Projects and construction of a frame bath. Projects and construction of a frame bath Dimensions of side walls

The construction of houses and baths using frame technology is becoming more and more popular. This is because the technique is such that even alone you can build, not only a bathhouse, but even a decent-sized house. Despite the fact that the structure turns out to be warm (with sufficient insulation), it is also lightweight and inexpensive. Perhaps its only drawback is its high fire hazard, but this is the trouble of any wooden structure, and not just a frame.

DIY frame bath projects

Construction is often stalled due to the fact that you do not know how to properly plan a bath, so that it is convenient and safe. This can help finished projects layouts. Ideally, if one of them suits you completely: no need to rack your brains. Although you can make adjustments if necessary. And sometimes just an idea is enough for you to "fall into place" and a plan for your frame bath, which you will build with your own hands, has emerged. For this, we have selected several projects of frame baths of different sizes with different arrangement of rooms.

Bath layout 4 * 5 m

This is a bathhouse with an extensive relaxation room, a small bathroom and a 4.8m2 steam room. The foundation - tape shallow - depth 70 cm, plinth 40 cm high (total height of the foundation with plinth 110 cm), gravel pad 20 cm.There is a small porch, which, when used year-round, can be sheathed and turned into a vestibule. Then cold air will not enter the premises every time the doors are opened.

Finished drawing of a frame bath 4 * 5 m

Total area 20 m2, premises and their dimensions:

• Lounge 8.5 m2;
• Steam room of 4.8 m2;
• Bathroom 2.2 m2

Required materials for creating the frame:

• racks, bottom and top strapping are made of a board 100 * 50 mm;
• floor beams - from a board 150 * 50 mm with a step of 0.58 m;
• rafter system - from a board of 150 * 50 mm with a step of 0.58 m.

In this project, the baths are a fairly spacious recreation room and with such a small building size - 5 by 4 meters, a fairly spacious steam room - in a "clean" size of 4.8 square meters. According to the project, the stove is heated from the steam room, which is problematic for such a small room: there will not be much oxygen anyway. In this version, you can, leaving it in the same place, put a bath stove with an elongated firebox. In this case, firewood will be laid from the rest room, and the heater and the main “body of the stove” will be in the steam room. With this arrangement of the stove, the problem of heating the rest room is solved at the same time.

Read about choosing a wood-burning stove for a bath here.

Project of a frame bath 6 * 6 m

The photo shows the layout of a fairly solid bath 6 by 6 meters. A small veranda, a dressing room, a full set of necessary premises are provided.

This option is good because in almost any room lumber of a standard length can be used: 6 or 3 meters. This is convenient as there is little waste left. The foundation can be piled, columnar. A shallow tape or slab will do.

But there are some notes on the layout. Washing room by this project the frame bath turns out to be spacious. This is an option for those who prefer to relax after a steam room not in a cool (relative to a steam room, of course) relaxation room, but continue to relax in a humid and warm atmosphere washing. Then it maintains a temperature of about 30-35 ° C and a fairly high humidity (due to the increased power of the furnace and open door in the steam room). And they also install loungers, similar to the shelves in the steam room. Then a large sink is justified.

Needed big sizes sink if you plan to install a hot tub in it. If there is only a shower and a few small shops, then you can either fence off the locker room or increase the size of the steam room.

Bath plan after changes - with dedicated vestibule

The second note concerns the entrance. If they plan to come to the bathhouse in winter, it should have a fenced-in entrance - not directly to the recreation room. And this option is easy to implement. You just need to swap the window and doors and put a partition.

Read about where and how best to place windows in the bath here.

Total area 36 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• veranda 4.5 m2;
• recreation room 13.5 m2;
• sink 9 m2;
• steam room 9 m2.

Frame bath 6 * 3 m with a terrace

This option was developed by the Karkas construction company. The bath itself has small size - 6 by 3 meters. But an extensive terrace is attached to the front, a little smaller than a bath: 2 by 6 meters. The rooms in this bath project are quite small, no more than three people can sit in the steam room, and if one is lying, then only two. Moreover, the "recumbent" shelves can be located only opposite the door and their size will be small - a tall person can no longer lie down (2 meters, minus the thickness of the sheathing on both sides by at least 15 cm, total length of the shelf will be 1.7 m).

In this version of the layout of the bath, the stove can only be placed in the corner at the entrance to the steam room. She will be heated from the rest room, but you will need to choose some kind of high and narrow model - very little space is obtained for its installation. You can try to enter the Compact, Osa, Shilka and Biryusa ovens from Termofor, there are also small Varvara ovens - the Palenitsa and Mini models, if you need a reliable inexpensive oven under a brick screen, you can try to enter Heat Baby ". There are other small ovens and quite a few. It is necessary to decide on the maximum dimensions that will "fit" into the allocated space or move the door a little. In general, in an amicable way, it would be nice to move the wall at least half a meter. By increasing the size of the functional rooms, in the summer, most likely the recreation room will smoothly move to the veranda.

And one more nuance: if you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, then you need a vestibule or dressing room. In this version, you can move the entrance to the veranda and fence off a part of the area by making the entrance to the room through the vestibule.

Project of a frame bath with a terrace. Good because it is easy to do it yourself

Total area 18 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• recreation room 11.07 m2;
• sink 1.61 m2;
• steam room 3.48 m2;
• terrace 11.21 m2.

Key node materials:

Bathhouse 4 * 4 m with a terrace

The bath itself measures 4 by 4 meters. A terrace 4 * 1.5 meters is attached to it. This bath layout differs in that the steam room and the washing room have the same dimensions. In the steam room two, maximum, three people will feel comfortable at the same time. If a dry air sauna is planned, this layout fits without question.

For a Russian steam room, the option is not the best: at least one person is lying here, and for comfortable soaring in a Russian bath, the shelves must have a size of at least 2.1 * 0.7 m (or better, 2.2 * 0.8 m). In the washing room, if you are not going to put loungers there for relaxation after the steam room, they usually just wash. It is better to reduce its size by expanding the steam room. Then at least one full-fledged shelf can be entered. Although the stove will still be tedious to be small: firstly, the volume of the steam room is small, and secondly, there is not much room.

The dimensions of the premises in the basic design of the bath are as follows:

• total area 16 m2;
• recreation room 8 m2;
• sink 4 m2;
• steam room 4 m2;
• terrace 6 m2.

Key node materials:

• binding of a bath from a bar 100 * 150 mm;
• floor logs 150 * 100 mm with a step of 90 cm;
• ceiling slab - 150 * 40 mm through 60-70cm;
• rafter legs edged board 100 * 50 mm;
• roofing material - metal, corrugated board, ondulin.

Frame bath 5.4 * 6.3 m

In this frame bath project, the steam room has an area of \u200b\u200b5 square meters... There is also a terrace with a size of 2 * 5.4 meters.

Total area 22.2 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• recreation room 11.3 m2;
• sink 5.9 m2;
• steam room 5 m2;
• terrace 10.8 m2.

About the layout of the baths and the choice of the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, read the article " Optimal bath: what is she like? "

The advantages of frame structures

The frame building is a skeleton made of timber, sheathed on both sides with finishing materials. A vapor barrier and insulation are laid between them. It immediately becomes clear that, if necessary, construction can be low-budget. After all, it is possible to use inexpensive thermal insulation materials (straw, sawdust, etc.) which, despite being available, retain heat well.

It is clear that the weight of the walls with this technology is very small. And this leads to the fact that the foundation can be made lightweight. During the construction of baths, pile or pile-grillage, tape are most often made. But a monolithic slab or block foundation is also suitable.

Lightweight foundation - lower costs for materials and construction, because the foundation sometimes "pulls" half the cost of the entire construction. And in this option, the costs will be relatively small.

For construction frame house no complicated technique required. All that is needed is a saw, a hammer, nails, screws, a screwdriver, a plumb line and a level to check the verticality of the walls. If there is another technique, use it for health, but this is the minimum that can be done.

An important plus is that you can work alone, only occasionally inviting assistants for some operations. A vivid example is presented in the video: a woman herself, with her clearly not athletic hands, has almost completed a small two-story house using frame technology.

disadvantages

On increased fire hazard frame structures already wrote. And this is the main disadvantage of houses built using this technology. Therefore, it is advisable to process all materials with fire retardants (means that reduce the combustibility of materials).

The flammability of the walls leads to the fact that all electrical wiring must be placed in metal boxes or special non-combustible corrugated sleeves. For this reason, electrical work becomes more difficult and more expensive - the cost of casings and corrugated hoses is added.

A frame bath has additional disadvantages: high humidity makes its own adjustments. We will have to pay increased attention to the vapor barrier of the walls. When using mineral wool, it will be necessary to protect the insulation from moisture very carefully: when it gets wet, it loses its properties. Moreover, when dry, it restores them only partially. If it freezes wet, it just crumbles. Therefore, we choose a high-quality and reliable vapor barrier (not "hydro", but "steam"). When laying, we follow the technology down to the smallest detail (overlaps, gluing joints and attachment points, etc.).

Necessary materials

The basis of a frame house is a frame assembled from wooden beam... Depending on the planned dimensions of the bath, a beam of 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm is used for their assembly. For jibs, and crossbars that are nailed between vertical uprights, bars of smaller thickness are suitable.

When installing a roof for a Mauerlat, you will need about the same timber - 150 * 150 mm or so. For the rafter legs, all the same bars are 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm. Depends on the configuration of the selected roof and weight roofing material... By the way, very heavy roofing material - such as ceramic tiles - is undesirable to use for frame frames - the load on the walls is too great.

You will also need slats to create lathing, counter battens, and all kinds of auxiliary work. And there will be a lot of them: the crate is needed both on the walls on both sides and on the roof. Although, in some versions, the outside panels are sheathed with plywood (as in the video above). There are a lot of construction options, as well as the materials used.

Read about how to make a gable roof truss system with your own hands here.

You will also need sub-floor material. What it will be - unedged or edged board, plywood or other panel material - you decide. But all the wood will need to be processed. And fire retardants - to reduce flammability, and protective antibacterial compounds. Read about how to process wood inside the bath here.

The materials for covering the frame inside and out are selected based on personal preferences or the purpose of the building. If we talk about frame baths, then usually everything is sheathed inside with clapboard (they put tiles in the washing room), and outside with an imitation of a bar or a blockhouse.

It is advisable to use mineral wool as a heater for the bath: they do not burn. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the region. For middle band Russia is mainly used for baths basalt wool, with a layer of 15-25 cm. If you are worried about the possibility of emitting formaldehyde (much has been written about this), then you can take non-woven mats. In them emission harmful substances is minimal.

More often, frame bvni are insulated with mineral wool

• it cannot be used in a steam room - temperature conditions do not allow;
• it melts and sustains combustion;
• this insulation costs a lot (we are talking about extruded polystyrene foam).

You will also need a lot of nails and screws. For the construction of a bath, it is advisable to use galvanized ones: so that they do not rust and do not leave ugly streaks on the wood. They will be needed different sizes and diameters - for the assembly of the frame are large, for the lathing and sheathing is smaller.

About what fasteners to use in the construction of a bath, read the article "Fasteners for a bath and a sauna"

From the above, we hope you have concluded that frame bath you can build it yourself. To be sure of this, watch the video. A house with the participation of only one person was built using frame technology. It describes in more detail the construction technology of some nodes.

If you picked up a frame bath project, decided to build it with your own hands, but have no idea how to proceed, we recommend watching the video. In it, the experienced American carpenter Larry Hon tells and shows the technology of erecting the walls of a frame house. The video is very detailed, and takes more than an hour, but by the end of the viewing, the frame construction technology will be clear to you.

How to make drawings of a frame bath with your own hands

It is rather difficult to find such a person in our country who has never been to the bathhouse. Many people know what it is like to sit and relax in a good company after a steam room with a mug of aromatic herbal tea. Therefore, very often near the house on the site you can see albeit a small, but cozy bathhouse.

It is made of wood (timber or log), brick, stone, or made using frame technology. The latter will be discussed in this article.

Project

Most often, the bath is planned as a separate building, erecting it from rounded logs, ordinary or glued beams. But, frame construction lately it has become more and more often "to step on their heels."

Quite a few companies are ready to offer their clients standard or individual drawings of a frame bath. Although the cost of the latter will be more expensive, you will get an exclusive option that will not be repeated anywhere else.

What are the advantages of frame technology:

• significant reduction in building construction time;
• cost savings, since the cost of construction is much lower than the construction of, for example, a traditional log house.

Do not forget that you can build such a bath with your own hands, almost without attracting helpers. But at the beginning of the process, you still cannot do without a project on paper, which will allow you not to make unnecessary purchases and movements.

Creation of drawings requires certain knowledge, so if you doubt your abilities, it would be better to seek help from specialists. For those who are sure, below are instructions on how to correctly compose them.

Training

Before you start drawing up a drawing of a frame bath, you should decide on some points.

It is not enough so far that you have decided to make a bath using frame technology, you will need to calculate the following details:

1. The location of the structure on the site. Especially sewage and drainage should be considered. Very often the laying of these communications becomes a decisive factor.

1. Soil on construction site... This component is important, since for the bath it is necessary to build a foundation that directly depends on the soil on the site.
   By design, it can be:
   • tape (made of reinforced concrete or concrete);
   • piled from stone, concrete;
   • columnar - made of brick, concrete or stone;
   • made of separately lying blocks, the grooves between which are filled cement mortar or clay.

Advice: if you have planned to install a swimming pool in the sauna, groundwater should not be close to the surface of the site.

1. Building plan and number of floors. If you decide to build a wireframe two-story bath, you should consider additional load on the frame and base, which is quite difficult for a beginner. Also on this stage it is necessary to think in advance about the location of the stove and what it will be made of in order to understand where and what to install the chimney, as well as ventilation ducts in the premises.

1. Supply of communications.
   This stage includes:
   • electrical preparation, in particular the laying of electrical wiring;
   • type of ventilation;
   • thermal insulation;
   • vapor barrier;
   • features of drainage.
2. Roof. An important element of any building, since the durability of the structure directly depends on it. It will be important to know: what material should be used to make it, and what shape you want it to be in order to calculate the power of the floors.

Design and its features

As soon as you understand the above points, you can begin to create a drawing of the future bath, entering all the information received into it, as well as supplementing the project with the necessary details. Be guided by this rule - the more detailed the drawing, the easier it will be to build the desired building.

Try to prepare a few sketches in order to have a certain choice. For example, you will need to draw not only the general plan of the frame bath, but also floor drawings, where calculations and details should be indicated.

Separate plans should also be drawn up for communications. Thus, you will not get confused while laying the lines. However, do not forget that you should not complicate the project if you do not have enough knowledge. The best option is to use a ready-made option, only slightly adjusting it to suit your preferences.

Tip: use already built projects that have proven their reliability for compilation.

The plan of a frame bath with a terrace

The drawing shows a bath for suburban area with a terrace measuring 1.5 × 4 m, the total size of the structure is 4 × 6 m. This project is well suited for organizing summer gatherings in an open free area.

The plan of the frame bath assumes that the steam room consists of three rooms:

• steam rooms;
• washing or shower bath;
• rest rooms.

The tambour is shown separately on the plan. There is no room for the changing room, but there is a small place for changing clothes in the washing block. Outerwear is removed and stored in a special closet installed in the bath's relaxation room. The terrace itself merges with the living room, being its summer variety.

Output

Wireframe technology began to be used at full force by settlers in America. Due to the speed and ease of construction, it quickly gained popularity. Today, not only houses are erected in this way, but also outbuildings, including baths.

Frame technology will allow you to have a full-fledged structure, even if you have a small budget. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Frame bath 3 to 5: photos by stages of construction

A detailed photo report of the construction of a frame bath 3 by 5 meters.

The steam room itself is 3m x 3m, the dressing room is 2m x 3m. The terrace overlooks the pool with a diameter of 3m (also frame).

Ready base for the foundation.

A swimming pool has been installed and the erection of the shed frame has begun.

DIY frame bath: step by step instructions

It's hard to imagine now country cottage area without the presence of a bath on it. Taking a steam bath in a warm bath is a real Russian tradition, rooted in the depths of centuries. A bathhouse can be built not only in the country, but also in the city: the presence of a plot is a great opportunity to implement this initiative. Moreover, a frame bath is a modern high-tech design that does not require large costs.

A frame bath can be built with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialist masters. It is this type of construction that is the fastest and most affordable: a frame bath requires several times less materials than structures of a similar size from a bar or log.

Where to start building a frame bath?

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the bath. It can be an extension to the house, or it can be located separately from it. Before proceeding with the laying of the foundation for the future bath, it is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site and plan the construction itself: the number of floors and rooms, dimensions, interior.

Before the construction of a bath, a plan must be drawn up, where it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure, to estimate the volume and duration of work. All elements of the ventilation system, chimney, roof features and others should be marked in the plan important aspects... You can also attach a veranda or terrace to the bathhouse.

For the bath to be comfortable and to accommodate several people at the same time, its size must be appropriate. The best option for a steam room is 240x200x220 centimeters.

At the discretion of the builders or customers, the sauna can be equipped with a billiard room, a recreation room or an additional steam room.

The plan for the future bath should be drawn up as accurately as possible and taking into account the smallest details - so the construction process itself will be much easier. The bath project can be ordered from specialists. They will do everything competently and accurately, which will help to avoid major mistakes during construction.

Also, when planning a bath, a table is drawn up for recording all the materials necessary for the construction, which corresponds to the plan.

Materials required for the construction of a frame bath:

• foundation pouring cement;
• sand;
• bars for mounting the frame and ceiling;
• beams;
• insulation material in a roll ( mineral wool, ready-made mats, polyethylene, roofing felt, glassine);
• waterproofing film for walls and ceilings;
• lining for interior wall cladding;
• roofing material for the roof.

What foundation to choose for the construction of a frame bath?

Since the frame bath itself is very light, it will be enough for its construction strip foundation, which is poured directly under the walls along the entire perimeter of the structure. A common option is a columnar foundation, however, to install it, you need stable soil, otherwise the structure may collapse.

Due to the lightness of the frame bath, the foundation for it is poured according to a fairly simplified scheme.

When the main points are determined, you can proceed with the construction itself.

1. Pouring the foundation.

Step one. The perimeter of the future bath is determined in advance, along its edges special pegs are driven into the ground, within which it is necessary to dig a ditch 60 centimeters deep and 40 centimeters wide.

Step two. The moat is filled with sand to one third of the depth. From above, the sand is poured with water and carefully compacted.

Step three. After the first layer is tamped, finely chopped red brick or gravel is poured over it.

Step four. A layer of broken brick or gravel is covered with a layer of sand, which should be leveled with the ground.

Step five. Formwork is assembled from the reinforcement. The entire structure is poured with concrete, and on top is insulated with a thin layer of roofing material.

Important! Before the construction of a frame bath, at least a week should pass so that the foundation has the opportunity to properly settle.

1. Building walls.

Step one. The timber prepared for the frame bath must be thoroughly dried before starting work. It is not recommended to use birch wood for construction, as it quickly decays. The most the best option there will be linden, aspen or larch. The wood of these species is able to maintain its shape for a long time and has thermal insulation properties, which is very important for a bath.

Step two. After all construction work is completed, on the inside, the boards should be covered with an antiseptic solution, and on the outside - with furniture varnish, and in two layers. This procedure must be done around the entire perimeter of the room, avoiding only the steam room and the washroom.

Step Three The lower harness made of a reliable beam with a section of 10x10 centimeters must be firmly fixed, and then properly fasten the bars in the corners with nails. It is recommended to place the racks on metal pins so that during the construction of the walls they cannot change their location and knock down the structure.

Step Four Corner posts must be bricked into concrete.

Tip: The pillars - the basis of the walls of the future bath - should be placed directly under bearing walls, corners, stoves - that is, in those places where the load is greatest.

Step Five Along the perimeter of the walls are mounted racks of an intermediate nature, made of the same beam as the main structure.

Step Six To make the floor waterproof, it should be laid out with a beam of any wood, with a section of 15x15 centimeters.

Step seven. For cladding the bath outside and inside use the lining, affordable and easy to use. So that there are no gaps between the sheets of the lining, located in a horizontal position, they should overlap each other. This procedure is very scrupulous in nature, but it can protect the walls from excess moisture.

1. We proceed to the construction of the roof.

Step one. You need to take 8 special ceiling beams, sawn at the corner of the rafters. To begin with, only the extreme rafters should be exposed, and only after that, fix a couple more pieces in the center of the future roof. The rest of the rafters are attached to the main structure, first on one side of the roof, then on the other (through the ridge).

Step two. After the rafters are installed vertical posts, If necessary, an exit to the attic is done.

Step Three On the rafters located from the edges, beams are cut out, to which the frontal boards are nailed, after which the sheathing is attached from above.

1. It is necessary to insulate the walls.

The most common material for this purpose is a roll of insulation with a thickness of about 50 millimeters. In some cases, mineral wool or ready-made mats are used. Insulation is laid between vertical wooden posts, after which slats are nailed to them. It is recommended to use polyethylene or glassine for thermal insulation of the room.

Advice: it is not recommended to use roofing material for wall insulation, as under the influence high temperatures it starts to give off an unpleasant odor.

For floor insulation, it is better to choose expanded clay or other types of backfill, and for the ceiling - polystyrene. If the insulation is selected correctly, the heat will be lost several times less. Thanks to this, the cost of heating the bath will also be reduced.

After the walls and roof are built, it will be possible to start installing windows and doors in the openings left for them in advance. At the end of these works, it will be possible to enter the home stretch.

The final stage of the construction of the frame bath

To make the bath pleasant to use, it should not only be comfortable and well-designed, but also have a beautiful interior decoration. Therefore, after completion of the main work inside the bath, finishing work should be carried out.

First, you need to protect the walls and ceiling from the adverse effects of moisture and high temperatures. Coniferous upholstery is perfect for this purpose. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of the most important part of any bath - the stove. It must be installed in accordance with all safety requirements. The wall separating the steam room and the relaxation room is recommended to be made of brick - so it will let in less heat.

To make the walls look more attractive, it is recommended to sheathe them with clapboard. For this purpose the best way linden wood is suitable.

What are the main pros and cons of a frame bath?

1. Acceptable price. The construction of a frame bath is several times cheaper than analogues.
2. Ease of construction. A frame bath can be built with your own hands, without the help of specialists.
3. Light weight. The frame bath box is light enough, its weight is acceptable for areas with soft soil.
4. Short construction time. To build a frame bath is not only easy, but also quick: to take a steam bath in it, you don’t even have to wait for next summer.

1. Difficulty in leaving. Insulation materials can become unusable under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, and replacing them will be quite problematic.
2. Inappropriate for therapeutic purposes. Due to the fact that the walls of the frame bath do not emit useful substances, bath procedures in it cannot help with health problems. If there are any, it is recommended to build a different type of bath.

Despite the fact that the advantages of frame construction much more than shortcomings, the decision to build a bath of one type or another should be based on one’s own taste and based on one’s own abilities, both material and physical. The condition of the soil and the location of the future bath are also important.

In the construction of a frame bath there is nothing complicated and impossible. The instructions given in this article will help everyone to build the bath of their dreams in a short time, without spending a lot of material resources.

• The base is columnar. 4 blocks 200x200x400 in a cabinet for cement screed. The curbstones are installed on a compacted sand cushion. Sand (or ASG) is provided by the customer.
• Waterproofing TUMB FOUNDATION - roofing material in one layer.
• Harness - timber natural moisture (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 150 * 100 mm. Along the outer perimeter, the harness is laid in two rows.
• Logs of the floor - a chamber drying board (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 150x40 mm, with a step of 600 mm.
• Draft floor - edged board of chamber drying (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 19/22 * 100 / 150mm. Steam waterproofing - NANOIZOL S.
• The harness, logs and the subfloor are treated with the protective nonwashable compound NEOMID.
• Floor insulation - min. cotton wool KNAUF / URSA 100 mm thick. Vapor barrier - NANOIZOL "V".
• Finishing floor of the first floor, attic (if available according to the project) - grooved batten chamber drying (pine AB) 36mm thick. Each fifth board is fastened with self-tapping screws (for the possibility of further constriction of the floors).
• External walls and pediments - frame made of chamber-dried bar (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 40x100mm. The frame is treated with the NEOMID fire-retardant compound.
• Outer skin walls, pediments - chamber drying lining (spruce / pine AB) 15-17 mm thick. Wind-moisture protection - NANOIZOL A. Counter-lattice - whetstone 20 * 40 mm. The ventilation gap is 20 mm.
• Wall insulation - ROKVUL basalt plates, 100 mm thick. Vapor barrier - NANOIZOL V.
• Inner lining walls - chamber drying lining (spruce / pine AB) 12.5 * 96mm. Counterrail - 10 * 30 mm. The ventilation gap is 10 mm.
• Partitions - a frame made of a chamber-dried bar (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 40x75mm. The frame is treated with the NEOMID fire-retardant compound.
• Heat and sound insulation of partitions - ROCKWOOL basalt slabs 50 mm thick. Vapor barrier - NANOIZOL V.
• Sheathing of partitions - chamber drying lining (spruce / pine AB) 12.5 * 96 mm, on racks.
• Decorating the walls and ceiling of the steam room - chamber drying lining (aspen AB) 14 * 90 mm. Counterrail 10 * 30 mm. The ventilation gap is 10 mm. Foil based heat reflecting insulation - NANOISOL FB.
• Installation of the ERMAK 12 furnace with a hinged tank (stainless steel 35 l) for heating water. The base of the kiln is brick, ribbed in one row. Cutting the furnace portal - brick. Fireproofing - ROKVUL basalt slabs, basalt cardboard, protective screens and a flood sheet made of smooth galvanized steel sheet, ceiling and roof passages.
• The chimney is vertical. Sandwich pipes 115 * 200 mm with an outer contour of galvanized steel. Gate valve.
• Installation in a washing room shower tray 800 * 800 mm with a siphon. Discharge of the drain outside the perimeter of the bath.
• Wall and ceiling decoration around the pallet - PVC lining. White color.
• Ceiling height of the first floor clean (from floor to ceiling) - 2.20 m for one-story baths. The ceiling height of the first floor is 2.30 and the attic height is 2.20 m, for baths with an attic.
• The staircase to the second floor (for baths with an attic) - on bowstrings made of planed timber, with steps from a floorboard. Handrail and railing in the attic made of planed bar 40 * 100 mm.
• Filing of the FIRST FLOOR ceiling (except for the steam room) - lining of chamber drying (spruce / pine AB) 12.5 * 96 mm. Counterrail - 10 * 30 mm. The ventilation gap is 10 mm.
• Floor insulation - min. cotton wool KNAUF / URSA, 100 mm thick. Vapor barrier - NANOIZOL V.
• The roof is gable, mansard (broken) or multi-gable (for several slopes), depending on the project.
• The height of the roof in the ridge is 1.20 m (for one-story saunas). Roof height in the ridge - 3.50 m (for saunas with an attic)
• Warming of the walls of the attic (for baths with an attic) - basalt slabs ROKVUL 100 mm. Vapor barrier - NANOIZOL V.
• Insulation of the attic ceiling - KNAUF / URSA mineral wool 100 mm thick. Vapor barrier - NANOIZOL V.
• Finishing of the walls and ceiling of the attic - chamber drying lining (spruce / pine AB) 12.5 * 96 mm. It is sewn along the rafters through the Nanoisol B membrane.
• Rafters - trusses made of chamber drying boards (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 40 * 100/150 mm. Rafters are installed in increments of 800 mm.
• Roof lathing - chamber drying board (spruce / pine AB) 22/25 * 100 / 150mm. Counter lattice - bar 20 * 40 mm.
• The rafters, lathing and counter-lathing are treated with the NEOMID fire-retardant compound.
• Covering - ONDULIN (burgundy, brown, green) or galvanized corrugated board.
• Eaves and overhangs of the roof with a width of 200 mm (for one-story baths) and 300 mm (for baths with an attic) - hemmed with a chamber drying clapboard (spruce / pine AB) 17 * 90 mm.
• The windows are wooden. Double glazing on silicone sealantthrough the aluminum bar. Inward-opening sashes. Screw loops, rotary locks. Dimensions (height * width): 1200 * 600/1000/1200 / 1500mm; 600 * 600 mm, 400 * 400 mm.
• Entrance door, interior doors - wooden, paneled, polished (spruce / pine A). Size (height * width) 1800x800 mm - for one-story baths, 2000 * 800 mm - for baths with an attic. Pens, hinges. Front door with a lock.
• The doors to the steam room and the washing room are frame sauna doors (aspen A). Size (height * width) 1750 * 750 mm. Pens, hinges.
• Windows and doors are installed in installation boxes. Technological gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.
• Open terrace, porch (if any). Supports - planed timber (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 100 * 100 mm. The fence is a planed beam (spruce / pine AB) with a section of 40 * 100 mm filled with carved (flat) balusters. Floor - dry grooved floorboard (spruce / pine AB) 36 mm thick. Fastened with self-tapping screws to each board. Boards are stacked in 5 mm increments. Ceiling - lining (spruce / pine AB) 17 * 90 mm.
• Sealing of corners, joints, junctions - baseboard (spruce / pine, aspen AB) 40 / 45mm.
• Finishing of windows and doors - platband (spruce / pine, AB aspen) on both sides.
• Hardware: black building nails, building and finishing nails galvanized, self-tapping screws, steel galvanized perforated fasteners (corners, plates)
• Delivery up to 400 km from our base (https://www.google.ru/maps/@58.5898152,35.7784028,13z) + unloading of the house kit.
• Assembly of a bath at the customer's site.
• BONUS: accessories for the steam room. Stove stones - gabbro-diabase 40 kg.

Important clarification! The project was not made for publication, this page was created only to ensure that records and calculations were always at hand.
I looked at the statistics of the site, they go to the page, and what was a surprise to me, they are downloading ...
On this, I have to warn.
I am not a builder; I made calculations on the bearing capacity of rafters and floors using available information on the Internet. So, if you suddenly decide to build on this project, then this is at your own peril and risk.
It is better to turn to a small construction company, they will build there quickly and inexpensively, From the recommendations- es-spb.rf.
Well, in principle, the bath box, (at the moment, temporary huts), is worth it, overwintered normally. In the course of work, minor changes were made to the project, as I didn’t plan to conduct any reports, but finished the construction last year, I only remember that replacing the window with a larger one and using other steam and windproof films.
The estimate, of course, increased, but not significantly.

Stove - "Baby" Steam with a closed heater from the "Feringer" plant. Steam room with a volume of 10.7 cubic meters.
Washing department with an area of \u200b\u200b6.75 sq.m. Two-thirds of which are allocated for wet procedures.
At first, it will be used as a makeshift. Consequently, the construction will be in two stages.
1. Frame with insulation and external decoration. Perhaps the wall between the steam room and the sink. A shower can be made at once, all interior decoration is hardboard.
"Steam room" - a bedroom, you can put a simple stove, for example, such
If you do not make a shower, then you can organize a pantry. Lay linoleum on the floor of the entire room.
2. After the construction of the house, internal partitions are installed, the steam room is finished with imitation of a beam, the washing compartment with lining and plastic panels. On the floor - granite, in the vestibule - lining and linoleum.
So far, the water supply is planned to be autonomous, i.e. in the attic, there will be tanks for cold water and heated for the shower. They will be drawn with a hose from the pump in the well.

The first stage is temporary

Second stage - bath

Column foundation

We mark and dig holes 0.6 by 0.6 and a depth of about 0.4 m (maybe 0.5 each). We level the platform with a slight slope towards the ditch
We lay the geotextile in the pits, fill it with ASG, spill it with a tambourine. We bring to the level.
We are laying drainage. The pipe can only be placed around the perimeter, the middle can be made with old skirting boards (do not throw it away)
We assemble the formwork from the chipboard, which in the barn, if not enough, I sort the shelves. In the first formwork, we cut out the boxes from roofing material. First, we make the lower platform by cementing the reinforcement in it. Not earlier than two days later, we make the formwork for the upper part, and fill in the rest according to the level. At least in the corner posts, remove the pins to fix the lower harness.
We cover it with film between the stands, sprinkle it with sand or ASG.
We are waiting for at least two weeks.

General form

Dimensions

Fittings

Knitting pattern. On one pedestal - 6 pcs. by 300 mm. and 3 pcs. 200 mm each.

Drainage and gutter

Approximate location

Materials

Bottom harness

Boards for the lower binding are treated with an antiseptic, and left to dry for a week. Antiseptic, you can try to do it yourself.
Then we assemble the harness, starting from the outer contour. The inner part with the central beam is assembled as follows:

• We cut out two boards of 1340 each and nail on one (lower in the diagram) side.
• To their end, we nail the board 5840, then to this board we nail the second 5840
• And only after that, we fix the remaining 1340

ADDITIONS

We attach a net from mice to the harness and to hold the floor insulation. To make it more convenient to work later, you will have to use the "platform", at least temporarily lay the floor.

General form

Lower harness drawing

Bottom Materials

Platform

These boards are also treated with an antiseptic.
The links on which the beam will be supported are marked in blue

ADDITIONS

I don't do nonsense, I don't do blue inserts. Immediately put solid wall racks (do not forget to count)

General view of the platform

Platform drawing

Saw cut

Walls

Under the window is the frame so far as in the diagram, since the window will probably be wider, you will have to move the racks apart, put the upper crossbar and support posts under the frame, cutting the lower crossbar into them.

ADDITIONS

Racks (2 pcs.) Shower walls and steam rooms (for supporting the ridge beam) will have a length of 3080 mm. (not 3000 mm. as in the diagram) and lean on the lower strapping. Although the size may go away, therefore, it is better to first put the ridge beam, and then adjust the racks in height.
And in the wall rack of the steam room, you will have to cut a groove for the lag
We must not forget to redraw

First wall

General view of the western wall

East Wall Dimensions

General view of the wall

Side wall dimensions

General view of the walls

Shower wall size

General form

Cross insulation lathing

General view (without shower wall)

Sawing on four walls

Rafter system

The length of the removal of the rafters under the visor above front door, most likely you will have to customize if the roof is made of metal, and not corrugated board. (lumber length, allows to increase by 300 mm.)
As an option, do not touch the rafters of the visor, but lengthen the short rafters (7 pcs), about 3 cm, or at this distance, take out the first plank of the batten (but then there are problems with installing the cornice strip)
In short, you need to look at the place, everything will depend on the step of the wave.

Overhangs (or rather, their power elements) from the ends in the drawing are rounded to 1 m. In practice, they will be shorter. With a useful width of the roofing sheet 1100 mm. They will protrude (with a cornice strip) by 300 mm.
Before making these elements, it will be necessary to expand and measure the roofing material.

Rafter dimensions

Rafter sawing

General form

General form

Inserts

Roof

All sizes (also the section of the boards) will need to be recalculated after purchasing the roofing material

Decking is easier and faster; metal tile is more beautiful and more beautiful. Under the metal tile, you may need to increase the height of the frontal boards (those that are 100, put 150) and use not a 50x50 bar, but something more.

Lathing and counter lathing

Lathing sawing

General form

Frontal boards and extensions

Sawing

General form

Siding

On the membrane, under the crate, to calm conscience (so that the insulation does not protrude), you can attach a plastic tape for greenhouses, in increments of 60 cm.

Under the visor it will be necessary to put the cuts, size and location, I will look at the place. I will most likely make them from two boards, 100x40 and 100x25

Siding equipment may change, so at the door, you can put a j-profile, and make a window with a finish bar. The number of panels is designed for size 3660x230

For cross-insulation, it is necessary to put insulation before installing the siding

Lathing and counter lathing

Lathing sawing

Lathing and counter lathing

Final result

Floor

If the weather is rainy, it is better to let the whole structure stand for a month before continuing to work.

Well, then, we lay a windscreen, or just a spanbox, we lay the insulation in a run. The film is only so that the insulation does not blow out.

We nail the board with the expectation of the joints of the OSB

Floor

General form

OSB

General form

Insulation, installation of partitions

First of all, we put insulation in those places where there will be inserts for fastening interior walls. Crepe the insert, and mount the remaining insulation.

Well, and only after that, we warm the ceiling, parasolate it, and sheathe hardboard. We close the insulation with wind protection.

Calculation of insulation

This should be enough, and 1.74 m2 should also remain from cross-insulation.

Partitions

Stove wall

Shower wall

Fiberboard layout

Estimate

Installation of electricians includes:

The septic tank kit includes:

1. Station Topas 5 ave;
2. Laying 2 lm sewer pipe DN 110mm;
3. Laying of an electric cable VVG 4x1.5 10 rm. into the HDPE pipe or el. corrugation;
4. Preparation of a pit for AS Topas with subsequent sanding;
5. Drilling a hole in a septic tank for a sewer pipe, soldering a sewer pipe DN 110 mm with a septic tank;
6. Electrical cable connection in the septic tank junction box;
7. Compressor installation, commissioning. Pipe laying DN 32 mm - 2 r.m. to drain the purified ode from the septic tank;

The septic tank does not include:

In 2018, they built a house for me according to my project, professionals in their field. The project itself, in comparison with competitors, is slightly more expensive, but in our village they built another 1 house and the owners were satisfied.

We ordered the construction of the bathhouse, managed in the shortest possible time, without complaints about the work of the brigade.

The complete cycle from material production to home assembly is well organized. Quality, professionalism at top level. Recommend.

It is very important to find your manager who will advise not only at the conclusion of the contract, but also during construction. We talked with Igor, as a result, the bathhouse is ready on the site, we use it, everything is fine. Thank you.

Great houses, great service! All told, helped with the choice. You can see everything alive - we went to an object under construction roughly similar to ours, where we saw how they work, only after that we decided to build. Thank you for the patience of managers and builders that answered all the questions!

In 2018, a bathhouse was ordered. Very pleased with the work of the staff of this company. Starting from the estimate and ending with a team of builders. We were lucky for the action, got a stove-stove for a bath as a gift!

Thank you for the house with the sauna. On the site, some prices are indicated, but in fact it is more. But it’s understandable that the price is indicated for the minimum minimum, like everyone else on the Internet, if you want with comfort, pay extra for special stages. In general, thanks to the builders.