How to plant cucumber seedlings in peat pots and tablets? The advantages and disadvantages of such a container, the rules for planting and caring for young plants. Early cucumbers in protected ground, greenhouse Growing cucumber seedlings - video

Horse peat

Horse "red" sphagnum peat, in contrast to soil mixtures, is characterized by high porosity (about 95%) and excellent moisture capacity (60 - 70%). It does not lend itself to microbiological degradation for a relatively long time, which means it can be used for a long time. Due to its long-fiber structure, high-moor peat is able to retain mineral fertilizers introduced into it, while they are not washed out for a long time and remain in a form accessible to plants.

The long-fiber high-peat-based substrate is lightweight. It also has good thermal insulation properties, does not cake and does not shrink when growing plants.

The root system of crops planted in such a substrate easily braids the entire peat ball.

High-moor peat in its natural form has an acidic reaction (pH 2.8 - 3.6) and can be used to acidify the basic soil. It is especially convenient to use it for plants that prefer to grow in an acidic substrate: rhododendrons, hydrangeas, heathers, some types of violets, strawberries, potatoes, sorrel. For these crops, ventilated peat is introduced at a rate of 1: 1 (for clay or sandy soil).

For rhododendrons, hydrangeas and azaleas, you can also add one piece of litter.

On the basis of high-moor peat, you can prepare a substrate and grow seedlings of vegetable and flower crops on it, or use it as the main soil in a greenhouse. To do this, add lime or dolomite flour on average 9-10 kg / m 3 and mineral fertilizers to well-ventilated and mixed peat (for a complex mineral fertilizer, the dose is 1 - 2 kg / m 3). Then measure the pH (acidity). Optimal acidity soil for most vegetable plants and the colors range from 5.5 to 6.5.

The prepared substrate must be kept for 1.5 - 2 weeks, stirring occasionally. Then water it and plant the plants. During the growing season, cucumbers are watered with slurry diluted with water (1:10), and the rest of the plants are fed with compost and mineral fertilizers.

The advantage of this method of growing in a greenhouse is that the soil spent during the season can be changed without special costs.

And as you know, changing the soil helps to get rid of root infections that accumulate during the season.

Low peat

Lowland peat is mostly black. It is characterized high degree decomposition, a high concentration of minerals, especially calcium, is neutral or slightly acidic (pH 4.2 - 4.7). Low-lying peat is rich in humic acids, but it absorbs a large amount of water and gives it away poorly (moisture content over 70%). It is prone to caking, clumping and silting.

For ventilation, low-lying peat is kept in the open air for several days. It is poured into heaps, which allows you to weather compounds harmful to plants.

It is better to use low-lying peat in a mixture with compost and mineral fertilizers as a source of replenishment of organic matter in mineral soil, as well as to facilitate and aerate clay soils and bind and retain moisture in sandy soils.

ON A NOTE

Peat is most often extracted directly from the surface of the earth. This method is called milling. Less commonly, peat is mined from quarries.

Low-lying or high-moor peat is distributed evenly on the surface of the earth and dug up together with the soil to a depth of 10 cm. The application rate is 20 - 30 l / m 2. For new plots of land, 50-60 l / m2 is required.

When peat is introduced, the soil becomes optimal for plants - fine lumpy and granular (soil particles are stuck together in lumps with a diameter of several millimeters). The soil with such a structure contains a lot of air necessary for the respiration of the root system, it absorbs and retains water well, which creates conditions for a more complete and productive use of atmospheric and soil moisture by plants.

Low-lying peat is perfect for mulching lawns in spring. First, the grass is combed out and nitrogen fertilizers are applied, and then peat is scattered over it with a thin layer (3-5 mm is enough).

Peat mulching is also beneficial for sandy and clayey soil and for retaining moisture at the roots when watering. It is usually held in the spring. All weeds are pulled out, watered, and fertilized if necessary. Spread the peat in a layer of 2 - 5 cm, without sprinkling it close to the stems. For large plants and when using a coarse fraction of peat, the thickness of the mulch can be increased. In autumn, peat is embedded in the topsoil.

Peat compost

Peat perfectly removes the smell of compost heaps, consisting of household waste. To do this, it is laid with a layer of 25 - 30 cm, household waste, slurry, etc. are poured from above, which are periodically covered with peat from above.

The width of the stack should be twice its height. For one weight part of peat in the summer they take 2 - 3 parts of waste (slurry), in winter - half as much. The mixture is stirred periodically. The maturation period of the compost depends on the time of laying - in the spring and summer 2 - 4 months, in the fall and winter 6-12 months. Dry hot weather the compostable material should be moistened.

If you are raising poultry, rabbits and larger animals, then you will not find a better decontamination bedding than peat.

Dry peat also perfectly stores vegetables, fruits and flower bulbs.

And if you are the owner of a peaty swampy area - don't be upset! Grow what others cannot: hydrangeas, rhododendrons, heathers, azaleas, varietal cranberries, blueberries, lingonberries with huge fruits and a storehouse of essential amino acids, antioxidants and vitamins.

Well, was it worth it to be afraid of this truly wonderful raw material? If it's really lazy to mess around with the preparation of peat for use or it is not available in your region, you can purchase it in stores and from enterprises specializing in the production of substrates from peat. From all of the above, choose what is right for you!

ON A NOTE

For garden toilets, horse-riding fluffy peat is best, which can absorb 400% of liquid waste and still absorb odor.

Any peat - high-moor, low-lying or transitional - can be used to cover plants for the winter. Fertilized and neutralized peat can be used to cover the rhizomes of raspberries, roses, grapes, and sprinkle with strawberry bushes.

It is excellent to cover rhododendrons, azaleas, hydrangeas with a high hill with high peat in its pure form, and wrap agrotextiles on top from sunburn.

Covering with peat is very convenient because in the spring you just need to lightly scatter the top layer of peat around the plants, freeing the trunks and branches. The same substrate will also serve as additional food for plants in spring.

Peat: both mulch and fertilizer

It is often advised to mulch seedlings with peat. But peat is also a fertilizer, isn't it?

Both lowland and high-moor peat are a mixture of semi-decomposed plant remains. Indeed, it is an organic fertilizer. But don't expect peat to instantly increase soil fertility. Peat has almost no effect on soil saturation with nutrients. However, it greatly improves the structure of the soil - makes it friable, so water and air quickly penetrate to the roots. It is useful to add peat to sandy soilbecause it, unlike sand, perfectly retains moisture and nutrients.

Pay attention to what kind of peat is (see table).

Lowland peat can be used to grow berry and vegetable crops. High peat is only suitable for growing blueberries or cranberries, or it can be added to compost to cover plants with it for the winter. Peat can be brought in both in spring and in autumn - for digging at the rate of 35-40 kg per 1 K8.M.

It is good to add peat to the trunks of trees and shrubs to a height of 5-6 cm. Such mulch is especially useful after prolonged rains, when a dense crust forms on the soil surface. In this case, peat also acts as a baking powder.

NOTE: Before applying, horse peat must be neutralized: per 100 kg of peat, add 2-3 kg of lime or 3-4 kg of ash.

Colors Black Thickening Fabric Pot Plant Pot Container ...

It has always been considered that the land in the greenhouse plays the most important role in obtaining a good harvest. It contains all the necessary minerals that contribute to the normal growth of any plant.

What should be the soil for the greenhouse

What kind of land is needed for a greenhouse? This question, in general, worries only novice gardeners.
The choice of soil type is influenced by many factors:

• The type of cultivated crop.
• What time of year is it grown.
• Whether there will be soil heating in the greenhouse or not.
• What are the climatic conditions in the region, as they directly affect the composition of the soil, and so on.

Let's take a closer look:

• As a rule, the soil for the greenhouse contains: humus, compost, sod soil, sand, peat, limestone.

Note. As soon as it is necessary to prepare the soil for the greenhouse, they rely on the following parameters: 1 m3 of soil falls on 5 m2 of a greenhouse structure with racks, in ground greenhouses - 4 m2, for greenhouses of 4 frames - 4 m2.

• In addition, for some crops that have certain characteristics in their growth, many gardeners harvest bedding. For example, cucumbers or tomatoes (see Growing Tomatoes in Greenhouses: Process Details).

How to prepare soil for a greenhouse

For such actions, there is a special instruction with clearly established norms of components.
For this you will need:

• Sod, humus not higher than 45%.
• Sand - 3%.
• Peat - up to 10%.

Council. In order to make soil for cucumbers or tomatoes, then all the ingredients, except for sand, are in equal quantities.

It is worth considering that if a bedding is required, then sprinkle the tomatoes with peat or the same soil as for cucumbers.
The main requirements that the soil in the greenhouse must meet for normal productivity:

• Ensure normal heat exchange.
• Let the air in.
• Saturated with water during watering (see How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse correctly) and be able to pass it through yourself in the case of growing non-moisture-loving crops.
• Absorb all necessary substances and minerals in case of fertilization.

• Making soil for the greenhouse with your own hands will not be difficult.
• Initially, the conditions for the normal growth of the culture that are planned to be grown in the structure are studied.
• Only on the basis of this is the soil made and then fertilized.

Harvesting of all soil components for the greenhouse and soil preparation

Humus is one of the main components of the soil. What it is?
Humus characteristics:

• Humus is completely rotten manure.
• It is used internally as a natural fuel (biofuel).

Manure preparation:

• There is manure that has already been used in the greenhouse.
• It is taken out of the structure after harvest and laid out in stacks.
• Then it is covered with peat and regularly watered with slurry.

Council. In this process, the main thing is to rearrange the stacks to other places so that the manure does not dry out.

Thus, the manure turns into humus.
Humus composition:

• Phosphoric acid.
• Calcium oxide.
• Nitrogen.
• Potassium oxide.

All of these elements are beneficial for the plant.
Humus properties:

• It saturates the soil with minerals.
• Together with humus, a huge number of nutrient microorganisms enter the soil.
• Soil with humus has good air exchange and water permeability.

Note. It is worth considering that humus cannot be used as soil. Subsequently, the growing season of crops will begin.

Sod is just as important as humus. Why exactly is it put into the ground for growing "capricious" plants?
Sod soil composition and functions:

• It contains a large number of remains of tree roots and grasses.
• Thanks to this, the soil becomes saturated with nutrients.
• At the same time, its moisture absorption increases and the plants are in a favorable environment.

Note. Sod for the greenhouse needs to be harvested in fields and meadows. Near a swampy area, and where sedges and horsetails grow, land is not worth taking. The soil will be highly acidic.

Sod is harvested in almost the same way as humus:

• Initially, the upper layer is removed from the surface of the earth, which is penetrated by a numerous root system.
• Then on the site it is laid in stacks mixed with manure. Be sure to sprinkle with lime.

Council. The height of such a spatula should be up to 1.5 m. All the time before use, the sod is watered with slurry and transferred. Peat will also need to be prepared.

He can be:

• Transient.
• Lowland.

Note. Experienced gardeners harvest the mixture from low-lying sedge peat. Its ash content reaches 12%.

• The moisture content of peat during use should not exceed 65%.
• Dry peat crumb is never used, as it can not be wetted with water of high quality.
• The acidity of the soil should be 6.5.

Council. The soil should be free from insects, pests and pathogens of soil diseases.

The preparation of land for greenhouses is characterized not only by mixing all the components:

• All ingredients are mixed at once in the prescribed proportions.
• The soil is then placed in the greenhouse.

Council. If the soil is placed in the structure in advance, then it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work before planting.

• They consist in watering the soil a few days before planting the plants.
• If the soil has not been moistened for a long time, then it would be better to fertilize it with minerals two weeks before planting.

Note. Fertilization can be done after planting the plants, when it becomes clear that they have started.

The video shows an example of preparing land in a greenhouse.

Neutralization of soil in the greenhouse or its replacement

Disinfection of the soil in the greenhouse is carried out due to two factors:

• The soil has not been used for planting for a long time.
• If it is required to grow other crops on the existing soil.

Note. You can replace the soil, but this process is long and if there is no desire to make it yourself, then the price for it is quite high.

How to disinfect the ground in a greenhouse? This question worries almost everyone. Here you need to follow all the rules and regulations so that clean soil contributes to the normal growth of plants in it.
Let's take a closer look:

• If you do not change the soil in the greenhouse, then every year there will be less and less minerals in it, and it will be saturated with insects that can corrode the root system from the inside.
• At the same time, the yield will be less and less.
• It is better not to bring land to the greenhouse from the garden.
• It contains a large number of harmful microorganisms.

Council. The soil is made independently or brought from a remote area where there is no constant cultivation of crops.

To disinfect the soil you will need:

• You can use copper sulfate. Initially, a solution is prepared.
  To do this, you need a standard bucket of water (10 liters) and 1 tbsp. copper sulfate. This solution is used to water the soil after harvesting in the greenhouse.

Note. It is necessary to handle the solution of copper sulfate extremely carefully, since it is copper, which is toxic and has a harmful effect on the human body.

• There is a special soil treatment with steam. High temperatures kill many harmful particles.
  For this, the soil is poured with boiling water and covered with foil. At the moment, this method of cleaning is considered the most economical and non-toxic.
• Formalin is also widely used. He represents toxic substance... Use it ready-made.
  Grooves are made in the soil and it is poured into them. The grooves are buried, and the soil does not move for 14 days. Then you need to ventilate the structure (at least 2 weeks). After that, the soil is well dug up.
• Sulfuric checker is well used by gardeners. It is installed in the structure and set on fire for an hour. The greenhouse is ventilated within 10-14 days after that.
• Chlorine lime can also rid the greenhouse of pests. It is sprinkled on the soil, as it goes dry.

Council. It is not enough to disinfect the soil in the greenhouse. It is necessary to disinfect the entire structure.

This will require:

• Wash windows and doors well.
• Dilute potassium permanganate and wipe all surfaces with a solution.

• If there is no desire to disinfect the soil, then the land is replaced in the greenhouse.
• For this, the soil is completely pulled out.
• A new soil is being superimposed in its place.

Council. Before placing new soil, the greenhouse structure is deactivated by special means.

Heating the soil in the greenhouse

At the moment, everyone is trying to heat only the structure of a greenhouse or greenhouse, forgetting that heating the ground in a greenhouse can give a greater result.

More details:

• Heating the ground in the greenhouse increases the temperature regime inside the soil.
• Thanks to this, the maturation of the root system occurs more quickly.
• From this, the yield increases.
• A favorable microclimate is created inside the structure.

For this, special electrical plates are used, which are placed under the main soil:

• Included from the control panel or automatically.
• It is possible to adjust the heat supply power.
• They do not light up in the event of a short circuit, as they are underground.
• Will not harm the crops grown.

It is worth considering that it is important not only to make high-quality soil for the greenhouse. Need more for him proper carethat will increase yields.
Recommendations:

• It is necessary to carry out regular watering, which will protect the soil from drying out.
• Mineral fertilizers are also applied, which enrich the soil with nutrients.
• A favorable microclimate should be created inside the greenhouse.

Note. If all the conditions for keeping plants are violated, then mold may appear on the ground in the greenhouse.

This is due to excessive moisture inside the structure.
Not only does the earth turn white:

• In some cases, it turns green.
• And that, and that type of fungal disease is not only dangerous for plants, but also for humans.
• Getting rid of this type of mold is quite difficult.

It is best not to overdo it with irrigation and regularly ventilate the greenhouse so that it constantly has a constant temperature regime.

parnik-teplitsa.ru

How to make a garden for cucumbers?

Cucumbers are heat-loving vegetable crops. A do-it-yourself cucumber garden will be the best gift for these wonderful and so necessary for all vegetables. After the harvest is harvested in the fall, you can immediately start preparing the place for the next season. A warm cucumber bed is prepared in several ways.

Methods for arranging beds

• for this, a trench is dug;
• the width of the trench is 1.5 m, the depth is two shovels, and the length can be any;
• across the trench is laid out with branches;
• empty spaces are filled with sawdust;
• put straw on top of the sawdust. Straw layer - 5-7 cm;
• from above you need to pour manure mixed with earth;
• pour warm water;
• make a fence from branches, slate or boards to maintain the shape of the garden and to protect against pests;
• the southern part of the trench should be inclined;

Such a bed for cucumbers will serve for 5-7 years and please with a rich harvest of cucumbers.

1. A bed on the surface of the earth:

• a bed is dug up (width -1 m, length - 3-5 m);
• weeds are removed;
• a bucket of manure or bird droppings is poured in;
• 1-2 buckets of compost are poured;
• with heavy soil, 1-2 buckets of sand are poured;
• layers are leveled with a rake, but not dug up;
• warm water is poured from above;
• from above the bed is covered with a dark film and fixed with bricks or pipes.

1. A bed above the ground:

• a wooden box is placed on the ground. Can be replaced with a brick or slate box;
• box width - 1 m, length - 2 m;
• sand should be poured at the bottom;
• then a layer of wood or rag waste;
• then a layer of organic waste: skins from vegetables and fruits, egg shells, etc .;
• a layer of leaves or straw;
• each layer is compacted and watered with liquid manure;
• top layer - earth plus compost;

The temperature regime for cucumbers is a very important point. Depends on temperature: convergence of seeds, normal development of seedlings, active fruiting of cucumbers.To avoid sudden temperature changes, you need to make a warm bed

• the predecessors of cucumbers should be tomatoes, garlic, onions, cabbage;
• if the garden bed was built on the spot where the cucumbers grew before, then it is better to remove the top layer of earth and lay a new one;
• the beds are located from east to west, thereby they will warm up better.

The temperature regime for cucumbers is a very important point. Depends on the air temperature:

• convergence of seeds;
• normal development of seedlings;
• active fruiting of cucumbers.

To avoid sudden changes in temperature, you need to make a warm bed with your own hands. It is better to do this in the fall, not in the spring. It will take a lot of effort to create a warm bed, but the result will be worth it.

You can also make a cucumber patch "on herbs".

Tools needed to make a warm cucumber patch:

• shovel, pitchfork;
• scythe (for mowing grass, as it will take a lot);
• peeling potatoes, food waste, moldy bread;
• branches, leaves of trees;
• boiling water;
• plastic wrap or other covering;
• bricks, boards, plastic bottles.

Technology for the implementation of herb cucumber beds

Spread the cooked mixture of potato peels and moldy bread crusts over the bed over the grass. It is important that the mixture is still hot, even boiling. Getting into the grass, it begins fermentation processes, microorganisms appear, which are later useful for the growth of cucumbers.

1. A trench is being dug. It is best that it is 1 m wide, and the length must be calculated so that the entire area is sufficient for planting the required number of cucumbers.
2. Next, you need grass. It can be anything. To do this, you need to go to a clearing, better to the river, and cut more grass. The freshly cut grass lies on the bottom of the trench and is trampled down tightly. It is better to trample the laid grass with your feet. As a result, cucumbers will not fall through in summer, because the garden bed will be dense. Otherwise, the plants will sag and grow in the hole. If the summer is rainy, then water will constantly drain into the pit and the cucumbers will rot.
3. A mixture of peeled potatoes and moldy bread crusts is brewed.
4. The cooked mixture must be scattered over the garden bed over the grass. It is important that the mixture is still hot, even boiling. Getting into the grass, it begins fermentation processes, microorganisms appear, which are later useful for the growth of cucumbers. The mold and starch contained in potato peelings also react and clean the garden for further sowing of cucumbers into it.
5. The garden bed is covered with earth, the same one that was dug from the trench.
6. On top of the sprinkled earth, you need to pour another bucket of boiling water to consolidate the result.
7. You should not immediately plant cucumbers in the garden. You need to wait a couple of days until everything settles inside the ground. The grass will ferment with the earth and organic matter added to it. Such a bed no longer requires chemical fertilizers. It is completely ready for planting in terms of soil composition.
8. And finally, we cover the bed with a polyethylene shelter.

It is better to fix the film around the edges. plastic bottlesfilled with water so that the film does not move or fly under the influence of the wind.

The garden is ready. The only thing else that is done during the growth of cucumbers is watering and harvesting. The rest of the bed is automatically protected from pests, diseases, weeds and is filled with fertilizers. Very comfortably.

The principle of operation of a warm bed

1. The basis for the insulation of the garden is the branches that need to be thrown to the bottom of the trench.
2. During the process of decay, they begin to produce methane.
3. Rotting occurs due to the fact that boiling water is poured onto the branches plus all kinds of waste food products: these are skins, and shells, and much more. So with such a composition, rotting is ensured in any case.
4. Further, methane generates heat. All kinds of microorganisms reproduce well in a warm environment.
5. Microorganisms oxidize methane to form carbon dioxide. The plant feeds on this very substance during growth and fruiting.

The garden will serve cucumbers not only in spring. And also many seasons, mainly with the correct trenching process, somewhere around 10 years. There will be enough nutrients for many seasons, and there will be no need to make a new trench every spring.

In such a warm garden bed in the spring it will be possible to plant not only cucumbers, but also:

• cauliflower;
• zucchini;
• pumpkin;
• salad;
• dill;
• asters;
• radish.

1. The cucumber bed should be in a windless place in the garden.
2. The place for the garden should not contain running water.
3. It is advisable that the place is warm.
4. You need to pay attention to what were the predecessors in the garden in the place where the cucumbers are planned.
5. You can only water cucumbers with warm water, cold water will destroy the plants, since cucumbers are a thermophilic plant.
6. It is better to plant seedlings or seeds at the end of April. Then the yield will be maximum. But in greenhouses and greenhouses, you can grow cucumbers until late autumn.
7. When leaves appear on a plant, when emerging, male shoots appear first, female ones, as a rule, are located on the crown and on lateral shoots. This allows you to control the process of plant reproduction, not allowing it to grow exclusively upward, without giving a crop. If the lateral leaves break out, the yield can be increased if the plant is properly cared for.

There are a lot of varieties of cucumbers now, this also applies to hybrids. It cannot be said which types are the best. Some are suitable for early varieties, some for later varieties. Many are ideal for pickling while others are ideal for fresh consumption. So if the planting of cucumbers is done for the first time, then it is better to try several varieties at once so as not to miscalculate. And in the future, from my own experience, to look, decide and draw conclusions, which are better and which are worse. It all depends on the conditions for growing and caring for plants.

ParnikiTeplicy.ru

Preparing the soil for cucumbers for growing in a greenhouse or greenhouses. Cucumber beds. "Dacha, garden and vegetable garden in the Urals

u-dachniki.ru

Why the earth turns green in a greenhouse: clear answers and useful tips

Reasons for changing soil color

By itself, this nuisance does not pose any threat to the plants that grow in the greenhouse. But the reasons that caused it can cause significant damage to the future harvest and to the seedlings themselves. Therefore, as soon as the green soil was discovered, it is necessary to identify the cause and begin an intensified fight against it. There are four main reasons for the appearance of green soil: waterlogging, insufficient ventilation, excessive soil fertilization and increased soil acidity. Sometimes they can be combined with each other, and then the so-called root causes will not be one, but two or three, or even four.

As soon as such soil is found, it is necessary to immediately begin to act

The green color is acquired by the soil due to the germination of either moss or algae in it. Both the first and the second feel great where there is an excess of moisture. The difference is that moss prefers poorly lit places, while algae prefers bright and (especially!) Natural light. It is noticed that they do not multiply so actively and grow under lamps. In addition, moss grows much more actively in places with acidic soil.

Once green soil is found, the following actions should be taken.

1. Significantly reduce watering or even stop it completely for a while.
2. Determine what exactly makes the earth green: moss or algae. If it is moss, then it is necessary to increase the access of light to the room, as they like dusk. If it is algae, then it is necessary to block their access to light. To do this, sprinkle the earth with a layer of sand on top. In both cases, it is desirable to remove the infected layer.
3. Increase ventilation.
4. If these procedures did not help, go to "heavy artillery".

It is strictly forbidden to use copper sulphate to destroy "greenery" on the soil

Important! In no case, after revealing green soil due to moss or algae, should copper sulfate be used to destroy them. He not only successfully cope with these unwanted guests, but also with beneficial microbes and microorganisms that help the seedlings grow. After processing it, the land will become unsuitable for growing anything and will have to be completely replaced.

Soil mulching

Application of mulching helps to avoid excessive moisture. This method allows you to maintain the most favorable temperature for the plant around the plant; mulch does not allow heat to evaporate from the soil too quickly and abruptly. Since moisture also lingers longer, more frequent and abundant watering becomes irrelevant. That is why covering plants with synthetic or organic materials provides good prevention against the appearance of moss or algae in the ground.

Mulching should be done in late spring or early summer. Earlier carrying out threatens that on the unheated earth the covering material will simply start to rot. Although, if the greenhouse is artificially heated, and you are sure that the soil is at the optimum temperature, then this procedure can be carried out earlier than it should be.

Try not to use synthetic mulch as organic is much healthier

You can not pour mulch close to the trunk of the plant, for better air circulation between them you need to leave free space. Before you start laying the mulch, you need to moisten the soil and walk through it with a hoe or hoe. After processing with a hoe, you need to take a pitchfork and use them to make many holes in the ground. This will help make the soil more airy and plump, it will be easier for air to pass through it, in addition, loosening will prevent the formation of a hard crust on the soil surface, which does not allow air or water to pass through.

Since mulching is carried out in the greenhouse, you should not be afraid that mice or slugs will start in the organic version. It is better to stop your choice on it, because organic mulch does not need to be removed for the winter. On the contrary, leave her. Gradually decaying, it will act as a natural fertilizer for plants.

To determine the acidity level, of course, it is better to buy a special electronic meter or take a soil sample for chemical analysis. If none of these options are available, old and proven methods can be used to show approximate results.

• Determine acidity

To carry out this method of analysis, the following components are required: a plastic half-liter bottle, crushed chalk, a rubber fingertip, a sheet of newspaper. Take a bottle and pour about 5 tbsp. l. plain water. The water should be neither hot nor cold. Next, pour 2 tablespoons into a water bottle. l. soil you want to test. Wrap the crushed chalk in the amount of one teaspoon in a small piece of paper, and then put this bundle in a bottle of water and earth. Squeeze your fingertip and put it on the neck. Wrap a newspaper sheet around the bottle and start shaking it. After five minutes of shaking, look at the fingertip: it is completely filled with air and became even - the soil is acidic, it is not fully straightened - it is slightly acidic, it has not straightened at all - the soil is of normal acidity.

Ash can be successfully replaced with dolomite flour

The second method is much easier and only requires heels of black currant leaves or, in extreme cases, bird cherry. We put these leaves in a glass, pour boiling water and leave to infuse. After the broth has cooled, we lower the soil into it for testing. The broth should change color: the acquisition of a bluish tint indicates a neutral level of acidity, a greenish tint - about slightly acidic soil, red - about high acidity.

• We take measures to reduce it

On very acidic soil, sprinkle with quicklime or chalk. Ash is suitable only for slightly acidic soil, and then in small quantities. Trying to reduce high acidity levels with ash is fraught with consequences. The fact is that in this case a lot of it will be required, which will significantly change the structure of the soil. In addition, it contains not only potassium, but also other elements (magnesium, phosphorus and others), and their excessive amount will lead to "over-fertilization."

Replacing the topsoil

This is a radical decision, which is quite troublesome and can lead to the loss of young crops in the event that they are still too small for a temporary transplant. It is worth starting to get started if no other methods have helped.

It is necessary to cultivate the land with quicklime. It should be extinguished only after it has been lying on the ground for some time.

First, you need to remove the top layer of soil, its thickness should be at least 30 cm. After that, the harvested area is treated with lime. After about a day, the lime is quenched, and everything is thoroughly whitened on top. After whitewashing, several days should pass before the new soil is brought in and decomposed. Let the ground dry well and only after that you can put clean and non-contaminated soil on top.

Crop rotation

As you already know, excessive fertilization can cause the earth to turn green. Therefore, you need to be very careful with feeding. But what to do in the case when those crops are grown that simply need to receive a high amount of nutrients? In this case, crop rotation will help. It aims at the correct and even use of land resources.

So that the greenhouse does not stand idle for a whole year, you can perform crop rotation in the beds. On one bed - cucumbers, on the second - tomatoes, on the third - pepper, the fourth - empty. And then every year you swap them

There are three groups of crops, which are divided according to the level of nutrients they require. The first includes those who need a large amount of fertilizer, the second - those who manage with an average amount, and the third - those who need a minimum amount. For three years, representatives of these groups alternately land on the site, starting with the first and ending with the third. After that, one year break is made with enhanced soil fertilization. By adhering to this rule, you can forget about such a need as periodic soil replacement. This is due to the fact that correct crop rotation helps prevent depletion of mineral and other nutrient reserves in the soil. In addition, fertilization costs are significantly reduced.

Of course, it is quite difficult to deal with green soil, it is much easier to simply prevent this. By adhering to the above rules, you can avoid the appearance of moss or algae in the greenhouse.

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The first step in building a greenhouse will be to build a foundation around the entire perimeter of the future greenhouse. When building the base, you can use both ready-made blocks and fill strip foundation (500 x 200) by hand. Pouring a strip base will take longer and will be quite laborious, but in the future such a foundation will be much more reliable than a precast foundation.

Polycarbonate greenhouse size diagram.

After the base is built, you can start building the frame. The most popular form of greenhouse is the arched frame. For its construction, you should purchase a galvanized profile and assemble T-shaped elements. They will be attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws. In addition to the galvanized frame, you can also build metal or use pipes.

The main disadvantage of this profile is its susceptibility to corrosion. You will need to regularly protect the profile with a primer or paint. To give additional stability and strength to the structure, you should carefully calculate the pitch of the transverse lathing and the distance between the supports. The stiffer the edge of the greenhouse, the more chances the greenhouse will withstand adverse weather conditions (heavy rain or wind). You also need to consider the location of doors and vents.

Diagram of a welded polycarbonate greenhouse.

When building a greenhouse 6 m long, you will need 4 sheets of cellular polycarbonate. They can be easily cut with circular saw or a jigsaw. Cutting the material into pieces the right size, the expansion of the material should be taken into account when high temperatures, the possibility of plasticity of the sheet and the width of the piece while laying it on the stiffeners. The finished strips of polycarbonate must be cleaned of chips at the edges and drilled with an electric drill for mounting. The distance of each hole from the edge of the sheet should be about 4 cm.

Next, using self-tapping screws with thermal washers, you need to strengthen the prepared sheets by inserting them into special grooves of the profiles. Thanks to thermal washers, polycarbonate will be securely and hermetically fastened to the frame. The distance between the fasteners is approximately 40 cm, and the mounting holes should be 2 mm larger than the foot of the thermal washer. Free space is made in order to avoid material deformation during thermal expansions. Having fixed the sheets on the frame, they begin to seal the seams. To do this, a perforated tape is glued on the inside of the sheets, and an aluminum tape on the outside. To protect the arched polycarbonate joints, use perforated tape, securing a special profile over it.

Experts advise making several holes in the profile so that the condensate is discharged outside, and not left inside the greenhouse.

Table of characteristics of polycarbonate.

After building a polycarbonate greenhouse, you should take care of the soil on which the cucumbers will be grown. The soil in the greenhouse should be decontaminated as much as possible. To do this, you need to make a solution of bleach: insist 40 g of lime for several hours in 12 liters of water (in the autumn); or treat the land with boiling water with potassium permanganate (in the spring). In addition, it is necessary to process the greenhouse itself, the foundation and risers in order to exclude any sources of disease. Preventive work should also be carried out during the growth of cucumbers. To do this, you need to ventilate the greenhouse or greenhouse well, organizing full access for the bees inside the polycarbonate structure (for better pollination). There should also be ventilation in the greenhouse, but not through ventilation.

Draft has a negative effect on the cultivation of cucumbers and increases the amount of moisture evaporated from the ground. Replenishment with carbon dioxide has a good effect on the development and appearance of female flowers. This can be achieved by using organic soil fertilizers.

Everyone loves cucumbers, whether fresh or pickled and pickled. And in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to choose the right soil for cucumbers, the composition of which should help for a large harvest. The video in this article shows step-by-step instructions on how to grow a good harvest of cucumbers with your own hands.

The most important condition for obtaining good seedlings is a properly selected soil. If the ground is unsuccessful, then the shoots will hurt and grow very weak, if they do not die. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this choice with all responsibility.

Most summer residents and gardeners prefer to purchase a ready-made soil mixture so that it is presented in a large assortment in any agricultural store and the price for them is acceptable for any consumer.

But in this case, there are also disadvantages, since some manufacturers, instead of potting mixes, sell ordinary peat, which is not suitable for seedlings. If you buy ready-made soil, then it must be a proven brand and manufacturer.

Advice! It is better to do the soil for seedlings yourself, so you will know exactly what is included in its composition.

Ground requirements

A good soil for cucumber seedlings can be from a variety of components, but there is general requirementswhich it must match:

• It is necessary that the soil is balanced and fertile, therefore, it should contain not only organic substances, but also micro- and macroelements.
• The soil must be porous, light and loose, this will allow the root system of young shoots to receive sufficient oxygen.
• The earth must absorb water well enough and hold it, which will allow moisture to evenly moisten the entire volume of soil in the container.
• It is important for the soil that it contains a "live" microfloraas it is very beneficial for young plants.
• The acidity level of the soil should be as close to neutral as possible, about 6.5 - 7.0.

It is also very important that the soil does not contain:

• Make sure no mushroom spores get into your soil, weed seeds, insect larvae or eggs, and disease-causing microorganisms.
• Cucumber soil should not be toxic, therefore, its components must not be taken in hazardous places, for example: highway or city lawns. Better to take them from forest plantations or groves.
• The ground should not contain rapidly and actively decomposing componentsso that microorganisms do not wake up during mixing and the decomposition process does not start.
• The composition of the soil for cucumbers should not include clayas it will degrade the quality of your potting mix and the seedlings will die.

What can be part of the soil

The soil in a greenhouse for cucumbers can consist of the following components:

• Sod land or land from the garden.
• Leafy earth is the half-rotten leaves of trees, except for willow and oak.
• Sunflower husk or grain husks.
• Crushed raw egg shells.
• Wood ash.
• Sphagnum moss.
• Humus.
• Peat (see).

Here are the inorganic ingredients that can be used to create a potting mix:

• Very well washed river sand. It is needed to better loosen the soil.
• Neutral eco-friendly material - perlite. It helps the earth to "breathe" and retains moisture.
• The material is vermiculite, plus it contains calcium, magnesium and potassium.
• A polymer such as a hydrogel will help maintain moisture and reduce watering.
• Slaked lime will help reduce soil acidity.
• Shredded Styrofoam.
• Expanded clay.

What can be the composition of the soil

There are several approximate potting mixes that are suitable for seedlings:

• Sod or leafy soil about one part + peat or humus is also one part + sand or perlite is also one part.
• Three parts of sod and leafy land + also approximately three parts of humus + one part of river sand or vermiculite.
• Sod land about two parts + humus only one part + also one part of sand + for a bucket of this mixture we take about two glasses of wood ash.
• One part of the sod land + one part of approximately humus + for a bucket of such a mixture we take approximately one glass of wood ash.
• One part of the land from the garden + also one part of the purchased land "universal" + also one part of sand.

Below is the composition of the potting mix that is considered best for cucumbers:

• Twenty liters of sod-leaf land.
• About eight grams of ammonium nitrate.
• About ten grams of double superphosphate.
• And about ten grams of sulfuric potassium.
• Add three or four tablespoons of wood ash.

And one more composition:

• We take three to four parts of non-sour peat.
• We add about four parts of humus.
• And four pieces of pure fertile land.
• We dilute the mixture with one part of the sand.
• And also sawdust.
• As a result, we add about three kilograms of manure and half a glass of wood ash per meter of land.

And in conclusion, you can add fertilizers special for cucumber soil (see).

Advice! If you are a beginner, then try different soil compositions in different containers, so you will eventually choose the one that suits you best.

Preparatory work

To grow cucumbers in a greenhouse, we prepare the soil for them very carefully. The earth, like sand, must first be sieved well and any debris, insect larvae and worms must be removed. Then it is worth disinfecting the soil in order to protect the plants from diseases and pests.

This can be done in several ways:

• Freeze. The ground prepared in the fall is covered so that precipitation does not fall and is left outside for the winter. About a month before planting, it is brought in, warmed, mixed with the rest of the components and, after covering, is again taken out into the frost before planting.
• Steam. About a month before planting, the soil mixture is steamed in a water bath, under a closed lid, for about three hours.
• Ignite. The soil is calcined in an oven preheated to forty degrees, for about half an hour.

Purchased soil does not require disinfection, as it is already prepared.

We buy soil

Consider several useful tips from experienced summer residents, what you need to know when buying store-bought soil for cucumber seedlings:

• In stores, the soil is universal and special for various crops. Experienced vegetable growers buy special soil, since active fertilizers must be additionally added to the universal one.
• Be sure to buy a package with a label that indicates the manufacturer and his address, the composition of the soil itself and its batch number, as well as the production and expiration dates. Also, the label contains useful information, for example: the acidity of the soil is indicated.
• Read the composition of the soil well, ideally it should be a couple of types of peat, sand or vermiculite, as well as montmorillonite alumina. If the composition per liter of the mixture contains 300 milligrams of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus, then this mixture is used as a separate component of the main mixture.
• If you are buying soil for the first time, then take one small package of different mixtures per sample. In the future, the soil you like can be purchased in bulk in large quantities. The main thing is that it is porous, loose and retains moisture well.
• At home, the land must be sorted out, since debris and larvae may be present in it. Then it is disinfected for prevention, but this must be done in advance, since the beneficial microflora also dies with diseases.

Types of store soil

Ready-made store primer, it is convenient and does not take much time. But not all of them are used in their pure form: some are ready immediately for planting, others need to be fertilized, and still others are used as an additive to the main mixture.

Let's consider the most popular ones:

• Living land. This soil can be used both immediately for planting and instead of fertilization. It can be of several types: universal, special No. 1 - slightly acidic, special No. 2 - neutral and floral. For cucumbers, special No. 2 is suitable.
• Mother Earth. This soil is almost ready for planting, but it is not loose enough for cucumbers, so semi-rotted sawdust is added to it about twenty percent of the amount of the mixture or Agrovermiculite.
• Humimax. It is ready to plant and has already been sterilized. Such soil consists of peat, river sand, mineral fertilizers, manure compost and Gumimax fertilizer, which contains potassium humate, a biologically active component.
• Microsteam. Such soil is considered neutral and with the addition of sand or sawdust and steamed soil, various vegetable crops can be grown in it. If you add sawdust, you should pour boiling water over it and mix with ash.
• Soil for cucumbers. This is a ready-made soil for planting cucumber seeds. It is based on peat diluted with all the necessary elements for nutrition and rapid growth of cucumber seedlings and a good harvest.
• Biud-soils. These are organic-mineral soils that are prepared using a special technology. They are ready for landing. They are different types: for nightshades, for conifers, for garden flowers, for indoor flowers, for vegetables and for pumpkin crops.
• Universal. This type of soil consists of peat and semi-rotted sawdust, and before planting it should be additionally enriched with mineral fertilizers. You can add twenty percent of the entire mixture, Piksa or vermicompost.
• Biohumus. It is an additive with the main soil mixture, consisting of lying sawdust, aerated peat, bird droppings and manure processed by worms. Most often it is added in an amount of twenty percent of the total mixture.

It makes no sense to list all varieties of soil ready for planting and additives to the soil mixture. Any neighbor who is a summer resident will advise you which soil is better. And also sales consultants will tell you what to take for a sample.

Peat tablets

Peat tablets are a relatively recent invention and their cost is several times more than soil in bags, but gardeners appreciated their convenience. They are convenient to use, it is unnecessary to disinfect them and it is convenient to transplant grown seedlings.

Such tablets are composed of compressed peat or coconut fiber, which have equivalent properties. They are packed in a paper casing or natural mesh, which are impregnated with special agents against diseases and pests.

Advice! You should not buy peat tablets without a shell, since swollen, it will not be a container, but a handful of wet peat.

Tablets are produced different sizes and are purchased depending on the seed size of your plant. They also have different acidity, which is usually indicated on the packaging with pills, so when buying pills, carefully read the label.

Peat cups

Peat cups are more popular peat tabletsas it is even more comfortable. Most often they are used when picking seedlings. They are good because they are created from environmentally friendly natural materials and decompose well in the ground, leaving no traces.

Their advantages include their durability and environmental friendliness. They are porous, allowing air and moisture to penetrate easily. This advantage allows the roots to breathe well and not sour. Transplanting to a permanent place, carried out together with a glass, so the roots remain intact and unharmed.

But peat cups also have disadvantages, this applies to their cheap varieties. Due to the low price, their quality also suffers, they get wet and can become infected with mold. All types of peat cups have a problem of rapid water absorption, so they need to be watered more often.

Output

How many cucumbers sprout in the soil that you choose will depend on the varieties of the cucumbers themselves. And with the right cultivation of tomato and cucumber in greenhouses, you will get a wonderful and delicious harvest of amazing vegetables.

Every gardener should know what soil is required for certain plants. Of course, the soil for the greenhouse can be purchased ready-made if you go to any specialized store. The finished soil contains all the components that are important for plants and crops. But such a purchase is quite expensive and not available to every summer resident, especially in the case when the greenhouse has a large area. Most often, site owners try to prepare soil for the greenhouse with their own hands. We will talk about the types of soil and the rules for its preparation in this article.

Growing vegetables and other plants in a greenhouse, every summer resident should know some features and nuances.

• For greenhouse soil, mixtures such as peat and peat-humus are not applicable. For mature plants, compositions are suitable in which peat can be one of the constituent components;
• The use of ready-made compositions in a greenhouse is an inexpedient solution, due to the low payback of such large expenses for the purchase of land by the future harvest. The correct and profitable option is self-preparation of the soil for the greenhouse;
• When using garden land in a greenhouse, one should not forget about the need to fertilize the soil, which is inherent in rapid depletion;
• It is important to remember that the soil for the greenhouse economy must be periodically renewed, as a rule, 1 time within 2 years. This is due to the fact that repeated use of the soil in the greenhouse over time leads to its loss. useful propertiesfertilizers alone are not enough to restore them.

What are the mixtures in terms of type and composition?

The soil for the greenhouse can be compost, manure, leafy and soddy.

Each type of postage soil differs in composition and purpose. So, for tomatoes, a sod-type soil is required, a large proportion of the composition of which is occupied by field land. Unlike tomatoes, cucumbers will yield more crops on compost soil, which contains peat, humus and sod components.

Before preparing the soil for the greenhouse structure, you should familiarize yourself with the functions of each component of the greenhouse mixture. The following elements can be the components of the soil:

• Peat. Peat is characterized by such properties as high absorbency of moisture and the ability to retain it over a long period of time. Such features of peat allow maintaining the optimal temperature level of the greenhouse soil. Peat also has excellent antiseptic properties. In the soil for a greenhouse, peat can occupy a share of 50 to 90%. Due to the increased oxidizability inherent in the peat element, it can be used in combination with another element, such as lime;
• Compost. As for nutrients, it, like humus, is rich and saturated with them. This type of land can be obtained by a process such as humus of organic matter. Similar to peat, compost has the ability to absorb moisture well and allow air to pass through. Such properties are aimed at structural improvement of the soil in the greenhouse and increasing its fertility;
• Humus. To obtain such a natural product as humus in a greenhouse, manure will be required in a decomposed state;
• Soil from the garden. Its function is to ensure the balance of minerals, as well as stabilize acid indicators;
• River sand. Its functions are: reducing the acidic level of soil and increasing soil looseness. According to the recommendations of experts, river sand should be used in combination with peat. Due to the presence of silicon in the composition, which favorably affects the level of yield, river sand becomes necessary for tomatoes;
• Wood-sawdust component. Thanks to the content a large number nutrients, it nourishes the soil perfectly. The sawdust function is aimed at increasing the looseness of the soil, as well as stabilizing the temperature and indicators such as moisture;
• Straw. The main task of this element is to add carbon dioxide and nitric acid to the soil.

The soil for the greenhouse is divided into light type soil (peat, compost or manure and deciduous soil are among the constituent elements), medium (manure, sod, sand and peat are included) and heavy (sod with the addition of sand). Each gardener, in accordance with his preferences and needs, can change the ratio in the composition of the mixture.

What do you need to prepare the soil in autumn and spring?

Complete replacement of soil every two years is not an affordable procedure for every land owner.

The beginning of the autumn soil preparation will be the end of the harvest period. To carry out this procedure, you must go through the following stages of work:

• Cleansing the soil from weeds and various roots;
• Removal of the top soil layer, the thickness of which must be at least 5 cm;
• Digging soil with a shovel. This must be done to remove the bear larvae;
• Uniform filling of the greenhouse with new soil, which then requires watering (up to 8 liters of water per 1 sq. M. Will be required);
• Implementation of disinfecting procedures for the greenhouse and soil. Alternatively, you can use the sulfur checkers;
• Airing the greenhouse and thoroughly washing its walls using plain water;
• Fertilizing the soil with humus soil, dusting with ash and covering with straw material.

After the snow melts, spring soil preparation begins. First, the straw is removed, then the soil is watered with a special solution, which includes lime and water. To increase the fertility of the soil, certain mixtures will be required, which cover the area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse structure. Such mixtures may include turf, sawdust, peat and compost. Next, you need to start creating beds, which are then fertilized. Before planting plants and crops, it is recommended to process the beds using a liquid mullein.

The most profitable option when preparing soil in a greenhouse is self-prepared compost. If you take care of the soil in a timely manner and carefully, then you will be provided with a high yield.

It is difficult to imagine a vegetable garden without a bed of cucumbers, although this thermophilic vegetable can be very demanding on heat, regularity of watering and sprinkling, as well as on the quality of the soil. In order for the future harvest of cucumbers to please with abundance, it is necessary to prepare a place for cucumbers already in the fall. You should choose the sunniest place, well protected from the wind, remove weeds and dig up the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. You can ensure better heating of the soil in the garden by placing it from east to west. If the soil structure does not correspond to favorable conditions for growing cucumbers, then fertilization will be required.

Favorable soil structure for cucumbers

The owners, whose garden plot located in the floodplain of the river, they can be proud of the rich harvest of this vegetable, without special preparation of the soil. Sandy loam and loamy fertile soil with a close groundwater table - this is what cucumbers need. There is only one drawback - the lack of potassium salt.

Lover of moisture - the cucumber does not tolerate light sandy soils that are unable to hold it. But the heavy earth, where the excess of water remains for a long time, is not for him. The increased acidity of the soil will also have to be fought with the help of liming.

Precursor cultures

When choosing a place for a cucumber garden, you need to pay attention to what crops grew there before. The best predecessors are onions, cabbage, potatoes, and perennial herbs. An area planted with tomatoes or garlic this season is suitable. If there are not so many good places for cucumbers and you have to plant them from year to year on the same area, then the top layer of soil must be removed. In the fall, you can make a high warm bed of grass, tops of the harvest harvested at this time, placing the coarsest waste on the bottom: trunks from sunflower, corn, cut branches and foliage of trees. Potato peels, moldy bread and other food waste are stacked on top.

Many gardeners have adopted the method of planting cucumbers on compost heap, which is made out with boards knocked together from boards. The heat, which is so necessary for cucumbers, is produced due to the rotting of the lower layers of such a bed and vegetables can be sown much earlier by covering them with foil. Since the branches are not able to rotate in one season, that is, it is possible to equip a place for cucumbers in the same place more than once, while replacing the upper fertile layer of the earth.

Fertilization rules for cucumbers

In the top soil layer (30 cm), where the cucumbers will be planted, it is necessary to apply both mineral and organic fertilizers. Their number depends on the existing soil structure. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing should be laid in the fall. Cucumbers require little nitrogen, but if necessary, it is applied in the spring, since, unlike the former, it quickly decomposes. On average, every square meter of land requires:

Organics (humus, peat) - up to 7 kg.;
- crushed limestone - 6 kg.;
- potassium salt - 10-25 gr .;
- superphosphate - 50-60 gr .;
- ammonium sulfate - 17–25;
- ammonium nitrate - no more than 25 gr.