Yellow and fall of the leaves of oleander. Oleander why yellow leaves white on the tops of oleander

Perhaps, the air in the room in the middle of the heating season was dry then the oleandra will be useful to regular spraying of water temperature: they will not dry the tips of its leaves. During active vegetation, the oleander watered very plentiful; In the period of rest watering limit. Do not water oleander with cold water - he does not like it. Do not allow the earthen kits, including in winter.

It depends on where they dry ... if you dry up (I mean the crown of oleander), then it is not enough to water it. If at the bottom, too much water ...

In winter, it is desirable to spray the plant with water room temperature. With dry air they can dry the tips of the leaves.

And the leaves resets due to lack of light!

continued

For oleander, you need a large room or greenhouse. Flowers in summer fragrant flowers collected in the brush over narrow, like willow, leaves. Wood and juice juice. For the Oleandrom, when it turns into a large bush, it is not easy to care - in the winter pot or a tube need to be transferred to the cool room, and in the summer it is necessary to rest in the fresh air in the garden. In the fall, the swords are cut off.

Secrets of Success

Temperature: moderate, in winter at least 8 ° C. Lighting: bright sunlight. Watering: Abundant from spring to autumn, mild in winter. Water with soft water. Air humidity: does not require spraying. Transplant: as necessary. Reproduction: stem cuttings in spring or summer.

N. Oleander when buying may look a compact bush, but have a look that it creates and can reach 2 m in height. In the culture presents forms with white, pink, red and yellow painting flowers.

With a lack of light in the summer, it does not bloom.

With a lack of light in the autumn-winter period, the plant resets the leaves.

It is damaged by a specific disease - oleandral cancer.

The scarce flowering of old oleander bushes is due to lack of nutrition and light, weak irrigation and lack of trimming.

For normal development and flowering, the olendra is needed very bright, solar place with a constant influx of fresh air.

Good grows on southern windows. When growing on the windows of the northern orientation, leaves can be reset from lack of lighting, so you can create additional lighting of daylight lamps.

In the summer, you can endure on an open air (balcony, veranda or garden) and keep on a sunny, well-ventilated place, but precipitation should be protected. In the garden, the oleander will be better posted at the southern wall. If you do not have the ability to place the plants in the open air during the summer period, then the room should be regularly ventilated.

In winter, bright lighting is also necessary. You can create additional lighting, using for this daylight lamp, placing them over the plant at a distance of 60-70 cm, for at least 8 hours a day. In the autumn-winter period, it is also necessary to ventilate the room, but drafts should be avoided.

With a lack of illumination, the oleander resets the foliage. If you purchased oleander and it was contained at low light, then to more light it should be accepted gradually.

In the spring-summer period (especially during flowering), the plant prefers a sufficiently high air temperature (20-27 ° C) with a constant influx of fresh air. In the fall, the temperature smoothly down to 18-15 ° C. In winter, the oleander is kept in cool well-lit places at a temperature of 8-15 ° C, from mid-March it is preferably not lower than 15 ° C. At higher temperatures, mandatory air ventilation is required.

Oleander from spring to autumn watered abundantly, immediately after the upper layer of the substrate will dry. In hot and sunny days during watering, water can be left in the pallet. Also in hot time, the pots put in pallets with water and the water will always be in them. But if cloudy and cool water from the pallet is poured. Watering produce soft well-well-standing and warm water (for two or three degrees, the warmer of temperature in the room is standing).

In the autumn-winter period, the plant is watered moderately, depending on the temperature of the content, following the earth, and did not start the roots. Water after two or three days, after the top layer gets up. Oleander is sensitive to the drying of the earth coma.

In spraying in the spring-summer period, the plant does not need. On hot days, it is best for oleander if a pot with a plant you put in the pallet with water. In winter, it is still desirable to spray the plant with water room temperature. With dry air they can dry the tips of the leaves.

The plant reacts well to feeding in the spring-summer period with liquid organic and mineral fertilizers (alternating) weekly or every time in two weeks. Fucking should be carried out in cloudy, non-jarous days and after half an hour after watering the plant.

The pomp of the flowering of oleander depends on its trimming. Pruning is made after flowering, shortening the branches half or even more, because the flowers are formed at the ends of annual shoots that are well growing after short trimming. Cropped branches can be used on cuttings that are well rooted.

In blooming copies of vegetative shoots that appear under flower kidneys should be pulled out, otherwise they will interfere with them to develop.

The reason that it does not bloom is mainly in the absence of trimming or in a weak trim, as well as in insufficient illumination, disadvantage of nutrition and moisture.

Oleander (lat. Nerium) - evergreen Beautiful shrub from the Cutric family.

Motherland: Area Areas.

Flower: red, pink, white. The flowering period is summer, autumn.

Basic requirements for care

The soil

The optimal acidity of the soil mixture of pH 5.5-7.8. The composition of the soil mixture: 1 part of the turf of the land + 1 part of coarse sand or perlite + 1 part of the peat or leaf humus + 10g lime for every 10 liters. Before use, the mixture must be sterilized.

Pest

Tli, milders, shrews, panels, spider ticks. For methods and ways to combat pests, see the "Pest" section. The pests suck the juice from the leaves, as a result of which they die. Also, these pests, their activities contribute to the infection of oleander by secondary infections - fungal diseases.

Photo.Shield on oleandra. The shield is striking predominantly green (top) and semi-respected shoots.

Photo.The TLL on Oleandra amazes first of all the growth point (leaves). With long-term infection, the plant is amazed everywhere.

Diseases

Numerous types of fungi cause a disease - letters of leaves. The leaves are covered with stains, discolored, then die and fall. Ways to prevent and methods of combating the disease, see "Diseases".

Sheet burn is a disease of bacterial origin. No treatment, the plant dies for two years. Since the infection of bacterium paralyzes water-conducting plant cells. The disease is transmitted through sucking pests. For a moderate zone, the disease is not typical. Symptoms of the disease are similar to the symptoms when the plant is experiencing a moisture deficit (watering) - the yellowing of the leaves, the color of the color of the tips of the leaves (raging), focusing and filling the branches, lack of increment. The disease is distributed in warm season.

Temperature.The optimal temperature of the winter content is 10-12 0 C. The temperature below zero is unacceptable.

Lighting

Optimal lighting - bright scattered light. After the end of frosts - the plant is useful to take out to the street. To adapt to the direct sunlight: on the first day, hold 45 minutes in the sun, add half an hour in each subsequent day. On the fourth day, the plant is ready for lighting with sunlight without restrictions.

Watering

Further care:

• during the month, lighting is a bright scattered light. Then we carry out adaptation to direct sunlight (see above).

• finger start from the second month. The first two months concentration of fertilizer is 50% of the recommended.

• since the third month, care as an adult plant.

If the ambient temperature rises to 30 0 s and above, then rooting the cuttings in water is not worth it, the main percentage of cuttings will die. In this case, the cuttings are rooted in the soil substrate.

We prepare the soil mixture: 1 part of the peat + 1 part of the perlite, sterilize it. As a container, we use one-time cups (200ml) with drainage holes. Fallulate the substrate, water water. Stinks process the root formation stimulator. Wooden chopstick in the substrate recess 3 cm. Then we insert the cuttings, the soil around the cutter by crimp your fingers. To root the cuttings in the substrate, it is necessary close to 100% air humidity, so containers with cuttings put in greenhouse. The conditions for rooting are the same as in water. The substrate should be constantly wet, the cuttings in the greenhouse are performed daily.

Evergreen perennial plant with fragrant bright colors and elongated leathery leaves. In the natural environment grows in the tropical zones of Portugal, in Morocco and China.

Description and features

Evergreen tall shrub of the Cutrov family. Leaflets up to 15 cm long, leathery, with high-alkaline veins, are similar to you. Flowers very beautiful. Buds up to 6 cm, collected in lush inflorescences. Coloring more often pink or white. There are varieties with red, yellow and two-color flowers. Flowers from the beginning of summer until the middle of the autumn. Among modern hybrid varieties there are varieties with beautiful terry flowers. Sometimes oleander is called a pink laure. Grows rather large.

Oleander poisonous. Prothesing and transplant operations are recommended in gloves. After contact with the flower, be sure to wash your hands with soap. It is better to put in place in an inaccessible for children and domestic animals.

Varieties

All types of oleander known in the room culture are very decorative. They are distinguished by a touch of flowers, dimensions, color of the leaves.

• Oleander ordinary. High variety. In favorable natural conditions, it can reach 4 m. The leaves are sitting on short stiffs, have a linear elongated shape. The outdoor side of the sheet is green, inner light. Inflorescences Large, lush flowers of pink or reddish shade. The aroma is pleasant, flowering continues all summer and the beginning of autumn.
• Oleander white. Very simple in growing plant. Often used for gardening offices. Without trimming grows up to two meters. Blossom starts in summer, ending in late autumn.
• Oleander terry pink. Forms a neat small bush with gentle terry flowers of pink tone.
• Oleander yellow. Differs in bright yellow flowers resembling bells. Costfalls are creeps, color delicate peach. Flowers all summer and half of autumn. An interesting feature - several plants grow out of one seed.

Care for Oleandrom in a pot after purchase is directed to the fast adaptation of the plant in the new conditions. The oleander is placed on quarantine, watered moderately, do not feed. The place is chosen warm, bright, but protected from direct sunlight.

Oleander Care: Basic Rules

All olenders are relatively unpretentious. They grow rapidly, with good content conditions willingly bloom. When cultivating oleander, it is recommended to adhere to a number of rules.

• Temperature . In the summer they keep at a regular room temperature from 20 to 25 ° C. In winter, it is desirable to lower the temperature to 10-15 ° C. If it is not possible to create suitable conditions, the room is often ventilated.
• Lighting. Need bright lighting. The sun is not afraid - it can be placed on the southern windowsill or transfer to the balcony in the summer. The lack of light is compensated for artificial illumination in winter.
• Watering Watering mode depends on the time of year, content conditions. In the summer, when growing in a sunny place, the pallet always remains a small amount of water. The moisture oleander loves, watered it immediately after grazing the surface of the soil. In winter, the frequency and intensity of irrigation reduce, follow the level of soil moisture - it should not be too raw.
• Humidity. Gratefully reacts to the systematic spraying. In the heating period and hot summer days spray daily. Periodically bathe under the warm shower.
• Podrel. Use complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Sometimes you can feed the organic-cow, with a calm infusion. Intervals between feeding - two weeks. To eliminate the burn, fertilizer roots are brought only after watering.
• The soil . The soil is prepared from an equal amount of turf, large sand, humus, leaf land, peat.
• Transplant. Young specimens transplant annually in a pot of larger diameter. Adult bushes just transplanted every two or three years. The root system is sensitive, so it is trying not to disturb - transplanted by the transshipment method.

For stable flowering, it is necessary to trim and create a oleander. Crop it immediately after wading colors. The procedure not only gives a neat shape of the bustle, but also stimulates the subsequent flowering. Flower kidneys are laid on young shoots who have grown to wintering. Crop can be very much - oleander easily transfers this procedure.

Why not blooms

If the oleander does not bloom, it means that serious errors in care are made. There may be several reasons.

• Warm wintering. For the active laying of floral kidney, the oleandra needs coolness and good lighting. In the warm flower continues to grow, but does not lay the flower kidneys.
• Big pot. In too spacious pots, the root system begins to actively develop. The plant is gaining green mass, flowering is braked.
• Lack of moisture. Systematic drying of the earth coma, irregular watering negatively affect flowering.
• Disadvantage. Due to rapid growth with rare feeding, nutrient deficit arises.
• No trimming. Flower kidneys are laid only on the tops of young shoots. Without trimming, flowering stops or is very scarce.

Judging by the reviews, stimulate bloom is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to eliminate the specified errors in care and conduct trimming. All weak twigs are completely cut, strong shoots shorten by a third. Immediately after trimming, they transplanted into nutritious, well-drained soil. The trimming is carried out in early spring before starting active growth or in the fall before the onset of rest period.

Methods of breeding

The cultivation of oleander at home is possible from seeds and cuttings. More often, the oleander is breeding in a vegetative way. Cultivation of seeds is a long and time-consuming process.

Seeds

Description. Seeds are very quickly losing germination. The collected seeds are not recommended - it is better to plant them immediately.

Procedure

1. Pre-seeds are soaked in water with the addition of mangarteau to about half an hour. A couple of hours are kept in water without additives.
2. Seeds are sown in a lightweight substrate with coal, sand or vermiculite. Not needed to close.
3. The planting capacity from above is covered with polyethylene or glass, put it in a warm, light place. Temperature should not fall below 18 ° C.
4. The appearance of the first shoots are waiting after 7-10 days.
5. The film from the tank is removed, the seedlings continue to hold in a warm, bright place.
6. Following the humidity of the soil - even its short-term drying is not allowed.
7. At the stage of four real leaves, the Oleander seedlings can be searched in separate containers.

Cherenca

Description. It is much easier to multiply oleander cuttings. Cut them in spring or autumn.

Procedure

1. Cut up the tops of shoots up to 10 cm long.
2. Slices are sprinkled with coal powder, cuttings leave for an hour to dry.
3. Mix large sand as a substrate and strongly crushed coal. Can be rooted in perlite.
4. The cuttings are kept in conditions of moderate humidity, about 20 ° C, in light.
5. Cuttings produce roots in about a month, sometimes a little earlier.
6. You can put a cutter into water with the addition of activated carbon. To accelerate the formation of roots, the lower part of the cutting is treated with a heteroacexin or other stimulant of root formation.

Air chains

Description. It is less likely to reproduce with gag. To obtain air chains, choose healthy, strong shoots.

Procedure

1. Cut the cortex ring, the location of the cut is treated with a stimulator of the root formation, wet with wet sphagnum and polyethylene.
2. Safagnum is periodically moisturized, do not allow its complete drying.
3. After the appearance of the roots, the escape is cut and planted in a small pot with light nutritional soil.
4. The first time the gods require attentive care with maintaining stable humidity of the soil. With the slightest drying of the soil, the weak roots may die.

How to care for oleandrom in the summer? In the heat of the flower, try to spray more often in the mornings and evenings. If the plant stands on the open sun in the afield of moisture to the leaves better avoid. Throughout the period of flowering, faded inflorescences and individual flowers are systematically removed.

Pest

In adverse conditions of the content of oleander, pests attack. Most problems are delivered to the shields, a red cobweb tick and a torment cherry. Signs of defeat by these pests and ways to combat them are described in the table.

Table - Pest of Oleander

Other cultivation problems

Diseases are rare. More often loss of decorativeness, the weakening of the plant is associated with pests or care errors. The main problems that can be encountered during the cultivation of oleander are collected in the table.

Table - Problems when growing oleander

Because of too frequent irrigations, the root system sometimes boots. Treatment in this case is better to start as early as possible. It consists in removing damaged roots, transplantation, processing system fungicides. In the case of severe damage, the roots are better to immediately cut the cuttings to replace the plant.

Since it is not very difficult to care for the oleandrom, it is quite realistic to create conditions favorable in the apartment for its growth. A long period of flowering, high decorative make it with a welcome flower in a collection of any flower.

For what reasons maybe sicknes of oleander? It is a shortage of sunlight, no fresh air inflow, soil breaking, high temperature in winter time. In adverse conditions, dry out the leaves of oleander. In addition, the oleandra leaf can hit the web tick. The latter disease is typical for the flower in conditions of low air humidity, a ridicated atmosphere of the room. So, the oleander, his diseases and pests, the causes of the occurrence, photos and recommendations of treatment specialists.

Common diseases of oleander at home: a web tick, a shrew, cherry.

Causes of the pawless tick: Lack of light and high flower content (above +15 degrees) in winter, in summer low air humidity, lack of light. Signs of sickness of oleander: White, mild ripping predominantly on the back of the sheet. In most cases, flower leaves dry. Treatment: Enhance air humidity. Daily spraying are required, much attention is paid to the reverse side of the oleander leaves. If the web tick struck the flower in winter, then you can arrange a cold shower, if in summer - the temperature of the water for spraying increases to +40 degrees. Mandatory condition - bright lighting. If the web tick is massively struck the flower, use preparations of phytodeterm, vertimer. If the air temperature is at the level of +20 degrees, plant treatment is carried out 3 times with an interval of 10 days. If the room temperature is kept at the level of +30 degrees, then the flower is also treated 3 times, but with an interval of 3-4 days.

In some cases, with a strong damage to the tick, the oleander leaf can be covered with blessed spots. Such leaves are deprived of chlorophyll. Over time, they fall out.

Oleander leaves are covered with small specks. First, they are bright, then darken. It is easily removed from the sheet. Disease: TRIPS. The cause of the occurrence: abundant watering, high temperature of the content of oleander. Treatment: Watering and spraying Aktar. For spraying, a solution of 4 g of a preparation is 5 liters of water, for watering: 1 g of the drug on 10 liters of water. Treatment to carry out at least 4 times with a periodicity of 4 days.

How to save oleander? He oped the leaves in the winter. In most cases, the oleander falls the leaves in the winter due to the lack of sunlight. Experts are recommended to provide a flower with additional illumination with a fluorescent lamp up to 8-9 hours every day. Why leave the leaves from Oleander. In winter, this is a high temperature of the adult plant (over +15 degrees). Since oleander is a subtropical plant, it needs a winter holiday. If there is no sharp need for a young plant in vacation, then the flower, the age of which is more than 3-4 years old, in this very much. The high temperature of the content in the winter time stimulates the growth of the flower, which depletes it. As a result, the oleander leaves dry. Ways to eliminate the problem: reduce the temperature of the content, ensure the flower due to the level of illumination (8-9 hours light day).

Why fall leaves from oleander? Cause: Lack of light. Oleander is a light-affilome plant. In home cultivation, very often suffers from lack of light. A favorable place for him are windows on the south side of the house. In winter, the plant needs extra backlight. Oleander does not like the soil of soil, but the swamps cannot be arranged. Watering to conduct as the upper layer of soil drying. In summer, the plant is contained at temperatures up to +25 degrees. In winter, the temperature is definitely lowered to + 15 degrees.