DIY wooden round table. How to make a round wooden table with your own hands. How to make a rectangular table for a summer residence

The table - an integral attribute of every home - can be made of different materials, have a simple and intricate shape and carry different functions, but it is completely impossible to do without it. Not everyone understands why make a table with your own hands, if such an ordinary item is easy to buy at any furniture store. Indeed, not everyone dares to make furniture with their own hands.

But that daredevil who deliberately gets down to business will certainly enjoy the process and the excellent result of his labors. Some come to this, wanting to save money, especially if something simple is required. Others, obeying a creative impulse, want to have a unique piece of furniture in their home that will enhance their mood and self-esteem. In addition, a do-it-yourself table always has ideal proportions and matches the interior style of your particular home.

Product shape and design

A wooden table is an environmentally friendly, aesthetic and durable product that will successfully fit into both an apartment and a summer cottage. Moreover, there are options for special garden tables. It can be lightweight, portable, or solid and massive, have different models and shapes:

• Angular;
• Oval;
• "Book";
• Folding;
• Sliding;
• Transformer.

Transformers is perhaps the most interesting category of tables.When folded, they are very compact and look like a small bedside table. If you put it against the wall, then it will take no more than half a meter. A table of this shape is indispensable in a limited area, when it is not possible to hold dinner table for a dozen people. Hinged worktop covers are attached with a hinge system. Transformers are usually rectangular, but there are also round models.

Before getting started, decide what configuration and size you need. Below are general guidelines from professionals:

• A hand-made table must match the room for which it is created, both in size and style;
• When creating a street version, it is important to think in advance how many people will use it at one time;
• A folding table is a great option for hospitable hosts. Such a product will be used assembled for family dinners and will become a godsend during the reception of guests;
• For a comfortable feast, the place at the table reserved for each guest should be at least 70 cm;
• The child's model should be designed according to the age and height of the child.

Manufacturing will cost some work and time, but the result will please. After all, a handmade product will be inexpensive and fully consistent with your ideas and desires. If you wish, you can make a whole set of furniture, but this will require special skills and dexterity.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the table, you should carefully read the drawing so as not to translate the materials in vain.

Tables can be divided into the following structural types:

• Solid wood;
• Prefabricated (from terraced, grooved, unedged boards);
• Glued;
• Made in the form of a "shield" of lamellas.

Solid wood furniture is elite and has a rather high cost. The rest of the options are simpler and can be used both in pure form and in combination. Glued tabletops made of boards of different types of wood, made with epoxy - this is an adhesive based on resin, look very nice. Natural wood patterns and different textures create an incredible effect. Products made using this technology, very strong and resistant to deformation.

Material selection

The most popular material for tables and other garden furniture is wood. This is easily explained, because wood has a number of significant advantages over other materials, for example, metal or concrete. The tree has such advantages as:

• Ease of processing;
• High aesthetics;
• Resistance to different climatic conditions;
• High amortization;
• The possibility of restoration;
• Ample opportunities in the field of processing and painting;
• Safety for human health;
• Low cost of certain categories of wood;
• The beauty of natural patterns.

Natural wood is a material with a beautiful natural texture, rather inexpensive, environmentally friendly and durable. It is resistant to moisture when specially treated, pliable for carpentry tools, and therefore excellent for making household furniture and utensils.

The appearance of the finished product and its characteristics will depend on the type of material and its preparation, so it is worth starting with the selection of wood. Each type of wood has its own hardness. The most popular tree species can be identified:

• Spruce, pine and cedar are softwoods. Easy to process material, but prone to deformation, drying and cracking;

• Oak, beech, larch and birch are hardwoods. Beautiful and noble types of wood. Moisture resistant and durable. Processing oak and other hardwood products will require electrical tools;

• Superhard materials - yew, hornbeam and acacia - possessing an extremely dense internal structure, are highly durable materials. Requires professional industrial processing.

To make a wooden table, you need an edged board or timber. A table made of slabs will have a brutal look and fit perfectly into vacation home in a hunting style. A wide slab can serve as a material for an entire countertop. Another material for creating a countertop is a trunk cut. First, a trunk of the required diameter is selected, then an even cut is made and varnished. This technology generates a large amount of waste.

The durability of the product depends not only on the processing of wood, but also on the choice of wood species. Hard rocks are not always a good choice. In conditions of temperature drop and high humidity, the tree swells and crumbles. The best option for a street or country countertop is elastic wood.Characteristics such as hardness and resilience provide resistance to deformation. Spruce, aspen, larch and linden can boast of such properties.

Before starting carpentry work, the wood must be sanded and treated with an antiseptic, and at the end you will need to be varnished. In addition, the stain will give the product a finished look.

Instrument preparation

If you were inspired by new ideas and decided to make a wooden table with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following tools for work:

• Thicknesser;
• Saw;
• Jigsaw;
• Hacksaw;
• Jointer;
• Milling cutter;
• Screwdriver;
• Drill;
• Grinding device;
• Clamps;
• Pencil,
• Roulette,
• Square.

In order for the work to argue, consider the shape and size of the product, prepare drawings. The size of the product will depend on the area allotted for it, and the average height is 70 cm. Here is a list of materials required for the work:

• Antiseptic;
• Sandpaper of varying grain size;
• Boards;
• Bar or slab;
• Paint and stain;
• Glue.

For a standard family of four, a square table with a side width of one meter is suitable. Size 120 by 90 cm will accommodate both hosts and guests.

Drawing construction

The drawing is a diagram that clearly tells about the sequence of actions, following which the expected result is guaranteed. If a unique design is conceived, then you will have to work on the diagram and drawings yourself. To do this, you can use a computer program, then print the received documents in order to have a visual guide.

Manufacturing of parts

The step-by-step process of making wood countertops can be described as follows:

• Select the required amount of materials. For a standard width, you need 6-7 boards 3 cm thick. Only perfectly flat boards processed with a jointer are suitable. Knots are not a hindrance.
• Subject the tree to antiseptic treatment and dry thoroughly.
• Lay out the boards in the form of an even rectangle. Align the joints.
• Attach a block on both sides and cut evenly.

• Screw the timber to the boards. FROM back side countertops, in the center of the boards on each side, drill a bolt hole 2/3 through the block. Make the recess wider on the bar so that the bolt head sinks.
• Round corners.
• Attach the board diagonally from below with self-tapping screws greased with glue.
• Sand the surface first with coarse sandpaper, then softer.
• Cover the product with stain and varnish. The table can be painted if desired.

Homemade solid wood worktop

Tables made of such material have an even and uniform structure, have no joints or crevices. Another argument in favor of this technology will be resistance to deformation and cracking. To make a table, you will need 4 boards with smoothly rounded edges, having the following parameters - 1x1.5x0.5 m. The work algorithm is as follows:

• At the ends, at a distance of 10-12 cm, make holes 8-12 mm in size. They are needed for fastening dowels and dowels. The holes in the two side boards are made on one side only.
• Fold boards correctly before glueing.
• Sand the boards, coat with glue.
• Insert the dowels and fasten the boards.
• Align the ends and make sure each board is in the correct position.
• Lay the finished worktop on a flat surface and press firmly with a clamp.
• Leave to dry.

Making a round table

To implement the idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a round table with your own hands, you need to have the following materials:

• Square timber (width - 100 mm, length 750 mm - 4 pieces;
• Boards 100 x 20 mm, length 750 mm - 2 pcs;
• Boards 250 x 40 mm, length 2000 mm - 4 pcs;
• Boards 100 x 20 mm, length 800 mm - 2 pcs;
• Boards 100 x 20 mm, length 1600 mm - 2 pcs.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a handmade round table:

• Fold four long boards tightly together.
• Draw a circle.
• Cut along the line with a jigsaw.
• Make a rectangular frame and fasten the circle with screws.

• Attach legs to the frame.
• Check stability, and then disassemble.
• Sand the wood with sandpaper. First hard, then soft.
• Cover with stain and varnish.

At first glance, it seems that the most important detail of the table is the table top. However, don't underestimate the legs of the product either. After all, it is they who decorate the table and give it a certain style. Legs must match the basic style of the model and the required parameters.

The paradox is that the more complex and pretentious the legs of the table, the less they will last. The most reliable will be simple wooden, stable and lightweight supports. You don't have to make drawings for them. Stages of making table legs:

• Selection of four bars of equal length (85 cm);
• Installation of bars in the corners of the table top;
• Connection on each side with boards or beams: two equal to the length, and two equal to the width;
• This structure is glued to the table and left to dry.

The table does not always have standard four legs, sometimes craftsmen resort to creating a base from a frame and one or two legs. The glue can be replaced with furniture corners, which are fastened with self-tapping screws, or, for reliability, use both options. You can create an unusual fantasy model by smoothly attaching the countertop to the ornate and whimsical tree roots. It will be an amazing piece that only you will have.

Assembly features

Holes are drilled in each element of the product, then the parts are bolted, which makes the product really strong. You can enhance the effect with fixing with good glue.Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside at an acute angle in relation to the board. If a ready product staggers noticeably, use special straps with clips. This will help make the structure more reliable and stable.

For the legs, wooden blocks are taken, which must be processed with a plane in the shape of a cone. Carved balusters are also excellent for this, which you can either buy or turn yourself on a lathe. Carrying out the structure with his own hands, a person gains the skills of working with wood, so if it becomes necessary to repair the product, this will not cause difficulties. You will already have all the necessary arsenal of tools. In addition, you will need wood and means for the restoration of old wooden products.

Treatment

It is not so difficult to get a good and solid result. The main thing is to comply with all the necessary conditions. After carrying out the main work, the time comes for the final, but no less important stage - processing the product with varnish. In order to correctly carry out this operation, observe the following rules:

• Sand the edges of the countertop by hand;
• Apply a quality varnish to the entire product. In addition, painting some parts of the table with paint will look very decorative;
• Flaws in the work are well masked with a putty that matches the color.

The most popular option for decorative finishing of a wooden table is to cover its surface with a transparent or colored varnish, which will emphasize the natural wood pattern and ensure its protection from external factors.

In order for a hand-made product to serve for many years, remaining the pride of the owner, it is recommended to follow simple rules:

• Avoid direct contact of the product with the open sun and do not leave it outside in the rain;
• Monitor the cleanliness of the surface;
• Process with polish;
• In winter, keep the table indoors to prevent damage to the varnish.

Before assembly, each wooden part must be treated with antipyrine, which will serve as protection against decay, increase moisture resistance and fire resistance.

Exterior decoration and design

The most enjoyable stage of making furniture with your own hands, of course, is the decorative finish, which each craftsman performs in his own way. In order to get the original model, you need to think over the external design of the product. Cuts of medium-sized trunks, decoratively laid out on the table top, will come to your aid. Woodcarving is also a wonderful decoration. Carved legs and table top will add elegance and lightness to the product.

Many people prefer to design a tabletop under glass. This option is suitable if the table will be located indoors. The hand-painted table is unlikely to go unnoticed by guests. Such a product will add a special flavor to any room.

For those who are not good at drawing, the option of transferring the picture through a stencil is suitable. It is, indeed, extremely simple, but there are some nuances: it is recommended to apply the pattern with acrylic paints, since they, when solidified, form a thin film, so they do not spread.

Allow the previous coat to dry before applying a new coat. You can work with a brush or a roller.

The frame around the edges of the worktop always looks dignified. Masking tape will help to create a perfectly straight line. Cover the finished drawing with varnish. The simplest and most proven option is playing with the color of the boards. Using paint, stain and sandpaper, you can create the effect of aged wood. Products "under noble antiquity" always look spectacular and expensive.

The decoupage technique is just a godsend for creating a decor for a new wooden table or restoring a retro furniture. This method consists in attaching a paper picture to the surface of the product using furniture varnish. The choice of pattern is made to the taste of the owner. These can be images of nature and animals, rhythmic patterns, black and white graphics, and even photos from the family archive. Material can be napkins, newspaper clippings and vintage postcards.

The new table can be easily refined with mosaic tiles. To date, a wide selection is presented in hardware stores. It is advisable to use one set of tiles so that there are no inconsistencies in height and unnecessary relief is not created, which can damage the pattern and make the table inconvenient to use. In addition to the mosaic, you need to purchase glue and grout. Briefly, the process of creating a mosaic countertop can be described as follows:

• The surface of the countertop is degreased with alcohol;
• Then it is processed with sandpaper;
• Start at the outer edges;
• Secure the elements;

• Leave to dry for a day;
• Dilute the grout to the desired consistency;
• Thoroughly coat the seams;
• Remove the remaining grout after an hour;
• Let the garment rest for two days, then wipe it with a cloth and vegetable oil for shine.

Budget option mosaic decor will eggshell table decoration... It is necessary to crush the shell into a medium-sized crumb, then lay it out with tweezers on the surface of the tabletop previously greased with PVA glue. Try to keep the gaps between the shells as small as possible. If desired, the shell can be painted.

Countertops look very noble and expensive with gold leaf decoration... Potal is a thin sheet of metal alloys that imitates gold. This material can be purchased at art stores. The required pattern is applied with special glue to the table surface, after 15 minutes, cover it with a sheet of gold leaf, gently smoothing it. Then you need to walk over the surface with a soft brush and admire the result.

The luminous table is an excellent design solution, and it is also quite simple to implement. The finished product is equipped with special lighting - small lamps or LED strip are embedded, providing a variety of lighting options: from simple to colored.

Modern kitchen sets often do not include such an essential item as a dining table, and if it is included in the basic set, it is usually made according to a standard design from cheap pressed wood. Of course, such products are not famous for their original design and durability. Such tables are usually inexpensive, but it is still better to abandon an unsuccessful purchase in favor of a homemade dining table made of wood, which any beginner in home carpentry can handle.

The physical labor associated with woodworking (sawing, planing) usually gives great pleasure to novice craftsmen, and a successful result will not take long.

It is important that the activity associated with the independent design and assembly of wooden models is a very creative process. Rarely does someone try to completely repeat the model they like from the store. Usually, the design of the model is taken as a basis, and the remaining parameters are finalized by the master on his own inspiration. On the veranda or in a country house, utility rooms, it is better to choose transformer designs:

• Folding,
• Hiking;
• Suspended;
• Garden;
• Leveled.

Tables for stationary use are made in constant sizes:

• Coffee;
• Massage;
• Writing
• For laptop;
• For a bath.

The assembly of such products is very strong, the parts are held together tightly, there are no hinge joints.

Cottage or terrace tables usually have a standard rectangular or round shape. However, there are craftsmen who manage to make a rustic-style table in the form of a stump, and a bench in the form of a log, which looks very impressive. This ensemble can be easily complemented by log-cut stools in the same style. As you can see, making a wooden table yourself is not a difficult job.

With strict adherence to the instructions, the correct selection of high-quality materials and suitable tools, you are guaranteed to get a durable and beautiful table, which fits perfectly in terms of parameters and style into your interior.

We continue to equip the summer cottage. Today we'll talk about how and what to fill the dining area or recreation area. It is difficult to imagine a cozy gazebo or shade canopy without a table and comfortable benches or chairs.

Today, garden furniture manufacturers offer a huge variety of tables: large and small, wooden, wrought iron, wicker or plastic.

Of course, you can buy a finished product, but many people prefer to make garden furniture with their own hands.

How and from what material to make a table, how to decorate a tabletop will be discussed in this article.

The design and construction depend on where the product will be installed. The table can be placed in a country house, in a semi-open space (terrace or gazebo), or outdoors in the open air, for example, on a lawn under a tree.

Classification of structures depending on the shape:

• rectangular or square - the most common shape, easy to manufacture;
• round or oval - accommodates a large number of people;
• triangular, wavy, hexagonal, etc. are impractical and difficult to make shapes.

If guests gather at the dacha, an elongated table is convenient. It can be placed against the wall and moved aside for the reception, increasing the number of seats. The rest of the time it is used for economic purposes without cluttering up the area.

The table can be foldable or ordinary. Folding is more difficult to make. For summer cottages, standard non-folding products are usually made with a quadrangular or rounded tabletop on four legs.

In the summer cottages, you can see the furniture itself unusual designlike this low wide table in the photo, with wheels instead of legs, made of massive planks taken from an old wooden pallet.

It can be placed in a country house or on a lawn.

The product can have the most primitive outlines, like this set in the photo, made from partially processed logs.

It is not difficult even for a beginner to make this kit - the very minimum of tools and skills is required.

Paints and varnishes and glue

The wood must be protected from rotting by twice soaking it with a water-polymer emulsion at intervals of 3-5 days. If the parts stick together, you will need BF-2 wood glue or construction PVC.

Bonding technology:

1. Apply glue to both parts of the product.
2. Dry a little.
3. Connect the parts.
4. Keep under load for 3 days.

If you plan to treat the wood with wood stain, varnish or paint, the composition must be applied before assembly.

When choosing a paint and varnish material, proceed from where the product will be located - outdoors or indoors. Outdoor garden furniture must be treated with paint for outdoor use: alkyd, nitrocellulose, oil. Indoor furniture is covered with more environmentally friendly compounds: acrylic paints, varnish.

Formulation compatibility:

• alkyd varnish + oil paint;
• acrylic varnish + acrylic paint.

The order of mixing varnish and paint:

1. Add a small amount of varnish to a container with paint and mix thoroughly.
2. Pour the resulting mixture into the rest of the varnish and stir.

If the task is to preserve and highlight the texture of the wood, and at the same time keep the countertop as environmentally friendly as possible, any water-based varnish will do. It does not smell, is not hazardous to health. You can put food on furniture covered with such a composition without the risk of poisoning.

To make the protective film stronger, the composition is applied in 2-3 layers. The first one is slightly diluted with water and used as a primer. It will be absorbed into the wood. The final layers will create a decorative film.

The hardest varnish is parquet and yacht.

Any varnish can break if the product is used outdoors. Insufficiently elastic varnish film cracks when temperature and humidity change. Therefore, many experts recommend treating country furniture not with varnish, but with oil or oil wax. These compositions are hydrophobic, unlike varnish, they do not form a film that can crack, they are repairable.

The ideal option for covering wooden country furniture is wax and oil. The disadvantage of this finish is the high cost.

But, having spent about 2000 rubles. for a jar of composition, the buyer receives in return:

• a coating that can highlight the natural texture of the tree;
• maximum protection of wood;
• beautiful colour;
• 100% environmentally friendly.

The oil is applied in two layers.

In the photo, wood treated with oil wax:

What tools do you need?

To work, you need the simplest set of tools.

Hand tools kit:

• a hammer;
• wrench;
• building ruler-corner;
• measuring tape and pencil;
• brush;
• saw.

From the power tool you will need:

• drill with a set of drills;
• manual electric milling cutter for cutting at the ends of fastening elements (grooves, ridges).

Worktop - options

The table surface can be manufactured in two ways:

• prefabricated (from several boards);
• monolithic.

The first method is to make large tables with long and wide tabletops, the size of which allows you to receive many guests at once.

There are several ways of joining the countertop boards. In some cases, ordinary nails are indispensable.

Schemes of options for joining boards for tabletops:

To get a beautiful and even countertop, nails need to be driven in correctly:

• when working with hard wood, nails are driven into the passages pre-drilled with a drill with a diameter smaller than that of the fastener;
• when punching boards through, the fasteners should be 30% longer than the thickness of the lumber;
• the end of the nail is bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the fibers of the wood material, otherwise the board will crack;
• so that the mount is as reliable as possible, the fasteners are driven a little obliquely;
• when performing dowels with reinforcement, nails are driven in in a checkerboard pattern.

To make a monolithic joinery board, you will need a jointer - a special long plane for finishing the surface smoothing.

An elementary way to assemble a monolithic surface is to glue several boards and strengthen the fastening using the thorn-groove method. You can immediately buy a grooved board, assemble a tabletop and fasten it additionally from below with a transverse bar screwed on self-tapping screws. This is how they build massive, durable and rough-looking tables that fit perfectly into the country interiors.

A monolithic tabletop must have a protective edge around the entire perimeter. It is made of 4 bars made of the most solid wood, such as birch. It is better not to use oak, as its wood is too heavy.

Installing the obklad:

• along the edges of the countertop, make a one-sided comb with a hand router or circular;
• grooves are made in the bar, corresponding to the thickness and shape of the ridge;
• stick the bars;
• tighten the tabletop with a vice until the adhesive composition is completely solidified;
• to strengthen the fastening, the bar and the tabletop are pulled together with self-tapping screws, screwing them obliquely and drowning the caps in the wood (later the fasteners can be covered with putty on wood).

Gluing the trim on the photo:

In the photo, the installation of underframe screeds:

Making a wooden round table with your own hands:

1. Buy lumber 250 mm wide of any length.
2. Fold the boards end to end and draw a circle of the desired diameter.
3. Cut with a jigsaw along the marked line.
4. Fasten the lumber together in the same way as in the case of a rectangular tabletop.

To get a perfectly flat edge, you will have to make a special device from plywood for a hand router, which works like a compass.

In the photo there is a round table, which a novice master can do with his own hands:

Similarly collect oval countertops.

The easiest way to make a round table is made of thick wood saw cut. Covering the round with varnish, you can easily get an original product, as in the photo:

Table with straight legs

The legs are not attached directly to the tabletop, but to the support frame. This part is assembled from bars connected by metal corners. The frame is glued to the back of the tabletop, at least 2 cm away from the edges.

It is better to additionally secure the part to the countertop from the inside with self-tapping screws.

Legs are cut out from a bar of necessary length.

Fixing the legs is the most difficult and responsible job in the manufacture of tables. The reliability of the entire structure depends on it.

Making legs:

1. Measure accurately and saw off the details of the required length with a saw.
2. Put them together and check the length - it should be the same.
3. Glue the legs at the corners of the support frame - where the parts fit together (use a vise to fix it while the glue dries).
4. Additionally secure the legs with self-tapping screws.

Master class on video:

The X-shaped legs consist of three elements: two crossing slats and an upper horizontal support on which the tabletop will be mounted.

Manufacture:

At all stages of work, glue and metal fasteners are used to fasten the parts.

An example of a drawing of a table with x-shaped legs with dimensions:

Possible options

Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers of wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:

• with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
• angular - help save interior space;
• transformers - multifunctional structures;
• folding and sliding - allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
• "Books" - a common modification of the folding table.

It is noteworthy, but all of the listed options for tables can be made in artisanal conditions, literally from improvised materials.

Regardless of design and shape, a homemade wooden table must satisfy two requirements. Firstly, to correspond to the interior of the room, if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully designed carved countertop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.

Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.

Preparatory stage

Even a simple rectangular table with four legs cannot be made without some preparation. We will understand what a home master will need in the production process.

This is a prerequisite that will allow you to visually represent the future table, determine the size and amount of material. Finished drawings can be searched on the Internet: many masters willingly share the results of their work with Web users, detailing each stage of production.

If we are talking about the unique design of the table, which is planned to be created according to your own project, you can not do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:

• external dimensions (length, width, height);
• fastening the legs to the table top. Round models usually have one support leg located in the center, rectangular structures require 1 support for each corner;
• mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).

It is necessary to carefully consider how all the details of the table will be assembled together, what additional processing of the wood will be required before or after assembly.

Material

It is no secret that wood of different species has different properties and not the whole array is suitable for handicraft processing. Depending on the breed, all wood can be divided into 3 groups.

Soft. This includes almost all conifers (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many deciduous (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). Such material is convenient in processing, but the manufactured table will require additional protective coating, especially if it is supposed to be used outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracking. The exception, perhaps, is the larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for the manufacture of tables.

Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Such a bar, even without impregnation, is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but during processing you cannot do without a power tool.

Extra strong. This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is possible only in the shops of industrial enterprises.

Tool

The simplest rough table of boards can be assembled with your own hands with just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for a more accurate execution, additional tools will be required:

• electric jigsaw;
• grinder;
• screwdriwer set;
• a drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
• roulette;
• a simple pencil;
• square.

In addition, it is recommended to pre-treat the wood with special antiseptics, which will make the finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sides, then you will need special cutters. A great help to the master will be turning or milling machine on wood, but not everyone has such tools.

Homemade tables for a summer residence

The simplest and most practical option for arranging a summer cottage is a table made of wooden pallets. At first glance, unnecessary pallets are ready-made raw materials that practically do not require additional processing, but offer several options for use. For example, 2 pallets can be used to make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelf or for small friendly gatherings.

This design is made elementary. One pallet is fixed to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. The installation height is selected individually. The working part - the tabletop - is attached to the fixed base. Elements are interconnected by two chains that will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 hinges are placed at the junction of the pallets; in addition, you can install a locking mechanism, for example, a hook that will hold such a table in a closed position.

A more complex option is a pallet coffee table, which will look organic on the veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are neatly disassembled into its component parts, sanded, and painted. After that, the boards are hammered into a rectangular tabletop, fixed around the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. Such a construction is made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family vacations.

We use leftover building materials

Almost on any personal plot there are boards left after the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table, which can be put on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining room or utility room.

Here you must be guided by this instruction:

assembling the frame

This will require 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To preserve the geometry, use a square. At the junctions, you can put iron corners, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;

fasten the legs

For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length can be chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support posts are installed on the inside of the frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;

stiffening rib

Approximately in the middle of the legs, an additional crossbar of wood is nailed. A cross member is installed on both sides, making the structure more robust and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install shelves where you can place dishes or other trifles necessary in the household;

countertop

This is where the remaining boards go, which are best placed across the frame. The material is sawn with a hacksaw along the width of the table, and is attached to the frame with finishing nails.

At the final stage, all surfaces are treated with a grinder, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in this case, the tree will last much longer. And if you walk on the boards with a brush for brushing and apply stain on top, you get an antique table.

Table with benches

This option is perfect for the garden, the structure is made of wood stationary, depending on the selected size, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. A garden table and benches are made of boards separately, then the elements are fastened together by a threaded connection: steel studs.

The manufacturing process begins with the shops. For this, the boards are sawn to size, according to the drawn up drawings. To assemble a bench, you will need:

• 3 long boards that go to the seat;
• 4 short segments, cut at the edges at an angle of 45 ° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
• 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
• 1 board is 25-30 cm shorter than the length of the seat - stiffening rib.

Please note that all of the items listed are duplicated, since there are 2 benches for such a table.

Shops are assembled according to this scheme. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short cross members. The legs are installed, which are clamped by the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, are pulled together with pins.

The seat boards are nailed on top of the frame. You do not need to put them close, it is better to leave small gaps.

The ready-made seats are interconnected by four boards 160-180 cm long. Fastening is carried out at the bottom of the legs so that the support posts are clamped by boards on both sides.

After preparing the base, the table is assembled. The table top and sections for the installation of support posts are made according to the principle similar to the benches. The legs themselves are made cruciform, fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches to each other. The result is a comfortable kitchen table, made of wood with your own hands, which can be used for family holidays.

Round tables

Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table with your own hands from wood is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if there is a felling of old trees in the courtyard of a multi-storey building or next to the infield, you can get the original round tabletop without too much effort. For this, a cut of a tree made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable. Such a round piece 5-7 centimeters thick is varnished and can become a key table installed in the hallway.

If you are unlucky with the fallen trees, you can create a round tabletop on your own. This will require 4 boards of the following sizes:

• length - 2000 mm;
• width - 250 mm;
• thickness - 40 mm.

The boards are tightly connected to each other (without fastening), a circle of the required diameter is drawn on the surface. After that, the boards are cut with a jigsaw exactly along the marked line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs of the bars. The shape is chosen depending on the number of legs. If 3 support legs are expected, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed using the corners, after assembly, the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, then it can be installed in an apartment in the kitchen or in the living room.

An oval table is assembled by a similar principle. The only difference is that on the boards connected to each other, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-oval at the ends. The boards are trimmed along the line with a jigsaw. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be 10-20 cm from the edge of the countertop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, for the manufacture of carved supports, certain knowledge is required, so it is better to order such elements from the furniture industry.

Computer desk

If we are talking about a factory product, a computer desk seems to be a rather complex structure. It has a pull-out keyboard shelf, drawers for storing discs and other items that require experience to make. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of details necessary for working at a computer.

Here you can try to implement this option:

• steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle from a professional pipe with 4 support racks. On the one hand, a frame is immediately made for the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements from the other end;
• the table top is made of cut-to-size boards or fiberboard sheets;
• the shelves are made of material similar to the countertop.

All elements are interconnected by a threaded connection or a corner. Of course, this design is inferior to the factory counterparts in external design, but it is much cheaper and quite copes with its task.

Outdoor table for giving made of wood

Undoubtedly, wood is the most flexible and sustainable material. A wooden table can be made round, square, rectangular or irregular, it all depends on the size of the gazebo or the number of seats. As the legs of the tabletop, you can use a regular stump.

The shape and appearance of the table largely depend on the style of your country house and exterior. The log cabin can be supplemented with furniture made from logs and boards. The main tool for processing parts is a grinding machine, since the surfaces of the countertops and benches should be smooth, without nicks.

The tabletop can be made of slats or a narrow board by stringing them on metal rods, or by connecting them using short rails.

A table made of wooden cuts looks interesting, especially if there are paths from the same elements on the site.

There are several ways to make such a table:

• connect the cuts with each other with staples or tongue-and-groove joints, forming a flat surface;
• fix the saw cuts on any base (in this case, the parts must be of the same thickness to form a flat surface). The product must be sanded and varnished. If desired, the gaps between the cuts are filled epoxy resin, after which dries, the surface is sanded again and covered with a protective compound.

A garden table made of wood with benches, made in a single structure, looks great both in the gazebo and in the open area.

It’s easy to make. Use the diagram below to make your own drawing and calculate materials.

When drawing up a drawing, consider some generally accepted standards:

• bench seat height from ground level - 400-500 mm;
• seat width - 300-400 mm;
• worktop height from floor level - 700-750 mm;
• tabletop width - 580-900 mm.

The length of the table and benches is individual. The figure shows an example of making a table with benches located on two long sides of the countertop. Similarly, you can make a structure with benches on four sides.

And here is a variant of a small round table with stationary benches-stools for four seats. It is easy to move it to the right place at the moment: to an open area, under a canopy or into a house.

If you wish, you can purchase or make your own folding garden furniture, which can be easily installed in any part of the garden or in the house.

Such furniture will last longer, as it will not be subject to constant exposure to precipitation. The weight of such products is small, they can be easily and quickly transferred to a permanent storage place in a house or shed, where they will not take up much space.

In order for the product to serve for a long time, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic and coated with varnish, wax or paint. Use wood stain or special pigment impregnation to give the wood the desired color.

We select wood

So, as noted above, wood is the most suitable material for the manufacture of furniture for the bath. It is incapable of heating up as much as metal, with appropriate processing it does not deteriorate from steam, like chipboard, does not emit harmful substances from hot air, like plastic, and also creates a special atmosphere of coziness and comfort.

The main requirement for the wood that the master is going to use in order to make a table with his own hands: it should not be resinous.

Firstly, heat will make the resin stand out, and secondly, such a tree has a rich specific smell, which not everyone likes. Therefore, conifers are not used, especially when it comes to making a steam room table.

Wood must meet the following requirements:

• low heat conductivity;
• high density;
• simplicity in processing;
• lack of flaws (knots, wormholes, rot).

In addition, the craftsmen recommend choosing a material so that it looks nice, has a beautiful texture and color. The latter is selected taking into account that the wood must be necessarily treated with wood stain, varnish or other special impregnations. They will protect the material from water and steam.

Of the types common in our area, tables for use in a bath are most often made from the following breeds:

• poplar;
• linden;
• aspen;
• alder.

Let's talk a little about each of the breeds. Oak is a strong and reliable material, has a high density. But it can play a poor service during assembly: dried wood sometimes cracks when screwing in screws. Therefore, it is best to drill holes for the fasteners during assembly. Linden is softer, has a beautiful structure and looks good in the interior of the bath.

Poplar has beautiful wood, is well processed, as well as aspen. The latter is famous for its resistance to all kinds of bark beetles and mold. And this breed is famous for the absence of knots and other small inclusions characteristic of other breeds.

Alder has a similar structure, it is easily processed. Due to the structure of its wood, alder can be “masked” for more expensive breeds.

Making a table

Having chosen a suitable material and presenting the shape of the future table, the master should draw up a drawing. Standard sizes for a table for six people are as follows:

• height (legs and countertop) - 740 mm;
• length - 1400 mm;
• width - 800 millimeters.

Sizes may vary, the master can make his own calculations based on individual needs.

To work, you need the following tools:

• roulette;
• ruler;
• corner;
• level;
• marker or pencil;
• hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• sanding machine.

In addition, nails or screws will be needed.

In the first stage, boards and beams are made for the table top, legs and table joints. After cutting the necessary size out of wood, they are ground so that during assembly there are no gaps or crevices between the boards.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the structure, the wooden parts are covered protective compounds, insect and mold impregnation. But varnishing tables for the bath is not recommended, especially if they will be in the steam room itself or next to it. A layer of varnish to emphasize the texture of the material can only be applied if the table is to be in a break room free from high temperature and humidity.

When assembling the structure, you can use both self-tapping screws and furniture bolts to fasten it. They look beautiful, giving a homemade table a "signature" look.

In conclusion, we note that the furniture must match the interior and design of the room. Only then will the community of all components be created and the bath will look like a single whole. Therefore, the shape of the table, its size and color are selected by each master individually, taking into account the general style.

Now that our readers know how to make a table in a bathhouse out of wood, this task will not seem overwhelming to them. And after a short time, the owner of the bath will receive guests at a beautiful table, created by his own hands.

Material selection

To begin with, the vast majority of craftsmen will make a wooden bath table. What else to put in a wooden or wood-sheathed sauna? Who would even think of doing hi-tech on the site? So the question of the material can be safely reformulated into the question of the type of wood.

When it comes to furniture for the relaxation room, we have no (!) Restrictions on the choice of wood.

ATTENTION! Humidity in the bath when taking procedures is always increased in any of the rooms.

But high humidity is not a reason to give up any preferences, you just need to take care of protecting the surface of the tree.

This means that you can consider the breed for other qualities. In particular, in hardness. By this criterion, we will single out the following classes for example:

Everyone also knows about the division of species into conifers and deciduous, which indicates primarily the content of resins and, sometimes, the number of knots (conifers often have more).

You can choose the right wood by color, texture, and direction of cut, but this is aesthetics (although the direction of cut affects physical and mechanical properties). There are sound and non-kernel species, that is, either there is or there is no color difference between the inner (core) and outer (sapwood) parts of the wood. The core with the core is usually darker than the outer.

IMPORTANT! It’s good if you have a moisture meter when buying a tree. Standard humidity should be 12-18%.

Remember that a tree that is too wet during drying can become unusable, because warping is almost irreversible.

So, if you decide to make a table in a bathhouse out of wood with your own hands, then you need to decide on the tools (if it is manual, then softer rocks may be preferable, although in the future it will be easier to accidentally damage them), with what the sellers offer in your region, with a budget (the cheapest species are aspen, pine, spruce, linden). In general, any tree is suitable, and then - according to the circumstances.

Design selection

The material and design can be selected in parallel, although one does not depend on the other in any way. The shape of the table can be any, but still the number of basic options is limited:

• square;
• rectangular;
• round;
• oval;
• polyhedron.

This is with regard to the shape of the countertop. In addition, it can be sliding.

The number of legs at the table can vary:

• one;
• four.

As for three legs - an option, of course, rare, but possible. If the number of legs is less than three, then their stability will directly depend on the cross-members on the floor, on which these legs are installed. For a one-legged one, this will be a cross, for a two-legged one, a single perpendicular on each leg.

In addition to the table top and legs, other structural details are possible. These include the transverse beam, which connects the legs, if there are two of them at the table, as well as strips that mask the joints of the legs with the frame, which simultaneously give rigidity to the structure.

Yes, and it would also be worth mentioning folding tables, which can be used not only in the break room, but also in other rooms. Such a table is mounted on the wall, when folded, it takes up very little space, and when unfolded it is no worse than a stationary table.

BTW! Those who love the original can think of hanging tables, like on a ship.

Sizes that are comfortable for humans

It is impossible to get around this point in any way: there is a definite correlation between the size of the table and how many people can comfortably (or without) fit behind it. Therefore, each bathhouse owner should estimate in advance how many people at the same time will most likely gather at the table in the recreation room or on the veranda.

The second important factor in choosing the size (and, possibly, the shape) will be the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. After all, you need not just place the table, but make sure that the person freely sits down and gets up from the table, so that there is room for passage, etc. To do this, you need to add a few more parameters to the dimensions of the table - the width and depth of the seat, the width of the seat of one person at the table, and also the minimum width of the passage.

For our part, we will give the standards of ergonomics, which is the science of how to adapt things to human anatomy.

REMEMBER! To sit comfortably at the table, a person needs 70 cm of space. This is called the depth of the footprint (see figure). Add these 70 cm to the dimensions of the table from all sides - you get a spot that you select for this area. The minimum passage behind the seated person's back, if necessary, should be at least half a meter.

Now the dimensions of the countertops themselves (according to the estimated capacity):

It is convenient for a person at the table if he is provided with at least 60 cm of table space wide. It's minimum.

A square or round double table should be 60 cm in side or in diameter. However, the "spot" of the area with chairs is calculated as 120 x 210 for a square and 120 x 200 for a circle.

A three-seater table is possible only for a round shape, while the dimensions increase: table diameter 80 cm, spots - 220 cm.

Quadruple can be either cruciform or parallel. The side of the square is 85 cm, the side of the spot is 225 cm. The diameter of the circle is 90, the spots are 230 cm. Rectangle: 85 by 125 cm, the spot is 185x225 cm.

Quintuple - circle 100 cm, spot 240; rectangle, measuring 135 by 85 cm, spot - 235 by 225 cm.

Six-seater - three types. Circle: diameter 120, spot 260, rectangle parallel seating - 85x175, spot - 235x225 cm, around the perimeter - 85x145 cm, spot - 285x225 cm.

On the eight-seat, we, perhaps, stop. The circle is 140 cm in diameter, the spot is 2.8 meters. Rectangle: parallel seating - 80 by 250 cm, spot 220x285 cm around the perimeter - 85 by 195 cm, spot 225x285 cm.

Also worth mentioning is the construction called "corner". She looks cozy, fills the space well. The module of the proposed scheme is a seat measuring 55x55 cm. Of these, a corner measuring 220 by 165 cm is folded. The table is also square in shape with a square side of 85 cm. Single seats in front of the table are of the same dimensions as the module.

In principle, the schemes that we presented above can already be a source of inspiration when creating a table.

Below we give several drawings that we found on the vastness of the worldwide computer network. We do not appropriate authorship and do not know their authors; therefore, we cannot provide links to the original sources (see the appeal to copyright holders).

Let's go through the options already mentioned above. Let's start with a one-legged table made in the form of a polyhedron. It rests on the cross, and for greater strength (and, in part, more decorative), the joints of the legs with the cross and the table top are strengthened with jibs. The parts are fastened with glue and self-tapping screws.

A two-legged table also looks very attractive in a break room. Moreover, it is not difficult to manufacture. As can be seen from the drawing, the transverse beam is held in the holes made for it in the legs and is fixed with pins.

Three-legged tables are not used for feasts. Therefore, let's go straight to the "classic" - a table with four legs.

As you can see, the table is very simple, no frills, but correct in design and suitable for manufacturing even for beginners.

Here we will take it as the basis of our instructions.

How to do it: instructions

So, the model is quite simple. For her, you do not even need an expensive tool.

Instruments

• any saw - manual, cross-cutting, circular, even jigsaw;
• (possibly) an electric drill with drills for the diameter of the dowels;
• any grinder - manual, grinder, ordinary electric.

ATTENTION! It is assumed that the material you purchased is of high quality, and you do not have to join the boards, bringing them to uniform dimensions.

Material

• boards 30x100, 20x100 mm;
• bar 60 mm section;
• glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• (possibly) dowels.

Actions

First you need to file the details of the desired size in accordance with the drawing. These will be:

• 7 boards 30x100 mm, 120 cm long;
• 2 boards 20x100, 100 cm long;
• 2 boards 20x100, length 62 cm;
• 2 boards 30x100, 58 cm long;
• 4 bars of 60 mm cross-section, 67 cm long.

In details of 58 cm, grooves are cut out at both ends for the legs of the table - 60x60 mm. Future chamfers from one (only one!) Corner.

The surface of all parts is pre-processed by grinding.

TIP! A second sanding can be done after the table surface has been varnished for the first time.

Now there is such an important point: the fastening of parts is variable. They can be put on self-tapping screws, on screws, on dowels with glue. In addition, the methods can be combined.

Since we do not provide for turning any of the usual joinery joints of parts, we decided that in some cases, to improve the reliability of fastening, dowels can be used. An alternative way would be to mount a metal corner. But first things first.

So, you have processed all the blanks. We begin the assembly.

First of all, countertop boards are laid on a flat surface and fixed. Then, according to the drawing, 58 cm boards are placed on them, which fasten the countertop using self-tapping screws. They are screwed in from below, and along the length they should go into the board of the countertop by about half of its thickness. That is, the length of the screw or self-tapping screw is 2 + 1.5 \u003d 3.5 cm.

The next step is to attach the legs to the grooves in the crossbars you just screwed on. We recommend gluing the joint, and then fixing it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed perpendicularly, fastening the leg with both sides of the groove.

To increase the rigidity and strength of the structure, you also need to make side ribs. Please note that the side ribs on the short sides are where to fix and without the participation of countertops - there is a block along the entire length, and the side ribs on the long side are fixed only 10 cm from each end.

Therefore, we offer two options: either connect them to the table top with dowels, or a metal corner screwed on the inside of the rib.

If dowels are selected, then three on each of the two long sides are sufficient. Holes are drilled under the dowels half the thickness of the board with an electric drill. The compound is placed on glue.

IMPORTANT! Why are dowels better than a corner? The fact is that any joints of wood tend to "breathe", which loosens any metal fasteners over time (so they should be tightened sometimes), and the wooden dowel moves with the tree.

The corner can be placed one in the middle or several along the entire length - this is optional.

On this the table is ready.

Option 1. A round dining table that is easy to make even for a beginner

Materials:

For the table top: a square of birch plywood or laminated chipboard of 1500x1500 mm. For a tie ring: a square with a side of 1280mm of the same material. For the table legs, 4 bars of 120x50x750 mm are needed. and 2 strips with dimensions 1110x120x25 made of tabletop material.

First, we cut out the countertop, the ring of the underframe, the planks. Moreover, the edges must be carefully sanded. The next step is to make the underframe for the round table:

We cut grooves for a cruciform connection in the strips (Fig. 2). We connect the strips groove to the groove. With the help of confirmations, we connect the legs with the strips, as shown in Fig. 3. We attach the finished pairs of legs to the connecting ring, also using confirmations (in Fig. 1, 2). We attach the tabletop to the underframe using self-tapping screws. , 35-40 mm long.

We carefully grind all the surfaces of the table and paint in the desired color - if the table is not made of chipboard. Confirmation heads are closed with caps to match the color of the table.

That's it, the process is completed - you can enjoy well-deserved comfort at the round dining table!

If the size of your kitchen does not allow even a small round table to be placed there, and your dream is to dine at this, do not be discouraged. It is almost as easy to make a folding round table yourself: this will require a little more material and a few additional fasteners.

Folding round table - one basis, several options

A folding round table made on the basis of a book table is the best option for a medium-sized kitchen.

Having folded one semicircular wing, it can be placed along the wall, and if necessary, you can move it to the center of the room and sit behind it with the whole big company.

Knowing the principles of connecting wooden parts, from diagram No. 4 above, you can easily understand the entire structure of a folding round table. The dimensions are all marked - you just need to decipher some of the designations.

1 and 2 - table top, and part 1 is static, and part 2 is movable;

3 - the legs of a round folding table, attached to the bars of crossbars 4,5 and 6 with the help of metal furniture corners (end, flat - 2 for each leg);

Moreover, the crossbar 5 cuts into the crossbar 4 exactly in the middle, and the crossbar 6, together with the leg, serves as a support for the folding part of the round table and moves on the simplest hinge made of an ordinary bolt (the pivot point is marked with a cross).

7 - a removable decorative strip, fastened with wooden dowels to the end part of the folding "wing".

8 - movable leg stopper.

It remains to add that the procedure for making the table remains the same: cutting, fitting parts, assembly, finishing. Your dream came true with your own hands, congratulations!

How to make a round table? This question is asked by picky buyers who, for some reason, cannot find a suitable table in a store for a home or a gazebo. Another option is the restoration of a used product. As a rule, this refers to the old table.

How to restore a wooden table with your own hands? To do this, you need to watch a video or photo. They show a detailed process, and you can also see how the restored table will end up. Psychologists noted that the round shape of the dining table is more popular than the rectangular, due to the fact that it has a conversation and brings family members together. Many families avoid this form due to space saving, since it takes up a lot of space. While the product with sharp corners can easily be placed near the wall or in the corner, a wooden round table requires more space. The size of the round table depends entirely on the space in the dining room. But if the layout allows, then why not establish a large table of the desired shape, which can become a symbol of unity and understanding in the family.

Making a round table with your own hands is not at all difficult if you prepare all the materials in advance. In order to make a classic round table with our own hands, we will use chipboard as a material.

It is best to opt for a laminated surface. And for the legs, prepare wooden blocks. The shape of the sticks can be arbitrary. If you want to use any color for your DIY table painting, it is best to opt for birch plywood. However, please note that the cost of such a product will increase markedly.

A table on one leg needs the following types of tools: a jigsaw powered by electricity, a screwdriver, a device for grinding. We will use screws and confirmations as fasteners. However, for confirmations, you will need to additionally buy a multi-stage drill.

A round table for do-it-yourself dinners needs end-face processing. For this, you can buy an edge band. At the same time, parts made of wood should be tinted, as well as covered with a finishing fluid.

Pay attention to the drawings. You can make them yourself, or you can use ready-made schemes.

Scheme of a wooden round coffee table Drawing of a coffee table (option 2)

If you decide to make a small table, it will measure approximately 75 cm high and 90 cm long. Please note that the calculation includes legs and cover thickness.

Before you finally decide on the size, decide where you will install the table and how much free space will be required for it.

Do not forget to prepare a photo, according to which you will make a sliding table with your own hands or restore the old one. Please note that if the table is foldable, it will have different legs than a simple one. A round transformer table is a great idea for those who have little space. Such a product can be assembled in seconds and stored in this form. Please note that it is not so easy to make a transformer table with your own hands. However, it is difficult to repair.

Making the most elementary round table

How to make a table with your own hands out of wood? To get started, study the photos of approximate models in order to decide exactly which wooden table you will have in the end. A round sliding table is a great idea for a summer residence, it will even fit into a gazebo. However, for a folding table, a more complex tabletop is made. For this reason, we will make a table of the simplest design.

1. We prepare the roof top 2. We make parts for the base 3. We make these parts (3 pcs.) 4. Then we fasten the parts together using self-tapping screws
As a result, you should get 2 blanks for the base. 5. We make the legs 6. Assemble the lower part of the table 7. Then we attach the legs to the base
8. We paint the blanks 9. We paint the top 10. We fix the table top 11. Mark the center on the countertop
12. Drill a hole in the center of the table top 13. Fix the center cover with a screw 14. For greater reliability, fix the table top with screws in several more places. Done

We take the boards, smear them with glue and put them together. In this case, we resort to using metal elements. If you want the restored table to be more sturdy, the pickets are fixed with slats on the back. We arm ourselves with a compass and draw round elements that define the shape of the product. If you do not have a compass, we fasten the blocks with screws under the necessary inclination.

Using duct tape, fix the awl and pencil and draw a small circle. We saw the resulting pattern with a jigsaw. In order to facilitate your task, do not fix the countertop with slats. The surface is carefully sanded, do not miss a centimeter. Sandpaper the edges, and round the edges down.

We cut legs out of the bars. Turn the old table upside down and mark the places for the legs. We will fix them with self-tapping screws. Do not forget about the jumpers made of wood. They are also fixed with screws. At the last stage, we treat the product with impregnation several times. At the same time, let each layer dry well. We paint the finished table. Transparent varnish can be done with two coats, and for colored varnish you need four coats to give saturation.

As you can see, making tables with your own efforts is not difficult. Moreover, this is an exciting process that will give you new skills.

Best remembered for a poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is too little space. To help you design a table that will only be remembered for its good looks, we provide some basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT.Distance from floor to top surface of cover. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE OVER LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer side is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

Knee space. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is moved to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THIGH. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer side is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on a given chair moved up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

LOCKS SPACE. Side space on the table for everyone. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

DEPTH FOR HANDS. Front desk space for everyone seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm is too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the countertop to the wall is sufficient to move the chair, rising from the table. Architects say that you need a minimum of 90 cm, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with side belt

When you hear the word “table,” don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Aren't you thinking about a table like the one drawn here? Yes, this design is the most primordial of the original. In the simplest version, a table - of a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and the side girdle form a solid yet open supporting structure. Structurally, many tables are trestle tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, writing desk. As you scroll through the book further, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. This table is usually found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the attractive dimensions of the legs make them ideal for durable carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the drawer belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered, or carved. Even tsars can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiseled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square side-belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant legs-convertible tables in the style of Queen Anne, massive czar make him a desktop. The cutaway drawers at the third table create significant visual and practical differences by making the table appear lighter and taller, and creating more hip room.

Country style table

This table is called by various names - country-style table, retro-style table, bar table - and by different names. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with chiseled legs and prongs. This quite accurately characterizes it: a table with a side-belt and prongs. Sleeves, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the hands can extend the life of the table for years. The terms “country” and “bar” are definitely related to the 17th – 18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do indeed have massive leaks - albeit badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one median proxy instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had perimeter pro-legs. The design is straightforward. The drawers and prodogs are cut with spikes into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, pins, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. At our “original” table, the legs are round - chiseled - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat rectangular surface for the connections of the leg-base. At the country-style table, you can also change the stitches - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a drawer belt" refers more likely not to style, but to design. This type of table is a base for kitchen, library, writing desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two enhances the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used in its use can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others it requires the largest of all possible. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the tsar. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the tsar with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90 ° to match the width of the leg. Stud connections provide rigidity. The design with two - supra-box and sub-box - bars is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the clerk belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you need to be prepared that access to the inside of the drawer will be limited. If the tsarovy belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the tsarga.

An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table on one central support. Its tabletop is attached to a central post, set on low, diverging legs. Here the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-bearing tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, although he does have plenty of room for knees and hips, his “creeping” legs usually interfere with the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk overturning the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center pillar and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval tabletop and, in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval, two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to tapering racks, and racks with table top brackets are connected with double spikes in the lugs. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, adhere to a square core rail and form a central support expanding upward.

A support table appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-support tables or put an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased tilt resistance. Although the footprint may be noticeably less than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of foot can be reasonably stable due to the weight of the foot.

Place a wide board on the trestle and you have a table. This is the founder of the gantry table, which is perhaps the very first kind of table. Since ancient times, its shape has improved significantly, but it remains easy to make a collapsible table. Its elementary form is a panel or plywood sheet on free-standing trestles. And when the goats cease to be free-standing, then such an assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the countertop, or both. In the table shown here, each half-wine goat consists of a fairly wide rack, cut into the leg at the bottom and into the table top bracket at the top. The wider the trestle, the better the table will resist swinging from side to side. A long massive prodog is embedded in the racks. The table top is screwed to the trestle, and the structure becomes one piece. Although there is plenty of legroom under the tabletop, you shouldn't forget about the slip so that you don't bump your shins while sitting at the table. Also, the ends of the countertops should protrude beyond the goats by 35–45 cm in order to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many gantry tables are designed collapsible. Common ways of attaching collapsible table parts are shown on the next page.

Design options

Goat over the shape of the racks and legs of a goat is the simplest way to change the appearance of this table. Here are some examples. The original goats were similar to saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. Penilvan Germans and other German immigrants brought this form to America, and it is still often seen at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many tables on trestles, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional lid board. Then the usual table for the family can be enlarged for receiving guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawer belt, cut into two parts and re-connected using special runners. Runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top should be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one person sitting.

Design options

The design of the sliding table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and drawer. The shape of the drawers and countertops has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then with a sliding option they work as usual. With an increase in the limits of the extension, it may be necessary to have an additional leg for supporting the middle section. And don’t forget about the importance of small parts - for example, attaching a drawer to the table top

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of the table, which has some advantages over a table with a drawer belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form. With such a table, it is quite possible to make a sliding, folding, and hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding cover with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is split in two and the halves are connected with special sliding rails. Thus, these two cover sheets can be pulled apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of \u200b\u200bthe support should be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a corresponding cover sheet. When sliding the cover, the support is also separated.

Design options

The basic form has a support that divides when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30–40 cm, extension is acceptable, then a sliding table can also be made on a non-separable support. Another option is to make a table on two legs. The table with support for each sliding half can be extended by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with pull-out sections. It is easy to manufacture and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of a table. The only difference from the usual underframe of the legs and legs is the presence of slots in the end legs. The difference lies on top of the side bars and legs. Instead of attaching the countertop to the side girdle, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, fit onto the side leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the side bars. The existing central board, dividing the side sections, is fixed with screws on the side bars. The table cover is placed on top of the center board and side sections, but does not fasten tightly. When folding the table, the side section simply extends from under the cover. The runners have stops that prevent the section from being pulled too far. When extended, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the structure, you do not have to go looking for them in closets and closets when you need to lay out a table before guests arrive. You just slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The system with retractable sections is combined with any type of table supports, provided there is a drawer. Thus, a trestle table or a two-support table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have sliding sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-linear shapes. When folded, the side section is removed under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) in sight. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section underneath a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and drawers.

Two-base table with pull-out
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (tabletop) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover with hinges and when folded lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the "double" tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back on the underframe. The upper edges of the drawer must be covered with felt or felt to facilitate sliding of the lid. Making a sliding mechanism is easy. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that in a period of high humidity, the ridges can jam in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the countertops are quite far from the tabletop, which creates enough space for the sitting under the table. The U-shaped form of the cuticles will provide enough space for the legs of the sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat strange dining table. To limit the overhang of the countertop over the base (to ensure stability), the size of the base part should be close to the size of the folded countertop. Therefore, a folding table top should be used on a type of table that would not look odd if the table top overhangs low. Good options such applications include side tables (as a base), side tables (shown here), and other special purpose tables and tables. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is almost the "generic" name of all tables in which the tabletop sections are connected by loops. This is a common species, and it is present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the time of William and Mary to the modern, you will find a table with a folding board. At this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. In the example shown here, retractable holders are used — you raise the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (roughly like a drawer). Some other support systems see table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs for a book table and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by the extendable or swivel / articulated arms. Make drop boards relatively narrow — say no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections — see options with swivel frame supports or swing legs. A long hinged board, as in the sample shown here, will require more than one bracket. Among other things, this sample received in the XX century an interesting name that applies to a relatively long utilitarian table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "Passion," creates in consciousness a picture of a large table spread out ", filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people sitting at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or a folding table.

Design options

While the base dining table is fairly long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular table top with sharp corners, the drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (table top) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval table top. You can round the corners of the flap sections or make their outer edges curved.

The table-book is the Russian name for the table with rotary frame supports, which are pivotally attached to the assembly of the tsar-leg-pedicle. The support post is connected to the swing post of the upper and lower crossbeams. The entire support can be rotated so that it can be put on a raised folding section (board). The swivel foot was the forerunner of the swivel foot. It has many structural elements that reflect the state of the art of carpentry in the 16th century when it first appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and provides an excellent support for the folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each hinged board), tables with one hinged board and one swivel support were often found, and it happened, and vice versa, there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were usually very narrow and significantly saved space. A large table with two swivel supports for each folding board can be made so that the supports rotate both towards each other and from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the support posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When pivoted away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.

Design options

A significant advantage of a book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A secure support under the drop-board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge countertop

This table can rightfully be called a table with folding boards, however, the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. Swivel leg is a descendant of a frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of a drawer, legs and sleeves, then the swivel foot is attached only to the drawer. The result is a lightweight appearance. Rather, the size, and not the knot of the rotary foot, is characteristic of this table. The diameter of the tabletop is only 107 cm and will be quite comfortable for four. The swivel foot is used in card tables with small folding worktops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used for both actual breakfast and games and teas. Larger tables will likely require additional swivel legs for improved support for the hinged boards. A hinge joint - in fact a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg realizable. A sleeker option than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a swivel table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although the “base” we chose a table in the style of Queen Anne, the swivel foot was used in tables of different styles. The leg profile will usually be an indicator of style. Chippendale-style swivel tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Heppleight tables were made with tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton tables were made with chiseled, often raised, legs.

Unfolded folding boards turn
rectangular table in square

The advantage of a frame swivel table over a swivel leg table is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the hinged boards are raised, additional legs support them. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each hinged board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal side arms, and extend through the openings in the side frames. The foot is attached to the crossbars. Raise the hinged board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the drop-board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can hold very wide drop-boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each of which has excellent stability thanks to an additional leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded and stands against the wall, the additional leg does not strike the eye. Having laid out the table for the game and extending the additional leg, you will get a support at each corner of the countertop. Ideally. The extendable legs are also a great addition to a long drop-down table. If you make two extendable legs under each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans on it too much.

The armchair table owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and draughty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table chair is clearly versatile. With the lid down, this is a table. With the lid up, the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair has become more sophisticated in design and elegant in appearance. The product shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike connections into the socket. The pronounced shoe-shaped end of the leg makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more refined storage than a box with a lid. The countertop is attached with a dovetail inset.

The round table makes any room stand out and looks elegant, highlighting the owner's unusual taste. The correct form with smooth outlines contributes to a relaxed, trusting atmosphere. It is not difficult to assemble a round table with your own hands, the main thing is to have a desire and follow the recommendations of the masters.

Varieties of round tables

The surface of the countertop in a round product is always round. The highlight is
the number of legs and their attachment to each other, as well as in the material from which the components are made. One leg can be replaced with an exquisite cabinet where you can place useful kitchen gizmos or appliances. Some also build in open shelves or drawers.

When making a round table, it is better to choose solid wood. The tree is environmentally friendly, safe to use, equally suitable for classic and modern interior rooms. What else do they create homemade countertops that are nothing
inferior to purchased products?

1. Chipboard, MDF.
2. Plywood sheets.
3. Natural stone or high quality imitation.
4. Thick glass.
5. Plastic.
6. Metal.

What you need to make a wooden round table

Before tackling manual work, the parameters of the table are reflected in the detailed sketch. We propose right now to learn how to make a round table made of wood, equipped with three stable legs. Materials will need timber and boards, wood glue for working with wood, three metal corners (they will be attached to each leg). The fasteners are presented with self-tapping screws. Protection for the table is provided by the waterproof composition that the tree is covered with. It can be replaced with varnish.

A list of tools without which work can drag on:

• pencil or marker;
• ruler or wooden meter, tape measure for taking measurements;
• saw, electric jigsaw;
• screwdriver, screwdriver;
• drill and drills for it;
• clamps;
• brushes for processing the finished product;
• grinding equipment and sandpaper with different sizes of abrasive;
• large compass (construction).

Instructions for creating a round table made of wood

When the materials and tools are collected, you can start creating the product:

1. Apply joiner's glue to the ends of the boards, connect them. Tighten the structure with clamps. To make the tabletop reliable, fix it with slats, turning the surface over to the wrong side.
2. Armed with construction compasses, draw the circumference of the table. If there is no equipment, screw 2 bars using a self-tapping screw at the required angle. Fix an awl on one block with tape, and a pencil on the other. Draw a line. Measure the circumference with a meter. If you are not sure of the same distance, measure and get rid of irregularities by hand.
3. The circle is cut with a jigsaw. When reinforcing the countertop with slats, this step may take longer.
4. To make the surface smooth and pleasant to the touch, without burrs, process with a grinder. Run around the edges with sandpaper. Ideal view - chips should not be present on the countertop and ends.
5. Edges around the edges require rounding.
6. The legs are created from a bar measuring 40 × 40 mm. Get rid of excess length exceeding 70 cm and sand with a typewriter, emery.
7. Fix in areas where it is planned to fix the legs, metal corners. To keep them in the same plane, place the leg on a flat surface with the side with which you fix it to the table top. Attach the corners and use a pencil to mark where they should be. Next, fix the corners to the supports using self-tapping screws.
8. Place the table on supports to provide stability.
9. Connect the legs together with crossbars.
10. Apply 2 coats of water repellent. Each must dry, this will take at least 8 hours.
11. Varnish all the interior and exterior surfaces of your homemade piece of furniture. To get a gloss and a rich shade, you need 3-4 layers of varnish.

How to set up a safe glass table

If an all-wooden table seems like a regular one, you can replace the tabletop with a glass surface. They buy shockproof glass with a thickness of 5 mm and more. It is unique in that it can withstand heavy loads, does not crack or break. Mechanical damage can only result in a strong point impact in the rib. And even if this happens, the glass will not fall apart into fragments, but will turn into rectangular pieces that are not dangerous to humans.

As you can imagine, to cut such glass, you need special equipment. Call a workshop for help. Remind the artisan to sand the glass circle, round the edges, and polish with a felt circle with a polishing paste.

You can fix the finished circle to the chrome legs equipped with heels. They are fixed with glue, which exhibits its properties under the influence of a UV lamp. Another reliable fastener option is to make holes in the glass circle with a drill bit with an abrasive and insert nickels into them. If the drill slides, plasticine is molded onto the glass and water is poured, a smaller block is made and placed inside. When you start drilling, gradually add water to the glass.