An old cast iron bathtub to renovate. Bath restoration: which method is better, people's feedback and expert opinion. Three restoration options. Applying liquid acrylic

A cast iron bathtub is fundamental, strong and durable. Unfortunately, the service life of the enamel coating is much shorter than that of the bath itself. Replacing such monolithic equipment is associated with many problems, so often the owners decide to update the cast-iron bath. This process allows you to restore damaged enamel coating and restore the bathtub to its previous attractive appearance.

Consider the methods and technologies used for the restoration of bathtubs.

The restoration of cast iron baths by applying a new enamel coating allows you to do the work yourself, since this does not require special skills and experience. In addition to the possibility of self-restoration, the use of enamel compositions has the following advantages:

The cheapest option to renew coverage.
Suitable for steel and cast iron products.
There is no need to dismantle the drain and overflow.

The disadvantages of this method include the toxicity of the formulations: it is recommended to work in a respirator. Re-enamelling has a short service life of about 5 years, while the coating is shock-sensitive and prone to yellowing. In addition, the paint is not able to fill large cavities or chips of old enamel.

Note! Bath enamels are available in two types. The composition for professional use has a liquid consistency and is applied in 3-5 layers. Enamels for household use are thicker and are applied in two layers, they are suitable for self-application at home.

The new enamel restoration kit includes two products: a primer and an enamel with hardener. All components are supplied in separate containers, the capacity of which is designed to repair one bath.

In fact, enamel coating an old bathtub is a simple staining with a special compound. The procedure and technology for performing enamel restoration is as follows.

Training

To ensure that the paint has sufficient adhesion to the old coating, the inside of the tub is sanded with fine sandpaper. This roughens the surface and removes dirt and grease at the same time. The dust formed during the grinding process is removed from the bowl with a vacuum cleaner. In this case, it is recommended to leave the body of the vacuum cleaner with the motor behind the door so that the flow of exhaust air does not raise dust.

Advice! After sanding the bath and removing the debris, a break is made for 20-30 minutes so that the dust particles finally settle, after which the bath is washed with water and wiped dry with a napkin.

After the dust settles, the bath is rinsed with water.

Padding

The next step is to apply a primer. In front of this masking tape, the drain and overflow holes are carefully pasted over, the lining along the edge of the bath is also protected.

Then a hardener is added to the mixed primer and the composition is thoroughly mixed.

Note! At room temperature, the life of the primer mixed with the hardener is 45 minutes, during which time you need to have time to completely prime the bath.

Part of the primer is poured onto the bottom of the tub, after which it is evenly rolled out with a roller over the entire bowl. When the poured composition is developed, more is poured. The primer is applied in a thin layer so that there are no streaks and gaps. If necessary, while the primer is mobile, you can walk a second pass. Upon completion of priming, the protective masking tape is immediately removed so that it does not stick.

Enamel baths are started in 12-24 hours (depending on air temperature and manufacturer's recommendations).

Before applying the enamel coating, the following activities are carried out:

The primed surface is sanded with fine emery paper.
Grinding dust is removed.
The bath is washed with water and wiped dry with a cloth.
Drain holes and edges of the cladding are sealed with tape.

Then the enamel is mixed with a hardener. The pot life of the composition is also 45 minutes. Painting is done according to a similar scheme: the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the bath, after which it is rolled out with a roller over the entire surface in a thin layer, without gaps and sagging. After staining, the protective tape is immediately removed.

You can use the updated bathroom no earlier than indicated by the manufacturer (from 3 to 7 days). If you use the bath earlier than the specified period, this will negatively affect the quality and strength of the enamel layer. After the enamel has dried, the bath is wiped with a soft soapy cloth and then rinsed with water.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

The restoration of a cast-iron bath with liquid acrylic is sometimes called the "bulk" method, according to the technology of material application. The advantages of this option include:

Acrylic forms a thick, even and durable surface that hides any defects of the old bathtub well.
No smell during work.
Resistance of the coating to mechanical stress (within reason) and chemical cleaning agents.
The surface is smooth and pleasant to the touch, easy to clean.
Duration of operation - 10 years or more.

Among the disadvantages of the bulk bath restoration, the high cost of high-quality material, a long drying period (at least 72 hours), the need to protect the coating from dust during the drying process are noted. Despite the seeming simplicity of application, it is recommended to entrust this renewal method to professionals, since without proper experience, the coating can be damaged.

Training

Preparation stages:

Note! If the siphon is not removed during the pouring of acrylic, the overflow is wrapped with tape, and the drain hole is closed with a plastic cup with a sealant applied to the bottom. If the siphon was removed, a plastic bottle or other container cut in height is placed under the drain hole, into which acrylic will drain.

Preparation and application of acrylic

When all the preparatory work has been done, the acrylic base is mixed with a hardener. It is recommended to mix it by hand, using a wooden spatula or other convenient device. The mixture is thoroughly mixed, then a break is made for 15 minutes to activate the properties of the hardener, after which the composition is thoroughly mixed again. If you want to get a colored coating, a special color scheme is introduced into the composition.

Advice! While the prepared acrylic mixture is settling, the bath is wiped with a dry cloth to exclude even the smallest drops of water on the surface.

The fill order is as follows:

The finished mixture is collected in a small container and gradually poured along the edges of the bath. You should start from the far corner.
Slowly flowing down, the composition will evenly cover all the walls of the bath.
The thickest layer should be at the bottom of the bowl - about 5 mm. A spatula is used for even distribution over the mixture along the bottom and walls.
When the mixture is evenly distributed, use a flashlight to check that there are no gaps.
The final touch is to remove drips from the edge of the bath.

After 2 days, protective films and adhesive tape are removed, a siphon is installed (if it was dismantled). The cup covering the drain is simply crushed and carefully removed from the hole. You can use the bathroom no earlier than 72 hours after the completion of the acrylic filling.

Repair with an acrylic liner

Another way to repair an old coating is to insert an acrylic liner. This method is performed by professionals and involves the purchase of a thin acrylic insert, which is shaped to match the size of the bath. The advantages of this option are as follows:

Fast work completion: about 2 hours.
The bathroom can be used after 24 hours.
The acrylic insert is perfectly smooth and even, does not turn yellow during use, and is easy to clean.
Complete hiding of any defects, including on the sides of the bath.
With proper installation, a new bath can last up to 15 years.

The disadvantages of using an acrylic insert include the exactingness of installation and the correct selection of the insert. If the work is performed poorly, and the insert does not match the dimensions of the bath, then such a structure will not last long. In addition, the liner is very thin and is not designed for high loads and impacts.

Note! To install the insert, you will need to release all sides of the bath. If they are embedded in the cladding, it will need to be dismantled.

First of all, the sides of the bath are freed from the cladding.

After that, the old siphon is removed. If a cast-iron sewage system is installed, you will have to work with a grinder.

The siphon is removed so that the drain holes are free.

After dismantling works, all construction debris is removed, the bath is washed and wiped dry.

The next step is to prepare the acrylic insert:

The technological edge is cut off with a grinder.
Holes for drain and overflow are drilled with a crown.

Then a new siphon is assembled and installed, but the drain and overflow flanges are not screwed on, and silicone sealant is applied with a thick layer around the holes.

Immediately after that, over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe bath, mounting foam is applied in strips, which acts as an adhesive and a filler for the space between the insert and the old bath.

Then a liner is inserted, which is pressed along the sides and bottom. The drain and overflow grates are screwed on.

Note! Once the installation is complete, the tub is filled with cold water to load the liner and it adheres well.

After filling the bathtub, you can close the wall junction with a plastic corner or a border glued to silicone. You can use the bathroom in a day.

We examined various options for repairing an old cast iron bath coating. For a new bathtub to serve for a long time, you need to choose high-quality materials and take care of the renewed coating.

Advice! If you are looking for a bathroom remodeler, there is a very convenient recruiting service from. Just fill in the details of the order, the masters will respond themselves and you can choose with whom to cooperate. Each specialist in the system has a rating, reviews and examples of work, which will help with the choice. It looks like a mini tender. Placing an application is FREE and non-binding. Works in almost all cities of Russia.

If you are a master, then go to, register in the system and you can take orders.

Over time, yellow spots, a network of cracks, chips appear on the enamel coating. All this spoils the look of the bowl, becomes a problem for the hostess. Unfortunately, none of them will help here. The restoration of the bath enamel or the replacement of the plumbing fixture is required. It seems to many that the latter is the only correct decision. However, it is troublesome and associated with significant costs.

The cast iron container is very heavy. It will not work to dismantle and take this out of the house alone. The task becomes much more complicated if the plumbing is tiled or the apartment is located on one of the last floors. Subsequently, you will still need to bring in a new device, install it in place. Therefore, they try to carry out dismantling with replacement before repairs in order to immediately put the room in order.

If the repair is not planned, there is no free money for the purchase of new plumbing fixtures, its installation, you can try to restore the damaged coating. There are three effective recovery techniques. All of them are available for independent implementation, do not require significant costs, and are relatively simple to implement. Even if you have to invite specialists, all the same, the costs of replacement and restoration differ significantly.

Preparing to cover the bath

... We start with treatment with a solution or citric acid. Lubricate the area with plenty of liquid, leave for 30-40 minutes, rinse with water. If traces of rust remain, you will have to clean it mechanically.
We clean the old enamel. We clean it with sandpaper, or better with a grinder with a grinding wheel. There will be a lot of dust during the cleaning process. Therefore, we protect the respiratory organs with special means, put on overalls. At the end of sanding, remove the dust.
Deep chips, cracks are repaired for the car. Apply a layer, carefully distribute it over the defective area. After complete drying, we grind the processed fragment.
Before covering the bath with enamel, degrease it. To do this, we prepare gruel from water and carefully process the surface with it. You can take a special drug. In any case, after processing, we wash everything well with hot water and dry it.

The dried container is once again cleaned of the remaining dirt particles. The best way to do this is with a vacuum cleaner. Then remove the drain, overflow, if any. Sections of the edge and wall joint are sealed with masking tape to protect the finish.

3 ways to restore enamel on a cast iron bath

Each of them gives a good result, provided that the work technology is not violated. Let's take a look at all three options.

Enamelling

With your own hands, it is easiest to perform the so-called enameling, in other words, the surface with a special composition. Most often it is enamel based, but there may be another remedy. The application method may vary depending on the composition. sprayed, the emulsion is spread with a roller or brush. The advantages of the technique are the ease of application, the low price of the necessary materials.

Of the shortcomings, you need to know about the fragility of the updated coating. It will last no more than five years. Poor quality compounds turn yellow after a while. Careful surface preparation is required before enameling. The liquid will not cover chips or other imperfections. It will take a week for the preparation to completely dry. All this time, you cannot use the plumbing. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

We prime the base with a suitable one, let it dry. Sometimes you need to warm up the bowl. In this case, fill it with hot water, wait 15-20 minutes, drain the liquid. Wipe the walls dry with a lint-free rag, only then remove the drain and overflow.
We substitute small containers under the holes of the plumbing fixture so as not to stain the floor. We are preparing a coloring preparation. Mix the two-component product thoroughly.
Apply the first layer. We start with the sides and gradually move on to the bottom of the container. We carefully distribute the paint, watch the layer thickness. It shouldn't be too big, especially at the bottom where paint builds up. If this happens, we correct this defect with a brush.
Apply two more layers in the same way. We wait 15 minutes, after which we check if there are sags or streaks. We correct the shortcomings if necessary.

It remains to wait for the complete hardening of the enamel layers. Depending on the type of paint, this takes about five days or more. The dried surface must be polished. This is done with a drop of polishing paste on a soft cloth.

Liquid acrylic treatment

A good result is obtained by applying acrylic paste. After drying, it forms a durable coating that will last up to 10 years, subject to the rules of operation. does not turn yellow over time, but stains may appear on it. This happens when dyes, aggressive chemicals get in. There are traces of abrasive detergents, strong impacts with sharp objects. The restored surface must be protected from this.

There is no acrylic preparation, so you can work without a respirator. It dries no longer than 36 hours. During this time, the bathroom must be closed so that dust or debris does not get into the wet solution. Another plus of the material is the absence of drips, bubbles during application. The result is a perfectly smooth surface.

The disadvantage of the method is the need to acquire skills at work. If they are not there, it is better to first try your hand at something suitable. Without experience, there is a great risk of hopelessly ruining a plumbing fixture.

Stages of restoration

Preparing a two-component solution for work. Add the solvent in small portions to the bucket with the preparation. Mix the liquid thoroughly each time. The result should be a homogeneous paste. If this is not the case, the peeling process will quickly begin after application, which will ruin the new coating.
If planned, add color to it. Its amount will determine the saturation of the future color. When tinting the preparation, it should be taken into account that after drying it will become slightly lighter. After mixing and tinting, the solution is left for 10-15 minutes, mixed again.
We close the drain hole of the bath from above with a disposable glass, put a bucket under it for the dripping pasta. We collect a small amount of liquid acrylic in a bucket. Starting from the edge, carefully pour it onto the side. We move evenly along the entire bowl until we reach the place where we started.
After the liquid is glass approximately to the middle of the side, we repeat our actions. Pour the pasta from the middle of the side.
We remove the plastic cup. The acrylic that has accumulated at the bottom is carefully distributed with a spatula, directing the excess into the drain hole. We do this carefully, but quickly, without letting the mass grab.

It remains to wait for the acrylic paste to harden. Under normal conditions, this takes about a day, but it may take more. The exact time is specified on the packaging of the product.

Insert insert

Sometimes it is impossible to restore the enamel in the bathroom or you don’t want to mess with the paint, then the installation of an acrylic insert would be a good solution. To do this, you need to purchase a plastic bowl that will exactly repeat the shape and dimensions of the old one. It is placed inside a cast-iron container, fixed with glue. The advantages of the method are obvious. Complex preparatory work is not always required, you can use the bathroom the next day.

The result is guaranteed to be good, which is not always the case when painting. The insert can be not only white, but any other color. He serves for a long time, at least 15 years. Provided that the operating requirements are met. There will be one difficulty in execution: to purchase an insert of a suitable size. This is not always possible, especially for non-standard bowls.

Step-by-step installation process

We release the edges of the bowl along its entire perimeter. If necessary, dismantle the adjacent cladding or panels.
We examine the surface of the plumbing. If the enamel is smooth, you will need to sand it to improve the adhesion of the adhesive. To do this, we fix the sandpaper on a convenient holder, evenly clean the coating. After that, we wash off the dust, dismantle the drain and overflow.
We adjust the liner. Rub the edges of the drain and overflow holes with a stylus. We put the acrylic element in the bowl, press it lightly. The lead mark will mark the locations of the holes. We draw a line along the side, if you need to remove part of the acrylic sheet. Cut off the excess around the perimeter with an electric jigsaw. We cut holes with a drill with a crown.
We apply. We generously process the edges of the overflow and drain with a sealant. We do the same with the edges of the sides along the entire perimeter. Fill the remaining space with special foam. We apply it evenly, without empty areas.
We put the insert in place, press it with effort. At the edges we fix it with clamps with plates placed under them so as not to damage the acrylic. We install the drain, we collect water in the bowl. It should not reach 20-30 mm before overflow. The liquid will press down on the liner, which will ensure normal polymerization of the foam, uniform fixation of the part. After a day, the water is drained. You can see the process in more detail on the video on the Internet.

We have analyzed three effective methods of how to restore enamel coating on a bathtub at home. The most short-lived result will be obtained by self-enameling, but this is also the easiest way to restore. When the renewed enamel becomes unusable, it can be painted again. It's much cheaper and easier.

Prepared by: Inna Yasinovskaya

10/16/2017 1 9,190 views

Many people are interested in how enamel is restored on a cast-iron bath with their own hands, because after 5-10 years, the initially snow-white container becomes not the same as when it was purchased. Almost everyone, after a long time of operation, notice the appearance of rusty smudges, non-washable stains, yellowness and cracking enamel. But is it possible to return to its previous attractive appearance and make the bath smooth again on its own? It will not be possible to correct defects with household chemicals, so you should resort to the procedure for restoring or replacing the protective surface. Actions are performed at home and without special financial costs.

Properties of cast iron as a material for the bathroom

Cast iron baths are popular among consumers today, as they combine a considerable number of useful qualities and excellent characteristics, and the price is appropriate. However, they also need proper care, but in most cases, enamel restoration will be the only way to return a presentable look.

The main features of cast iron baths

The indisputable advantage is that the containers are able to withstand a rather long service life. For more than 50 years, the original strength and quality of the product has been maintained. The enamel coating lends itself to frequent exposure to external negative factors, therefore deteriorates much earlier. It is possible to avoid this with the help of timely repair.
The minimum noise level will definitely be a virtue. Due to the fact that the walls of the product reach 8 mm in width, sound is well insulated, and when the container is filled with water, no discomfort is created for the user.
It is easy to restore the enamel of the bathtub on your own, without the help of specialists and the purchase of expensive products or repair tools. Everyone will be able to restore the original look with their own hands, using different techniques, such as the enameling method, the injection of acrylic or the installation of an acrylic liner.
Cast iron has a minimum level of thermal conductivity, and due to this, the water with which the enamelled container is filled remains warm for a long time.

Causes of damage to enamel on a cast iron bath

Despite the fact that the enameled surface is considered the most durable and reliable for the consumer, over the years it loses its properties due to active use. Even with the observance of the necessary operating recommendations from the manufacturer, it is difficult to leave the appearance of the container without defects.

Enameling the bath will be the best option for the complete restoration of the surface cast-iron coating, and the main advantage of the procedure is that all actions can be done by yourself.

So what could be the reasons for the appearance of various irregularities and defects?

due to the fact that the container is in daily contact with water, which contains a large amount of iron, a disgusting yellowness appears. This interaction is bad for the appearance of the coating .;
the frequent use of all kinds of chemicals and brushes made of hard fibers leads to the fact that the surface of the bath acquires abrasions that look unattractive and create discomfort for the user;
even accidental drops of small objects into the container lead to some damage to the enamel, as a result of which the material gradually exfoliates from the cast iron;
due to frequent temperature changes and mechanical loads, cracks appear.

Features of the restoration of a cast iron bath

Most people think about the question of restoring a bath under the following most common circumstances:

Financial opportunities. The bathtub has been holding firmly for many years, however, it has lost its original snow-white appearance, and buying new plumbing is currently not affordable.
Removable or temporary residence. Naturally, under circumstances when a person lives in a rented apartment for a short period of time, there is no point in spending money on purchasing a bath.
Complex layout of the room. It also happens that the dismantling of old plumbing is simply not possible due to the special plan of the bathroom. Of course, the capacity can be crushed, but it is more profitable to carry out repair work.

How to properly prepare a bath for enamel restoration?

Before restoration, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface, since without preliminary preparation the desired result is impossible to achieve.

Preparatory stages:

removal of rust. It is better to perform actions with the help of gentle solutions of oxalic or acetic acid. One of the liquids should be applied to the surface, and then kept for half an hour. Make sure that there is no rust left after thorough rinsing, otherwise mechanical cleaning will have to be carried out;
grinding. Once the rust has been successfully removed, the surface must be sanded. This is done using a drill, grinder or sandpaper;
correction of cracks and deep chips. Damaged areas are rubbed with putty for cars, after which they are additionally sanded;
degreasing. For this process, baking soda or special substances are used, which must be washed off with high temperature water after all actions.

Now you should wait until the bath is completely dry, after which:

remove the drain and overflow, then place a container under the drain where the paint will ooze;
remove the remaining dust and sand with a vacuum cleaner;
glue the surface of the bathtub with tape;
apply a primer.

Recovery process

There are several effective home bath restoration methods. But it is worth remembering that the restoration itself can be done with one of the methods only after the repair is completed, in order to maintain the updated layer. Each technique will require a certain repair kit and patience.

Enamelling

This method is the most affordable and easy to use. Either classic epoxy enamel or more expensive but effective paint is used for painting.

How the process works:

The substance is applied exclusively with a brush made of natural fibers or with a terry roller.
Spread the paint evenly and thinly from the sides to the deepest part.
When the process reaches the deepest part, care should be taken that the layer is not too thick. In the case when the paint is not quite evenly laid down, the substance should be carefully smeared.
The epoxy enamel is applied in three layers. After 15 minutes, be sure to check for smudges and other irregularities.
Full drying of the bath usually occurs after a few days, but it is recommended to wait five days.
When the container is dry, polish the surface with a flannel rag with one drop of polishing paste.

This type of restoration requires low costs and efforts for dismantling. But there are also certain disadvantages:

the renewed enamel will turn yellow again after a while;
the paint will not last more than 5 years;
you can use the bath after repair only after a week;
the enamel will not hide the irregularities that were in the factory coating.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

To avoid the reappearance of cracks and chips on the restored surface, they must be putty immediately before priming.
After opening the bucket with acrylic liquid, the component is thoroughly mixed with a drill with a special nozzle.
The drain is blocked by a disposable cup, and the bucket is placed on the bottom of the bath.
The working mixture is poured into an oversized bowl.
Next, acrylic is poured on the surface, starting with the sides. Using a spatula, the liquid is evenly distributed.
After the mixture has drained to the bottom, the acrylic should be lifted with a spatula to the unfilled areas.
When the surface is full, the drain opens. The rest of the acrylic liquid will drain into the previously substituted bucket.
It will take less than a day to dry the bath.

This technology is quite complex, it requires experience and a certain set of skills from a person.

Restoration with acrylic insert

The restoration of an aged bath with an acrylic insert takes place without removing the old enamel and is not a complicated process. A plastic bowl is glued into the inside, which repeats the shape of the old one. The main feature is also the fact that there is no need to sand and clean the bath.

This is an additional condition for you to feel more comfortable when contacting us. If something does not suit you during or after the restoration of the bathtub, just call our dispatch office on the round-the-clock phone, and i will return all the money to you to the last penny! By the way, in 2018 we received only 9 requests for a refund (out of 38,990 requests!).

🔧 After the warranty, you will receive a LIFETIME SERVICE

No need to worry about what will happen to your bathroom after the warranty. I give every customer a lifetime service in Lenremont. This means that if this bath needs restoration again after the warranty period, restoration of the bath will cost 2 times less! So you get 25% discount for post-warranty repairs.

✅ 1 year warranty (subject to standards) for bathroom restoration

Yes! I am so confident in the skill of my masters that I boldly give you 1 year warranty (subject to compliance) for the restoration of the bath. This is the largest guarantee in all of Russia.

And one more surprise - you will receive 4 months warranty for all partssince Lenremont orders parts from a direct supplier.

This warranty means that, if suddenly Your bathtub will need restoration again, the master will come free of charge and carry out the restoration of the bath. Even if the master who performed the restoration of your bath gets sick or no longer works with us, you do not need to worry that you will be left without warranty service: we have more than 100 bath restorers on our staff. We take full responsibility for ensuring that you, our dear client, are satisfied.

Over time, the bathtub loses its attractive appearance. Smudges and traces of rust appear, gloss disappears, it becomes rough to the touch. Everything suggests that it’s time to change the old bath. And this is not a small expense. In addition, when replacing the bath, you can’t do without repairing the entire bathroom, and small expenses will turn into medium, or even large ones. But there is an alternative - do-it-yourself bathroom restoration. A large number of materials are presented on the market, with which you can independently update your bath with the proper quality.

Bath restoration methods

There are now three methods for restoring old bathtubs:

1. Restoration of the enameled surface of the bath.

2. Restoration with liquid acrylic.

3. Restoration by inserting an insert.

Method 1: ordinary enamel

Cast iron and steel enameled bathtubs are the most common types of bathtubs in our apartments. They are produced according to GOST 18297-96, which has been operating since 1997. According to this GOST, the baths are guaranteed for 2 years. But as practice shows, the enamel on them lasts no more than 10 years of use.

Enamel on the bath in the factory is applied quite simply. First, the outer surface is red-hot, then enamel powder is sieved onto the inner surface and kept for some time to sinter the powder with the metal. Again heat the outer surface until the powder melts. The result is a smooth, glossy enamel finish. It is clear that at home this method of restoration of a cast-iron bathtub, as well as a steel one, is not suitable.

Why does enamel usually wear out?

The wear of the enamelled surface is caused by two factors:

Use of cleaning agents containing abrasive powders or substances with chlorine impurities.
The use of chemicals when cleaning water supply networks.

As a result of many years of exposure to these factors, the enameled surface of the bath becomes thinner, becomes rough and begins to rust.

Restoration of the enamelled surface

Do-it-yourself enamel restoration is a fairly simple process. It consists of two stages: surface preparation and applying a new layer of enamel.

What do you need for work?

You will need the following tools and materials:

electric drill with a nozzle in the form of a grinding wheel;
abrasive powder;
sandpaper;
rust converter (for example, "Tsinkar");
degreaser (for example, "Nefras");
lint-free napkin;
natural bristle brushes or spray;
respirator and gloves;
enamel, preferably two-component (enamel plus hardener).

Preliminary stage: surface preparation

A very important stage. The more thoroughly the bath surface is cleaned, the better the new enamel layer will be.

sprinkle old enamel with abrasive powder and clean it off with sandpaper or a grinding wheel mounted on an electric drill;
treat the areas affected by corrosion with a rust converter, let it stand for half an hour, then sand it with sandpaper;
wash off enamel and crumbs with water;
thoroughly treat the bath with a degreaser with a lint-free cloth;
fill the bath with hot water and let it warm up for 10 minutes;
drain and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth; make sure that there are no fluff or other foreign elements on the surface.

The main stage: applying the enamel

according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix enamel and hardener in a certain proportion and mix thoroughly;
apply the first layer of enamel with a brush or spray;
maintain a certain period of time according to the instruction;
apply a second layer of enamel.

With this, the process of restoration of an enameled bath with your own hands ends. It is advisable to withstand at least a week before using the bath. It takes so long for the complete enamel polymerization.

The service life of the new enamel will be about 6-8 years.

Method 2: restoration of the bath with liquid acrylic

This method of bath restoration has appeared relatively recently, thanks to the appearance of a special material - glass.

How do we restore?

Stacril is a two-component acrylic material designed specifically for bath restoration. It is directly acrylic itself and a separately supplied hardener. When acrylic and hardener are combined, the polymerization process begins, and when applied to the surface, the composition turns into a high-quality acrylic film with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm.

The advantages of glass

Stacril has three remarkable properties that help it quickly and effectively restore the bathtub:

1. Viscosity

The optimally selected viscosity coefficient of the glass helps to effortlessly make an acrylic coating 4 mm thick on the walls of the bath and 6 mm on its bottom.

2. Fluidity

The flowing effect allows the glass to envelop the surface of the bathtub on its own and lay down evenly.

3. Delayed polymerization

Thanks to this quality, you can calmly and relatively comfortably carry out work on the restoration of the bath, without fear that the acrylic will harden too quickly.

After polymerization, the acrylic surface has mechanical and impact strength far exceeding the acrylic liner or enamel layer.

Performance technology

The technology of restoration of baths with liquid acrylic is even simpler than the enameling process and consists in the following:

1: Surface preparation

This stage does not differ from the variant of restoration of the enamel surface. Repeat the same steps. Then disconnect the siphon and place a container under the bath drain where excess acrylic will drain.

2: Applying liquid acrylic

we prepare the acrylic mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions;
slowly pour the finished mixture onto the upper edge of the bath, as soon as the stream reaches the middle, we begin to smoothly move the stream of stacril around the perimeter of the bath;
when the circle closes, repeat the procedure, starting from the middle.

The pouring restoration process must take place continuously, for this you need to take a glass container of a suitable size. It is not worth saving - it is better to pour out a little more acrylic than it will lack, the excess will go into the container under the drain hole.

Acrylic polymerizes, depending on the type, from one to four days. Choose glass with a long drying time, in this case, the acrylic surface will be better.

The refurbished bath will have a service life of about 20 years.

Method 3: restore the bath using the liner

The easiest, but also the most expensive way of restoration is the insertion of an insert. In addition, it is impossible to completely restore the bath with your own hands with this method, since the liner is manufactured in the factory.

There is an option to order the manufacture of a liner for a specific bath at the enterprise, and install it yourself.

The insert installation technology is as follows:

thoroughly clean and degrease the surface of the bath;
we insert the manufactured insert into the bath;
check the correct alignment of the drain holes;
cut the liner along the line of wall tiles;
apply a special glue to the inner surface of the bath and the outer side of the liner and dock them;
the joints are additionally sealed with silicone.

After installing the liner, pour cold water into the bath and stand for 24 hours. The restored bath is then ready for use.

The insert will last you up to 10 years.

How much will it cost to restore a bathtub?

In conclusion, we will conduct a comparative analysis of the cost of restoration of the bath, based on the methods discussed above.

Enamel bath

The cost of high-quality enamel "Reaflex 50" manufactured by the Finnish company "Tikkurila" is 550 rubles per 1 kg. A Russian Svetlana restoration kit costs 750 rubles. As a result, you will have to pay 1300 rubles.

Bulk restoration

If you buy a set for the restoration of a bath with liquid acrylic, for example Plastall, it will cost about 2,000 rubles. By the way, it has everything you need for independent work, even a CD with a video lesson.

Acrylic liner

The cost of the liner itself and polymer glue ranges from 2800 to 3000 rubles.

The best option is the method of bulk restoration, in which you get a beautiful and durable coating for little money. Moreover, any of these methods are several times cheaper than buying and installing a new bath.