deep on metal rods, while attaching them with screws. In order for the belt to move evenly on the machine, roller guides are required. Rollers can be taken from furniture fittings, but if they are not, ordinary bearings can be used.

An old washing machine is a real treasure

If you have a working motor from a washing machine, then this is a very valuable find, since many useful devices can be made from it. The easiest way is to make an excellent emery from the engine from a washing machine for sharpening knives, various tools and drills.

The main problem in the manufacture of the device is the attachment of the sharpening stone to the engine body itself. In most cases, the whetstone has a hole that does not fit the motor shaft. That is why you need to make a flange that, on the one hand, can be pressed onto the shaft, and on the other hand, it will have a thread, which will allow you to screw in and fix the grinding wheel.

Image 1. Emery device from the engine of an old washing machine.

The experienced craftsmen recommend that beginners use old pipe cuts of 32 mm and a length of no more than 20 cm as a flange. On one pipe segment we make a thread that should be 2 times longer than the thickness of the grinding wheel. The other end of the pipe is heated with a soldering iron and put on the shaft. To better hold the pipe, it can be bolted together. After that, they take 3 nuts and screw them onto the flange from the thread side until they stop, then put on a washer and, finally, a grinding wheel, then again a washer, secure with a nut. At the end, you can also add a locknut.

The hardest work is done, after that it remains just to fix the engine, but this is a very individual procedure, since it is not known what holes are on the engine from your washing machine for fasteners. Based on them, you need to make a stand, it is best to use small corners, fastening them together and installing emery on a workbench. The final step will be to connect the engine to the mains. You can look at the finished version of the sharpener in the photo, drawings are also attached (image 1).

Picture 2. Grill from the drum of the washing machine.

Home-made products for summer cottages can also be made from other parts of the machine, for example, a great barbecue can be obtained from a drum. The drum in the washing machines is made of stainless steel, which is important in itself, since the case is very strong and reliable. It is very simple to make home-made products for giving from the drum, you just need to remove it from the machine body, but together with the shaft and pulley. We put the pulled out drum with the hatch on top and with the wheel down. So the brazier is ready, with the help of a grinder, you can, of course, cut the front of the drum or sides so that it is more convenient to throw firewood, but here it all depends on your free time and imagination. Such an impromptu roasting pan looks very neat, while the drum is studded with small holes, which allows air to evenly distribute over the coals and provide the necessary heat (image 2).

Hand circular saw from a grinder

Image 3. Circuit diagram of a circular saw.

A circular in the country is a very useful thing, few people know, but you can make it from a grinder. You just have to finish 2 elements: the sliding stop and the axial handle. After that, you can use your circular saw from the grinder at any time.

As a sliding stop, 2 small pieces of a metal corner are suitable. The edges of the corner are rounded off so that they do not catch the part during processing. The corners are connected to each other at the back and front with bolts or nuts. On the body of the above power tool itself, you need to put on a clamp made of metal tape. To the screw coupler of the clamp, which will be located below, fasten a double-folded strip of tin or galvanized steel with a hole for the rear bolt of the sliding stop.

In the gearbox of the grinder, we make 4 small holes for the M5 bolts. For convenience, the gearbox can be disassembled first to better see where the hole can be made. These 4 holes are required to attach the handle. The handle can be made from a regular metal tube. On this, the manual version of the saw from the grinder is finished, if you want to make a real stationary version of the circular saw, then you will need more skills, tools and well-calculated drawings (image 3).

Agricultural equipment and devices

Agricultural machinery - very important tools in the country, without which no owner can do. Agricultural equipment today is worth a lot, and you don’t really want to spend a lot of money on a thing that is rarely used, but you can’t do without it. One of the most popular devices is a car, it can be made from improvised means, thereby saving a lot of money. To make it you need:

Image 4. Drawings of a homemade cart.

• wheel, preferably made of rubber;
• plywood;
• 2 corners;
• wooden block, 3 m long;
• nuts and bolt axle.

The method of making this tool for giving is very simple and will be understandable even to a novice master, the main thing here is to measure everything clearly, because if you do it by eye, it will turn out crooked. Drawings of a wheelbarrow are attached (image 4).

An equally popular tool for a summer cottage, which in winter will help get rid of snow, that is, a shovel can also be made of plywood. You will need:

• plywood 10-12 mm thick;
• wooden stalk;
• nails
• steel plate 4-6 cm wide.

The plywood will serve as a shovel bucket, and the timber will hold the handle. The front and back of the plywood are edged with metal - the future bucket.

A rake is often required for processing a vegetable garden. For their manufacture you will need a wooden block 35 by 35 mm. The length of the handle can be cracked at your discretion, but it is not recommended to make too long, since it will be difficult to use it. In addition to the bar and handle, you need to make at least 4 metal prongs. Metal must be taken strong so that it does not bend to the ground during operation. You can use metal from an old shovel, cut the teeth with a grinder. The teeth are leveled with a hammer and drilled holes for the screws. Then the structure is fastened.

Video about making a cart with your own hands:

Garden sprinkler design

Homemade agricultural equipment also includes sprinklers for the garden, which can be made practically from waste that everyone has in the house. To irrigate the garden you will need:

• spray;
• rubber hose 3-4 m long;
• one and a half liter plastic bottle;
• pump;
• a wooden or metal stick of any length, but the longer the better.

The sprayer is screwed to the stick with the nozzle top so that the lever is pressed using kapron threads. They are wound tightly so that the sprayer does not move. After that we take a plastic bottle and with the help of a hot nail we melt a hole in the neck. Then we push the bolt into the molten hole and fasten it with a nut from the outside.

Before inserting the bolt, drill a through hole in it with a simple 3 mm metal drill. Put the hose on the bolt and secure it with a small collar using a screwdriver. We attach the other end of the hose to the pump and, again, fix it with a hose clamp so that everything is tight.

The bottle is filled with poison for spraying beetles or water for watering the crop. Screw the container to the top of the atomizer, which is mounted on a stick. Then, with a closed nozzle, we pump up the pump a little, after that we untwist the nozzle, and the sprayer starts to work. In this way, trees of any height and large beds can be sprayed; if necessary, the device can simply be put on the ground and pumped up from time to time.

You can even make small greenhouses out of a film in the country, you just need to drive a metal rod or a stick into the ground and fix a plastic wrap in the form of a cone on the base.

Video about a drip irrigation system using a plastic bottle:

From below, the film is fixed in a circle from an old barrel or fitted with stones.

Conclusion on the topic

Now you know how to make expensive tools for a summer cottage without significant expenses of money, time and nerves. The main thing is not what you use to improve your site, but that you should like the work and stay in the country should bring joy.

Additional articles

Homemade agricultural machinery is very popular with farmers in Russia. Such structures are much cheaper than factory ones. And the flight of creative imagination of the masters is not limited by anything. Quite interesting developments are obtained that are used in agriculture.

Home-made agricultural machinery from a walk-behind tractor

Many farmers are familiar with the advantages of a conventional walk-behind tractor used in a household. Motorcycle constructions usually run on gasoline or diesel engines. The presence of wheels allows for many tasks. As a result, part of the land work is easier for the farmer. In what designs is the walk-behind tractor used?

If a farmer knows how to use a locksmith tool, a walk-behind tractor in his hands can turn into a useful unit. It can be used for:

• plowing the land;
• snow removal;
• transportation of bulk materials;
• lawn mowing;
• planting and harvesting potatoes;
• as a plow.

All structures from a walk-behind tractor can be divided into two groups. In the first case, attachments are used, in the second the walk-behind tractor is completely reconstructed.

Major reconstruction of the walk-behind tractor

If you show persistence and imagination, you can make a unique home-made agricultural machinery. The main types of units obtained from a walk-behind tractor:

• Trailer. This device is based on the creation of an additional trailer structure. It is important to take into account the displacement of the center of gravity, which will move back. You also need to widen the front axle.
• All-terrain vehicle. The motoblock is installed on a 4-wheel frame. The finished design will resemble an ATV or a tractor. It turns out to be an excellent homemade agricultural equipment for farmers. It is maneuverable and very functional.

• Hay picker. Almost all farmers build a hay picker from a walk-behind tractor. The structure is a welded frame made of pipes that are attached to a plate and installed back. Two wheels are attached in front. It turns out something like a mini-tractor.
• Snowmobile If you install tracks on the motorcycle structure, it will make an excellent transport for movement in snowy winters.

Homemade potato digger

The potato digger is attached to the tractor. While moving, the knives cut the ground and collect the potato tubers. During the vibration, excess soil is shaken off the potatoes. Clean tubers are thrown into the aisles where they are harvested by hand. Home-made agricultural machinery presents many variations of this device. Working on this unit, the craftsman can determine the thickness of the iron structures and their strength. The basis is the frame, which is welded from the corners and the channel. A ploughshare is made of iron plates, which is attached to the elevator casing.

The elevator is given a slight tilt. Prepare rotating shafts and drum, transport and support part. The design is rather complicated, therefore, it cannot be made without special technical skills. And at a cost such a device will not be cheap.

DIY home-made agricultural equipment is a good idea for advanced craftsmen with special skills. If there are no such abilities, the farmer can choose any units in the store.

Crafts made from old objects and things that can be restored to a second life can make your home much more comfortable. Some home-made do-it-yourself home-made products can significantly save a home budget, facilitate work, or make the surrounding interior more interesting. And even if difficulties arise in the process, overcoming them will be worth it.

Homemade products for a home workshop

In almost any home, there will always be some set of tools necessary for the household. But sometimes situations arise when, to work in your own workshop or garage, you need some kind of device that cannot be purchased in the store or it is very expensive. In this case, the solution can be found by making it yourself.

Balloon Forge

This device for heating metal will become an indispensable assistant in the home workshop. The forge can be safely used to make original items using artistic forging. These will be truly unique forged items.

For a hearth, it’s best to use an empty 25 liter gas cylinder. Its ends are cut off with a grinder, and the furnace door and its rear part will be made from the cut parts. The inner part of the cylinder is covered with refractory ceramic wool, which is able to withstand temperatures above 1200 0 C. From above, it is coated with fireclay clay (lined), which can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C. After lining, fireclay slabs or refractory bricks are placed on the bottom of the hearth.

A hole is drilled from above and a small bend is inserted, which allows you to insert the nozzle of a gas-operated burner, which can create a temperature in the furnace of more than 1000 0 C - quite enough to heat the metal to a certain temperature, suitable for forging.

Dismountable garage crane

In the manufacture of such a lift, the cash costs will be much less than buying a factory model. To make it, you will have to spend only on materials, half of which may be found in the garage.

Materials required to assemble the lift:

1. Two racks - profile pipe 100x100x2350.
2. Cross rod - steel pipe of arbitrary length with a diameter of 100 mm.
3. Four supports for the bar - profile pipe 100x100x600.
4. Base and braces - corner with 100 mm shelves.
5. Two metal rollers for a cable.
6. Four wheels for movement.

For the hoisting gear, it is best to use a worm gear hand winch with a maximum load of 500 kg, which is attached to one of the crane legs.

The design does not take up much space in the workshop, easily moves on hard surfaces and is quite convenient for removing the engine from the car.

Mobile tool rack

The main highlight of this shelf is its small size., but at the same time it is possible to place a large number of tools on it, and if necessary - quickly move it to any place or neighboring room. It is very convenient to use such a rack in your workshop or during construction and repair work in large rooms, especially when you often need to carry tools.

The rack can be assembled on the basis of a folding rack made of plastic mounted on a makeshift platform with wheels (trolley). The platform is made precisely to the dimensions of the rack from a metal corner with 45x45 mm shelves or a sheet of plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm. For movement furniture metal castors are used.

Additionally, you can make and attach fasteners for building levels, extension cords and other tools that can be stored in a hanging position to the rack.

To help the hostess

There is not always a financial opportunity to buy, for example, something from new furniture in a furniture showroom or place an order for its production. But you can always get out of this situation by making the right thing with your own hands, while making it attractive and unique, using available means for this.

Cork apron

A kitchen backsplash is a wall surface located between a worktop and wall cabinets. Usually this part of the wall is tiled. But it is possible to use many other materials to cover it, for example, stick wine corks on the wall.

This exclusive decor looks pretty gorgeous.

Before the sticker, each cork is cut in length into two halves with a sharp clerical knife. It is advisable to paint the wall black, which will accentuate the seams between the corks.

Corks are glued to the wall with liquid nails in a checkerboard pattern or with a specific pattern, as it is perfectly unlikely to be able to be laid out perfectly, and the curved rows will visually look disgusting.

The corks themselves are not afraid of moisture, but quickly get dirty and poorly washed, so it is best to close them with a glass screen made of tempered glass. True, you will have to spend a little money on it and order glass in a special workshop, where they will cut it to a given size and make holes for sockets and fasteners.

Glass is fixed to the wall with anchor dowels, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store.

Although an apron decorated with wine corks can be expensive, the results achieved will be worth it.

The surface of the countertop, as well as the wall, can be decorated with corks and covered with tempered glass.

Hinged folding table

A folding table mounted on the wall allows you to save some space in the apartment. In the unfolded state, it can protrude from the wall at a distance of no more than 10 cm and does not bother anyone at all, but when unfolded it can replace a full-fledged table.

There are many options where you can use a folding table fixed to the wall. Here are just a few of the most basic ones:

Shower for a summer residence

There is probably nothing better than to refresh yourself under the stream of water on a hot summer day, especially if he went through work in the garden. Naturally, only a shower will solve this problem and relieve the fatigue that has accumulated over the day.

The shower can be installed independently without the involvement of outside help, the main thing is to choose a place for it and decide on the type of shower stall.

Three types of cabins stand out among summer showersthat you can freely build on your own:

Installing a simple shower is done in this way:

1. A shower cabin frame is made, which can be assembled from metal, a wooden bar or other improvised materials.
2. A metal or plastic water tank is installed on the roof of the assembled frame, which can have a volume of 50 to 200 liters.
3. It is advisable to paint the metal container black for better water heating. In addition, several heating electric heating elements can be installed in the container, then the shower can be taken even in cloudy weather.

The cabin can be sheathed with boards, plywood, slate or simply covered with tarpaulin or cellophane film with folding canopies.

For self-construction

The topic of construction or renovation probably worries everyone. And, of course, everyone who deals with it wants to finish it as soon as possible with minimal financial costs. Therefore, if you want to save money, you can make some materials for construction on your own. For example, it can be wall SIP panels or such a useful tool as a vibrating plate, the need for which often arises among many owners of a personal plot.

Homemade SIP panels

For their manufacture, you need to prepare an even hard platform. Having put on it a sheet of OSB 10–12 mm thick, put glue on it with a rubber spatula with teeth.

Then put sheets of foam grade 25-30 on the glue. After that, on top of the laid foam, as well as on the bottom plate of the OSB, an adhesive mass is applied, and a second sheet of OSB is laid on top.

If several panels are being made at the same time, stacked, work should be done quickly, until the glue hardens. Usually in this way no more than 4-5 panels can be prepared at a time.

After the blank for the formed slabs, you need to create pressure using a press. Since, of course, there is no hydraulic press at home, it can be replaced with a thick plywood sheet laid on the prepared SIP-plates over the entire plane and loaded for 2-3 hours, for example, with several bags of cement, sand or other cargo. You can even use a car, dropping on a plywood sheet on a pre-made flyover.

After the glue finally dries, the home-made panels will be ready, they can be stacked in a separate pile and proceed in the preparation of new panels. The manufactured panels should lie without load for another day, after which they can be used for their intended purpose.

Production of a vibrating plate

To make a homemade vibrating plate, you will need to cook:

1. The electric motor with an eccentric of the IV-98E brand, which is the main part of the vibrating plate.
2. Steel sheet, not less than 8 mm thick, 450x800 mm in size. It can be ordered at any metal warehouse.
3. Two pieces of a channel with a length of no more than 400 mm.
4. Inch tube for the handle and two rubber grommets for its attachment.
5. From the tools you will need a welding machine, a grinder and a set of wrenches.

On the narrow sides of the slab, stepping back 80-100 mm from the edges, make an incision with a grinder approximately to a depth of about 5 mm. After that, bend the edges towards the notch at an angle of approximately 25 0 and weld them. Bends are needed so that the vibrating plate does not immerse in the material it compacts and moves freely along its surface.

Then, across the plate at a certain distance, calculated for the fastening of the electric motor, two channels are welded with the shelves down. Through pre-drilled holes in the channel, using M10 bolts, an electric vibrator is attached to them.

The handle made of the pipe is attached to the vibrator through soft rubber bushings, which can be bought at the auto parts store or in the hardware store in the fastener department.

Thus, you can make a lot of useful things in the household with your own hands, spending only part of the money that would have to be paid when buying a finished product. You just need to make some effort and have certain skills.