What plants love peat soil. Garden plot on peat soil. Peat based fertilizer

Peat soils, their improvement

There is an opinion among the people that such soils seem unsuitable for growing vegetables and berry bushes, but after two or three years of their development, most garden crops can be grown on them.

But the approach to the development of each type of peatland should be individual.- depending on what type of swamp was previously in this place.

Peaty soils are very diverse in their physical properties. They have a loose, permeable structure that does not require special improvement. But they all contain little phosphorus, magnesium and especially potassium, they lack many trace elements, primarily copper.

Depending on their origin and the thickness of the peat layer forming them, peaty soils are divided into lowland, transitional and highland.

Most suitable for growing garden and garden plants low-lying peatlands, often located in wide hollows with a slight slope. These soils have good vegetation cover. Peat on such peat bogs is well decomposed, so it is almost black or dark brown, lumpy. The acidity of the peat layer in such areas is weak or even close to neutral.

Low-lying peatlands have a fairly high supply of nutrients in comparison with transitional and especially high-moor peatlands. They contain a lot of nitrogen and humus, since plant residues are well decomposed, the acidity of the soil is weaker, they have enough water, which must be drained into ditches.

But, unfortunately, this nitrogen is found in lowland peatlands in a form that is almost inaccessible to plants and only after aeration can it become available to plants. Only 2-3% of the total nitrogen is in the form of nitrate and ammonia compounds available to plants.

It is possible to accelerate the transition of nitrogen to a state accessible to plants by draining the peat soil and enhancing the activity of microorganisms that contribute to the decomposition of organic matter by introducing a small amount of manure, ripe compost or humus into the soil.

High-moor peat bogs are usually excessively moistened, since they have a rather limited runoff of rain and melt water. They are highly fibrous, since they do not contain conditions for more significant decomposition of plant residues. This leads to strong acidification of peat, which explains its very high acidity. Such peat bogs are light brown in color.

The nutrients in high-moor peat, which are scarce in any peat soil, are inaccessible to plants. And soil microorganisms that contribute to the maintenance of soil fertility are often simply absent in them.

When laying orchards and vegetable gardens on such soils, high costs are required for their cultivation. To make such soils suitable for growing garden plants, lime, river sand, clay, rotted manure, and mineral fertilizers must be added to them.

Lime will reduce acidity, sand will improve the structure, clay will increase the viscosity and add nutrients, and mineral fertilizers will enrich the soil with additional nutrients. As a result, the decomposition of plant residues of peat will accelerate and conditions for the cultivation of cultivated plants will be created.

And in its pure form, high moor peat can practically only be used as bedding for livestock, since it absorbs slurry well.

All types of peaty soils are characterized by low thermal conductivity, so they slowly thaw and warm up in spring, and are much more often exposed to return frosts, which delays the start of spring work.

It is believed that the temperature of such soils on average during the growing season is 2-3 degrees lower than the temperature of mineral soils. On peat soils, frosts end later in spring and begin earlier in autumn. There is only one way to create a more favorable temperature regime on such soils.- by draining excess water and creating a loose structural soil.

Peat soils in their natural state are almost unsuitable for growing garden and vegetable garden plants. But due to the presence in them of a large amount of organic matter, they have a significant "hidden" potential of fertility, all four "keys" from which are in your hands.

These keys are lowering the water table, liming the soil, adding mineral additives and using organic fertilizers. And now let's try to familiarize ourselves with these "keys" in a little more detail.

REDUCED GROUND WATER LEVEL

For removing excess moisture on the site and improving the air regime, peat soils very often have to be drained, especially in new areas. It is, of course, easier to do this all at once in the entire garden massif, but much more often this has to be done only on your site, trying to create your own local simplest drainage system.

The safest way to arrange the simplest drainage is by placing shovels in grooves two bayonets wide and deep drainage pipes, pour sand on top of them, and then soil.

Much more often, instead of pipes, branches, cut stems of raspberries, sunflowers, etc. are placed in the drainage ditches. They are covered first with crushed stone, then with sand, and then with earth. Some craftsmen use for this purpose plastic bottles... To do this, they cut off the bottom, screw the plug, make holes on the side with a hot nail, insert them into each other and lay them instead of the drainage pipe.

And if you are very unlucky and you have an area where the groundwater level is very high and it is rather difficult to lower it, then there will be even more worries.

In order to prevent further contact of tree roots with these very ground waters, you will have to solve not one, but two "strategic" tasks at once- to reduce the level of groundwater on the site as a whole and at the same time to raise the level of the ground in the place of planting trees by creating artificial mounds from imported soil As the trees grow, the diameter of these mounds will need to be increased annually.

SOIL OXIDATION

Peat soils are of different acidity- from slightly acidic and even close to neutral (in peat bog lowland soils) to strongly acidic (in peat bog soils).

The deoxidation of acidic soil is understood as the introduction of lime or other alkaline materials into it to lower its acidity. In this case, the most common chemical reaction of neutralization occurs. Lime is most often used for these purposes.

But, in addition to this, liming of peat soils also enhances the activity of various microorganisms that assimilate nitrogen or decompose plant residues contained in peat. At the same time, brown fibrous peat turns into an almost black earthy mass.

At the same time, difficult-to-reach forms of nutrients contained in peat transform into compounds easily assimilated by plants. And the phosphorus and potash fertilizers applied to the soil are fixed in the upper layers of the soil, are not washed out of it by groundwater, remaining available for a long time to plants.

Knowing the acidity of the soil on your site, alkaline materials are introduced in the fall. The dose of their introduction depends on the level of soil acidity and for acidic peat soils is on average about 60 kg of ground limestone per 100 sq. meters of area, for medium acid peat soils- on average about 30 kg, for slightly acidic- about 10 kg. On peat soils, in terms of acidity close to neutral, limestone may not be applied at all.

But all these average doses of lime application vary greatly depending on the acidity value, especially on acidic peatlands. Therefore, before adding lime, its specific amount must be clarified again, depending on the exact value of the acidity of the peat.

A wide variety of alkaline materials are used for liming peat soils: ground limestone, hydrated lime, dolomite flour, chalk, marl, cement dust, wood and peat ash, etc.

MINERAL ADDITIVES

An important element of improving the physical properties of peaty soils is their enrichment with minerals.- sand and clay,- which increase the thermal conductivity of the soil, accelerate its thawing and intensify heating. Moreover, if they have an acidic reaction, you will have to add an additional dose of lime to neutralize their acidity.

In this case, the clay must be applied only in dry powder form so that it mixes better with the peat soil. The introduction of clay into the peat soil in the form of large lumps gives little result.

The lower the degree of peat decomposition, the greater the need for mineral supplements. On highly decomposed peat bogs, 2-3 buckets of sand and 1.5 buckets of dry powdery clay per 1 sq. meter, and on poorly decomposed peatlands, these doses should be increased by a quarter.

It is clear that such an amount of sand cannot be added in one or two years. Therefore, sanding is carried out gradually, from year to year (in autumn or spring), until they improve physical properties soil. You will notice this yourself from the plants grown. The sand scattered on the surface is dug up with a shovel to a depth of 12-18 cm.

ORGANIC AND MINERAL FERTILIZERS APPLICATION

Manure, peat-manure or peat-fecal composts, bird droppings, humus and other biologically active organic fertilizers are applied in an amount of up to 0.5-1 buckets per 1 sq. meter for shallow digging for the rapid activation of microbiological processes in peat soil, contributing to the decomposition of the organic matter in it.

To create favorable conditions for plant growth, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers to peat soils: for the main tillage - 1 tbsp. spoon of double granular superphosphate and 2.5 tbsp. tablespoons of potash fertilizers per 1 sq. square meter, and in spring additionally- 1 teaspoon of urea.

Most peat soils have a low copper content, and it is in a form that is difficult for plants to access. Therefore, the introduction of fertilizers containing copper into peat soil, especially on acidic peat soils, has a significant effect. Most often, copper sulfate is used for this purpose at the rate of 2-2.5 g / m2, previously dissolving it in water and watering the soil from a watering can.

Good results are obtained by the introduction of boron microfertilizers. Most often, for foliar feeding of seedlings or adult plants, they take 2-3 g of boric acid per 10 liters of water (1 liter of this solution is sprayed on plants on an area of \u200b\u200b10 square meters. M).

Then the peat soil, together with the mineral soil, manure, organic and mineral fertilizers and lime poured on top, must be carefully dug up to a depth of no more than 12-15 cm, and then slightly compacted. This is best done in late summer or early autumn, when the soil dries up significantly.

If it is not possible to cultivate your entire site at once, then master it in parts, but by adding to them all the above amount of mineral additives and organic fertilizers at once, or first filling the planting pits with loose, fertile soil, and in subsequent years carrying out work on cultivating the soil in aisles. But this is already the worst option, because it is better to do all this at once.

On already developed peat soils, there is a gradual decrease in the thickness of the peat layer by about 2 cm per year due to its compaction and mineralization of organic matter. This happens especially quickly in areas where the same vegetables are grown for a long time without observing crop rotation, requiring frequent loosening of the soil.

To prevent this from happening, cultivated peat soil in garden, and especially in garden plots, needs an annual additional application of organic fertilizers.

If you do not do this, then every year on your site there will be a gradual irreversible destruction of peat (its mineralization), and after 15-20 years the soil level on your site may be 20-25 cm lower than it was before the development of the site began, and the soil will become waterlogged.

In this case, the soil on your site will no longer be fertile peat, but infertile sod-podzolic, and its physical properties will greatly change for the worse.

To prevent this from happening, among other things, as mentioned above, a well-thought-out system of crop rotation, saturated with perennial grasses, must constantly operate on your site.

In the future, it will be necessary to import and apply annually either a sufficient amount of organic fertilizers (10-15 buckets per 100 square meters), or other soil.

And if there is no manure or compost, then green fertilizer can help out. Sow and bury lupines, peas, beans, vetch, sweet clover, clover.

V.G.Shafransky

Decayed remains of flora and fauna, have long been used in agriculture... Gardeners use peat as a fertilizer, knowingly knowing about the values \u200b\u200band characteristics of this mineral.

How is peat formed?

In swampy places, a lot of vegetation and living organisms die, after death they form a compressed biomass. The further process takes place in conditions of high humidity and lack of air.

Peat extraction technology

Lying on the surface, it is easily mined. This is done in two ways:

  • milling;
  • lump or excavator method.

Milling

This method assumes layer-by-layer extraction of peat in short cycles. That is, with the help of milling drums, the top layer is milled with a depth of 6-20 mm. As a result, peat crumb is formed, the particle size of which is 15-25 mm. After milling, the layer is constantly turned over in order to dry.

When it dries up, they begin to roll it, stack it. Then everything is repeated, the number of repetitions reaches 10-50 times.

They have been using this mining method since 1930. The advantages of this method are that it is completely mechanized, that is, the cost of the material obtained is low. Milled peat is used in production, power plants. And in agriculture 15-25% of the extracted minerals. The milling method is intensive drying and requires good weather conditions. In addition, it is more in demand, since the cost of human resources is minimal, and production is in large quantities.

Lump

Extracted with excavators. Development is carried out to a depth of 400-800 cm. First, peat is mined with a ladle technique, then bricks are formed from it. They are laid out in the fields to dry. Then they are stacked and taken out. Based on the location of production and other development costs, the value of the mineral is determined. The weight of one piece varies from 500 to 1000 g. This method of extraction is not more than 90 years old.

Transitional peat

It is mined in all possible ways, it all depends on where it lies and which method is more profitable. Most often, this particular species is used for agriculture in order to increase soil fertility.

Peat as fertilizer: pros and cons

When purchasing peat, young and inexperienced summer residents add it in unlimited quantities to the beds with plantings. Whether this is correct, and whether it is harmful for cultivated plants, only a few ponder. Peat consists of 40-60% humus, but in its pure form it is very harmful for the garden. Plus, many gardeners consider a large percentage of nitrogen content, about 25 kg per 1 ton.

But few people know that this nitrogen is not absorbed by plants, as it is poorly absorbed.

It is better not to fertilize the garden with pure peat, it is necessary to mix it with others. The advantage of adding peat to the soil is that it increases the air permeability of the soil, makes it more airy and loose. It is easier for plants to grow in such land, but this is not enough for the full development of the root system, green mass and fruits.

High peat is suitable for those plants that thrive in acidic soil. In this case, it is added during transplantation and later it is mulched with the soil around the plants.

Comparison

You can understand the value of this mineral in comparison with organic fertilizers:

  • black soil;
  • chicken droppings.

Humus and manure

The main difference is acidity. Peat wins here, so it is used for depleted land. But in most cases, humus is used, since it contains more nutrients necessary for plant growth.

Chernozem

Chernozem contains a large number of humus, but there are also more pathogenic bacteria and viruses in it. Therefore, the summer resident has to choose on his own based on what the soil lacks. If peat is introduced, it must be diluted with sand and perlite and humus.

Chicken droppings

Chicken droppings benefit from being more valuable in terms of the composition of nutrients. Some summer residents prefer to use droppings.

What is peat for?

The novice gardener asks about the role of peat fertilizer for the site. The advantage of its use is that it contains a large amount of humic and amino acids, they contribute to the rapid growth of plants.

Peat is used for the preparation of fertile soil, for planting seedlings, indoor plants.

The main purpose of using peat in agriculture is to increase soil fertility.

The advantages of using a mineral on the site:

  • improving soil structure;
  • increased productivity;
  • increased moisture permeability;
  • improved breathability.

How useful is fertilizer for personal plot, the summer resident will appreciate after its application. But you should carefully study the composition of the soil, and then apply top dressing.

Peat properties

There are many properties due to which it is widely used in agriculture, medicine, cosmetology and many other industries. The summer resident is interested in the answer to the question of what properties peat has that are useful for a personal plot or summer cottage:

  1. Combined with others organic matter able to nourish and enrich the soil.
  2. Makes the soil moisture and breathable.
  3. Increases soil acidity.
  4. Removes pathogenic microflora from soil.
  5. Able to reduce nitrate levels.
  6. Weakens the effects of pesticides.

Peat properties differ depending on what type it belongs to. No need to deposit minerals on fertile soils... In this case, its properties are neutral.

Peat composition

The composition includes plant residues that have not completely decomposed. Decomposition products and mineral particles. Under natural conditions, it contains 86-95% water. Botanical composition:

  • wood residues;
  • bark and roots of trees;
  • various plant residues;
  • hypnum and sphagnum moss.

The chemical composition is different, depending on the type, botanical composition and degree of degradation. That is, the percentage of micro- and macroelements in its composition depends on what type of peat is studied, and whose plant residues in its basis depend.

Acidity of peat

It directly depends on how much calcium is in its composition. because of high degree horse acidity is practically not used for planting, it is suitable for mulching. Since its pH is 3-5. Summer residents prefer to use low-lying peat, since its acidity is 5-8. All particles in its composition are well decomposed and are suitable for feeding any crop.

According to the degree of acidity, the following classification is determined:

  1. Strongly acidic, their ash content is 1.5-3%, lime content 0.15-0.6%, pH 2.5-4.
  2. Medium acid, ash content 3-6%, presence of 1% in lime, pH 3.5-4.5.
  3. Slightly acidic, ash content 5-12%, lime more than 1%, pH 4.5-5.5.
  4. Neutral, high ash content, neutral pH above 7%.

It is worth remembering that when it comes to composition, it will not be possible to say unequivocally about all types. Therefore, general characteristics are given.

Decomposition rate

The presence of humus in it depends on how much the peat has decomposed. That is, the greater the degree of decomposition, the higher the percentage of structureless particles. This characteristic is basic in describing the qualities and useful properties.

This indicator is determined as a percentage, "by eye" or under a microscope. In the first case, only fresh peat is taken, which has its own natural moisture... Signs by which the degree of decomposition is determined:

  • plastic;
  • the number and safety of plant fragments;
  • the amount and color of the pressed water.

The decomposition is divided into 3 groups:

  • 30% - highly decomposed. It is squeezed through the fingers, separate, large fragments of plant residues remain in the hands. After squeezing out water, which is either very little or not at all, it remains plastic. The water is dark brown color.
  • 20% - medium decomposed. It is difficult to push through the fingers, a lot of plant remains remain in the hands. Water that is squeezed out is light brown or brown in color. The squeezed peat has a weak spring.
  • Less than 20% - slightly decomposed. Impossible to push through your fingers. Plant residues are easily distinguishable. Water is easily squeezed out, its color is yellowish or colorless. The pressed peat is springy and rough on the surface.

More detailed information is provided by the macroscopic method, it was proposed by P.D. Varlygin.

In the field, when it is not possible to conduct laboratory tests, the smear method is used. The disadvantage of the method for determining the degree of decomposition is the hardly distinguishable traces of poorly decomposed soil. And the plus is the quick determination of the results.

Peat types

According to the Institute's research on the European part of the Soviet Union, there are 38 species. But all these species are combined into 3 types, which are subdivided based on the properties of peat and the nature of the waters that feed the swamps.

  1. Lowland.
  2. Horse.
  3. Transition.

Low peat

It is fed by groundwater. Its pH is neutral or slightly acidic. In total, it contains 70% of organic residues, in addition, it contains a large amount of minerals.

Low-lying peat is often used to improve the soil composition of a soil that has been used for a long time without the introduction of any fertilizers.

Horse peat

Of all the types, it is the most infertile, therefore it is suitable only for mulching or for plants that need high acidity of the soil for growth and development.

Transitional peat

Secondary formation between lowland and high-moor peat, that is, the interlayer is transitional. With less trace elements, and low soil acidity. Plant residues that make up this species are almost constant, differ slightly, depending on the type of peat deposits.

Neutralized peat

A riding subspecies. It is used for the preparation of substrates; for this, raw materials of a low degree of decomposition are taken. In this case, limestone flour is used to neutralize acidity.

With its use, greenhouse soil, or soil for plants grown in pots, is made. For open ground, used for planting trees and shrubs.

Peat use

The spheres of its application in agriculture are very wide. Use a mineral in the beds, in closed ground, in the garden and when growing flowers.

For the vegetable garden

Pure peat is not used to fertilize the beds. Basically it is mixed with humus and other organic substances. And make it wet 50-60%. Otherwise, it will already be mulching.

Peat compost is common in summer cottages. In addition, summer residents call this method of application the most effective.

For greenhouse

The ability of a mineral to absorb moisture and at the same time retain it is indispensable when arranging a greenhouse. With the help of these properties, it maintains the optimal temperature regime of the soil in the greenhouse for a long time. Concurrently, the mineral is an antiseptic. Therefore, in greenhouses, peat is filled to 50-90%.

For garden

For use in the garden, preliminary preparation of the mineral is required. It is recommended to stand it thoroughly for 2 weeks. If possible, sift through a sieve.

When using peat in the garden, constant watering is required. Proper use will provide plant roots with nutrients and oxygen necessary for active plant growth.

For plants

Peat is used for many types of crops. It is used as a fertilizer in spring or autumn for digging. This helps to improve the composition of the soil and increase the nutrients that the plant takes for proper development and growth.

For flowers

Lovers of growing flowers, garden and indoor, also note the positive effect of peat on plants. Using the mineral as fertilizer helps plants recover faster after transplanting.

Peonies react especially well. They grow faster, bloom better and have a very strong odor. They use it as mulch and top dressing. In the second case, it is necessary to combine it with mineral fertilizers.

Winter application

IN winter period the mineral is used for compost. During the winter, it overheats and turns into the most nutritious fertilizer. Its application in winter causes early snow melting. Consequently, the soil starts to warm up earlier.

Fertilization of individual crops

The mineral is used for some crops in different ways, it is important to know how to fertilize correctly so as not to harm either the plant or the soil.

Potatoes

Growing potatoes is a laborious process. A summer resident, in order to get a crop, makes fertile soil in the garden, adding sand and clay. But by themselves, these components do not perform the necessary function, therefore peat is added to them. This soil composition is the most suitable for the crop.

Strawberry

Applying fertilizer on strawberry beds, gardeners note the early ripening of the berries, the harvest becomes richer, the taste of strawberries is richer. Brought in in spring or autumn, mixing with sawdust and drying well. Add it to the aisle of 30 kg per 1 m 2. Or directly into each hole.

Tomatoes

For this culture, peat is used as foliar and root top dressing once every 2 weeks. Or they add 4 kg to 1 m 2, scattering evenly over the garden.

For the best effect, the mineral is added when planting seeds.

Cucumbers

Thanks to the introduction of peat into the soil, a rich crop harvest is obtained. It is important to observe the dosage and properly lime or reduce the acidity of the soil. Observance of proportions will help to get the maximum possible yield from cucumber bushes.

Cabbage

For this culture, which is very picky about acidity, peat is used by lowering the pH. Then the effect of its application will be noticeable almost immediately.

Fertilizing the soil with peat

To increase soil fertility, summer residents use this mineral. But many do not even think that it does harm. Therefore, before fertilizing the soil, it is required to determine what exactly the soil needs.

By bringing it into fertile land, you should not expect improvements, since there will be no result. But if the soil is severely depleted, then it raises its fertility.

Peat preparation

Before use, it is necessary to properly prepare the mineral. To do this, you need to fulfill simple requirements:

  1. Ventilate well before use. To evaporate toxic substancesincluded in its composition.
  2. The moisture content of the raw materials used is not less than 50%.
  3. The impact on the plant is not instantaneous, sometimes they are noticeable, only after 2-3 years.
  4. Regardless of the season, fertilization is always appropriate.
  5. The best use is compost.

When to deposit

There are no specific deadlines, it is introduced at any time, in spring and autumn for plowing. During the period of plant growth, aisles and under roots.

Dosage

There are no regulations on the use of a mineral. They note only the moment that it is necessary to make it for several years in a row, gradually bringing the soil to the desired degree of fertility.

Peat mulching

This process also requires compliance with the rules, this leads to a positive result from the work done. Mulch during the growing season or before winter. In the summer, peat is used for this, which is applied in a layer of 1 to 2 cm. In the spring, protecting the plantings, up to 5 cm, the layer is not limited in winter.

Top dressing of soil

Peat mixed with any organic additives is used to enrich the fertile layer of the earth. Since he alone does not provide the proper enrichment with minerals. Mineral, in its pure form, is used only for mulching.

They use high moor peat for mulch, lowland and transitional, for soil enrichment.

Organization of peat compost

Pure fertilization provides little nutrients to the soil. Therefore, summer residents recommend composting. For its preparation, foliage, food waste, cut weeds and other plant debris are needed. The compost is prepared within 1-1.5 years. The degree of readiness is determined visually. The whole mass should be homogeneous and loose.

The ways

There are 2 ways to organize compost, which of them is preferred by the summer resident himself.

Focal composting

A layer of peat 50-60 cm is spread on the chosen place.Then, in a continuous layer, or in heaps, manure is laid out 70-80 cm.Moreover, the width is made, less peat by 1-1.5 m, then the top is covered with a layer of peat, 50-60 cm. from all sides. This method is preferable in winter.

Layered

Peat is distributed over a width of 4-5 m, the length of the site is possible, the layer thickness is 50 cm, then a layer of manure is laid, then peat again, and so several times, the height of the finished compost heap is 2 m. The last layer is necessarily peat.

Peat based fertilizer

Fertilizer manufacturers create plant food. They make it for those who cannot make a compost heap on their own. Made in the form of granules, which are added directly to the wells. And liquid fertilizer, which is much better absorbed. It is watered with plants and used as a growth stimulant for seeds.

Peat oxidate

Economical plant nutrition, which is much cheaper than imported counterparts. Helps plants accumulate nutrients, improves soil structure, and prevents toxins from entering the plant.

It contains amino acids, monosaccharides, proteins, humic acids, minerals and sulfic acids. When using, be sure to dilute with water.

Peat extract

For production, a lowland type is used, an extract is obtained using electrohydraulic processing. Fertilizer is very convenient to use. Contains many beneficial substances. Recommended for areas where there is no need to fertilize the soil.

Alternative to peat fertilizers

If it is not possible to acquire a mineral, it is replaced with organics with a similar composition of nutrients. These include:

  • manure;
  • humus;
  • humus;
  • bird droppings;
  • feces;
  • sawdust, bark;
  • siderates;
  • compost pits.

Choosing an alternative for a vegetable grower.

Manure

The best substitute for peat. Its composition is rich in minerals that plants need for growth and development. All of them are in an easily digestible form.

The only negative for the site is not to use fresh manure.

Humus

Rich in nutrients that increase the overall fertility of the soil. It is introduced before digging or directly into the wells.

Humus

They are used as an alternative to peat in most cases, as it is rich in nutrients that enrich the soil.

Bird droppings

Il

Sludge, rich in humus, potassium and nitrogen, is used in areas to increase soil fertility.

Feces

They are not used in their pure form; special preparation of fertilizers with their use is required. They are made on the basis of a compost heap.

Sawdust, bark

Cheap and affordable organic fertilizer, which becomes an excellent substitute for a mineral. Introduce on plots only rotted. Mixed with other dressings and layered with the ground.

Compost is prepared from the bark, mixed with mineral dressings and moistened. The fertilizer will be ready within 6 months.

Siderata

In the fall, the site is sown with perennial or annual crops, plowed in the spring. Useful substances pass into the soil, enriching the soil.

Compost pits

Harmless organic fertilizer that significantly increases soil fertility. The disadvantage of feeding is that it is prepared from 1 to 2 years. But do not forget that it is in this form that minerals are better absorbed by plants.

Peat as a fertilizer is indispensable on the site. But do not bring it in thoughtlessly, everything is good in moderation.

Over time, any soil is depleted and requires systematic fertilization, otherwise the cultivation of cultivated plants on it becomes difficult. In this case, gardeners resort to feeding the substrate with organic substances.

One of these is peat - a natural fertilizer formed from particles of dead bog plants. Peat, as a mineral, is mined in swamps, riverbeds or watersheds.

This type of raw material has been used for a long time as a basis for fertilizers for the land and in other fields of activity. The substance consists of decomposed plants and synthesis products - humic, mineral particles and water. The composition also contains a small amount of mineral and chemical elements.

Peat deposits are used in many areas. Mainly as a fuel in power plants, in animal husbandry, for cleaning drainage facilities, in the development of medicines for medicine. Peat insulating materials are used in the construction industry.

A large proportion of peat bogs are used by gardeners and gardeners to increase soil fertility... Fertilizers are made from peat deposits that stimulate preparations for plant growth, pots for seedlings and a covering biomaterial for the winter.

The peat material accumulates many products of photosynthesis and carbon, which, when introduced into the soil improves its permeability to moisture and air, makes it friable, and also changes the microbiological composition.

Substance improves the structure of the earth, reduces the content of nitrates, reduces the effect of pesticides, inhibits harmful bacteria and fungi, increases acidity. The humic and amino acids included in the composition improve the development of plant crops. That is why peat as fertilizer is so often used for vegetable gardens.

The following types of peat are distinguished:

  1. Lowland. This species is formed from particles of woody species, mosses, sedges and reeds in wetlands. Plants decompose without access to oxygen by microorganisms in the low-lying layer. This variety is characterized by high humidity and density. The peat layer consists of low-lying undecomposed plants: alder, fern, birch, spruce, willow, etc. It lies in river floodplains and deep ravines.
  2. Horse. From its name indicates what is formed in the upper layer of wetlands from grass and plants. Oxygen is involved in the formation. It has a light and loose structure and consists of the remains of plants of the upper type: larch, pine, marsh sedge, etc.
  3. Transient. It is a constituent part of high-moor and lowland peat.

Low-lying peat: application and properties of raw materials

This type of raw material is characterized by a high concentration of minerals and rapid decomposition. Mostly black.

A neutral or slightly acidic composition (pH 4–6) is saturated with humic acid, absorbs water strongly, therefore the humidity reaches 70%. Due to moisture, it is prone to lump formation, caking and silting.

Lowland peat before use air for several days outdoors, piling up in small piles. Used in combination with compost and the addition of mineral fertilizers to enrich the soil or retain moisture in clay or sandy soils.

Low-lying peat evenly spread on the surface of the earth and dig up the soil to a depth of no more than 10 cm. The optimal rate is considered to be an application of 20 to 30 liters / m². If the land on the site is new and has not been fertilized before, then 50 to 60 liters / m² are applied.

The introduction of peat raw materials makes the structure of the soil grainy, due to the fact that the particles of the earth are held together in small lumps. The soil freely passes air, is well nourished and retains moisture, which has a beneficial effect on root system plants.

Low peat often used for mulching surface of lawns in the spring. Before that, the lawn is combed out, fertilizers from nitrogen are added and a thin layer of peat no more than 3-5 mm is spread on the surface.

Mulching with lowland peat is used in the case of sandy and clayey soils, so that moisture can be retained longer during irrigation. To do this, remove weeds, water and fertilize the soil, then distribute the peat cover thin layer on the surface (2–5 cm), being careful not to touch the areas around the stems.

Horse peat: characteristics and uses in horticulture

High moor peat is characterized by its porosity and high moisture retention capacity. Not biodegradable for a long time.

Due to the long fibers of the structure, it retains minerals in the composition for a long time. The soil saturated with long-fiber high-moor peat is light, has thermal insulation qualities and does not shrink when growing plants.

Unfortunately, high-moor peat low in nutrients... High-type peat deposits have an acidic reaction, pH 2.5–3.1. and are often used to acidify the soil.

Some plants require just such an environment for development. For example, for potatoes, strawberries, hydrangeas, sorrel, violets, heather. In this case, ventilated peat is added in proportions of 1: 1 for loamy and sandy soils.

In order not to oppress plant crops with high acidity, high-moor peat is preliminarily composted in pits or heaps until complete decomposition of organic residues.

On the basis of raw materials, substrates are prepared for growing seedlings of vegetables and flowers, and also used in the greenhouse as the main material. Before this substance stir and ventilate, add mineral fertilizer and dolomite flour.

It is imperative to measure the acidity, since a pH level of 5.5–6.5 is considered optimal for plants. The prepared base is kept for 1.5–2 weeks, stirring occasionally, after which the plants are planted.

To use useful raw materials in gardening, you need to know some rules. Before use, peat fertilizer is "dissolved" and aired for about two weeks.

It is best to sift the material additionally through a special mesh. Airing is performed in order to reduce toxicity... Then the raw materials are piled up and kept for up to two or three months, periodically shoveling.

Peat fertilization has shown itself well in flower cultivation. Airy and porous soil promotes fast restoration of flowers after transplants. Peonies are especially favorable to the peat substrate. Flowers develop quickly and delight with bright colors, while exuding more intense smells.

Gardeners often use instead of manure peat compost. The only drawback of this method is the longer decomposition of peat in the soil than with manure. In addition, high-moor peat has a high acidity, which requires maturing before use. But with proper preparation, peat compost is in no way inferior to manure.

Composting is performed from early spring to late autumn... IN compost heaps add to the peat various material, which serves as an excellent supplement for beneficial microorganisms.

Most often, these are fallen leaves, plant waste, tops, weeds, food debris and sawdust. Compost takes about one - one and a half years to prepare. During this time, it is considered ready if the mixture has turned into a homogeneous mass.

Use of peat on summer cottage leads to positive results. The natural substance is used for the following purposes:

How should peat be applied? The method is ineffective if you just scatter the raw material on the soil surface. To achieve maximum effect, the peat material is mixed with turf, humus and other components, then make 2-3 buckets per square meter... Such feeding can be performed every year, which will increase the level of soil fertility by 1%.

Should be considered simple rules when making peat top dressing at a summer cottage:

  • The amount of peat matter in the soil composition should not exceed 70%.
  • Before use, be sure to mix with humus and sand.
  • Additionally, apply mineral fertilizers.
  • Use low-lying peat deposits.
  • Apply on loam and sandy soils.

The result of feeding is influenced by the degree of decomposition of peat raw materials, which should not be less than 30–40%. If a low-lying type of material is used, then before using it, you must ventilate and grind... At the same time, it is impossible to overdry the material, optimum humidity should be 50–70%.

Peat for the garden: the benefits and harms of raw materials

Gardeners use peat raw materials to give looseness to the earthen coma and create the correct structure of sod-podzolic soils, where sand and clay prevail. As you know, sand weakly retains water, and clay is airtight.

Therefore, better option for such a soil cannot be found. How is peat chosen for the garden? You can choose depending on the degree of decomposition of the substance. There are three categories:

  • Lowland type. More than 40% degree of decomposition. Due to its neutral composition, it is best suited for the vegetable garden.
  • Transitional type. Decomposition rate from 25 to 40%. Used as composting material.
  • Horse type. The minimum degree of decomposition is 20%. It is not recommended to apply it in its pure form to the soil due to its high acidity, it requires preliminary treatment.

The main benefits and harms of peat in the garden land plot... Let us determine what the beneficial effects of the peat composition are:

  1. Allows you to increase productivity by improving the soil, is minimal in costs.
  2. Increases the humus layer of the earth, thereby improving fertility.
  3. Increases the porosity, air and water permeability of the substrate, improving the functioning of the root system of plants.
  4. Fights pathogenic microflora, fungi, bacteria, is a good antiseptic.
  5. With a low acidity of the substrate, this indicator can be normalized if the type of peat is selected correctly.
  6. Heats up the earth quickly, is able to retain nutrients and stop their leaching.
  7. It is hygroscopic. Increases the moisture content of the soil.

What disadvantages and harm can bring:

  1. Peat is only harmful if used improperly or combined with poor quality fertilizers. Then the plants slow down their development, and in some cases even death is possible.
  2. The substance is capable of increasing the acidity of the soil, which adversely affects the growth of the crop. To avoid acidification of the soil, peat material is limestone - add 4–6 kg of lime per 100 kg.
  3. Peat will not do any good if the land is fertile and loose. The content of trace elements in the substance is minimal and will only be absorbed by 5%. This should be taken into account.

Peat as a fertilizer for vegetable crops

Almost all crops yield good yields when using peat. Tomatoes, sorrel, potatoes, strawberries, strawberries and blueberries react especially favorably to a useful substance.

Top dressing is carried out in the spring, simultaneously with planting potatoes. Peat mixed with manure thrown directly into the holewhich allows nutrients to better penetrate the seeds.

Peat also works well on the growth of strawberries. The fruits ripen faster, and the harvest becomes richer. Planting material has an equally good effect on tomatoes. Top dressing is carried out once every 14 days. root or foliar method.

It has long been known that peat is the most important organic fertilizer for all plant species. It is almost impossible to grow a good and rich harvest without the addition of peat, since the garden land is depleted every year.

What is the best peat for seedlings

Peat can be beneficial as well as harm your favorite plants. The fact is that it has a certain acidity (it is different for each species), and each fruit or flower needs these nourishment to a different degree.

For agricultural and horticultural use, the Russian manufacturer now offers a fairly wide range of peat-based fertilizers, but for seedlings it is better to use species with a neutral pH. These include the following.

Peat for seedlings can be combined with any soil. Add it in accordance with the application table (it is usually on the packaging of the container in which you purchased the peat). Many do not recommend using the land from their own plot, since it can be infected from last year by insect larvae, late blight, and so on. To do this, the earth is scalded with boiling water (or a weak solution of potassium permanganate), and the addition of peat will completely saturate it with the necessary elements.

When transplanting seedlings into the ground, a plant that has grown in already familiar soil will be more resistant to diseases and take root faster and more painlessly. At the same time, if you buy ready-made soil and soil for seedlings (vermicompost), there is no need to additionally feed it with peat, since it is usually already saturated with it.

Low-lying peat is characterized by low oxidation and a very high organic content. Such peat for seedlings is indispensable in regions where clayey soils with a high acid content prevail. At the same time, low-lying peat will not become destructive for temperate soils, since its pH-neutrality practically does not harm plants and promotes growth well.

What you need to know when using peat for seedlings

When planting seedlings, peat is necessary, but it must be used wisely. Here are the basic rules for using it:

  • If you are planting seedlings in ready-made soil, study its composition. It is quite possible that it already has the required peat content. In this case, you do not need to add it.
  • When buying pure peat, pay attention to the quality of the peat (excess inclusions, sticks or stones). If available, it may be better to find another manufacturer.
  • If you are planting seedlings in the ground from your own plot, you can use low-lying peat, which will later serve as fertilizer for the plot.
Exist different types the soil on which horticultural societies are located. Somewhere clay prevails, somewhere peat. For example, my site is on peat bogs. For some reason, some gardeners have a negative attitude towards such soil. Although all gardeners are trying to buy peat and fertilize their beds with it. This soil has its pluses and minuses.

Disadvantages of peat soil

The disadvantages of such a soil are as follows.

It is necessary to often water the sown seeds until the seeds germinate, since the topsoil (about ten centimeters) dries very quickly, and moisture is needed for the seeds to germinate. The moisture of the morning dew is not enough for all types of seeds. Small plants such as dill are particularly affected. For some plants, it is necessary to add sand to the beds (to retain moisture). Not all types of fruit trees grow on such soil.

Of course, fires should be burned with caution on peatlands. You will extinguish the fire from above, but it can ignite the lower layer of peat, and you will not immediately discover it. It is better to fill the site with gravel for this. Or you can do, as it was done on my site - a brazier was placed on a concrete slab. You can cook and burn garbage on it.

To drain excess moisture, drainage ditches, thirty centimeters deep, run along the perimeter of our site. This is sufficient to wick away excess moisture during rains.

Peat soil benefits

The advantages include the following.

Peat soil is very loose, light, it is a pleasure to work in such a land. You can dig any hole with your hands, spud the plants. You do not need to loosen the beds, it is enough to weed them. Before weeding, you do not need to moisten the soil, all the weeds are pulled out with ease. Almost all plants grow by leaps and bounds. You always have soil for planting seedlings at hand. After seed germination, when the roots of the plants germinate the upper dry layer and fall into the lower layer, it is rarely possible to water the beds. Because the peat soil is moist inside.

A hole was dug in my area: three by three meters, about two meters deep, it always contains groundwaterwith which I water my plants. Growing beautifully all summer different kinds leafy salads: lettuce, arugula, parsley, celery, mustard, watercress. I always harvest a good harvest of onions, carrots, beets, cucumbers, bell peppers, pumpkins, zucchini, cabbage, radishes, potatoes and other vegetable crops.

We added sand to the strawberry beds. Lush bushes have grown with a lot of berries, as a result, they got an excellent harvest. All of these plants grow very well in this kind of soil. Cuttings root well different plants because of the lightness of such soil.

Many types of flowers grow very well on peat soil and ornamental shrubs... There are many flowers on my site. These are dahlias, gladioli, asters, petunias, phloxes, irises, lilies, primroses, lavaterra, saintbrinks, hosta, tulips, daffodils, decorative sunflowers, crocuses, various types ochetki. And they all grow and thrive well without frequent watering and loosening. Of course, provided that the summer is not very dry. I can say that in dry summers it is necessary to water any soil frequently. Of the ornamental shrubs that grow well on my site, I can name the following - barberry, heather, juniper, thuja. Currants, honeysuckle, gooseberries, raspberries also grow well. And they all bear fruit perfectly.


On my site, I do not use any fertilizers, because I am opposed to any plant growth stimulants. My opinion is that what grows will grow. I collect a good crop from my site, and I have it environmentally friendly.

From my practical experience I can say that there is no need to be afraid of acquiring plots on peat lands. And if now I had a choice - on what basis to buy a garden plot, I would choose peat land. The advantages of such a soil are much greater than the disadvantages.